Ever since people took off their animal skins and began to wear woven clothes, the question arose of removing wrinkles and wrinkles from things after washing. Things were pressed down with flat stones, ironed with frying pans with hot coals, and that only housewives did not come up with, until June 6, 1882, the American inventor Henry Seely patented an electric iron.
And only in 1903, the American entrepreneur Earl Richardson brought the invention to life by making the first electric heated iron, which seamstresses really liked.
The principle of operation and electrical circuit of the iron
electrical circuit diagram
If you look at the electrical circuit of the Braun iron, you might think that this is an electric heater or electric kettle circuit. And this is not surprising, the electrical circuits of all these devices are not much different. The differences lie in the design of these household appliances due to their different purposes.
The supply voltage 220 V is supplied through a flexible heat-resistant cord with a molded plug to the XP connector installed in the iron body. The PE terminal is a grounding terminal, does not take part in the work and serves to protect a person from electric shock in the event of a breakdown of the insulation on the case. PE wire in cord usually yellow - green colors.
If the iron is connected to the network without a ground loop, then the PE wire is not used. The terminals L (phase) and N (zero) in the iron are equivalent, which terminal receives zero or the phase does not matter.
From the output L, the current is supplied to the Temperature Controller, and if its contacts are closed, then further to one of the outputs of the heating element. From the output N, the current through the thermal fuse is supplied to the second output of the heating element. Parallel to the terminals of the heating element, a neon lamp is connected through the resistor R, which glows when voltage is applied to the heating element and the iron heats up.
In order for the iron to start heating up, it is necessary to supply voltage to a tubular electric heater (TEN), pressed into the sole of the iron. For quick heating of the sole, high-power heating elements are used, from 1000 to 2200 watts. If such power is constantly supplied, then after a few minutes the sole of the iron will heat up red-hot and it will be impossible to iron things without ruining them. For ironing items made of nylon and anide, an iron temperature of 95-110 ° C is required, and things made of linen 210-230 ° C. Therefore, to set the required temperature when ironing things from different fabrics, there is a temperature control unit.
The temperature control unit is controlled by a round knob located in the central part under the iron handle. Turning the knob clockwise will increase the heating temperature, turning it counterclockwise will lower the soleplate heating temperature.
Rotation from the handle to the thermostat assembly is transmitted through an adapter in the form of a sleeve or a metal angle, put on a threaded rod of the thermostat. The handle on the body of the iron is held by several latches. To remove the handle, it is enough to pry it over the edge with a little effort with a screwdriver blade.
The operation of the Philips iron thermostat and any other manufacturer is ensured by installing a bimetallic plate, which is a strip of two metals sintered together over the entire surface with different coefficients of linear expansion. When the temperature changes, each of the metals expands to a different degree and as a result the plate bends.
In a thermostat, the plate is connected to a bistable switch through a ceramic rod. The principle of its operation is based on the fact that, thanks to a flat curved spring, when passing through the equilibrium point, the contacts instantly open or close. Speed is necessary to reduce the burning of contacts as a result of the formation of a spark when they open. The switching point of the switch can be changed by turning the knob on the body of the iron and thus control the heating temperature of the soleplate. When the thermostat switch is turned on and off, a characteristic soft click is heard.
To increase the safety of iron operation in case the thermostat breaks down, for example, the contacts are welded together, in modern models (there was no thermal fuse in Soviet irons), a FUt thermal fuse is installed, designed for a response temperature of 240 ° C. When this temperature is exceeded, the thermal fuse breaks the circuit and voltage is no longer supplied to the heating element. In this case, in what position the temperature control knob is located does not matter.
There are three types of thermal fuse designs, as in the photo, and they all work on the principle of opening contacts due to bending of the bimetallic plate as a result of heating. In the photo on the left is the thermal fuse of the Philips iron, on the lower right is the Braun. Usually, after the temperature of the sole drops below 240 ° C, the thermal fuse is restored. It turns out that the thermal fuse works like a thermostat, but maintains a temperature suitable for ironing only linen items.
To indicate the supply voltage to the heating element, a neon lamp HL is connected in parallel to its terminals through a current-limiting resistor R. The indicator does not affect the operation of the iron, but it allows you to judge the performance. If the light is on and the iron does not heat up, then the heating element winding is broken or there is poor contact at the point where its terminals are connected to the circuit.
wiring diagram
The entire electric circuit of the iron is mounted on the opposite side of the sole, made of high-strength aluminum alloy. This photo shows the wiring diagram of a Philips electric iron. Wiring diagrams of irons of other manufacturers and models of irons differ slightly from those shown in the photo.
The supply voltage 220 V is supplied from the power cord with the help of captive terminals put on pins 3 and 4. Pin 4 is connected to pin 5 and one of the pins of the heating element. From pin 3, the supply voltage is supplied to the thermal fuse and then to the temperature controller of the iron, and from it already through the bus to the second output of the heating element. A neon light bulb is connected between pins 1 and 5 through a current-limiting resistor. Pin 2 is grounding and is riveted directly to the sole of the iron. All circuit busbars are made of iron, and in this case this is justified, since the heat generated in the busbars is used to heat the iron.
Do-it-yourself electric iron repair
Attention! Care must be taken when repairing an electric iron. Touching exposed parts of a circuit connected to an electrical outlet may result in electric shock. Don't forget to remove the plug from the socket!
To carry out an independent repair of the iron is within the power of any home master, even without experience in repairing household appliances. After all, there are few electrical components in the iron, and you can check them with any indicator or multimeter. It is often more difficult to disassemble an iron than to repair it. Consider the technology of disassembly and repair using the example of two Philips and Braun models.
Irons stop working for one of the following reasons, listed by frequency of occurrence: breakage of the power cord, poor contact of the terminals at the point where the cord is connected to the wiring diagram, oxidation of the contacts in the thermostat, malfunction of the thermal fuse.
Checking the health of the power cord
Since the power cord constantly bends during ironing and the greatest bend occurs at the point where the cord enters the body of the iron, in this place the wires in the cord are usually frayed. This malfunction begins to manifest itself when the iron is still heating up normally, but when ironing, the heating on indicator flashes, without being accompanied by a click of the thermostat switch.
If the insulation of the conductors in the cord is frayed, then a short circuit may occur with an external manifestation in the form of a flash of fire with a loud pop and the circuit breaker in the shield will turn off. In this case, you need to unplug the iron cord from the outlet and do its own repair. A short circuit of the wires in the cord of an iron is not dangerous for a person, but housewives are very impressive.
If the iron stops heating, then first of all it is necessary to check the presence of voltage in the outletby connecting any other electrical appliance to it, such as a table lamp, or connect the iron to another outlet. Before doing this, do not forget to turn the temperature control on the iron clockwise at least to the first circle on the scale. In the extreme left position of the thermostat knob, the iron can be turned off. If the outlet is working, and the iron does not heat up, then, with the cord plug inserted into the network, move it at the entrance to the iron body, simultaneously pressing it in, while observing the power indicator. The same operation must be done in the area where the cord enters the power plug. If the indicator lights up even for a moment, it means that there is definitely a wire break in the power cord and you will have to take the iron to a service workshop or repair it yourself.
Using a multimeter or pointer tester
If you have a multimeter or pointer tester, you can check the power cord without connecting it to the mains, which is more secure by connecting the probes of the device, which is switched on in the resistance measurement mode, to the pins of the mains plug. A working iron should have a resistance of about 30 ohms. Even a slight change in the reading of the device when the cord is moved will indicate the presence of a wire break in it.
If the power cord is frayed at the point of entry into the electrical plug, then you will not need to disassemble the iron, but it will be enough to replace the plug with a new one, cutting it off at the point of damage to the wire.
If the power cord frayed at the point of entry into the iron or the proposed method did not allow to determine the malfunction of the cord, then the iron will have to be disassembled. Disassembly of the iron begins with the removal of the back cover. Difficulties may arise here due to the lack of a suitable bit for the head of self-tapping screws. For example, I don’t have bits for an asterisk type slot with a pin in the center, and I unscrew such screws with a flat screwdriver with a suitable blade width. After removing the cover from the iron, all the contacts necessary to find the faulty part in the iron will become available. It will be possible, without further disassembly of the iron, to check the integrity of the power cord, the serviceability of the heating element and the thermostat.
As you can see in the photo of the Philips iron, three wires come out of the power cord, connected with the help of captive terminals to the terminals of the iron in insulation of different colors. The color of the insulation is the marking of the wires.
Although there is no international standard yet, most European and Asian electrical appliance manufacturers have adopted yellow-green mark the ground wire with the color of the insulation (which is usually denoted in Latin letters PE), brown– phase ( L), light blue- neutral wire ( N). The letter designation, as a rule, is applied on the body of the iron next to the corresponding terminal.
Conductor in isolation yellow-green color is grounding, is for safety, and does not affect the operation of the iron. The current-carrying wires are brown and light blue insulation, so they need to be checked.
With table lamp
There are many ways to check the iron's power cord, and it all depends on what tools the home master has at hand. If there are no tools at hand, then you can use the simplest method.
To do this, you first need to remove the cord terminals from the iron terminals. The plug-in terminals on the contacts of the iron are usually held by latches and in order for them to be easily removed, it is necessary to press the latch with a sharp object, as shown in the photo. At the same time, at the same time, it is necessary to inspect the contacts for their oxidation or burning, and if any are present, clean the contacts from below and above to a shine with fine sandpaper. If the terminals are put on without effort, then it is necessary to tighten them with pliers. Step-by-step instructions for repairing terminal connections in photographs are given in the article "Restoring terminal contact". After that, you need to put the terminals in their places and check the operation of the iron by connecting it to the network. It is quite possible that this was a malfunction and the iron will work.
If the terminal connections are in order, then you need to remove the terminals attached to the brown and blue wires and connect them to the pins of the plug of any electrical appliance using insulating tape, a desk lamp with an incandescent or LED bulb is best suited for this. The switch in the table lamp must be in the on position. After that, plug the iron plug into the mains and crumple the iron wire at the point where it enters the body and at the plug. If the table lamp shines steadily, then the iron wire is working and you will have to look for a malfunction further.
With phase indicator
Checking the tubular electric heater (TEN)
Heating elements in irons rarely fail, and if the heating element is faulty, then the iron has to be thrown away. To check the heating element, it is enough to remove only the back cover from it. Typically, the outputs of the heating element are connected to the extreme outputs and, as a rule, the outputs of the heating on indicator are connected to the same outputs. Therefore, if the indicator is on, but there is no heating, then the reason for this may be a break in the heating element spiral or poor contact at the welding points of the iron leads to the contact rods coming out of the heating element.
There are models of irons, such as the Braun model shown in the photograph, in which the thermostat is included in the gap of one output of the heating element, and the thermal fuse is in the gap of the other. In this case, if the thermal fuse is faulty, then an erroneous conclusion can be drawn about the failure of the heating element. The final conclusion about the state of the heating element can only be made after the complete disassembly of the iron.
Checking the health of the iron thermostat
In order to get to check the thermostat, you need to disassemble the iron completely. The handle of the iron and the plastic part of the body are attached to its metal part with screws and latches. There are a huge number of models of irons, even from one manufacturer, and the methods of fastening in each of them are different, but there are general rules.
One attachment point is usually located near the nose of the iron and the plastic body is fixed with a self-tapping screw, as in this photo of a Philips iron. In this model, the self-tapping screw is located under the steam quantity adjustment knob. To get to the head of the screw, you need to turn the handle counterclockwise until it stops and pull it up. After removing the steam adjusting unit, the self-tapping screw can be unscrewed.
In the model of the Braun iron that I had to repair, the self-tapping screw was hidden under the decorative cap of the water nozzle. To unscrew the screw, the nozzle had to be removed. She just stuck in tight. By the way, this way it can be removed for cleaning in case of clogging.
The second attachment point is usually located in the power cord entry area. The plastic body of the iron can be fastened both with self-tapping screws and with latches. The Philips iron model shown in the photo uses a threaded fastening method. From the point of view of the maintainability of the iron, fastening with self-tapping screws is preferable, since during disassembly the risk of damage to the fasteners of the plastic case is reduced.
And in the model of the Braun iron, the plastic part of the body with the handle is fixed with two latches hooked on the lugs. For disassembly, you need to disengage the latches by spreading them to the sides.
This work must be done carefully so as not to break the latches and eyes. The latches are disengaged and the body part with the handle can now be separated from the iron. It, in turn, is attached to the transition cover with screws or with flags.
In this photo of a Philips iron, the lid is attached to the soleplate with three self-tapping screws. Before unscrewing the screws, you need to remove the power indicator, which is held by the terminals on the terminals of the iron.
And for the Braun iron model, the lid is fixed to the sole with four metal flags threaded through the slots and rotated. To release the cover, you need to turn the flags with pliers so that they become along the slots. In this iron, two flags at the spout were completely rusted out, and I had to bend a special adapter out of a steel strip and cut two threads in it for screw fastening.
After removing the cover, the thermostat assembly will become available for dialing and repair. First of all, you need to inspect the condition of the contacts. The Philips iron also has a thermal fuse in the thermostat assembly. When cold, the contacts must be closed.
If the appearance of the contacts does not raise suspicions, then you need to ring them using a dial tester or a multimeter included in the minimum resistance measurement mode. The photo on the left shows the continuity diagram of the contacts of the thermal fuse, and on the right - the thermostat. The multimeter should show zero. If the multimeter shows 1, and the dial gauge shows infinity, then the contacts are the fault, they are oxidized and require cleaning.
Checking the contacts of the thermostat assembly can also be checked using an indicator to find the phase according to the method of checking the power cord described above, by touching one and the other contacts in sequence. If the indicator shines when touched to one contact, but not to the other, then the contacts are oxidized.
You can do without checking by immediately cleaning the contacts of the thermostat and thermal fuse with sandpaper. Then turn on the iron, it should work.
If there are no devices for checking contacts at hand, then you can turn on the iron and use a screwdriver blade with a well-insulated plastic handle to short-circuit the contacts. If the indicator lights up and the iron starts to heat up, it means that the contacts are burnt. Do not forget about extreme caution.
To clean the contacts, you need to insert a narrow strip of fine sandpaper between the contacts and stretch it a dozen times. Next, turn the strip 180° and strip the second contact of the contact pair. It is useful to clean the contacts of the thermostat to extend the life of the iron if, for example, when repairing the steam supply system, the iron had to be disassembled.
Examples of self-repair of irons
I recently had to repair two defective Braun and Philips irons. Describe the problems that had to be fixed.
Braun electric iron repair
The iron did not heat up, the indicator did not shine at any position of the thermostat adjustment knob. When bending the power cord, there were no signs of iron operation.
After removing the back cover, it was found that the supply voltage was supplied through the terminal block. Access to the terminal blocks was difficult. The marking of the wires corresponded to the generally accepted color marking. Previously, the iron had already been repaired, as evidenced by the broken left latch on the terminal block.
The appearance of the removed terminal block is shown in the photo. It also has a neon indicator lamp for supplying voltage to the heating element.
The input contact busbars for supplying voltage were covered in places with an oxide film of rust. This could not have caused the iron to break, which was confirmed by connecting it after removing traces of rust from the contacts with sandpaper.
After complete disassembly of the iron, the thermal fuse and thermostat contacts were rang with a multimeter. The thermal fuse of the display resistance is zero ohm, and the thermostat contacts are infinity.
Inspection showed that the contacts fit snugly together, and it became obvious that the reason for the failure lay in the oxidation of their surfaces. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper, the contact was restored. The iron began to heat up normally.
Philips electric iron repair
I got my Philips iron in for repair after the owner cleaned the steam system. The thermostat did not work, and the iron was heated to the opening temperature of the thermal fuse.
After completely disassembling the iron, it turned out that the ceramic pusher, which should be between the bimetallic plate and the thermostat switch, was missing. As a result, the bimetallic plate was bent, but its movement was not transmitted to the switch, so the contacts were permanently closed.
There was no old iron from which the pusher could be removed, there was no opportunity to buy a new one, and I had to think about what to make it from. But before making a pusher with your own hands, it was necessary to determine its length. The bimetallic plate and the switch had coaxial holes 2 mm in diameter, in which the standard pusher was previously fixed. To determine the length of the pusher, I took an M2 screw and two nuts. To fix the screw instead of the pusher, I had to raise the thermostat by unscrewing one self-tapping screw.
Attention! The bimetal plate is in contact with the soleplate of the iron and has good electrical contact with it. The switch plate is connected to the electrical network. The screw is metal and is a good conductor of electricity. Therefore, touching the soleplate during the described adjustment must only be carried out with the iron plug removed from the socket!
The screw was inserted into the hole of the bimetallic plate from below, as in the photograph, and fixed with a nut. Due to the possibility of clockwise or counterclockwise rotation of the second nut, it became possible to adjust the height of the pusher imitator in order to adjust the thermostat to maintain the temperature set by the control knob.
The length of the pusher, at which the heating temperature of the iron corresponds to the position of the adjustment knob, can be selected by doing trial ironing. But for this you have to assemble and disassemble the iron every time. It is much easier to use an electronic thermometer. Many multimeters have the function of measuring temperature using an external thermocouple.
To measure the temperature of the sole, you need to put the handle on the thermostat and set it to the position marked one, two or three circles against the pointer on the iron body. Next, fix the thermocouple on the sole of the iron, fix the sole in a vertical position and turn on the iron in the network. When the soleplate temperature stops changing, take readings.
As a result of the experiment, it was determined that a pusher with a length of about 8 mm was needed. Since the iron inside the case can heat up to a temperature of 240 ° C, the pusher had to be made of a heat-resistant material. A resistor caught my eye and I remembered that in it a resistive layer is applied to a ceramic tube. The 0.25 W resistor was just the right size, and its shortened copper leads threaded through the holes will serve well as clamps.
The resistor will fit any value. Before installation in the iron, the resistor was heated to red on the gas column burner and the burnt layer of paint and resistor coating was removed with sandpaper. Everything has been removed down to the pottery. If you use a resistor with a nominal value of more than 1 MΩ, which you must be 100% sure of, then you can not remove the paint and the resistive layer.
After preparation, the resistor was installed instead of the spacer ceramic element, and the ends of the taps were slightly bent to the sides. The iron was assembled and the thermostat was re-tested, which confirmed that the thermostat maintains the temperature within the data given in the table.
What is the maximum temperature that a Philips iron can reach?
When calibrating the thermostat, I decided at the same time to find out what maximum temperature an electric iron can heat up.
To do this, the terminals of the thermostat and thermal fuse were shorted. As you can see in the photo, the device showed 328°C. When the soleplate was heated to this temperature, the iron, for fear that its plastic part might be damaged, had to be turned off.
To fix the iron with your own hands, you need to know how this device is made. Considering the device of the iron, we can say that structurally it is similar to appliances such as a kettle or a heater. The differences are only in the purpose of the devices and the presence of additional nodes.
In the iron, regardless of the country and manufacturer, there are four main components:
- heater;
- plug with cord;
- thermal fuse;
- Temperature regulator.
In order for the iron to start working, it is necessary to apply voltage to the tubular heating element located in the sole of the device. In modern models, such as Roventa, powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2300 watts are used. If you do not interrupt the heating process, then the sole of the device will become so hot that it will only be suitable for frying eggs, and not for ironing linen.
In order to prevent excessive heating, a control device is built into the circuit of the apparatus. The thermal regime depends on the temperature regulator of the iron, which is selected taking into account the type of fabrics: some materials can be ironed at a temperature of 100 C, others need indicators of 200 C. In most models, which include Brown irons, the adjustment wheel is located in the upper part of the body under the handle.
The fuse is an important safety feature. When the appliance reaches extreme temperatures due to a malfunction, the thermal fuse will open the contacts and the iron will turn off.
Before repairing the iron, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the power wire. Most often, it cracks in places of frequent deformations - at the entrance to the case or near the fork. The malfunction may appear gradually when the indicator lamp flashes during ironing. Such a wink means that there is no normal contact and oxidation of the terminals is possible.
Another malfunction manifests itself more violently. If the wires rub against each other for a long time, the insulating layer may be broken and a short circuit may occur. Outwardly, this is manifested by strong cotton, turning off other devices and a specific smell characteristic of burnt wiring.
Women, who are especially impressionable, such situations hurt to the core. They perceive the breakdown as a natural disaster and respond by calling their husband, the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the house management. The most correct option is the first one, because any man whose hands grow from where they should turn on the iron can turn on again. Otherwise, you should still contact the strong half so that he handed over the item for repair.
The Internet is filled with videos on the topic of repairing irons. Many stories are devoted to the flaws of the supply wire. If the cord is broken near the plug, it is not necessary to disassemble the appliance. In the case when suspicion falls on the part that is hidden by the case, disassembly is indispensable. To do, for example, do-it-yourself repair of the Philips iron, you should remove the back cover. Behind it, the power cord diverges into three wires. If the insulation is damaged, it must be repaired. When the terminals are oxidized, you need to disconnect the wires and clean the problem areas.
Checking the electric heater
The heating element in modern designs is a reliable unit and rarely breaks. When this trouble occurs, it is better not to buy a new heater. It's easier to buy a new iron. But first you need to make sure that the problem is in the heating element.
In all models, the heater contacts are soldered to the device contacts and connected to the indicator lamp. If the lamp is on, but the iron does not heat up, then the malfunction is related to the heating element.
The most common cause of heating element failure is a broken coil. Another reason may be insufficient contact of the heating element rods with the device leads at the connection points.
In some models, the thermal fuse is included in one heater circuit and the regulator in another. If the fuse is faulty, then a false “diagnosis” can be made, suspecting the heating element to be faulty. To accurately determine the cause of the failure of the device, it should be completely disassembled.
Problems with the thermostat
Temperature control is carried out with a round wheel. It is located in the Azur iron and in other models on the case under the handle. When the wheel is turned to the right, the heating temperature increases, to the left it decreases until the heating element is completely turned off.
The wheel acts on the thermostat through a special sleeve or steel angle and is attached to the body with latches. In the Scarlet iron and in other models, it is enough to pick up the adjusting disc with a screwdriver so that it comes off.
The principle of operation of the thermostat is based on the various properties of metals. In the manufacture of this assembly, two plates are soldered, made of metals with unequal coefficients of linear expansion. Thanks to these indicators, the plates behave differently. Outwardly, it looks like this: under the influence of temperature, the common plate is bent, causing the circuit to open, and the iron turns on.
To verify that the temperature regulator is malfunctioning, you will have to disassemble the iron completely.
The handle of the device and the plastic parts of the body are attached to the metal parts with latches or self-tapping screws. Even one manufacturer of models has many, and they all have design features. But there are common points in all species.
To disassemble the iron, it is necessary to examine its sharp part, where there is one attachment point. For example, a Philips iron hides a self-tapping screw under the steam control knob. To unscrew the screw, turn the handle all the way to the left and pull it up. After removing the adjusting unit, you can unscrew the self-tapping screw. In the Brown model, the screw is hidden under the nozzle cover. You can remove the nozzle by slightly pulling it towards you. After its removal, free access to the screw opens. Other self-tapping screws or latches are located under the rear cover of the instrument.
After the plastic part of the case has been removed, you should consider the thermostat of the iron. In cold mode, the contacts must be closed. If there is a special device, it is better to ring the node. If there is no device, you can clean the contacts with fine sandpaper, and then plug the iron into the network.
The fuse and other malfunctions are to blame for everything
To fix the iron, you can refer to statistics that say that 50-60% of malfunctions occur due to the fact that the thermal fuse fails. This node is single action and reusable. The fuses of the first group, like kamikaze, work only once. The unit is designed so that when the heating element reaches a temperature of 240 C, the circuit breaks. Further operation of the device without additional intervention becomes impossible.
More modern technologies involve the use of bimetallic parts. Such a thermal fuse is able to turn off the iron in extreme situations, and then turn it on again. If the iron does not work for this reason, the easiest way is to throw out the knot and short the circuit. You can do this in different ways:
- by soldering;
- by crimping a metal rod;
- switching power wires.
In each case, it is necessary to achieve reliable contact.
Another common disease is a problem with the steam system. Sometimes in the Bosch iron, the button that turns on the process is strongly pressed through, and no steam is supplied. Bosch iron repair should begin by unscrewing the screw at the back and removing the back cover. Then you should carefully pull the two buttons that regulate the steam supply up. They are not fixed with screws and are held on the bushings by friction. Next, you need to unscrew the screw, after which the plastic handle should be easily removed. There are two pumps under the cover: one supplies water to the sprinkler, the other delivers water to the soleplate to create steam. The steam pump needs to be removed. At the bottom there is a ball, which, due to scale, sticks to the bottom of the chamber. To fix the problem, you need to push the ball into the chamber and assemble the iron in the reverse order.
Whatever iron you have to repair, you need to remember about safety and follow certain rules: turn on the device in the network only when necessary; do not attempt to troubleshoot with wet hands; during repairs, the iron must be installed on a stable, current-resistant and heat-resistant coating.
Some breakdowns of household appliances, with minimal skills and tools, are quite easy to fix, for this you do not need to contact a service center. It is quite possible to repair the Tefal iron with your own hands, the main thing is to properly disassemble the device and determine the cause of the malfunction.
Types of Tefal irons and possible causes of failure
Ironing equipment from a French manufacturer is divided into steam devices and with a steam generator. The first ones have the classic design of an electric iron, additionally inside there is a water tank with a volume of up to 300 ml. The liquid, poured into a special container, is heated and through the holes in the sole is supplied to the fabric in the form of steam.
The design of devices with a steam generator is somewhat different. The water tank is located at the station in the boiler. The iron and the station are connected by a tube for water supply, a power wire. The water in the boiler turns into steam, which is continuously supplied under pressure through the tubes to the sole of the iron. Jets of steam come out of the holes in the sole, the fabric is smoothed.
The reasons for the failure of the device can be:
- physical - poor contact of the cord, heating element, etc.;
- chemical - scale from hard water on the heating element;
- mechanical - sticking buttons.
To fix any of these problems, you first need to disassemble the Tefal iron.
How to disassemble the device
To work, you will need screwdrivers: flat and asterisk.
Important! Before starting, unplug the appliance from the mains. Some models (FV 9347, 5375, 9240, 4680, 3530 and 3830) have an anti-lime rod installed and must be removed.
Start the analysis by unscrewing the two bolts on the back wall. Use an asterisk screwdriver for this. The third bolt is located under the steam supply button, you need to carefully remove it: pry it off with a flat screwdriver, bend the plastic latches, pull it towards you. You have to be very careful not to break anything. In the same way, remove the button for spraying water.
Advice! Under the buttons, depending on the model, small parts can be located: a ball, a spring, a tube and an elastic band. You need to remember the layout of their placement in order to subsequently install them back.
The bolt located under the buttons of the steam supply system is unscrewed, after which the handle of the device can be dismantled. Carefully remove the soleplate heating temperature controller. Take out power cord block. 2 more screws are hidden under it and 4 contacts are visible.
Go to the analysis of the body. The housing consists of two securely sealed parts, which should not be attempted to disassemble. The sealant is visible to the naked eye, it is a black mass, similar to an elastic band.
Important! The soleplate of Tefal irons is attached to the internal elements by special methods, different from the methods used by other manufacturers. These can be hard-to-find screws (usually located under the plugs) or special latches. Before you begin to separate the sole from the body, you should make sure that all fasteners have been removed.
In order not to completely break the device, before work it is worth watching a video about disassembling and repairing the Tefal iron.
Features of parsing irons with the Easycord system
Some Tefal irons, such as Ultragliss FV4650 or Supergliss FV 3535, are equipped with Easycord system, a distinctive feature of which is the special design of the rear panel of the device. The bolts are on a stand connected to the handle. Having unscrewed them, remove the cover that covers the installation site of the cord, and then proceed to disassemble the steam supply system. The buttons are located on a removable block, which can be dismantled by bending the special latches.
After that, you can remove the handle by gently pulling it up. The next step is to remove the screws. 2 of them are located on the back of the iron, and another one is located on the front, under the removable block. Next, disassemble the iron in the same way as standard models.
Common breakdowns and methods for their elimination
The procedure for repair depends on the type of fault. It is worth considering the most common ones. Some of them you can handle on your own, the solution of particularly complex problems should be entrusted to specialists. To work, you will need a tester, screwdrivers, electrical tape, in some cases, spare parts if replacement of faulty elements is required.
Power cord damage
Most often, the iron does not turn on due to the fact that frayed cord. It has a large load during the operation of the device, and over time it is damaged. To make sure that the cause of the failure is in the cord, you need to check it with a tester. To do this, after removing the back panel of the iron, they pass the tester along the entire length of the wire, identify the gap area.
- Repair the cord: isolate the wires, change the plug, remove the twists.
- Completely replace by selecting an analogue suitable for technical parameters.
Steam system malfunctions
The holes on the soleplate of the appliance may be clogged due to accumulations of limescale, scale or particles of burnt tissue. For cleaning, use a piece of soft cloth soaked in vinegar or a solution of citric acid. They wipe the problem areas until the deposits are completely dissolved. When processing, it is important to prevent contact of a damp cloth with other elements of the iron.
Do not clean the sole with sharp objects: scratches will appear on it, due to which the working surface will not slide well over the fabric. At feed button stuck steam on the Tefal iron, clean the part and its location from dust, inspect the latches, and then put it back. If the sprinkler is clogged, it must be cleaned. To do this, use a needle.
Thermostat failure
The heating temperature of the sole and the possibility of setting the desired ironing mode depend on this element. The most common cause of a thermostat failure is clogged contacts. Small fibers of tissue clog the gaps. After disassembling the device, clean the contacts with sandpaper, a needle or a sharp object. After checking - turn the sleeve on which the switch knob is located. If everything is in order, you will hear a click.
Fuse failure
The fuse can be single or reusable. The first stop working when they burn out, and it is impossible to fix them, you should completely replace the part.
The fuse will need to ring with a tester. If the indicator on the tool is off, the device must be disassembled and the wire contacts checked. Then the gap is closed or the element is completely replaced if it cannot be repaired.
Failure of the heating element
The reason why the iron turns on, but the soleplate does not heat up is failure of the heating element. In most modern models of irons, the heating element is connected to the water tank, and it will not work to dismantle it to replace it with a new one. You will either have to completely replace the sole, or buy a new device. The first option is impractical - it is difficult to find a suitable work surface, and its acquisition will be expensive.
In order for the iron to work properly for a long time and not have to be repaired, you should follow simple recommendations.
- If the device has a self-cleaning function, it must be used at least once a month.
- It is important to monitor the condition of the soleplate of the iron: remove plaque and soot from it in a timely manner. To do this, use a solution of vinegar or citric acid, special pencils for cleaning. In no case should solutions be poured into the tank - they can ruin small parts, gaskets, resulting in depressurization of the tank.
- Costs use only soft water: filtered, boiled, thawed, distilled or special, designed for irons. This will help prevent scale formation.
- The cord should not be kinked. After finishing ironing and cooling the device, the wire is carefully wound around the body.
If there are serious breakdowns, which it is not possible to fix on your own, you should contact Tefal service centers located in Moscow and other large cities of Russia. More information can be found on the official website of the manufacturer. There you can also order the necessary spare parts for repairs.
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Surprise, but the problem of how to disassemble the iron is the most difficult to repair. The manufacturer is trying to impose an official service. In the USSR, disassembling an iron was not an easy task. What to say about the current diversity. Soviet models were quite rude from an aesthetic point of view, the master is free not to worry about their appearance, modern models are beautiful, they reveal such a fragile case. Plastic parts, as if on purpose, are made from a grade of polymer that exhibits minimal flexibility and breaks easily.
We believe that steps are being taken, we will repeat in order to give work to service centers. Ordinary inhabitants are used to counting every penny, we want to do it with our own hands. So, the topic of today: how to disassemble the iron.
We disassemble the iron
Let's start, probably, with the promised Soviet iron. Immediately make a reservation, there is little in common with steam. We list the details that make up the iron with a quality mark in the form of a star inscribed in a pentagon:
- Back cover.
- Temperature regulator.
- Power cable.
- Sole.
- The handle is often integral with the body.
Tool set
Inside the power block, the heating element of the sole, the thermostat and the thermal fuse. In the model UL-84, which we see in the photo, in the back of the sole there is a cover for quick access to the heating element. You see the lid with the iron upside down. Admire the power contacts of the heater. In the background is a gentleman's kit for opening household appliances. Let's explain. In the green case, a lot of tips, along with the typical TORX, you can see the incredible shape of the head. The set was bought in Moscow for about 800 - 1000 rubles. Adapter included. Today, bits are much cheaper, driven by dealer competition.
The heads do not fit the reversible screwdriver, which we will see here. Through the adapter, the tyutka enters the tyutka on the internal magnet. In the gray case you can see 6 slots for standard screwdriver heads. The cost of pleasure with a pen is hundreds of rubles, not more than 400. Why do we talk about the instrument for a long time? Every iron disassembly video begins with complaints about non-standard screw heads. In the meantime, it's easy for every man to get a gentleman's set that allows him to spin his spaceship. Moreover, readers probably purchased a drive with interchangeable heads. Buy a set of non-standard nozzles!
Having removed the back cover (photo number 2), we see: there are clearly no power bolts. It is seen:
- clamping bar with two screws;
- contacts going to the relay, one turn is broken by a bimetallic plate, adjustable by the mode knob.
It is clear that the input must be sought from the side of the temperature controller. Gently pry the handle with two screwdrivers from the sides, it will fly out with a terrible crack. The regulator was held by two steel spring clips, clinging to the groove. Nothing criminal. Look at the photo, it looks scary, it has been working for almost half a century. Will Philips, Vitek, Tefal, Braun, Bosch give such a guarantee? Draw your own conclusions. You see two power bolts, unscrew immediately!
To remove the sole, let's disassemble the contact block shown in the second photo. In the last image we see an adjustable bimetallic plate. To protect against incorrect fitting of the regulator during assembly, an asymmetry in the shape of the hole is noted. Disassembly completed. The power of the device is 1 kW, the winding resistance should be 50 ohms. It will be carried out at any position of the thermostat, as long as the contacts are closed.
Of course, if necessary, we will adjust the bimetallic plate. Pliers plus skillful hands are used. By bending the metal, we change the temperature of the relay operation. Disconnect the heating element by disassembling the contacts in photo number 2. Check the short circuit resistance of the relay. Great - clean the contacts, grind.
Disassemble imported steam iron
We avoid saying that it is easy to disassemble the Tefal iron, we will give typical tricks.
The device of a modern iron
Modern three-tier irons, typical composition:
- The handle, which is integral with the tank.
- Housing that protects the tank from hot soles.
- A sole with a boiler, the holes releasing steam.
The assemblies are structurally uniform. It is often not possible to disassemble parts without breakage. The handle is glued to the tank, the body is a single piece of plastic, the method of welding the boiler and the sole is generally difficult to identify.
Under the body is a compartment of electronic elements. Thermostat represented by a bimetallic plate. A thermal fuse is visible nearby, usually molded through a heat-resistant fabric onto the tank wall, or right next to the heating element. Accordingly, the element setting may be 140 degrees or higher, for example. It is determined by the overheating protection implementation scheme, iron model. You can recognize the thermal fuse by the mounting bracket, by the eloquent inscriptions on the case, which give the permissible current (optionally), the response temperature.
Replace the thermal fuse with the same one. To disassemble the Braun Freestyle corded iron, you will need to pull the cord with electronic filling back. According to the tips above, first remove the rear screws, then the bow. Finally, we remove the sprinkler located in the area of \u200b\u200bthe steam boost buttons. Cord, electronic part are held by plastic cloves. Handle, tank, sole almost one piece. However, in the bow we notice a couple of power screws. Act according to the circumstances.
The design, we believe, has become the basis of wireless irons. Power contacts are made detachable. You can remove-put the sole with a tank, a handle in place when you want. No disassembly. Although any wireless irons work in cycles: n seconds tyrannizes the stand, m seconds irons clothes, there are no timers inside (signal LEDs are on). Works controlled by a bimetallic plate. A green light is included in the sole circuit, a second high position contact is created for the red one. Follow the traffic lights. Green means you can. Red? It's time to put the iron to gain strength.
Models with a built-in battery have been created, of course, they weigh more. Not everyone can call quality a virtue. But battery life lasts longer. For ordinary expensive cordless irons, the cycle is something like 24 - 5. The ironing time is five times longer than the rest. Disassembling a cordless iron is no more difficult than a wired one.
We add that wireless irons are not uncommon: Tefal, Philips. Recently, Panasonic appeared on the market. The real news is, Tefal is not popular in America. Panasonic boasts a handy carrying case. They forgot to inspect what is sold by Russia, overseas, the Japanese most ergonomic iron among wireless models. Released in India, it's hard to buy even on e-bay.
By the way, hold off thinking too badly about the homeland of the Buddha. A good part of the world's population lives, earning a lot of money with software.
We hope we have taught readers how to disassemble the iron. They gave typical techniques that are used everywhere. It is impossible to create a universal instruction, how to sort through numerous models. Individual copies of one manufacturer can be strikingly different from others presented on the market. We say goodbye, we are waiting for comments, see photos, evaluate, compare, learn how to disassemble irons with your own hands.
An iron is one of the most necessary electrical appliances in the house, but, like any household appliance, malfunctions occur in it. For example, you plugged the appliance into the mains, waited a while and realized that the iron was still cold. You can deal with this problem yourself, without resorting to the help of service center specialists. Below we will look at the most common reasons why your favorite iron does not heat up, and give tips on how to fix this breakdown.
In some situations, you can understand what the problem of lack of heating is without even disassembling the unit. If you make sure that the iron is plugged in, there are no power outages in the house, and the indicator light on the iron body is on, it means that heating element damaged iron (in other words, "ten"). Unfortunately, in this case, the prognosis is unfavorable.
The fact is that the heating element is connected directly to the soleplate of the iron. If the bindings are one-piece, then most likely you will have to contact the specialists and replace the entire soleplate, or buy a new iron. If the heating element is attached with tips, then theoretically it can be disconnected from the sole and then cleaned with sandpaper to clean the damaged contacts.
If the problem is in the heating element, it is very difficult to solve it on your own, and it will be more profitable to purchase a new electrical appliance, because replacing the part in this case will be expensive.
However, this is far from the only version according to which the iron does not heat up. Let's try to diagnose other malfunctions:
- Damaged power cord. This is one of the most common breakdowns. You need to check the inclusion of the iron in the network and consider the wire: is there a break or damage somewhere. The integrity of the power cord and plug can be diagnosed using a multimeter. This device measures the resistance in an electrical circuit. You need to ring the cord and determine its performance. Verify that there is power in the outlet by setting the multimeter to the mode indicated by the letter V. This is a sign of alternating voltage. After the Latin letter V, as a rule, the symbol "~" follows.
- Is there voltage at the outlet, does the iron turn on, but does not heat up? Check is the wire kinked whether the contacts with the heating element have loosened. You can also shorten the cord by a few cm yourself. Perhaps after this procedure the damaged area will be removed and the problem will be solved. If the device still refuses to turn on, replace the cord with a new one.
- The thermostat has failed. The temperature control is a knob that we turn to set the heating temperature to the minimum or maximum, depending on the type of fabric to be ironed. It regulates the temperature to which the sole is heated. This part has a simple design, it is represented by a bimetallic plate, the tension of which is regulated by a special spring. When the temperature of the regulator changes, the contacts alternately close and open, at this moment a high voltage current flows through them. If the contacts become dirty, dust or lint gets on them, then this will certainly affect the performance of the equipment. In this case, it would be more correct to carefully clean the contacts with sandpaper (do not forget to unplug the iron from the power supply!).
- The problem is with the thermal fuse. What should I do if everything is in order with the cord, the power indicator light is on, and the thermostat is working? Checking the thermal fuse. In any model of modern irons there is a built-in fuse, which is responsible for the safety of the device during operation. With an excessive increase in temperature inside the structure, this element is destroyed (disconnects the electrical circuit) so that a fire does not occur. Accordingly, after the fuse has “flew”, the iron stops heating. You can check the operation of the fuse using a dial. If it turns out that the cause of the malfunction lies precisely in it, replace it with a new one. However, it all depends on the model of the device. Thermal fuses are replaceable and cast, fusible and non-fusible.
How to disassemble the iron yourself
If you have never disassembled electrical appliances in your life, then this can be a big puzzle. In current models, not a single fastener, screw or connector is visible from the outside. How to be in this case and how to disassemble the structure? Indeed, in Soviet, grandmother's irons, everything was arranged much simpler and more understandable.
Take a close look at the body of your electric assistant. Today, the design of electrical appliances is arranged in such a way that all elements, parts, are connected to each other. hidden latches. Find a flathead screwdriver and carefully pry the latches. Next, you will find the very screws that hold the main parts of the iron together.
Remember that the iron in the disassembled state is strictly forbidden to be plugged into the outlet.
Some popular manufacturers of household appliances, such as Tefal, Philips, Brown often use screws with branded, not quite standard heads. Here you will have to suffer a lot and pick up the right screwdriver, or even contact the manufacturer's service center.
In order to prevent malfunction of the iron, it is best to take care of careful care in advance.
- Prepare a clean ironing board and check the soleplate for dust, wool, lint, and other debris. When heated, this can also affect the operation of the iron, and ruin the item you are ironing.
- Woolen things, silk fabrics, organza are best ironed through a special fabric. In the case of wool, part of the villi may remain on the soleplate of the iron, and delicate fabrics are easily damaged, stains and scorch marks may remain on them.
- Adjust the temperature according to the fabric material.
- Products made of faux fur, suede, leather are not recommended to be ironed with steam. Steam exposure negatively affects the fibers (they can melt, remain on the base of the iron).
- It is advisable to iron matte fabrics from the inside out so that unnecessary shine does not appear on them after ironing.
- Keep the flat iron out of the reach of children and pets. So, the dog can easily ruffle the wire, as a result of which the iron will stop functioning.
Conclusion
So, we found out the main reasons why your iron does not turn on or does not heat up, and we have given ways to fix this problem. No matter what advanced technologies manufacturers invent (touch control, automatic steam supply, water supply, lack of wires), the causes of the malfunction are universal for almost all irons. This may be a bad contact of the power cord, a malfunction of the heating element, a broken fuse, or a banal dusting of the contacts. If you were unable to diagnose yourself, seek qualified help, but do not forget that repairs are an expensive process, and in some serious cases it will be more cost-effective to purchase a new electrical appliance.
