Work in the garden, flower garden and garden in the month of April - from A to Z. Work in the garden in the country in April Garden work in April in the middle lane

Work in April

The pruning season ends and the sowing season begins. Now, more than ever, planting and transplanting plants, top dressing and preventive measures in the garden are relevant.

April 1, from April 20 to 30 - the waning moon. Time for sowing and planting root crops, bulbous and tuber crops. Dig up the soil, equip the beds, apply organic fertilizers. You can dive seedlings. Forming, regulating and sanitary pruning is successful. Moderate watering of leaf crops is preferable, plentiful - onion and root crops.

from April 2 to April 4 - new moon, exact time - April 3, 17:32. On the new moon, it is better not to carry out any work, and on the days before and after - to destroy weeds and pests, to carry out sanitary pruning.

from 5 to 16 April - the growing moon. The period for sowing green, leafy, fruit, gourds and legumes and annual flowers. Grafting of plants is recommended, it is possible to carry out rejuvenating and restoring pruning of trees and shrubs, planting seedlings. Abundant watering of leafy crops is preferred, moderate watering of bulbous and root crops, mineral top dressing.

from April 17 to April 19 - full moon, exact time - April 18, 05:44. It is better to limit yourself to thinning seedlings and weeding weeds, as well as loosening and mulching the soil.

1 SITE PREPARATION

Remove the bark, leaves and carrion peeled from the trees: insect egg-laying will be destroyed along with them. When the earth dries out a little, cultivate and harrow the beds and tree trunks. Dig up untreated areas.

2 GARDEN FEEDING

In a young garden and berry fields, 3-4 kg of humus, 20-30 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium chloride or 0.5 l of a can of wood ash should be added per 1 m2 of area. In a fruit-bearing garden, fertilizer rates are increased by 30%.

3 DIVING OF SEEDLINGS

At the beginning of the month, water the March seedlings abundantly and dive, transplanting one seedling into cups with a spatula. Next, water the seedlings in the morning as the soil dries up.

4 PLANTING

Do not be late with planting currants, raspberries and gooseberries, they start growing early. Do not plant plants with developed buds. This also applies to fruit trees.

5 SEEDLING SOWING

The earlier you want to get tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, the earlier you need to sow. Even if the seedlings are ready, when frosts are still possible, you can plant them under a film or agrofibre.

6 WORK IN THE FLOWER BOARD

In overcast, dry weather, when the threat of frost has passed, remove the shelters from the plants. Plant corm crops for germination. Sow cold-resistant letniki in the ground, and heat-loving - for seedlings.

7 CUTTING THE PEACH

In an adult peach, many growth and fruiting buds are laid. It is optimal to leave up to 300 fruits on the plant, then the peaches will be large. Shoots on fruit-bearing trees are thinned and shortened to improve lighting inside the crown. Pruning is completed by mid-April.

8 PLANTING POTATOES

This plant is semi-cold-resistant, so plant it under a film or agrofibre, spud seedlings more often, and when cold snaps approach, water it at night. It is better to plant potatoes when the temperature is above + 6-8 ° С. Planting depth - 10-20 cm, for early production from germinated tubers - 10-12 cm.

9 GOOSEBERRY CARE

1. After the gooseberry seedling is planted according to all the rules, it is cut into 4 buds.
2. Then each bush must be watered with a bucket of water. Use a garden watering can for this so that the water is absorbed gradually.
3. New seedlings are mulched with sawdust, shavings, straw, humus, compost, agrofibre or simply loose soil with a layer of 6-8 cm, which is not trampled down. The mulch will retain moisture in the soil and provide a source of nutrients, as well as a barrier to raspberry weevil escaping from the soil.
4. If it is clear that the plant does not have enough moisture, 2-3 additional waterings can be carried out until mid-May. If the bushes develop well, they can not be watered. The soil around the gooseberry should be regularly loosened and cleared of weeds.

10 GRAPE TIRE

Open the grape bushes at the beginning of the month, as soon as the soil dries out and if, according to the forecast for the week, colds of up to -10 ° C are not expected. This applies to earth shelters on chernozems and loams. If organic matter was used, the bushes are opened until the eyes swell. Bundles of vines, without untying, attach vertically or obliquely to the trellis.

In the second half of the month, when the likelihood of frost decreases and be sure to swell the kidneys, carry out a dry garter. Tie the sleeves of the grapes obliquely, and all the fruit arrows - horizontally to the first wire of the trellis, while the ends need to be slightly bent down.

11 PROTECTING THE GARDEN FROM FROST

Already at the beginning of the month, prepare heaps of brushwood, straw manure, peat, leaves and sawdust. They are set on fire from the leeward side when the temperature drops to +2 °C. A smoke screen helps keep the warmth in the garden from the soil during the night. The coldest temperatures during frost occur before sunrise. Smoke should last 5-6 hours. For every 1-2 trees, one pile is arranged.

12 PEST CONTROL

Spray trees in the "green cone" phase with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. If the flower and vegetative buds are about to open, reduce the concentration of the solution to 1%. 2 liters are spent on one young tree, up to 10 liters on a fruitful tree, up to 1.5 liters per bush for currants, up to 2 liters per 10 bushes for raspberries. When the buds begin to bloom, pears and apple trees are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid to combat fungal diseases. Against aphids and pathogenic fungi, they and the soil around them are treated with a solution of nitrafen (300 g per 10 l of water).

13 VENTILATION OF THE GREENHOUSE

If the air temperature inside the greenhouse rises above +25 ° C, the room must be ventilated. Keep in mind that it gets very cold in the greenhouse at night, and on a hot sunny day, the thermometer can exceed +40 ° C.

14 PREVENTION OF IRIS DISEASES

Bearded irises are one of the most painful ornamental plants, so you need to pay attention to the prevention of their diseases. At the end of the month, spray plantings with foundationazole, copper chloride (30-40 g per 10 liters of water) or cuproxate. In the future, during the growing season, the flowers are sprayed 2-3 times with an interval of 10-15 days. At the time of flowering, processing is stopped.

15 CARE OF VEGETABLE SEEDLINGS

In the early stages of germination, feed all crops with organic fertilizers that do not inhibit the microflora. In addition, after germination, the temperature should be reduced to + 16-18 ° C. This will prevent the seedlings from stretching and allow them to take root well. If the weather is warm, the seedlings can even be taken outside for a day. If you are doing this on the loggia of the balcony, open it in sunny time, first for a short period, and then gradually increasing the time. After the first decade of the month, you can not enter at all

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1. April is a responsible month. First of all, you need to drain excess water from the site. To do this, dig grooves along the slope of the site so that water flows into the ditch. If there is no slope on the site, then simply dig a shallow groove, gradually deepening it so that the water flows in the direction you need. Especially dangerous is the stagnation of water on raspberries, strawberries and clematis.

2. At the beginning of the month, it is necessary to remove the spruce branches from young plantings of strawberries, roses, irises, clematis, lilies, especially from oriental hybrids, since under a warm shelter they will quickly grow and their flower bud may freeze out during return frosts. However, do not rush to remove the boxes of roses and clematis.

3. Feed with nitrogen fertilizer (3 tablespoons of urea per 10 liters of water) lovage, rhubarb, sorrel, raspberries. Instead of urea, you can use an infusion of manure or bird droppings, diluted with water 1:10 or 1:20, respectively. If at the same time you cover these landings with lutrasil or put arcs over them and stretch the film, then by May 1 you will already have greenery.

4. If the compost pile is located in the sun, then early greens (chervil, watercress, cilantro, parsley, lettuce, spinach, dill) and early carrots, as well as radishes, can be sown on it. To do this, spill last year's pile of compost with hot water, pour a layer of soil about 7-8 cm high on top of the compost and sow the seeds. I usually do it this way: I mix 1 teaspoon of seeds with half a glass of sand and sow in the furrows as I salt food.

You can use special seeders, in which the opening is adjusted according to the size of the seeds. In this case, the seedlings will not thicken.

From above, crops can be covered with a film until shoots appear. Heat and moisture are retained under the film, and crops appear faster. After the emergence of shoots, the film must be removed, otherwise the shoots may burn under the film. If you cover the crops with lutrasil or spunbond, then the covering material can not be removed until the plants grow up, but before germination, the crops should be watered directly over the material if the weather is dry or windy so that the hatched seeds do not dry out in the upper drying layer of soil.

5. At the beginning of the month, pre-grow weeds on vegetable beds, covering the beds with old film and fixing it so that the wind does not blow it away. Weeds will quickly sprout under the film, so as soon as they appear, remove the film and loosen the beds, leaving them open for a day. Then cover again with foil and repeat the operation. Now there are no weeds in the top layer of soil in the garden. It is important not to dig up the soil, but only before sowing, loosen it with a Fokin flat cutter, then make furrows for sowing with the sharp end of the flat cutter. Sowing in open ground of all the crops listed above can be done at the time of flowering of the coltsfoot, that is, in late April-early May.

6. Leaf parsley for greens and bush dill can be sown in early April. In mid-April, you can sow marigolds, marigolds, zinnia for seedlings.

7. At home, water the seedlings of tomatoes and peppers moderately so as not to overmoisten the soil. Remember that seedlings need good lighting. As a top dressing, I use a weak Uniflora-growth solution (1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water), with which I water the seedlings instead of water. Do not forget to spray the leaves of tomatoes and eggplants with a very weak solution of a copper preparation (the easiest way is to use chlorine copper oxide - HOM, dissolving one fifth of a teaspoon of the powder in 5 liters of water). The solution can stand, you will use it two more times approximately every two weeks. This is a good preventive measure against late blight. But the often recommended spraying with a solution of manganese can be omitted, since it does not save from late blight, and other diseases rarely appear on tomato seedlings. Pepper can be sprayed with a solution of potassium permanganate, especially if it is annoyed by aphids.

Peppers are difficult to protect from aphids if there are indoor plants in the same room where the seedlings grow. It helps very well against aphids by spraying any plants and at any time with a solution of the Healthy Garden preparation (4-5 grains per 1 liter of water).

8. It's time to take the potatoes out of storage, lower them into hot (45 degrees) water.

When the water has cooled, add potassium permanganate to a bright pink color and hold the tubers in the solution for 15-20 minutes. Then wash the tubers, dry them and lay them out for vernalization in a bright and cool place.

At the end of April, put the potatoes in cardboard boxes, layering each layer with newspapers, put the boxes in a warm place so that the potatoes give good strong sprouts. You will plant grown tubers, thereby accelerating the ripening of the crop by two weeks.

9. If you have not done the pruning, then at the very beginning of the month it can still be done. Start with blackcurrant bushes, gooseberries and honeysuckle.

Cut off the black ends of the branches, rejuvenate the bushes by cutting out the old branches. At the gooseberry, all young shoots growing in the middle of the bush should be cut out, only those that grow along the edges of the bush should be left.

In red and white currants, the tops of the branches are not cut off, but only the old branches and those branches that branch into the crown are removed. In honeysuckle, pruning thickens the crown or broken branches.

10. Do not rush to cut cherries and plums, wait until freezing after wintering becomes clearly visible, and even better, leave their pruning for the fall. The same applies to apple trees. After a harsh winter, the ends of the branches could freeze, but some of the branches will be able to recover from the buds on the bark, so do not rush to cut the branches, leave the pruning for the end of summer. Frozen wood has a light brown color on the cut. Start pruning from the end of the branch and, gradually moving from the end to the skeletal branches, you will get to the place where the cut is light - from this place the tree tissue is alive and there is no need to cut further.

11. To get early strawberries, cover at least one bed with a film on arcs or double thin lutrasil directly over the bushes.

12. Toward the end of the month, those plants in which the scales of the buds have moved apart and a green cone of leaves have appeared should be sprayed, since the first pests lay their eggs at this very moment in the green cone of the leaf. It is better to use an infusion or decoction of strong-smelling herbs (such as tansy, garlic, or citrus peels) to disorientate pests.

13. April is a good time for vaccinations. In early April, you can cut off the cuttings for vaccination, wrap them in a newspaper, put them in a plastic bag and dig them into the snow on the north side of the house, but so that they are not flooded with melt water. At the end of the month, these cuttings can be used for grafting.

14. At the end of the month, sow seeds of annuals and perennials that are not afraid of frost (poppy, escholcia, cosmea, cornflowers, iberis, catchment, forget-me-nots, marigolds) directly into the ground in place. Other flowers can also be sown directly into the ground, even such as tobacco or petunia, but their crops should be covered with a film stretched over small arcs. Arcs are easy to make yourself from willow twigs, from which you should immediately remove the bark. Willow grows along ditches.

15. At the end of the month, you can remove the shelter from all ornamental plants, except for clematis. It is better to cover their growing shoots. .

At the cottage - April And that means the season has begun! And there is no time to be lazy, we pick up a tool - and get to work. We're in business April at the cottage great multitude.

April is the most cheerful spring month: “April dresses the whole earth in flowers, calls all people to joy, crowns all the trees with foliage.”

Spring deftly cracks down on snow and ice. The beds that have rested during the winter are awakening to life again, and we feel how they breathe the smells of ripening soil ...

You do not have to be an experienced gardener to understand: the most laborious season has come.

There is, perhaps, no work, except for harvesting, that would not be required to be carried out at this time.

And moisture should be retained, and the soil should be loosened, and fertilizers should be applied, and plants should be planted or transplanted, cut off and protected from pests and diseases ... And yet, the main, essentially continuous work now is work with seedlings.

The seedling method of growing plants is more reliable and the only one for many places.

The summer season is gaining momentum, and how to deal with all this, how to manage everything, what to grab on to in the first place? After all, it seems that all things are urgent.

This is where the plan that we made in the winter comes in handy. If it is not there, then I want to advise you, my friends, to take a “country notebook” and think carefully about the work plan for each day so as not to forget to do anything.

What do we need to do in the garden?

So I wrote these lines and thought about what to write next, because our beautiful Spring, something is not in a hurry to us at all. Huge drifts of snow are in no hurry to melt, and the frosts do not end there.

Apparently, where she is now, she is much better and she completely forgot that we are waiting for her, we can’t wait.

And in many regions of our country, including ours, the March work on the summer cottage has not been done, to say nothing of the April work.

But since our country is huge, I hope that there are still those places where spring came on time and this article will be useful to them.

And we will have to do all the work that we could do slowly for two months at an accelerated pace, rolling up our sleeves.

So, we finish everything that we did not do in March and move on:

• We remove the winter binding of trees, remove dry branches, leaves, last year's mulch, plant debris, spruce branches. It is best to burn all collected garbage;
• We cut off the broken, dry, dead branches, and in those places where you find the egg-laying of pests on the branches, it is necessary to cut the branch completely and immediately burn it;
• We will apply fertilizers on melted snow on the near-trunk circles of fruit trees, as well as shrubs, and then mulch with manure, humus or peat. Such measures are most loved by raspberry, currant and gooseberry bushes;
• We try not to walk around the site if the earth is still wet, so as not to trample it - wait until the soil dries;
• We prune gooseberries, black and red currants;
• We loosen the dried soil and at the same time we introduce complex mineral fertilizer and humus for perennial plants in the trunk circles;
• We clean tree trunks from mosses and lichens, wash them with a solution of iron sulfate (500 g per 10 liters of water), and also close up hollows and large cracks;
• In the second half of April, we plant seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs in pre-prepared planting pits, while watering them abundantly and, of course, tying them to supports;
• We carefully examine the currant bushes and if you see overgrown buds that resemble cabbage heads, then immediately cut them off and burn them, as bud mites have settled there (several thousand of these voracious pests are hiding in one bud). In April, they have not yet had time to leave the kidneys and, therefore, there is a chance to get rid of them;
• When the snow melts, we deal with strawberries: we rake the mulch from the bushes, cut off the dried leaves, feed them with complex mineral fertilizer (2 tablespoons per m 2 beds) and, if you want to get an early harvest, cover the strawberries with a film, pulling it over arcs.

And in the garden?

We begin work in the garden as soon as the snow completely melts and the soil dries enough so that it does not stick to the shovel and legs:

• • First of all, we will prepare the soil for planting seedlings of vegetable crops in the ground, namely, to preserve moisture, it is necessary to loosen the site and you can immediately plant seedlings;
  • Already at the beginning of the month, radishes, parsley, carrots, onions, lettuce, dill, spinach, peas can be sown in open ground, but on condition that the plantings are covered with a film for the night;
  • In a lighted place 35-40 days before planting, we spread potatoes for vernalization, but only so that there is no direct sunlight and, if April is warm enough in your region, then sprouted varieties of early potatoes can be planted, covering the shoots with a film;
  • We prepare new beds and cover them with a film to retain moisture and heat;
  • We process greenhouses with 3% Bordeaux liquid to destroy pathogens, and it is also advisable to wash all the transparent surfaces of the greenhouse and then loosen the soil and fill it with fertilizers;
  • We sow salads, broccoli, kohlrabi and Beijing cabbage, spice and flavoring herbs in a greenhouse or under a film on a garden bed;
  • We sow peas, carrots, parsnips, spinach, radishes, turnips, dill and parsley in open ground, plant spring garlic, onion sets, onions and shallots on a feather;
  • Also, do not forget to spud seedlings of asparagus, scorzonera, lettuce chicory in order to get bleached shoots;
  • We rake off the mulch from winter plantings of winter garlic and onion sets, loosen the soil and feed;
  • We sow cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin, early undersized tomatoes for seedlings;
  • Because of the new troubles that have appeared, we will try not to forget about the previously planted seedlings of pepper, eggplant and tomatoes, which also require care;
  • We take out seedlings for hardening on warm days in the open air, but protect from direct sunlight;

Let's take care of flowers

Our favorite flowers are also waiting for our attention:

• We begin to gradually remove shelters from roses, rhododendrons and other heat-loving crops that were covered, and if there are still frosts at night, then we only slightly raise the shelters during the day, thereby giving the plants a "breathe";
• We remove the shelters completely when the snow finally melts;
• We cut the roses while the buds have not yet begun to grow, at a temperature not lower than 5 about WITH;
• We cut out thin, weak and too old branches from roses, as well as frozen, blackened, broken and shrunken parts of the shoots to the first overwintered bud on the bottom of the shoot with a green clean crown;
• We cultivate the soil under the bushes with antifungal fungicides, then we fertilize and mulch;
• As soon as the first sprouts of bulbous plants appear, it is necessary to feed them, loosen the soil around them and spray them from pests;
• We rake peat or other mulch from the lilies and, when the stems begin to grow, we feed them, and also, so that the lilies do not get sick, we pour (after a while) with this solution: dilute 1 tablespoon of soda, copper sulfate, ammonia in 1 liter of warm water and this solution, while stirring in a thin stream, pour into a watering can filled with cold water;
• We sow in a greenhouse or under film for seedlings annual dahlias, amaranth, balsam, calendula, cosmea, lavater, alissum, marigolds;
• We remove winter shelters from clematis, feed them and mulch;
• In the end of the month there comes a short spring period of division of perennials such as: peonies - they are divided until the buds start to grow, irises should also be tried to be divided in a very short time, until the period of their active growth has come;

And such perennials as phloxes, astilbes, delphiniums, chrysanthemums can be divided in the spring with less haste. But still, they graft better if divided before the growth and unfolding of the leaves.

• Feed all perennial flowers, after removing the winter shelter;
• Don't forget about the lawn, which also needs your attention, walk on it with a rake to remove debris, and be sure to feed it with nitrogen fertilizer.

That's how much work we have to do, dear summer residents! But no matter how busy we are, let's not forget about rest, about our health.

Happy season, dear friends!

Spring is coming with increasing speed, in April, gardeners and gardeners will have a lot of work. To help novice gardeners plan these works correctly, this article was written. We hope that it will be of interest to both gardeners, and gardeners, and amateur flower growers.

1. Work in the garden in April.
2. April worries of flower growers.

What work should be done in April in the garden

Your garden: works of the month

April work in the country, start with deep loosening of the soil. At the same time, apply fertilizers under fruit and berry crops: nitrogen, phosphorus-potassium and organic.

Heavily compacted clay areas will have to be dug to a depth of 10-15 cm. If the melt water lingers in the garden and the soil is too wet, dig shallow grooves to drain the water.

In April, dacha subbotniks are traditionally held, and work is carried out to clean up the garbage accumulated over the winter.

Release the boles from the winter strapping, unwind the young trees. Clean trunks and skeletal branches of dead bark. Finish pruning the crowns of fruit trees. Cut out the growth. Cover wounds and large cuts with garden pitch.

Pay attention to berry bushes

Spend in April the final pruning of berry bushes. Pluck out enlarged currant buds inhabited by mites.

In mid-April, blackcurrants are propagated with lignified annual cuttings. A cutting 16-18 cm long is cut at the bottom under the kidney itself, at the top - 1-1.5 cm above the kidney. The cuttings are planted in loose, well-prepared soil, obliquely, leaving 1 bud above the ground. Watering, mulching.

In autumn, young cuttings are cut to a height of 10-15 cm, and in the fall of the following year they are planted in a permanent place.

Cuttings of red and white currants are cut and planted in early September. Gooseberries are easier to propagate by layering.

Start caring for strawberries by cleaning the plantation from covering materials, last year's leaves, and extra whiskers.

Try to loosen the aisles early to a depth of 4-5 cm, correct the bushes. Strawberries are very responsive to early loosening. Feed strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers.

Spray abiga-peak fungicide (50 g) with the addition of Novosil (2 ml) per 10 liters of water.

Cut raspberries into well-developed buds. Loosen the soil and fertilize with organic matter mixed with complex mineral fertilizers. Mulch the aisles with compost, humus with a layer of 4-5 cm.

Planting seedlings in April

In April, plant fruit trees, if you did not do it in the fall. Choose 1-2-year-old seedlings, with a good root system, the buds should not yet bloom.

Before planting, soak the seedlings to restore the turgor of the root system, make a clay mash. Water abundantly after planting, mulch the hole with organic matter.

Make a crown pruning of the seedling to restore the connection between the roots and the future crown. If there are lateral branches, cut off one-third of the entire aerial part to the outer kidney.

Shorten the central conductor 20-30 cm above the level of skeletal branches. On a trunk (40-50 cm), blind all the kidneys.

Be sure to treat the garden from diseases and pests in April

Early spring is an important period for protecting the garden from pests and diseases. The apple flower beetle wakes up first - already during the swelling of the kidneys. He is still a little active, cannot fly and climbs into the crown along the stem. To delay him, put trapping belts on the stems, best of all glue.

How to use trap belts

Clean the area of ​​​​the trunk on which the belt is applied from dead bark so that there are no passages for insects under the belt. Make a belt from thick paper or soft cardboard, burlap and spread it with caterpillar glue.

You can make a belt from old cotton wool, loosening it a little: insects get stuck in it. To protect from rain, cover the belt with a polyethylene visor. If there is no caterpillar glue, you can treat the belt with a chemical preparation.

Apply a belt in the middle or upper part of the trunk, or you can put two.

Late with the belt - shake off the pests!

When the buds begin to bloom, it will be too late to impose belts. All wintered beetles will already have time to climb into the crown. It remains only to shake them off on a litter early in the morning, when the air temperature is not higher than 10 degrees.

Before pushing the buds, spend 3-4 shaking. But this is only possible for those gardeners who come to the dacha not only on weekends. The rest will have to use chemical means of protection.

At the beginning of bud break (the “green cone” phase), larvae of aphids, suckers, caterpillars of leafworms, winter moths, cherry moths, weevils, pipeworms and other pests gather on the buds.

Chemical pest and disease control

In April, trees and berry bushes can be sprayed with fufanon or a spark, or kemifos (10 ml per 10 liters of water), or alatar (5 ml). Treat currants against red gall aphids and diseases with kinmix (2.5 ml) + topaz (2 ml).

If the trees in your garden were affected by scab, moniliosis, cluster sporiosis (cherries, plums, apricots), spray very effective at this time with a 3% Bordeaux mixture (300 g copper sulphate + 400 g lime per 10 liters of water).

On open leaves, use only 1% Bordeaux mixture. Instead, other fungicides can be used on the leaves - chorus, scoring, gamair, raek.

In the third decade of April, spray raspberries against aphids, moths and other pests with Fufanon (10 ml) with the addition of estrasol (10 ml) or Novosil (3 ml).

In the second decade of April, spray peaches against moniliosis and leaf curl over the “green cone” with abiga-peak (40 g per 10 l of water).

At the end of the month, before flowering, spray pome crops with a biostimulator (Novosil or extrasol) to increase resistance to adverse conditions (frosts, etc.).

To improve the keeping quality of fruits and their resistance to rot, carry out foliar top dressing with a solution of calcium nitrate (50 g) with the addition of extrasol

What work awaits gardeners in April

Vegetable garden: work of the month

Preparing an early harvest

The sooner you start the gardening season, the more you will do in the spring, the richer the harvest you will get. Many summer residents after winter come to the site for the first time in April. Naturally, the first thing we do is inspect the beds: like garlic, onion sets planted in late autumn overwintered.

If for the winter we threw beds with these crops with leaves, grass, we remove everything so that the soil warms up faster, we loosen it, we apply nitrogen fertilizers (a tablespoon of urea per sq. M).

If there are heads of garlic left at home after the winter, we plant them as early as possible. It does not make sense to store further, and in the ground the teeth will form large single-toothed bulbs, which will fit both in the kitchen and for winter planting. We plant in April and onion sets.

We clean the areas where perennials grow from plant debris (batun onion, chives, asparagus, rhubarb), loosen the soil.

We cover the beds with foil

If at the beginning of April it is not warm enough, you can cover the beds with a film or non-woven material on arcs - we will get the first greenery faster. It is better to use a new film: through it the sun will warm the soil faster. But if the old film is still strong, we wash it properly. In warm weather, we remove the shelter.

In April, it is necessary to unwind rhubarb in the garden, we feed it with complex mineral fertilizer for spring application.

If there is a desire to plant a bush, we take divisions from the periphery of the bush. There, the buds are stronger and, therefore, will give life to more productive plants. Yes, and they shoot later.

In the same way, you can do with an overgrown lovage bush.

Sorrel can be fed with a weak solution of nitrogen fertilizers (0.5 teaspoon of urea or ammonium nitrate per sq. M).

If the sorrel grows well, then we do not feed it in order to protect ourselves from nitrates. Leaves that have grown to 10 cm can already be cut or plucked.

If the sorrel bed is more than one year old, in April it's time to sow it in another place - for a replacement. At the beginning of summer, we will harvest leaves from young plants, and dig up the old bed.

Cold-resistant plants should be sown in April

We do not postpone the sowing of other cold-resistant crops for May:

• lettuce
• spinach
• dill
• parsley
• carrots
• parsnips
• chard
• arugula
• Japanese cabbage
• radish

While it is not hot, in the soil moistened with snow and rain water, they are friendlier and will sprout faster.

Polka dots. Don't forget to sow brain peas in April. It’s hard to find a better treat at the beginning of summer than sweet peas for kids. Peas sown in May sprout worse, and finish blooming and fruiting faster.

With sowing seeds for seedlings in beds covered with foil, it is better not to rush. Let the weed seeds germinate first. On beds covered with foil, weeds begin to sprout after 2-3 days. By loosening the soil, we will greatly facilitate the life of garden plants, which we will sow for seedlings, for an early harvest.

Cabbage. In mid-April (weather permitting), we plant seedlings of all kinds of cabbage in the beds - white cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi, Beijing, Brussels sprouts. Lettuce seedlings will not be afraid of temporary cold snaps. In case of a sharp cold snap, these beds can always be found with something to cover.

Asparagus. We plant a bed with asparagus high (by 20-25 cm) with earth or a mixture of earth and compost, humus to get bleached shoots. You can just add humus, compost, sawdust.

We level the surface of the embankment, lightly tamp it down in order to notice the shoots breaking through the soil layer in time. Already in April, you can cook asparagus salad, scrambled eggs or cook soup. Children enjoy eating fresh asparagus shoots, comparing their taste with green peas.

We plant potatoes

We do not postpone the planting of potato tubers. If the weather is warm, you should not wait until the tubers laid out for germination give sprouts and roots at home: it is better to identify them in a permanent place - in the garden.

Small areas of potato can be covered with foil or non-woven material: the potatoes will rise faster. The 1-2 weeks "saved" in the spring will have a positive effect not only on the timing, but also on the quality and quantity of the crop.

Before planting, we discard tubers with rot spots, filamentous sprouts. We do not plant potatoes in the areas that he occupied in previous years, and next to the beds allocated for planting tomatoes.

Sow herbs

At the end of the month, you can sow spicy herbs on the beds:

• basil
• lemon balm
• thyme
• snakehead
• marjoram
• hyssop.

They will take up little space, but they will bring enormous benefits: both to the plants on the site, protecting them from pests, and to us, giving a unique taste and aroma to drinks, meat and fish dishes, marinades and pickles.

After sowing, it is advisable to cover the beds with non-woven material, paper, in order to retain moisture in the soil until germination. We use the film for these purposes only if we visit the country house every day and have the opportunity to remove it in case of a sharp warming.

Our spring is unpredictable, and heat can happen in April: under the film, tender shoots will burn out in a matter of minutes. We can't even find traces of them.

Don't forget about pests

In April, it is already necessary to take measures to protect garden plants. Radish, cabbage, watercress, mustard can be harmed by cruciferous flea. We dust the crops with sifted wood ash, install glue traps. Loosening the soil and the same wood ash will help against the cruciferous fly.

Some summer residents, in order to protect cabbage, radish from pests, grow them under a thin non-woven material on arcs, pressing it tightly to the soil.

We take care of the soil

In an effort to sow and plant faster, let's not forget to walk with a rake through the beds dug up since autumn. If this is not done while the soil is wet, then several times more effort will have to be expended to level the beds, and the beneficial spring moisture will be irretrievably lost.

The soil ready for cultivation does not stick to the rake, but crumbles without forming large lumps. In low, shaded places, we cultivate the soil last, let it dry so as not to compact.

We remove all plant debris from the site left after the last season, and lay it in layers in a compost pile, pouring each layer with soil or humus, compost. If we regularly moisten the pile, the compost will ripen by autumn.

In early April, it is still possible to sow with fast-growing green manure (mustard, phacelia) beds set aside for planting seedlings of nightshade crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants).

Fight weeds

When preparing the beds for planting, we carefully select the rhizomes of wheatgrass, thistle, field bindweed and other perennial weeds from the soil. In a week we will return to these beds to pull out the weeds that have appeared from the ground.

Couch grass is persistent in its desire to develop all the new beds of the garden, but we will be more persistent than him, and we will wipe out couch grass, thistle without the help of herbicides.

What work should be done in April in greenhouses

In early April, the greenhouse should be ready for planting seedlings of tomatoes or cucumbers. If the greenhouse is film, it is better to cover it with a new film, if it is glass, wash the glass thoroughly. We fertilize the soil with organic matter (up to a bucket of compost or humus) or complex fertilizers for spring application (up to two tablespoons per sq. M).

What to plant in a greenhouse

Radish. As an intermediate crop, early varieties of radish can be sown. Although it is cold-resistant, it will quickly form root crops under the film. We immediately try to sow the seeds at the right distance from each other in order to provide the plants with sufficient illumination and feeding area even without thinning.

After 10-15 cm from each other, we make sowing grooves, spill them with hot water and lay out the seeds after 3-4 cm from each other. If we doubt the quality of the seeds (old, frail in appearance), we sow more often - after 1-2 cm,

If the radish sprouts densely, you will have to thin out, otherwise we will not harvest, but admire the flowering of the radish. The seeding depth is about 1.5 cm.

We do not open the greenhouse until the shoots appear: the warmer, the faster the radish will rise. But after germination, the temperature in the greenhouse will have to be controlled by constant ventilation: otherwise, the radish will develop powerful tops, but frail root crops.

During the formation of root crops for radishes, regular watering is very important: the soil should be constantly moderately moist. Interruptions in watering give rise to defects in root crops: they crack.

Dill, garlic, onion. You can sparsely scatter dill seeds in the greenhouse, plant chives and onions in the aisles of future beds. We will not completely remove these crops from the greenhouse even after cucumbers or tomatoes grow. They will help maintain a healthy microclimate in the greenhouse.

Spinach. Spinach is considered a good neighbor and predecessor of most vegetable crops. It can also be sown as an intermediate crop, not only in open beds, but also in a greenhouse. And the sooner the better.

April, with its still not very long daylight hours, is a great time to get vitamin leaves.

To determine the timing of sowing various crops, use the "blooming tips":

• The first crocuses (yellow) have blossomed - you can sow chives, leeks, and after a few days other cold-resistant crops.
• The birch has turned green in the sun - it's time to plant potato tubers for summer consumption, onion sets.
• The flowering of early daffodils will tell you that you can already sow lettuce, plant cabbage seedlings in the beds, sow beets.
• The lilac blossomed violently - you can sow early cucumbers.
• Buds on peonies formed and became clearly visible, viburnum blossomed - the soil warmed up enough for sowing late cucumbers, corn, melons.

April work of flower growers

Your flower garden: works of the month.

Gardeners and gardeners of the Moscow region have already opened a new summer season. For beginners, the first question now arises - what important work in the garden and vegetable garden in April 2019 in the Moscow region needs to be done and where to start.

April days in the last few years have been quite warm and sunny. Nature is actively waking up, while many different matters of paramount importance immediately pile up on summer residents. The main thing to remember is that all spring work on the plot must be completed on time in order to subsequently get a good harvest.

From April 1 to April 5, you can sow the seeds of late cabbage, and after another five days - the seeds of cabbage of the middle growing period. In the garden at this time it is worth digging grooves in the snow to drain melt water from greenhouses. Also we begin sanitary pruning of pome trees: cut diseased and shrunken parts of the branches to healthy tissues; clean the wounds with a sharp garden knife and cover with garden pitch or paint over with oil paint on natural drying oil.

In early April, sow flower crops for seedlings: amaranth, ankhuz, bartonia, marigolds, levkoy, legusia, nemophila, felicia, Drummond's phlox, keeled chrysanthemum, sowing and crowned, zinnia, echium.

During the same period it is worth dive the first time the March crops and the second time the February ones. For seedlings, use peat pots or paper cups with a height and diameter of about 5-7 cm. Pour sterile sand over the substrate with a layer of 0.5 cm.

From 15 to 20 April sowing tomato seeds for open ground. The exact date should be chosen in accordance with the gardener's lunar sowing calendar.

In the last decade, taking into account weather conditions, you can start first sowing. It is worth starting with light soils (sandy and sandy loam), as they are ready for sowing earlier. It is easy to determine the readiness of the soil: if a clod of earth taken in a fist, thrown from the height of the chest, crumbles into several lumps, the time has come.

You can start prepare the soil for sowing. It is advisable to shed the beds in greenhouses with a solution of Baikal EM-1 fertilizer in a ratio of 1:100, add ash or artificial mineral fertilizers, loosen with a flat cutter, and level with a rake.

From April 25, you can start sowing seeds of carrots, parsley, turnips, dill, leaf and head lettuce, radishes, watercress, onions for sets, seedlings of cauliflower and kohlrabi.

At the beginning of April in the garden you can to carry out forming and breed-varietal pruning fruit trees and berry bushes. If the pruning of fruit trees and berry bushes is not completed in the snow, it can be continued after the soil has dried out a little. Do not be afraid of the sight of swollen buds on the branches.

After the snow has completely melted, nitrogen fertilizer must be applied.(urea or ammonium nitrate). Fertilizers are scattered over the surface of the soil.

We examine fruit trees for the presence of areas of bark damaged by mice or hares. After detection, wounds are disinfected with a 1% solution of copper or iron sulfate, and then, when the surface dries, they must be wrapped with a black film so that light and water do not penetrate. If there is no black film, then you can use the usual one, but at the same time shade the wound with at least newsprint folded in 2-3 layers. If the bark is damaged around the entire circumference, graft with a bridge.

If the trees were very sick last season with scab or fruit rot, spend "blue spray" 3% Bordeaux mixture. However, do not abuse this tool: the accumulation of copper in the soil in excess can be harmful.

It's time to start grafting or re-grafting fruit trees(if you want to change the variety or, if necessary, repair the tree). If in the garden there are trees of non-hardy varieties that freeze above the stem, then they must be re-grafted. Trees from 3 years of age to 10 years are suitable for this operation.

At the end of April, you can make cuttings from currants for the purpose of reproduction. The processing of strawberry plantings also begins. First of all, all last year's leaves are removed. With the left hand, they grab the leaves located on any one side of the row, and with the right garden knife they cut their petioles closer to the base of the bush. After removing the leaves, the ground must be mulched, for example, with peat.

When the soil in the garden is completely thawed (the shovel enters it without difficulty), start pruning roses. Unwind them, leave 3-4 of the strongest, healthiest green shoots and cut short (2-3 buds). Cut vigorous varieties longer - by 4-6 buds. Weak, broken, blackened, stained stems cut to the base. Cut varieties with upright shoots to the outer bud, sprawling ones to the inner bud.

Strong and medium pruning is used for hybrid tea roses, as well as floribunda, grandiflora, polyanthus, miniature and semi-climbing roses, blooming on the shoots of the current year. Shorten the long shoots of climbing roses only a little and cut out very old, weak or broken ones. Flowers in this group are formed on last year's shoots, as in park roses (they are pruned in the same way).

Garden work in April 2019, video