How to assemble a drawer in a sliding wardrobe 7. Tips. We assemble the box and nail the back wall

Sliding wardrobes are very popular due to their design and spectacular appearance. Installation is quite laborious and requires certain skills. There are many special cases that do not fall under the standards, so I will talk about how to assemble a classic cabinet wardrobe with a combined sliding door system. If you have an unusual model, follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Details that make up the closet

The assembly of the cabinet wardrobe is carried out in the following order:

1. Unpacking and sorting parts.
2. Installing the base.
3. On top of it we collect the frame.
4. At the same time, we install internal partitions.
5. We attach non-removable shelves to them.
6. We fix the back wall.
7. Install removable shelves.
8. Install door guides.
9. We mount rods and (pantographs, baskets, trousers, neckties, etc.);
10. We install and adjust sliding doors.

To avoid confusion and unnecessary labor, I recommend that you install in the specified sequence. But before starting assembly, read the manual from the manufacturer.

Standard build order

What to do if there is no instruction?

Serial products that are purchased, for example, through a retail chain of stores, always contain assembly instructions. If the cabinet is made to order, then paper documentation is usually not included, and you will have to manage on your own, or resort to the services of professional furniture assemblers.

Expert opinion

Alexander Didenko

Furniture assembler at Mabax

It is rather difficult for one person to assemble a bulky structure - invite an assistant. It will be required when installing the frame and internal partitions, especially if you bought a wide model with four leaves.

To assemble a conventional wardrobe, you need the following tools:

• screwdriver, cordless or simple Phillips screwdriver PH2;
• hammer (used to drive nails into the back wall);
• hexagon 5 mm under Confirmat ("Euroscrew", "screw tie") - a single-element screed for connecting parts made of wood materials (chipboard, MDF, plywood, solid wood and others). or a similar attachment for a screwdriver;
• angular ruler (so that the parts are perpendicular);
• tape measure for checking diagonals;
• building level.

The production model comes with a set of appropriate fittings, and the parts are already drilled in the right places - it remains only to assemble. Custom cabinets, especially those made by garages, often come without drilling, which greatly complicates the process. In this case, before proceeding with the assembly, you need to mark and drill the parts, having previously prepared the fasteners that will be used.

Sometimes, to facilitate the assembly process, especially if the cabinet is too high or long, designers break it into several separate modules, for example, a body and a mezzanine, or several sections, which are subsequently twisted together. In this case, sort the parts modularly, again according to the instructions.

Base assembly

Start the installation process from the bottom of the cabinet. In the vast majority of cases, sliding wardrobes are installed on adjustable supports so that, if necessary, it is possible to correct floor irregularities. As a rule, plastic legs are used, which are then covered with a plinth.

Example of a base with plastic legs

If there is no drilling on the parts (in particular, marks for supports), then mark the bottom of the cabinet from the outside for the installation of legs and a plinth. Screw the supports to the bottom surface with screws 3.5 * 15. Then fix the plinth - either using the plastic clips that come with the supports, or screw it to the bottom with mounting brackets. In the first case, the plinth is removable, in the second - rigidly fixed.

Frame assembly

Before proceeding with the assembly of the frame, adjust the bottom of the cabinet using the building level. If the height of the ceilings subsequently allows you to raise the cabinet, assemble the case on the floor, lying down. With a small gap between the cabinet and the ceiling, you will have to do it in a vertical position, which is less convenient.

Approximately, you can focus on the following indicator - if the height of the ceilings is greater than the diagonal of the sidewall of the cabinet, then the case can be assembled on the floor. In this case, additionally, the height of the supports should be taken into account.

We start assembling the cabinet from the right wall. Then we move on to the left.

Mounting the side walls and top cover

Attach the sidewalls to the bottom and roof using confirmations or eccentric couplers, depending on the drillings made. In the case when there are no mounting holes, it is permissible to assemble the case on mounting brackets - this eliminates the need for additional marking and drilling.

Shelf fixing

There are two types of shelves - removable and rigidly fixed. In the first case, the shelf is mounted on shelf holders, and its width should be a couple of millimeters less than the internal dimension of the section. In the second option, the width corresponds to the size of the section, and itself, eccentrics or corners.

In our model of a two-wing wardrobe, the shelves are attached to the corners on one side and on the screws on the other.

In each section of the cabinet, it is desirable to provide at least one fixed shelf in order to give the structure additional rigidity. They must be mounted simultaneously with internal partitions or immediately after them.

Rear mount

Usually made of HDPE with a thickness of 3-4 mm. It is fastened with furniture nails, special branded fixtures or 4 * 16 screws and lining corners or washers of the appropriate diameter. The second and third options are preferable, since they firmly fix the back wall, unlike furniture nails. Step length between fasteners 150-180 mm.

The back wall is not available in all models of cabinets. In our case, it is absent and we just put the cabinet close to the wall

Screw HDPE around the entire perimeter of the outer body of the cabinet, to internal partitions and rigidly fixed shelves. You can also fix the back wall at an earlier stage, immediately after installing the internal partitions, while the case is still on the floor. The front decorative side should look inward.

A fairly large number of young families moving into a new apartment are faced with the problem of the situation. In most cases, newlyweds do not have the money to buy decent furniture. In addition, small rooms make it premature to worry about the correct location of all interior elements.

A common solution to this problem, which makes it possible to place the most necessary things first and not take up much space in the apartment, is to assemble the cabinet with your own hands.

How to assemble a closet?

If you prepare all the necessary tools in advance, you can quickly and easily assemble this design yourself. This will not require any special skills.

To properly assemble the cabinet, you need to break down into stages all the work done. These works will include a number of sequential operations, which are as follows:

• a scheme is being designed;
• all necessary tools are prepared;
• all purchased parts are purchased and adjusted;
• construction is being assembled.

Tools needed to assemble the structure:

• an electric drill, with which screws will be twisted and holes drilled;
• a hammer to be able to hammer dowels;
• roulette;
• building level;
• a simple pencil to take measurements and make marks;
• glue, which is needed in order to glue the pile;
• a hacksaw for wood, so that it is possible to fit all the elements to the required dimensions;
• a large number of screws and dowels.

First of all, it will be necessary to check the quality of each element. There should be no swelling, cracks or other defects on the parts. During the transportation of structural elements, it is important to observe the existing safety precautions. Parts must be well fixed in the car body.

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How to design a closet?

Before assembly, you will need to decide on the sketch and the location of the structure. In this case, there are no specific tips, you need to proceed from personal preferences. Most often, cabinets are placed in the pantry, in the corner of the room or near the wall.

If you assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, you can save a significant amount from the family budget. It’s great if the owner already has primary skills in working with furniture, but even beginners today will learn how to make a sliding wardrobe with their own hands, even if at first glance the task seems super complicated. The step-by-step master class described by us, as well as drawings and photos of each stage, will allow you to quickly and efficiently carry out installation.

What materials and tools are needed for assembly

Today, the sliding wardrobe occupies a leading place among products for storing things. It has a lot of functions, in addition, a wide range of models and a range of sizes. The main advantage of sliding wardrobes is that they do not “eat up” additional space for opening doors. That is why, in the conditions of small-sized "stalinok" and "Khrushchev" when choosing between a wardrobe and a compartment, preference is given to the latter option.

Assembling a sliding wardrobe at home does not seem to be a hopeless task at all. To do this, you just need to have tools, material, and also familiarize yourself with the technology.

Often, when you buy a product without paying for the services of assemblers, the manufacturing company must attach drawings of the product and its photo in finished form to the product. In addition, the accompanying documents list all the parts of the kit, which are numbered in order. Just by looking at the drawing, you can gradually assemble the furniture by intuition.

In order to start the assembly process, you should prepare the following tools:

• building level (with its help, the evenness of the frame relative to the floor and walls is checked);
• corner;
• regular and rubber hammer;
• Phillips and straight screwdriver;
• yardstick;
• Ruler and pencil;
• screwdriver;
• drill for metal - to install a plinth made of aluminum;
• wood drill.

You may also need a drill, a jigsaw and sandpaper.

Important! Before starting work, be sure to check the completeness of the goods that were delivered to you, and the compliance of the proposed parts with the assembly scheme. Pay special attention to accessories. This means that if the assembly scheme prescribes the presence of drawers, then the kit should include ball guides.

Step by step wardrobe assembly

Before starting work, you need to familiarize yourself with the stages of work to be performed. Almost all coupes are assembled according to this algorithm:

• plinth;
• frame;
• back wall;
• shelves and guides;
• compartment doors.

Only after passing all the stages is the introduction of all internal elements. These include retractable baskets, rods, drawers, pantographs and hooks. Here are step-by-step instructions for completing each stage.

Plinth installation

The assembly of all types of compartments begins with their lowest part, which subsequently will bear the entire load of the structure. Find the part you need in the kit and put it in front of you. Take screwdrivers or a screwdriver, a hexagon, a tape measure and a pencil for marking. Check if the screws and special plastic camouflage plugs are in place. The assembly takes place according to the following algorithm:

• On the part intended for the bottom, mark the place for installing the plinth.
• You can use adjustable legs instead of plinths, but the place for them should also be noted.

• Drill a hole for the fastener.
• Attach the bottom with confirmations (corners) to the planks using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
• Assemble the cross supports for the plinth, which are designed for greater stability.
• Note that some furniture options, for example, the Phoenix model, require adjustable legs. This is embodied simply: plastic plugs are cut off with a knife, and the legs themselves are screwed into holes specially drilled in the bottom with a diameter of 10 mm.

Case assembly

Carefully study the diagram, as the assembly of the case in the future ensures the safe operation of the cabinet. The stability of all internal elements depends on how well and reliably it will be installed.

Important! In order for the assembly of the cabinet to be accurate, it is necessary to check in detail the evenness of the floor surface in the place where the furniture will be located. To do this, use the building level. If during the check you find differences, adjust the twisted legs.

Only then start collecting the box. Action plan:

• It is better to carry out the entire assembly while standing, since it is almost impossible to mount a perfectly fitted cabinet in a prone position. But it is important to remember that for the final assembly, you need to leave a minimum of 100 mm for the installation of the roof.
• In those parts that are designed for the bottom, drill a few holes and insert the anchor. On these fasteners, rack-mount strips will subsequently be mounted.
• Installation of standing panels must be carried out by two people. First of all, the left sidewall is inserted, and while one of the partners holds it, the second one inserts the right side.
• After that, the middle rack is installed, if it is provided for by the drawing, and the last one. Behind it, the roof is being installed. If you are assembling the product in a standing position, then it is better to fix the roof by planting it on confirmations or corners.
• Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobes like a maestro are much more difficult to assemble. It is better to work with them in a group of 3-4 people strictly according to the instructions.

Rear wall mounting

In order to attach the back wall, you need to correctly select consumables-fasteners. Often assemblers choose fasteners incorrectly, so over time the back sheet of fiberboard moves away from the frame.

Interesting! In the days of the Soviet Union, fasteners were carried out using nails, but this is undesirable.

Follow this algorithm of actions:

1. Get a sheet of hardboard behind the cabinet.
2. Holding it with your hands, take short self-tapping screws and use a screwdriver to screw them in every 10-20 cm around the perimeter. If the cabinet model has several elements that make up the back wall, then fasten them end-to-end using special furniture tightening fasteners.

How to install shelves and rails

So that after a while you don’t have to disassemble the furniture and redo all the work from the very beginning, make sure that the frame is stable and reliable, then proceed to filling the insides with various functional elements: rods, shelves, drawers and guides.

Important! Before starting installation, make sure that you have all the necessary fittings.

First of all, pay attention to such nuances:

• Shelves are fastened using self-tapping screws and corners. For this purpose, the parts already have drilled holes. Mark the distance between the shelves, and attach them to the sides and the center bar.

• Do-it-yourself sliding wardrobe doors are fastened quickly and easily. First, install the upper rails for the doors, after that the lower rails. We emphasize that the installation of these elements is carried out strictly in a perfect straight line. It directly depends on whether the door will be easy to move during operation.
• A clothes rail is installed on special flanges. They usually come with a set. If necessary, the excess pipe is sawn off with a hacksaw.
• Fasten the mechanisms for the operation of retractable elements, place them in their places.

Finishing door installation

In order for the do-it-yourself sliding sliding wardrobe to be ready for operation, it is necessary to mount the sashes.

Important! A sliding wardrobe is considered to be properly assembled if the upper rails are attached at the same level with the front edge of the sides, and the lower roller blinds recede from them by 1-15 mm.

• The first part of the doors that will move along the rear rail is installed. Install it with a roller in the lower groove, and then in the upper one.
• Repeat manipulations with the second part.

Remember! Do all the work carefully if you have a glass door in the kit. This part of the wardrobe is one of the most expensive, so make sure that it does not break or fall out due to inept installation.

• Completion - the installation of stoppers for the doors, which will not allow them to jump off the fashionable sliding system.

Important! Do-it-yourself corner wardrobe is mounted in the same way. The only difference between the corner model is that in this case different types of doors can be used: coupe, standard or screen type. The latter are used to equip precisely the corner part of the structure. Such furniture can be placed in a hallway or a small living room, saving space and using the available space as efficiently as possible.

As you can see, it is quite simple to assemble a fashionable sliding wardrobe on your own. You need a minimum of tools, care and clarity in following the instructions. Have you had any experience in making similar structures? Write in the comments.

Video: Instructions for assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands

The wardrobe is the most functional piece of furniture. It can be easily placed even in a small area. Such a design today is quite expensive, so it makes sense to assemble it with your own hands.

cabinet project

The first thing you need to do and decide on the place of its installation. In this case, everything is individual, there are no specific tips. You can install the cabinet in the closet, niche in the wall or corner of the room.

If there is enough free space, then the size of the structure should be chosen based on the rule of the golden section, that is, the ratio of height and length should be 1.62.

Figure 1. A variant of the drawing of the wardrobe.

If the ceilings in the room are 2.5 m high, then it is best to choose a cabinet length of 1.54 m (250 / 1.62 \u003d 1.543). In most cases, the standard depth of furniture parts is 60 cm. It is not recommended to do more than this depth, because it may be inconvenient to get clothes from the upper shelves. It should also be borne in mind that all the details that are located inside the structure should be 10 cm narrower.

When a suitable installation site is selected, you will need to draw up a drawing. It is advisable to make a detailed diagram of the cabinet and all shelves with dimensions. This can be done on a computer or on paper. Special software allows you to quickly calculate the number and dimensions of all boards for cutting.

The cabinet design process using special software consists of the following steps:

1. Determination of the dimensions of the manufactured cabinet.
2. Choosing the right material for manufacturing.
3. Breakdown of space inside into separate sections.
4. Filling this space with boxes (if necessary).
5. Determining the size and material of doors.
6. Adding additional side elements (if necessary).
7. Determination of the ends that need to be edged.
8. Selection of suitable fittings and its arrangement.

If you wish, you can print a 3D image of the cabinet to make it easier to assemble.

A drawing of the cabinet to be assembled is shown in Figure 1. The length of the cabinet is 1.5 m, the depth is 60 cm, and the height is 2.4 m.

This cabinet can be placed in the pantry if there is a beam on top. The doors will not go all the way to the ceiling.

Shelves are made of ordinary laminated chipboard in the color you like. To fix them, you need to use self-tapping screws and metal corners.

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Items to work

Figure 2. Scheme of a more advanced wardrobe.

After carrying out all the calculations, you will need to purchase all the necessary parts. Sawing and edge processing can be done independently or ordered from the manufacturer. However, it should be understood that at home it will not be possible to produce a high-quality cut. This is due to the fact that special tools are needed for cutting. In special workshops, it is possible to make cuts of complex shapes, shelves with round corners, cut out patterns, and so on.

The cost of sawing all the elements and their processing is a small part of the cost of the cabinet.

To order sawing parts from the manufacturer, you will need to have a ready-made drawing indicating all the dimensions of the elements.

You will need the following items:

• 3 boards 60x150 cm (will be placed horizontally);
• 2 boards 60x200 cm (located vertically);
• 1 piece 60x135 cm;
• 3 parts for shelves 60x32.5 cm;
• 1 sheet 30x150 cm for the shelf, which is placed behind the beam;
• 3 boards 40x30 cm for the shelf, which is placed behind the beam.

At this stage, it is important to avoid errors in the calculation, so before buying parts, you need to study the drawing and calculate the existing gaps.

The production costs of all elements in a special workshop will consist of:

• drawing up a cutting map (it is recommended to entrust the cutting to the master);
• cutting laminated chipboard;
• skirting board production;
• production of round parts.

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Cabinet assembly

You can assemble the cabinet with your own hands as follows:

Figure 3. Calculation of wardrobe doors.

1. First of all, you need to install the 60x150 cm part on the floor, and then fix 2 side boards to it. If the room has a baseboard, it is recommended to remove it so that you do not have to cut the walls at an angle. You can fix all the elements on dowels to the wall or on metal corners to the bottom board using self-tapping screws. In some cases, plastic furniture corners are used for shelves, but it should be understood that they are unreliable.
2. Next, the shelves are assembled, which will be located inside. To do this, you need to connect 2 horizontal parts 60x150 cm (which are located above the bar) with a board 60x135 cm and 3 transverse compartments of small sizes.
3. Finished compartments are fixed into the cabinet on the corners using self-tapping screws. If you can get to the side walls, then it is allowed to use euro screws for fixing. This element is often used to assemble cabinets.
4. Next, the upper shelves are installed, which are made separately from the outside. To do this, you need to fix 3 partitions 40x30 cm to the part 30x150 cm.

If a cabinet is made with a top cover that is equal to the length of the cabinet, then you should know that fixing it is quite problematic. In this case, you will need to leave the desired height so that you can pry the upper part with a hexagon. The lid can also be attached to metal corners.

The result is 2 large compartments for hangers, in which you can put outerwear, dresses, suits and so on. There will also be 1 large shelf on one side, and the other side will be divided into 3 small compartments. On top there will be one shelf of large width, which is divided into 3 small compartments near the wall. At the very top there is a shelf for clothes of small sizes.

The location of the shelves can be seen in Fig. 2.

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Door installation

The most difficult stage is the installation of doors.

Doors can be purchased at the store or assembled with your own hands.

The width of sliding doors must be a maximum of 1 m.

If the length of the cabinet is 1.54 m, then you need to divide it by 2.

Each door will be 77 cm wide + overlap 2-3 cm to avoid gaps.

The layout of the doors can be seen in Fig. 3.

For example, if the ceiling height is 2.5 m, then the thickness of the pads in the upper and lower parts should be 1.6 cm, and the clearance for the wheels in the upper and lower parts should be 1.5 cm. As a result, the height of the doors is calculated as follows: 250 - 1.6 - 1.6 - 1.5 - 1.5 \u003d 243.8 cm. Side profiles must be made of the same height. The gaps may vary. Everything will depend on the profiles that are used, so it is important to read the instructions from the manufacturer.

1. The doors are fixed in the pantry opening, so around the perimeter you will need to make a gasket from laminated chipboard.
2. Next cut the guides for the doors. They should match the width of the cabinet being made and fit easily between the walls. They will need to be fixed strictly according to the level, while they should be parallel to each other. First of all, it will be necessary to fix the upper rail on self-tapping screws with press washers, and then the lower one. You will need to insert the stoppers when the doors are not open.
3. When the guides are evenly installed, you will need to insert the door. First of all, you will need to insert the far door into the upper guide, and then lift it up to install the door in the lower part. The front door is also inserted - first of all, the upper part is inserted, then the lower.
4. In order to adjust the doors, you will need to tighten the bolt at the bottom with a hexagon. If the bolt is tightened, the door will rise. If he gets out, then the door drops. If the doors are parallel, they will open easily. If the doors are installed incorrectly, the rollers may start to pop out.
5. At this stage, the assembly of the cabinet is completed. You can hang hooks, fix a hanger rod and install additional drawers if necessary.

By doing all the assembly work yourself, you can save quite a lot of money. If you have some skills and desire, then you can assemble the cabinet quickly enough. It is important to perform all actions carefully.

- about its assembly.

Theoretically, everything seems to be clear. The sides are attached to the horizon, the necessary modules are mounted, all this is installed on a common horizon, well, and so on ...

And when the installation time comes, many beginners have a lot of questions: How, for example, to assemble the box, lying or standing? And when to fill the back wall? And when to fix the built-in module with drawers?

Moreover, it turns out that even individual cabinet modules are quite heavy. In a word, everything seems to be clear, but, in practice, not everything is so simple.

So let's take a look at this question with a simple example.

In this case, we have a product consisting of three sections, in the central section - a module with drawers.

Before installing it, the following steps must be taken:

• All parts must be drilled (meaning they must have all the docking holes)
• The upper rail for the sliding system must be fixed on the upper horizon (The lower rail is not fixed, since it can then be used to set the entire system vertically, and when installing the assembled modules on the horizon, the lower rail can simply be damaged.)
• The drawer module must be pre-drilled under the tie bolts to the internal partitions of the cabinet
• The module itself must be fully assembled, the facades on it must be exposed

Actually, there is a law

Before installation, you need to do the maximum of everything possible that can be done before installation.

Even such a trifle as fixing corners on parts will “steal” more time from you at the installation than in the assembly shop, for one reason - at the installation everything has to be done “on the go”, using improvised materials, in uncomfortable positions.

The photo shows how the extreme module is assembled.

It has a side wall, 100mm larger than the partition (if you are wondering why - read), therefore, you need to put something under the partition, 100mm high, so that the module lies flat.

After assembly, this module must be raised (we agreed that the diagonal of the outermost, widest side is less than the height from the floor to the ceiling of the room), and in a standing position, fix a stiffener on the corners.

Then, the module must be put down again, and the back wall should be carefully stuffed (carefully, because if the studs are hammered in crookedly, they can break the chipboard from the side).

Each assembled module is lifted, and installed, on a common horizon pre-installed in its place (and exposed).

Yes, you must not forget, when the module is still lying, to drill holes in the body strips for further fastening of the upper horizon (it is fastened through these holes with 4x30 self-tapping screws).

When the module is already standing on a common horizon, it will be inconvenient to drill holes (moreover, if the distance from the last shelf to the body plate is less than the size of the drill, then it is generally impossible, since it will not work from the inside, and generally the gaps from above usually go to millimeters ... 20- 50 mm.

Each subsequent module is pulled together with the previous tie bolts, and the resulting structure is set relative to the common lower horizon.

Then the upper horizon is attached (we agreed that we fixed the upper guide of the sliding system on it in advance, so as not to “practice” this on the installation, wasting precious time).

After all, a sliding system is installed, regulated, well, and in general, everything, the cabinet is assembled.

I think the meaning of what was written is clear, especially since it is not difficult to assemble a sliding wardrobe. Simply, it is more convenient to read once how everything should be done than to rack your brains and spoil your nerves later.

That's all, see you in the next posts.