Instructions for the step-by-step construction of plasterboard partitions with your own hands. Plasterboard interior partitions: device rules How to install plasterboard partitions

Interroom partition for adjacent rooms.

If you install partitions made of high-quality building material, drywall and tongue-and-groove blocks are suitable for such needs. With a low cost of material and installation work, every owner of an apartment, private house and office can afford them.

Partitions for zoning a room.

The results obtained have a neat appearance. Any type of communication fits well between them. Electrical wires, various cables, water and sewer pipes are perfectly located behind the partitions. The owners can be firmly confident in the absolute safety and durability of installation work.

GKL - partitions in the office.

Stationary partitions are attached to the floor, wall, ceiling and cannot move. They are installed in organizations where there is no need to move them. Plasterboard partitions are the easiest and most convenient way to zone the workspace and make it comfortable for the employee.

There is a huge variety of materials from which interior partitions are erected. A partition is a wall that divides the interior of a room into separate zones. Not only fixed walls can act as partitions, but also all kinds of screens and structures.

Radius structures will transform the interior, especially when choosing curved shapes, but the installation of such a partition will require design skills.

The choice of material and design from which the partitions will be installed depends on the requirements placed on it.

If it is planned to block off the room for a long time and the separation should provide thermal and sound insulation, then a solid supporting structure should be installed. In other cases, it is better to use partitions that are easily moved apart or moved.

Screens are often used in the interior. With their help, not only divide the space into zones, but also decorate the room. Screens are the cheapest of all types of partitions.

The most durable is considered a stationary partition - a wall that allows you to completely isolate the room. For its installation, brick, drywall slabs, wood, glass blocks, cellular concrete slabs and other materials are used. With their help, you can install a partition with a doorway.

Installation of a brick partition

Brick partitions have very good soundproofing properties. Brick is a fairly moisture-resistant material, but when building a partition in a bathroom, it is better to use solid bricks. The disadvantage is significant weight and obligatory plastering before final finishing.

A brick partition is most often erected in half or a quarter of a brick. For masonry, a mortar of 1 part cement and 5 parts sand is used. Add 1 liter of water for every 2 kg of the mixture. Masonry is carried out by applying a mortar layer (approximately 10 mm) to the brick. The brick is pressed against the floor and wall. The solution is applied to the next brick and pressed against the first. With the help of a trowel, excess solution is removed. You should constantly check the establishment of blocks at the same level. In its raw form, such masonry is very unstable, therefore, more than 1.5 meters should not be laid out in one stage. After erecting a brick partition, it is plastered, overwritten and prepared for painting or wallpapering.

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Installation of a partition from tongue-and-groove plates (PGP)

This is the easiest and fastest option for building partitions. Weight, compared with brick installations, is 4 times less. The plates are made of building gypsum. They have supporting and docking surfaces. Partitions from such plates are moisture resistant, odorless, well regulate the humidity in the house. They are easy to cut and process. Partition from PGP does not require plastering. The disadvantage is the inability to withstand heavy structures. Mirrors, paintings and other items up to 30 kg are attached to the partition only with screws and dowels. Heavier items are attached using anchors and bolts that go through the wall.

The tongue-and-groove plates are quite easy to install, they are easy to saw and process. Such a partition is installed on the finished floor screed before applying the finish coat. As a connector, a special adhesive is used for mounting this kind of plates. The prepared solution is applied to the base of the walls and floor at the joints with the plates. The comb is cut off at the first row. A mortar is applied to the upper side with a groove and the laying of the first row begins. Each plate is pressed with a rubber mallet. Using a spatula, the protruding glue is removed. When laying the next rows, the mortar should be applied to the sides and groove of the previous row. A high partition is performed in several stages of 4-5 rows to allow the glue to dry.

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Installation of aerated concrete partition

Aerated concrete is made by foaming cement mortar. Such a partition has good thermal and sound insulation properties. Installation is less time consuming compared to brickwork. The disadvantage is low air permeability.

When laying, a sand-cement mixture or tile adhesive is used. First, a layer of mortar is applied on the basis of the planned partition and the first row of blocks is laid out. The next row should be installed by first smearing the surfaces to be joined with glue. It is constantly necessary to check the uniformity of the masonry using a level. Fastening is carried out using metal fittings.

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The intensity of the light rays passing through them depends on the color and texture of the glass blocks. By choosing the right kind of blocks, you can get an interesting color and light effect.

Such partitions are easy to assemble, reliable and interesting design. The surface of the block is smooth, transparent, corrugated, colored, matte. A pattern of small pieces of colored glass can be applied to the surface. Partitions made of glass blocks are durable, have good soundproofing qualities and fire resistance. They transmit light, tolerate large temperature differences. Glass blocks do not accumulate dirt and do not absorb odors. The disadvantage is the inability to lay communications, hang anything on the wall.

For bonding glass blocks, a cement mortar is used that does not contain large grains of sand. The laying method is similar to brickwork. The base for the partition must be leveled and cleaned. Plastic crosses are installed between the blocks so that the seams are even. Do not lay out more than 3 rows per day. The masonry must be reinforced with a metal rod.

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Installation of plasterboard partitions

The advantages are low consumption of materials, low cost of work performed. You can put a partition in a short period of time. The result is dry, smooth and seamless wall surfaces. Inside the wall, you can hide electrical wiring and other engineering networks. A plasterboard partition allows you to put a wall with a doorway.

The use of perforated steel rack profile for partitions is very effective in the construction of various interior structures. The metal frame can be covered with a single or double layer of GKL sheets. Insulating material is usually placed between sheets of drywall. Installation of partitions can be with the use of a single or double frame.

The partitions are not limited in length, and the height directly depends on how thick the steel racks are, what type they are and what distance is between them. When designing a partition, it is imperative to take into account the amount of load that it will have to withstand. The thickness of the drywall sheet, the thickness and type of the frame itself also depend on this.

A variety of door frames are installed in drywall partitions. The main thing is the stability of the frame racks so that they can withstand the weight of the door. The calculation takes into account the thickness and height of the wall, the weight of the door itself and the method of its use.

With the help of a special cord, a line is marked along which it will be possible to install a plasterboard partition on the floor. For quick and correct installation of the partition, all the places where the rack profiles and doorways will be located should be marked. It is necessary to take into account the type and thickness of drywall sheets. Using a plumb line and a cord, markup is transferred to the ceiling and adjacent walls.

After that, length adjustment is carried out, installation and fixing of the guide profiles to the floor with dowels. Using a perforator, holes are made (approximately 50-60 mm deep and 5-6 mm in diameter) through the profile in the supporting base.

If the base is wooden, then for fastening it is necessary to use screws with large threads, specially designed for woodworking. At the top, the guide profiles are assembled without fastening, then leveled with a level and fixed with dowel-nails. The fastening step of the metal guide profiles of the frames must be at least three fasteners per profile. Using a level, it is necessary to install a rack profile for partitions with a step of 500-600 mm.

Do not forget that the rack profile must enter at least 20 mm into the guide on the ceiling. It should also be taken into account that in the room the height of the rack profile should be 10 mm less than the height of the room itself.

Door frames should be installed immediately during the installation of the plasterboard partition frame. To do this, it is necessary to fix an auxiliary rack support profile on both sides of the door frame. On such structures, it is possible to install window and door frames made of any material: aluminum, wood, cermet, plastic. Door frames are fixed to the rack vertical profile without the use of auxiliary means that increase rigidity, if the height of the room is not more than 2.6 m and the width of the door is not more than 0.9 m.

If the mass of the door leaf with an opening is more than 25 kg, it is necessary to strengthen the rack profile. Usually this is done by pressing a wooden beam into a rack profile for partitions and fixing it with self-tapping screws.

The most common and practical types of interior partitions are listed above. What material to use, you choose!

Many modern apartments do not have a layout, and therefore the owners independently divide the total area into rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The easiest, fastest and most affordable way to create interior partitions are drywall constructions. Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them by hand.

Drywall is a universal building material that is used both for finishing the premises and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating an apartment. They can only compete with him in terms of characteristics: or

Benefits of using drywall if it is necessary to create an interior partition with a door, they will be as follows:

• it's a lightweight material, so the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
• all work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
• drywall cost low, as well as the materials needed to create the frame and surface finish ;
• material is easy to cut, it bends easily, so even arched structures are created with its help;
• installation of the frame and sheets is carried out simply and quickly;
• finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
• drywall sheets are made from natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

There are different types of drywall, so before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

1. ordinary, most often gray, used in rooms where humidity is not more than 70%;
2. moisture resistant, has a green or blue color and is used in those rooms where there is constantly high humidity;
3. refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, fiberglass and other additives are present in its composition, it is red or gray;
4. fire resistant moisture resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

The thickness of the ordinary sheet is 12.5mm, and to create arches, sheets with a thickness of 6.5 mm are used, to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Interior partition device

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. For marking use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are applied on the floor and on the ceiling.

It is much easier to work with a laser level, but buying it just to create a drywall wall is not practical.

Given the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor for the entire length of the partition, but leaves room for a doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm more than its width, so that it is possible to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account., if it is sheathed in one sheet, then 2.5 cm is added to the thickness of the frame, and if the GKL is laid in two layers, then 5 cm is added.

To carry out the said work, you will need the following tools:

• building level;
• measuring instruments;
• cord and plumb line, or as their replacement - a laser level;
• corner;
• electric drill;
• metal scissors or electric jigsaw;
• pencil;
• stationery knife;
• putty knife;
• container for plaster.

After marking, we cut off the profile of the required length, glue the rear walls with sealing tape.

Profile mounting

Work begins with laying and fixing the guide profile on the floor, after which it is installed around the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fixed using self-tapping screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now, using the rack profile form a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts at the top and bottom is the same. The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to lay wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and fix them with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the remaining rack profiles are mounted. if you have GKL of standard width, then the distance between them is 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts it is necessary to fix horizontal jumpers, which are cut out from the same profile.

A wooden block is also installed and fixed in the transverse profile located above the doorway, it should easily enter into it so as not to break the shape, using a square make sure the angles are 90 degrees.

The remaining transverse profiles are attached to the racks, for this special short self-tapping screws are used.

After the frame is created, you will see that its construction is quite rigid and durable, start wiring. There are holes in the rack profiles through which it will be convenient to thread the wires.

The wiring is laid in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.

Drywall fixing

At home you can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or rail. To do this, a ruler is applied to the sheet, a cut is made several times along the line, the deeper it is, the better, and then the GKL is carefully broken and the required size is obtained.

To simplify finishing work, at the place of the cut, a chamfer is made at an angle of about 45 degrees, for this use a planer or a knife.

During the calculations, it is necessary to foresee in advance the places where it is planned to mount hanging furniture or equipment.

Here, additional profiles reinforced with wooden bars are necessarily installed, it all depends on the weight of the hinged structures.

Left attach the sheet to the racks, and fix it, this is done with the help of self-tapping screws, they are installed in increments of 20 cm and slightly recessed in the sheet.

If you forgot to chamfer the sheets before installing them, then this is done with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing work

The installation of the frame and plasterboard is only the beginning of the creation of a plasterboard partition. At the next stage all seams are sealed. To do this, use a sickle tape and putty. Also puttying of the entire surface of the wall is carried out.

After the base has dried, proceed to leveling the surface. The wall is covered with a primer, which will allow the plaster to better fix and provide additional protection to the GKL. Leveling is carried out with a wide spatula and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening is performed installation of the door frame, do it with wedges, self-tapping screws and mounting foam. First, the frame is set with wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to install the door leaf.

Checking the correctness of the work and the door should open and close easily. If everything is fine, then the remaining gaps are filled with mounting foam.

At this time, the door is in the closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

The foam is cut off after it has completely solidified, if the canvas was removed, then it is hung up only a day after the installation of the box.

Finishing

At the last stage of creating a plasterboard wall, its finishing is carried out, for this it is usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is sheathed with platbands, which help hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave a hollow partition, it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is sheathed with drywall, and only then is it sheathed on the other side.

If it is planned to install utilities or a sliding door in such a wall, then in the place where they are located, the insulation is not laid.

To create soundproofing, use mineral wool or isover. From below, when installing the sheet, a small gap must be left, so stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to independently create a drywall wall with a doorway, the following expert advice should be followed:

1. During the installation of partitions, in the room must be at least 10 degrees.
2. You need to calculate the required number of guides and rack metal profiles, only then purchase them. You can cut them to the required size with a jigsaw or scissors for metal.
3. Sheets are stacked tightly to each other.
4. To create holes for sockets, you must use special nozzles on the drill.
5. At the joints of the sheets, be sure to use a sickle and close up the heads of the self-tapping screws well with putty, after which they putty the entire wall.
6. As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, facing panels and others.

Conclusion

Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of drywall partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology of performing work, the advice of specialists and having prepared the necessary tools, feel free to proceed with the implementation of these works.

Useful video

How to make a drywall partition with your own hands, step by step instructions on the video:

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Although drywall partitions have become widely known relatively recently, today many builders, as well as owners of offices and even residential apartments, cannot imagine their lives without them. Their installation is quite simple, easy and cheap, but at the same time they make it easy to zone the room. Therefore, it will be useful for many people to learn more about them - perhaps it is the use of drywall partitions that will be a good solution for them.

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Advantages of drywall partitions

These designs have quite a few important advantages to keep in mind. Here are just the most obvious and important:

1. Excellent soundproofing. It is enough to install a metal frame with one layer of drywall with a thickness of 12 millimeters to achieve sound absorption up to 47 dB. If you sew a double layer of material on the frame, this figure will increase to 45 dB;
2. The material is extremely light weight. Unlike brick and concrete partitions, plasterboard partitions are quite light (a sheet of 1 square meter weighs from 25 to 50 kg, depending on thickness), which allows you not to create a significant load on the supporting structure;
3. Drywall has a flat surface, which is perfect for covering with any finishing material - from paint and wallpaper to decorative stone slabs;
4. Modern drywall is a non-combustible material, which increases the safety of its use;
5. The relatively large porosity allows it to be classified as a "breathable" material. That is, it not only allows steam to pass through, but also absorbs excess moisture from the air, and if necessary gives it away, making the microclimate in the room more stable;
6. Ease of installation is even more important. Any room can be transformed beyond recognition in a matter of hours. And it is far from always necessary to resort to the help of specialists, spending extra money. You can build drywall partitions with your own hands - it is enough to have the simplest tools and at least basic skills in the field of construction. At the same time, the amount of construction debris during work is minimal.

As you can see, the advantages of such partitions are very numerous. But it is equally important to have an idea about the shortcomings, so that later you do not regret an unsuccessful choice.

Disadvantages of drywall partitions

Alas, like any other building material, drywall has certain disadvantages. First of all, it is fragility. Unlike wooden and especially brick walls, plasterboard walls are easily damaged.

Although drywall is a "breathable" material, it does not tolerate high humidity, and even more so direct contact with water. That is, if the neighbors from above flood you, and the water gets on the drywall partitions, the latter will be hopelessly damaged - you will have to change them.

It is undesirable to hang shelves and cabinets on such partitions - they will become a serious additional load on the metal profile, and it may simply not withstand it.

This is where the cons of this material end. Yes, they are much less than the pros. That is why the installation of drywall partitions is such a popular service today.

How to choose a material?

If you decide to install drywall partitions in your apartment or house with your own hands, you will need: a profile, drywall, self-tapping screws. At first glance, this all sounds pretty simple. But, having come to the hardware store, many people who do not work in the construction industry are lost. Therefore, it will be useful to talk about these materials in more detail.

Types and purpose of metal profiles

Profiles can differ in functional purpose and, accordingly, in section:

• guide profile. Its cross section resembles a channel. It is used as a basis if you need to fix the rack profile. Its shelves are 40 mm wide. The back can have a width of 50 to 100 millimeters. The marking mentions all the necessary parameters. For example, if you see a material marked PN 40-75, then this is a guide profile with a 75 mm long back and a 40 mm shelf;
• Rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence at the ends of the shelves of special bends inward. In addition, its width is slightly larger - 50 millimeters. May be marked as PS 50-75. But it should be remembered that usually the back has a smaller width - instead of the indicated 50 mm, no more than 48.5.
• ceiling profile. It is used to create a ceiling frame with subsequent plasterboard sheathing;
• Angle profile. Needed to create smooth and attractive outer corners. Able to protect soft plasterboard corners from any mechanical damage;
• There is also an arched profile. It is used to create arched openings. The back and shelf of the profile are divided into equal sections, this allows you to easily bend it, giving it almost any shape;
• The beacon profile is used if you need to level the walls to a predetermined level. The profile is used as a stop that allows you to set the desired level for the rule.

All profiles have different lengths - from 2750 to 6000 millimeters, which allows you to choose the right one for any job.

It is also worth noting that the profile can vary significantly in the thickness of the metal used. Typically, the thickness ranges from 0.4 to 0.55 millimeters. Of course, if the thickness is greater, then the profile has greater strength, but it costs more and weighs more. Therefore, it is worthwhile to approach his choice as carefully as possible in order to choose the one that is suitable for the manufacture of drywall partitions with your own hands.

Drywall can also vary in a number of ways. For example, the thickness of the sheets may be from 6 to 15 millimeters. Thin sheets are suitable to form complex surfaces and arches. And in order to make partitions, the minimum thickness must be at least 12.5 millimeters. Otherwise, the sheets may not withstand possible mechanical loads.

Drywall is also usually divided into several groups:

• Standard drywall. Used to finish any surface. Gray color with blue markings;
• Moisture resistant drywall. Suitable for rooms with high humidity. Green color with blue markings;
• Fire resistant drywall. It is used in ventilation shafts, electrical panels, attics. Grey, with red markings;
• Fire-resistant and moisture-resistant drywall. Green, with red markings.

Of course, when choosing the right material, you need to pay attention not only to the thickness of the sheets, but also to the purpose of the drywall in order to make the right choice. Based on the thickness of the sheets, you should also choose the length of the screws. They must securely fix the drywall on the profile, but do not stick out after screwing.

Work progress

List of tools needed to perform the work

To install a drywall partition with your own hands, you need to use not so many tools: a building level, a clerical knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, metal scissors, a tape measure of 5-7 meters, a plumb line and a pencil.

Some professionals prefer to use the more convenient laser self-levelling level. Indeed, with its help you can quickly complete a significant amount of work. But this is a rather expensive tool, so in most cases you can get by with the simplest hydraulic level.

If you don’t have a screwdriver or an electric drill at hand, you can get by with a screwdriver. Yes, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to do all the work manually. But, nevertheless, it is quite real.

When all the tools are assembled, and the necessary materials are purchased, you can get to work. And for many people doing this work for the first time, it will not be superfluous to know how to install drywall partitions with their own hands. The step by step guide below will help you with this.

How to install a guide profile

The first stage of work is the installation of a guide profile. On the floor it is necessary to mark (preferably with chalk, as it is easily erased) a line. A new partition will be installed along it. We install a guide profile in the marked place.

If work is carried out in a room with wooden floors, the profile is simply fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult if you have to work with concrete floors. Holes are pre-drilled in them, into which dowels are installed. The distance between the screws should not exceed 30 centimeters for reliable fixation.

The next step is fixing the profile on the walls. To do this, the first profile is used as a place for the lower attachment. Using a plumb line, we monitor the strictly vertical location of the profile. It mounts to the wall just like it mounts to the floor. If the wall is made of silicate blocks or aerated concrete, it is better to use special dowel-nails. They also need to be installed at intervals of no more than 30 centimeters.

At the joints, the profiles are interconnected using short (no more than 15 millimeters) self-tapping screws.

In the same way, you need to install a ceiling profile, thereby closing the contour for a future plasterboard partition.

Installing a vertical profile

The device of a deaf partition that does not provide for a doorway is simple. Vertical profiles are installed on guides, and you need to install from the wall. Places for mounting the profile should be marked in advance. It is necessary to determine the distance between them individually - it depends on how wide the drywall sheets are. On one sheet you need to install three racks - along the edges and in the center. For example, if a sheet with a width of 120 centimeters is installed, the racks are installed with a gap of 60 centimeters.

Before you start connecting profiles, you need to learn how to do it correctly. First, you should fix the screws closer to the back, and only then - closer to the edge. In this case, the risk of deformation of the shelf is eliminated. This means that the quality of the profile and its bearing capacity will not suffer.

To increase the rigidity of the structure, additional sections of the profile are installed between the vertical posts. Their length should correspond to the distance between the installed profile - during installation, it is advisable to use short self-tapping screws that can securely fasten the entire structure.

The minimum distance between the horizontal profile is 40 centimeters. In general, it depends on the length of the sheets. It is necessary to ensure that their edges lie in the middle of the profile. If it is planned to hang light shelves or a hanger on a plasterboard partition, in pre-marked places the profile is strengthened with wood bars - it is on them that the load will fall.

If you need a regular interior partition, then you can use whole sheets of drywall. Where this is not possible, the sheets will have to be cut with a clerical knife. How to do it neatly? You just need to lay the ruler and draw the knife several times in one place, gradually deepening the incision. Of course, this should be done carefully by measuring and marking everything so as not to spoil the building materials.

When fastening drywall to a profile, a gap should be provided between the floor and the bottom edge of the sheet. The gap should not be too large - about 5 millimeters.

After that, the sheet is attached to the vertical and guide racks. The optimal distance between the screws is 15-20 centimeters. In this case, it is desirable to sink the caps of the self-tapping screws into the sheet by 1 millimeter. When the sheet is fixed, its horizontalness can be checked with a level.

As you can see, the technology of installing drywall partitions is not fraught with anything complicated.
When construction is completed, paint or wallpaper is applied to the surface, as provided for by the design project of a particular room.

The installation process will be a little more complicated if you are interested in a partition with a door.

In this case, vertical profiles should not be installed from the wall, but from the marked opening. When mounting the guide profiles, a suitable gap must also be provided. The installation of the rack profile is carried out so that the width of the doorway is the same in the lower and upper parts.

The main thing to remember here is that both the door and the door frame should fit in the doorway. Otherwise, you will have to redo a large amount of work later.

To increase the strength of the opening, a wooden block is inserted into the profile. To fix it, it is better to use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 35 millimeters.

When the profile around the doorway has taken on a finished look, you can continue to install the rest of the profile, starting from it and moving towards the walls.

That's all. If you master the theory presented in the article, you will surely be able to install drywall partitions with your own hands without any problems.

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In the article we will study the device of drywall partitions and explore the process of their construction step by step. In addition, we are interested in the pros and cons of plasterboard structures inside an apartment or a private house.

Light partitions with changes in layout are almost always made of drywall. How justified is the use of this material - we will try to find out.

Drywall or alternatives

Let's first give an assessment of drywall as a material for interior partitions in a residential area. Perhaps it really is worth looking for alternatives?

Advantages

• High construction speed. Thanks to the solid size of the drywall sheet, partitions are built in just a couple of days.
• Minimization of wet finishing processes. You will not have to work with cement mortar at all; gypsum plaster does not leave so much dirt in the house.

However: the dust that is inevitable when cutting drywall is clogged into all corners of the apartment. Doors and windows should be kept closed during work. In addition, all consumer electronics (primarily computers and laptops with their active cooling systems) are completely de-energized and covered with any cloth or, better, polyethylene.

• Fire resistant material. Gypsum, which makes up most of its volume, does not burn and has poor thermal conductivity.
• Soundproofing it will be good even without laying insulation in the partitions.
• The cavities inside the walls accommodate electrical wiring and water distribution. Of course, the frame should be initially mounted based on the laying of communications.
• light weight means minimizing the load on the floors.

In the case of a private house with wooden floors, the mass of the partition is an important factor.

• Finally, and not least, The material does not emit any volatile harmful substances into the atmosphere.

Flaws

Drywall has two serious drawbacks:

1. Low mechanical strength. Breaking through a single sheet of drywall is easy, just leaning on it with all your weight or hitting it with a fairly massive object.
2. Low resistance to water. Even moisture-resistant drywall will become unusable with prolonged contact with it.

In addition, a drywall wall requires a fine finish - albeit not too laborious.

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Alternatives

And what, in fact, can be used instead of drywall?

• Laminated chipboard used to finish the bottom of the walls. Along with a decent appearance, it provides much greater strength: it is very difficult to accidentally damage such a wall.
• Plywood- even more reliable material. On a wall of sufficiently thick plywood, you can safely hang cabinets, including rather massive ones; it is also quickly mounted on the frame and is quite easy to process. However, its price, with a thickness comparable to drywall, is about twice as much.
• Finally, for internal partitions it is easy to use MDF wall panels. The obvious minus is the mechanical strength as low as that of drywall. In addition, they will cost about the same amount as 10 mm plywood of the same area.

However, we will get a ready-made wall that does not need painting and finishing.

Mounting diagram

How is a drywall partition made?

The most popular drywall partition device involves the vertical installation of solid sheets. The frame is made vertical, from CW rack profiles, which are fixed to the UW guide profiles passing along the floor and ceiling.

Horizontal frame elements, in addition to guides, are used to frame openings and arches. The guides are attached to the floors with dowel-nails or anchors. As a damper, designed to dampen shock vibrations, a sound-absorbing tape made of polyurethane foam or foam rubber is used.

The rules for installing drywall are common to all structures from it:

• Adjacent edges of adjacent sheets must be attached to one profile.
• Between the sheets there are gaps of 3-5 millimeters for putty.
• The seams are reinforced with glass mesh during the plastering process and/or bandaged with paper tape.
• The attachment points of the frame to the ceiling should be located at a distance of no more than a meter. Optimal - 60 cm. In addition, each individual structural element must be fastened with at least three dowels or anchors.
• If it is necessary to splice the profiles to a greater length, they are fastened with at least three self-tapping screws.
• The distance between the standing profiles should be no more than 60 centimeters.

Tip: it is better to install risers with a gap of exactly 40 centimeters along the axes. The rigidity of the structure will be greater. In addition, the width of the sheet will be a multiple of the distance between the risers, and the edges of adjacent sheets will fall on one profile without additional adjustment.

Reinforced and wide partitions

If necessary, in a partition with greater mechanical strength, fire resistance or soundproofing qualities, if communications are located inside it, occupying a large space, a complicated arrangement of a plasterboard partition is possible.

1. One row of risers can be sheathed with drywall in two layers. Such a scheme, among other things, avoids the appearance of cracks at the joints of the sheets. An overlap is required between the layers: the joints are attached to different profiles.
2. If inside the partition it is necessary to place risers of water supply or kitchen (diameter 40-50 millimeters) sewerage, it can be built frame from two rows of standing profiles sewn together end-to-end with self-tapping screws.
3. Finally, if a 90 or 110 mm sewer riser is located inside the partition, two rows of vertical profiles are located at a distance from each other. You can connect them together not only with segments of the same profile, but also with strips of drywall.

Work order

What is the technology for installing drywall partitions with your own hands?

frame

1. The axis of the partition is marked on the floor. It is easier to do this with a chopping cord. Then the markup is transferred to adjacent walls and ceiling. The relative position of the markup is checked by level and plumb.
2. UW profiles with installed or glued sound insulation tape are fixed to the ceiling and floor. As already mentioned, the optimal fastening step is 60 centimeters.
3. Rack profiles CW are marked and cut in place. For secure fastening, they must protrude into the UW ceiling profile by at least two centimeters. Fastening - with metal screws ("fleas") on both sides of each profile. The wall riser is attached to the wall in increments of no more than a meter with the same dowels or anchors; soundproofing tape is also laid under it.
4. The opening MUST be edged with a profile around the perimeter. If it is planned to install a door, its box is exposed and attached to the profile immediately after the installation of the frame, before plasterboard sheathing.

Fastening the rack profile to the guide - strictly on both sides.

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sheathing

Sheets, if necessary, trimming are marked on the floor or a wide table. The use of a square to control right angles is mandatory.

Please note: one of the advantages of drywall is in fairly large trimming tolerances. Even a three-centimeter gap is easy to putty using a reinforcing mesh. Therefore, do not be afraid to make a mistake with the size - nothing fatal will happen.

How to cut drywall?

1. Along the cut line, the sheet is cut with a sharp knife and broken. Then the cardboard is cut off from the second side.
2. The jigsaw produces more dust and often a not so smooth cut line. However, if breaking the sheet is scary, it is quite possible to saw it off.
3. Finally, you can cut with a regular hand saw. Both the gypsum core and the cardboard are VERY easy to cut.

Curvilinear cutting lines are made with a narrow hand saw or electric jigsaw. Holes for sockets are selected, as a rule, the same in a fairly large number. For them, it is better to purchase a crown of the appropriate diameter.

After trimming, the edges are processed with a flat or rounded (depending on the shape of the cut line) rasp. The edge is made straight and even; on the edges of the sheets intended for joining, a chamfer is removed.

On long straight sections, it is more convenient to chamfer with a planer - manual or electric.

How to bend a drywall sheet when making an arch or other curved surface?

1. Roll with a needle roller that side of the sheet that will shrink when bent, and wet it several times until the gypsum is completely saturated with water. Then dry on a template or directly at the final installation site.
2. Make frequent transverse cuts on the outside of the sheet and fix it on the profile. The cuts are leveled when the surface is puttyed.

Sheets are screwed to EACH profile with a step of 25 centimeters. On curved surfaces, the step is reduced to 15 cm; with a two-layer sheathing, it is permissible to fasten the first layer in increments of 75 cm. The length of the self-tapping screws is selected so that they enter the profile by at least a centimeter.

After sheathing the partition, on one side, if necessary, a heater is laid - polystyrene foam or basalt wool.

After the fastening is completed, all hats should be recessed into the drywall by about a millimeter: they will have to be hidden with putty.

Seam sealing

There are two main ways to putty the seams so that after a couple of years cracks do not appear in their place.

1. The seam is glued with a sickle - a fiberglass reinforcing tape, then puttied with gypsum putty directly through it.
2. The seam is puttied without reinforcement; after drying, the putty is ground with a mesh on a grater and bandaged with paper tape. The tape is glued to PVA glue or its aqueous solution and pulled with a spatula; excess glue is removed with a sponge.

With a two-layer sheathing, it is theoretically possible to do without reinforcement or banding. In practice… The costs are low; at the same time, you reliably protect the wall from the appearance of cracks in case of any deformation. Why not?

At the same stage, self-tapping screws are putty. There are no special tricks here: puttying twice (since gypsum shrinks slightly during drying), then grinding.