Filling the joints between tiles is the final stage of the installation of tiles. But, despite the seeming simplicity of the work, you need to know how to properly use the grout mixture. Otherwise, you risk not getting the result you expected. A well-made seam can help mask wall defects or mistakes made during installation. And uneven grout will ruin even an impeccable tiled panel.
Cement-sand mortars are not suitable for grouting in the bathroom.
Before filling the space between the tiles, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory steps. The tile adhesive must dry completely. Accordingly, it is better not to start grouting earlier than 1-3 days after installation is completed. Thoroughly clean the entire surface of dust and dirt, remove small debris from the seams with an old toothbrush. Do not forget to remove the spacer crosses that were used when laying the tiles.
Some experts say that you can directly on top of plastic crosses. But keep in mind that the grout layer in such places will be much thinner, so the color of the seam may differ from the main one. When using white putty, this nuance can be ignored. But if you prefer a colored mixture, then it is wiser to remove the separators.
Unglazed tiles must be dampened before starting work. Moreover, not only the outer surface is wetted, but also the sidewalls of each panel. Such a measure will not allow the tile to absorb excess liquid. Usually, a garden sprayer or a spray gun is used for this, with the help of which they take care of indoor plants. Wet the surface carefully, observing the measure. Excessive moisture can cause the frayed seam to warp and crack. Therefore, make sure that the work surface is damp, but the water should not drain and form puddles.
When working with glazed material, pre-moistening is not required.
Choice of grout
Only a competent choice of grout can guarantee the impeccable appearance of the tile joint.
At the moment, 2 types of compositions are most often used. These are solutions based on epoxy resin or cement.
When choosing grout materials, pay attention to the fact that the mixture should be intended specifically for tiles. Inexperienced finishers sometimes confuse grout with sealing compounds made using elastomers. Such silicone putties are sometimes used to process tile joints. But instead of grouting, you should not buy them.
Grouts, the main component of which is cement, are sold in the form of dry and ready-made mixtures. The cost of the second type of putty is usually much higher. And since preparing the composition with your own hands does not require special knowledge and skills, it is wiser to buy the powder. To dilute it, you may need liquid latex, so first carefully read the instructions on the packaging of the material.
Latex mixtures make the seams between the tiles waterproof and cushion the entire cladding when it contracts or expands (for example, during a sudden change in room temperature). Solutions made on water do not have such abilities.
Usually the composition of the grout differs only in additives. Consult with the seller in order to choose the right mixture.
Grouts made using epoxy resin are usually not used in the decoration of apartments and residential buildings. Seams filled with such material are characterized by increased impact resistance and resistance to aggressive substances. But in an ordinary bathroom or kitchen, such precautions are not required. In addition, epoxy mixtures are much more expensive than their cement-based counterparts. It must be remembered that epoxy putties are viscous, so working with them requires a certain skill. If the width of the tile joint is less than 5-7 mm and the depth is 10-12 mm, then such compositions are not suitable. A viscous mixture simply will not penetrate such a narrow space.
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Preparation for work
Color options for grouting.
The choice of joint width depends on the chosen design of the appearance of the cladding. But it must be borne in mind that the greater the distance between the panels, the brighter the seam looks. Usually, experts recommend making the inter-tile space no wider than 3-6 mm. If you are using irregularly shaped tiles imitating, for example, pebbles or natural stone, then try to arrange the elements so that the empty space between them does not exceed 10-12 mm. Otherwise, the surface will look messy.
In addition, it must be borne in mind that in wide joints, the grout may become cracked after drying. Adding coarse-grained sand to the grout mixture will help to avoid such a problem. But even such a measure does not guarantee you the reliability of the seam.
Making too narrow a distance between the panels is also unacceptable. Too thin a seam is difficult to fill with grout completely. Moisture will penetrate under the tile, which can deform and even destroy the entire cladding panel. The grout can be made more liquid, and then it will more effectively fill the seam. But the more moisture in the grout, the higher the risk of cracking. And, accordingly, the grout seam will be unreliable.
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Preparation of grout
To prepare the solution, it is best to use a drill with a special nozzle.
The grout is usually prepared with water or latex grout. Polymer mixtures must be diluted only with water. But in any case, the liquid must be added so much that the grout becomes plastic, homogeneous and easily distributed over the surface with a spatula. It is best to strictly follow the instructions on the package. If you add too much liquid, the grout will not have strength.
The container for mixing the solution must be clean. If you use water to dilute the mixture, then give preference to one in which there are no suspensions and small debris.
Mix the grout by adding the mixture to the liquid, and not vice versa. First, take about ¾ of the required volume of water. Then the dry mixture is poured in, constantly stirring the composition so that lumps do not form in it, and the remaining water is poured in.
Even if you follow the instructions step by step, remember that many external factors can affect the consistency of the solution: room temperature, humidity, the presence of coloring pigments in the mixture, and the like. In this case, the proportions of the liquid and the grout itself may vary. But if a dry polymer is included in the grout, then it is wiser to strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
If you need to make several portions of the solution, then make sure that the proportions of the grout components are exactly the same everywhere. When buying multiple packs of grout, make sure that the serial numbers on them match. When preparing the mixture, take a little of the powder from each bag. Otherwise, the final color of the seams may differ from each other.
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Mixing grout
When preparing grout for laying tiles in a residential (small) room, it makes no sense to use a special mixer or a nozzle on a drill. Moreover, mixing grout with power tools can only damage its properties. If the mixture is stirred too vigorously, air bubbles will form in the solution, which will weaken the seam. If you use a mixer, then make sure that its blades do not rotate too fast (it is better to choose the minimum speed). But it is easier to prepare the grout with an ordinary fork.
After the mixture has become homogeneous and the lumps have disappeared, leave the mixture to swell for 10-15 minutes. Then mix the solution again, making sure that no lumps remain in it.
For further work, you will need the following tools:
- a protective mask or construction respirator (its presence is mandatory when working with mixtures containing cement);
- tight, preferably rubber, gloves;
- construction goggles;
- wooden lath for straightening the seam;
- trowel;
- rubber spatula (trowel);
- household foam sponge;
- clean rags (napkins).
When everything you need is prepared, you can start grouting the seams.
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Filling tile joints
To fill the joints between the floor tiles, the mortar is simply laid out on the cladding and leveled with a special rubber spatula.
To perform work on a vertical wall, you will need a trowel. The tool must be held at an angle of approximately 300 with respect to the surface. The grout is applied to the cladding diagonally.
At the same time, an area of \u200b\u200bnot more than 1-1.5 m² is processed. If you work with a larger surface, then the solution may "grab" before you carefully level it. In addition, excess grout must be removed immediately. It is quite difficult to wipe off the dried mixture from the surface of the tile.
After applying the mixture to the wall, the entire surface is smoothed with a rubber float. Try not just to distribute the solution along the seams, but rub it in, pressing the spatula with force so that the grout fills the entire space between the tiles. Remember that the stronger the resistance of the mixture, the denser the inter-tile space is filled. So, the seam will be more reliable and durable. Make sure that all the corners and the slightest voids left after installing the tile on the wall are filled with the mixture.
Mosaic tiles. Step 1.
If you are working with an expensive coating, such as author's ceramics, then it is wiser to use a trowel bag. It looks like a confectionery tool with which cakes are decorated with cream. At the end of a dense package, an elongated plastic tip with a hole is attached through which the grout is squeezed into the seam. Its width must be chosen so that it freely enters the inter-tile space, but the “sausage” of putty that is squeezed out of it should not be too narrow. In one pass, it is necessary to completely fill the entire seam.
Grout with a bag start from the left corner of the wall. First, all seams are filled horizontally. The tip of the tool is placed in the space between the tiles and gradually, as the joint is filled with mortar, they move towards the opposite wall. After all the voids are filled, proceed to the grouting of vertical joints.
Whatever tool you use, always apply a little more grout into the space between the tiles than seems necessary. After the composition dries a little (after 2-3 minutes after application), tamp it with a wooden lath or toothbrush handle. Then give the solution the opportunity to "stand up" and after about half an hour remove the remnants of the grout.
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Formation of a tile joint
Mosaic tiles. Step 2
When the main grouting work is completed, excess mortar must be removed from the tile. To do this, you can use a rubber grater. It is held at an angle of 90° to the surface of the cladding. The tool is carried out diagonally to the seams. If you do not follow this rule, then the edge of the grater can get into the inter-tile space and damage the laid mortar. Then you will have to add the mixture to the seam and wipe the surface again. Remove any remaining mixture with a clean cloth.
Wet cleaning of the finished cladding should be started only after the grout is completely dry. It usually doesn't take more than half an hour. The difference between the drying time of the grout depends not only on the composition of the solution, but also on the temperature and humidity of the air in the room. But in any case, before washing the lining, it is necessary to check whether the seam is dry. Sometimes it happens that the grout is covered with a fairly dense crust on top, and inside the solution remains wet and too liquid.
Take a dampened sponge and wipe a small area with it. The grout mixture must retain its elasticity and plasticity. If you miss this moment, then the dried putty will have to be removed from the tile using special tools. At the same time, there is a high risk of damaging not only the seams, but also the decorative coating of the tile. The solution should not stick to the sponge and deform when gently touched. If this happens, then you should wait a bit until the grout seizes.
If the composition still managed to dry out, then you can use a special grater with an abrasive coating. Unlike its smooth counterparts, it will not leave scratches on the tile and will effectively remove adhering grout.
After cleaning the tile from dried residues of the solution, wipe the entire surface with a well-wrung sponge or soft cloth. Make sure that excess moisture does not accumulate in the inter-tile space.
The modern market of building and finishing materials pleases with a variety of choices, however, the undoubted leaders in this area have been determined for a long time. Ceramic tiles are one of the best time-tested facing materials. The tiled surface is practical and lasts a long time, and the presence of a material with an unlimited color palette allows you to realize the most sophisticated design projects. In addition, the popularity of tiles is also explained by the fact that, in principle, you can tile the walls yourself, and the necessary recommendations can be easily found on the global network. For example, we want to offer you the most useful information on how to grout tile joints.
Grout for tile joints - the offer of the modern market
After laying ceramic tiles, the final touch is grouting; without this procedure, finishing the walls and floors with tiles cannot be considered complete. In addition to practical significance, the seam also has a decorative feature - it complements the overall pattern on the wall or floor. Moreover, manufacturers produce many color additives.
Two types of grouts: based on cement or epoxy resin
Cement based grout Supplied as a dry mix, which is brought to working condition by dilution with water or liquid latex. Although ready-made grouts can also be found in the retail network, their price is an order of magnitude higher. Cement grout for tile joints in the vast majority of cases is made on the basis of Portland cement, and the special additives that make up the composition are the distinguishing components. All grouts of this type are divided into three groups:
- based on industrial Portland cement;
- based on dry hardener;
- based on a mixture of latex with Portland cement.
Interesting! Portland cement is a special type of cement that got its name because it was very similar in color to building stone, which was mined on the English island of Portland.
Epoxy grout includes epoxy resin and hardener, and gives the seams increased impact resistance and resistance to various chemical influences. Such a grout is characterized by a high cost and, as a rule, is used in the arrangement of premises for industrial or commercial purposes.
In addition, epoxy grout is characterized by excessive viscosity, so only a specialist can successfully work with it. Moreover, there are certain restrictions on its use: the thickness of the tile is from 12 mm, and the minimum joint width is 6 mm. Otherwise, such grout will simply not be able to properly penetrate into narrower seams.
Attention! To avoid serious problems when doing the work yourself, carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. This is the only way you can determine which tile grout is best for your particular situation.
Is it necessary to use sealant?
Grouting tile joints - a video instruction of the process, by the way, is located at the end of this article, it also involves processing joints using a sealant. It will protect the surface of the tile from excessive absorption of moisture, as well as protect it and the seams from stains. If the surface is finished with unglazed tiles, then it is completely covered with liquid sealant. Such a specific substance has acrylic, varnish or silicone in its composition. Therefore, it is necessary to choose it based on the type of tile and grout.
Between tiles distance
By and large, the width of the grout joint depends solely on personal preferences. Many people prefer narrow seams, which visually seem to suppress the tile. If the surface is made of elements with a size of 10-30 cm, then the most optimal will be a seam of the order of 3 mm. Sometimes tiles of 60 cm in size are also laid according to this scheme. If the tiles are irregular in shape, it is advisable to make a wider seam, but it should not be more than 12 mm.
Attention! The wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack. To seal it, it is necessary to apply a grout with the addition of sand, but this may not always ensure a seam from deformation.
On the other hand, you should not make the grout too narrow, as this will greatly complicate the grouting process, and as a result, they may turn out to be leaky, that is, water will seep under the tile. According to professional tilers, the joints should be wide enough so that they can be filled without problems with any of the selected grouts.
Only in this case, they will become waterproof and will act as a kind of shock absorbers in the process of compression or expansion of the tile. If the seam has a negligibly small width, then it will not have such parameters.
Tools and auxiliary materials
- Respirator (working with cement-based grout).
- Protective glasses.
- Rubber gloves.
- Roller, rubber spatula or scraper with a rubber nozzle.
- Bucket.
- Sponge.
- Plywood.
- Jointing, a wooden stick sharpened at one end or a toothbrush.
- A piece of clean cloth.
- A small paint brush or paint roller.
Brief plan
- The grout is mixed.
- The solution is aged to the required level of water absorption.
- The grout is mixed very thoroughly again.
- The solution is distributed.
- Excess is cleared.
Solution preparation
As a rule, dry grout is mixed with either water or latex liquid additives that replace water.
Note! Dry polymer grouts can only be mixed with water.
When using any type of liquid, it is necessary to add only such an amount that will be sufficient to prepare a plastic and easily spread mixture. This aspect is extremely important, since excess moisture can provoke a weakening of the grout. To do everything right, the solution must be mixed strictly according to the proportions indicated on the grout packaging. The container in which the solution will be mixed must be dry and clean.
When mixing the grout, the dry ingredient is added to the liquid. Moreover, initially about ¾ of the norm of the liquid indicated in the recipe is used. After all dry components are introduced into the solution in small portions, the remaining liquid is added, while not forgetting to control the consistency of the mixture.
Important! The grout preparation process can be influenced by such external factors as the temperature regime in the room, relative humidity, and also the component composition, for example, the presence of a dye.
It is recommended to use a trowel or an electric stirrer to mix the solution. If preference is given to the "automation" of this process, then the agitator must be completely immersed in the solution during operation, so that air will not enter it. After all, air bubbles can also weaken the grout solution. It is for this reason that the speed of the blade revolutions should not exceed 300 rpm. At the end of the mixing procedure, the solution must be left alone for 8-10 minutes, and then it can already be safely used for its intended purpose.
Grouting ceramic tiles - direct execution
Grouting ceramic tiles begins with laying the mortar on the surface of the tiles. For proper distribution, it is best to use a special trowel. It is held at an angle of 30 0 relative to the surface of the tile and is applied diagonally. It is necessary to go over the treated area with a grater 2-3 times, and not just covering the distance between the tiles, but trying to rub the solution into the seam with an effort to completely fill it. Naturally, the greater the resistance, the greater the filling density of the seam, and, accordingly, the stronger it will be. The main idea of this work is that all the voids and corners around the tile, remaining after its laying, should be filled as much as possible. When applying the grout, the liquid will leave it, and the seam will be filled with particles of cement and sand. Thus, after hardening in the seam, a solid body will be obtained.
It is not necessary to grout the entire surface at the same time. The best option would be to distribute the solution in a small area, about 1-2 m. In the process, it will be found out how quickly the grout sets and whether there is a need for frequent stops associated with cleaning the surface. In some cases, it is possible to wipe 9-10 square meters. m, and then deal with the cleaning of the working area. If the solution sets quickly, then only a small area is overwritten.
What is a grout bag?
If the tiled surface has such a structure that its cleaning process requires considerable effort, for example, imitation of old brickwork, then it is recommended to use a special grout bag. This "tool" visually resembles a pastry bag, with which housewives decorate cakes. A tip is attached to the end of the bag, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the grout. Then the bag is filled with a solution, which is squeezed out with force directly into the seam.
When using a trowel bag, the tip is placed at the top of the joint and then advanced along as it fills. As a rule, all horizontal seams are filled first, and then vertical ones. In the process of applying the grout, it needs to be squeezed out a little more than it seems at first glance. After some hardening of the solution, it is compacted using jointing or a small piece of a smooth metal tube, the cross-sectional diameter of which is greater than the size of the seam. Then, within 30 minutes, you need to let the grout pressed in the seam seize and then the excess is removed using a stiff brush.
Wet grout removal
When it is visually determined that the grout has hardened sufficiently, the lined surface is wet cleaned. To do this, take an ordinary sponge dipped in ordinary clean water. In a circular motion, excess grout is removed from the tile, while do not forget about the frequent washing of the sponge in water, which must be changed as it gets dirty.
Dry grout removal
The seams need to be aligned and smoothed with a joint, that is, a wooden stick with a sharpened end or the end of a toothbrush handle. Then the edges are trimmed with a sponge. The resulting seam should be even and non-convex, in the vast majority of cases it turns out to be slightly concave. All seams must be the same shape and depth.
We hope that our detailed instructions will help you properly perform self-grouting on a ceramic tiled surface. If some points require clarification, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the training video clip.
Having finished laying the tiles in the kitchen, you proceed to the next stage of work. This is a ceramic tile grout. The stage is very important, and if you know how to grout the seams on the tiles correctly, you can hide some laying defects. If the grout is done poorly, it will spoil even the perfect tile laying.
Modern tile laying technology provides for grouting at the final stage of work
Make sure the tile adhesive is completely dry before grouting. Tile joints should be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt, remove all remaining separators (crosses). Some manufacturers claim that the crosses can be left in the seams and covered with grout. But the masters do not advise doing this, since the grout layer above the cross will turn out to be thinner, which means that its color will be different, which can ruin the appearance of the seam.
If you have worked with glazed tiles, you can start grouting right away. If the tile is unglazed, the top and side surfaces of each tile must be dampened. This is done so that the unglazed surface does not absorb moisture from the grout. You can moisten the surface of the tile with a garden sprayer. The main thing is not to overdo it with moisturizing, because puddles of water remaining on the surface of the tiles or in the seams can damage the grout, and it will subsequently begin to crack. To dispel your doubts about grouting unglazed tiles, it is best to consult grout manufacturers.
Grouting tiles: video instruction
What is the grout for tile joints
There are two main types of grouting materials - mixtures based on epoxy resin and cement. When choosing a grout for tiles, do not confuse it with elastomer sealing compounds that fill the joints of building materials. For example, a silicone seal. It is indeed used for tiles, but not for joints, but to fill voids when laying tiles on another surface. Masters do not recommend using silicone sealant for tile joints.
Epoxy grouts
In addition to epoxy resin, they contain a hardener, which makes the tile joints resistant to chemicals. This is a rather expensive grout, so it is usually used for commercial and industrial premises. Working with it is not very convenient - the grout is viscous. If the width of the joints between the tiles is less than 6 mm, and the thickness of the tile itself is no more than 12 mm, then the epoxy-based grout will not penetrate into the joints, they are very narrow for it.
Cement-based grouts
This is a dry mix that must be diluted with water or liquid latex before use. They also sell ready-made, already diluted cement grouts in the right proportion, but they cost more. Cement-based grouts differ in the additives that make up the material. Thus, there are three types of cement grouts: dry hardener, latex mixture and industrial cement. Important: such grouts can cause irritation and inflammation of the eyes, adversely affect the skin and lungs. Therefore, during work, use respirators, rubber gloves and goggles.
The cement-based grout is carefully distributed, filling all the empty space between the tiles.
Why you need a sealant
Using a sealant, craftsmen have two goals: to protect the seams and the ceramic tile itself from stains, to protect the seams from excessive absorption of moisture. So that stains do not appear on the surface of unglazed tiles, the lining is covered with a liquid transparent sealant. Most sealants are based on lacquer, acrylic or silicone. When choosing a sealant, consider the type of tile and grout you are using.
What grout for tiles is better
Most craftsmen use Atlas, Ceresit, Hercules grouts. Please note that the seams should be darker than the tile background. Thus, the severity of the geometry is emphasized, and the dirt that inevitably accumulates in the seams over time will not be so noticeable.
When rubbing the seams with white grout, be prepared for the fact that a yellow coating will appear on it, and it can not always be cleaned with detergents. If the seams are worn out with a dark-colored material, resort to detergents every 2-3 months. But grout is a mixture of cement with mineral additives that will fade over time. The darker the color of your grout, the longer the color will stay pristine.
Tile grouting is done with a small rubber spatula.
How to grout the seams on the tiles
If you have never seen how ceramic tile grouting is done, a video from the Internet will help you get an idea of \u200b\u200bthe work process. It includes several stages: mixing the grout, holding the solution for a certain time for better wetting, followed by re-mixing the grout, distributing the grout, cleaning the joints from excess grout.
The choice of grout for tiles is quite large in terms of price, color, and quality.
Prepare everything you need for work. You will need:
- respirator (if you plan to work with cement grouts);
- rubber gloves, goggles;
- rubber roller or spatula;
- actual grout;
- bucket, clean cloth, sponge;
- plywood (if we are talking about tiles on the floor);
- sealant;
- paint roller or paint brush (small).
Work procedure
- Grout application
After the grout is diluted in the required proportion, lay a slide of grout on the surface of the tile (if you are grouting tile joints on the floor, you can simply lay out the mortar from the bucket, and if you work on the wall, use a rectangular trowel). A trowel is best for spreading the grout.
The trowel should be held diagonally - so the solution will be distributed more evenly over the surface
It should be held at a 30 degree angle to the tile and grouted diagonally. Walk the grater over the surface of the tile 2-3 times, but do not just cover the tile with grout, but try to rub it into the seams, press it in with force. The seam must be tightly filled with mortar. The stronger the resistance, the more the seam will be filled, which means it will be tighter. The basic idea of grouting tile joints is to fill all the corners and voids around the tile from top to bottom. The liquid during the grouting process will leave the grout, so the material will harden, and the seams will be filled with particles of cement and sand.
Do not grout the entire surface at once. First, distribute the material in a small area no larger than 1-2 square meters. This will give you an idea of how fast the grout sets and how often you will have to stop work and clean the grout.
How to grout tile joints with a grout bag
The grout bag is a very convenient and practical tool for performing a simple but important operation.
If you are working on a surface that is difficult to clean, the use of a grout bag is recommended. It works like a pastry bag for decorating cakes. A metal tip is fixed at its end, the width of which is approximately the same as that of the grout. The bag is filled with grout and squeezed into the seam through the tip.
When working with the bag, place the tip at the top of the suture and move it back and forth until the suture is completely filled. For effective filling, work along the entire length of the joint, and not around an individual tile. First fill the horizontal, and then the vertical seams. You should squeeze out a little more grout than you think is necessary, because after the first setting, the grout should be tamped into the joint with a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is greater than the width of the joint, or jointing. After the pressed grout has set in the seam (this takes about half an hour), the excess should be removed with a stiff brush.
How to remove grout from tiles
- Step 1: dry grout removal
After you have grouted all the joints, use a trowel to remove the excess grout. It should be held at right angles to the tile and moved diagonally relative to the surface of the joints. If you move it vertically or horizontally, the edge of the tool can ruin a seam, removing part of the grout from it. After dry removing all excess grout, allow the seams to set before starting the wet grout.
- Step 2: Wet grout removal
How long should it take after the end of dry grouting? It varies greatly from set to set. Sometimes it takes 25-30 minutes, and sometimes five is enough. The drying rate of the grout depends on the adhesive, tile, type of substrate. Not the last role is played by weather conditions.
Working with a damp sponge is an obligatory stage of work that will return the shine, gloss and original color to the tile.
The remains of grout on the surface of ceramic tiles sometimes dry out quite quickly, while the grout in the seams remains wet for a long time. Use a very damp sponge to evaluate. With it, you can test a small area of the surface. If the grout has set very quickly, wet grout removal will be difficult. The material in the seams should be dense and elastic, but not hard. If the grout is trailing behind your wet sponge, it has not yet set enough, you will have to wait a few more minutes. Start cleaning when the grout remains in place.
If too much time has passed from grouting to wet grouting, you can remove the dried excess with a special abrasive float. It does not leave scratches on the surface of the tile.
For wet grouting of tile joints, you will need a bucket of water and a sponge. First, quickly remove most of the grout with a sponge. Make gentle circular movements with a sponge, gradually removing particles of sand and cement. Make sure that there are no grooves in the seams. Rinse the sponge from time to time and wring it well.
For a perfect result, the seams are given the same shape and depth.
Inspect the grout seams and smooth them out if necessary with the help of jointing (a wooden stick with a sharpened end). It is very important to give the seams the same depth and shape.
- Step 3: final cleaning
When all seams are aligned, the surface of the tiles should be cleaned again. This is done with a sponge, which must be constantly rinsed in water and squeezed well. The purpose of this cleaning is to remove all grout residue from the tile surface. After that, the seams should dry for 15 minutes.
- Step 4: Apply Sealant
Sealant can cover both tiles and grout when the tile joints are completely hardened. If you will cover only the seams, use a small brush, if both tiles and grout - a small roller.
Sealant treatment of seams will increase their resistance to mechanical and chemical influences
After completing the work, put a sheet of plywood on the tile and forbid the household to walk on it until the grout is completely dry. Some types of grout dry within two weeks, so as not to ruin the seams, check the required drying time in the manufacturer's instructions.
First of all, let's figure it out - when do you need to grout tiles? Usually, the masters advise starting this work not earlier than a day after the installation is completed, but you should not put it off for a long time. And this period is determined for many reasons:
- On the second day after the completion of laying, the adhesive composition has not yet completely “grabbed” and it is possible to easily clean off the dirt and stains missed the day before;
- The moisture remaining in the tile contributes to better absorption of the grout composition, forming a single surface. Conversely, a special wetting of completely dry joints only leads to an increase in water in the grout, making it liquid and less elastic. And such a mixture is more problematic to apply, and it is more difficult to evenly distribute.
- Leaving open tile joints for a long time is not recommended due to the possibility of contamination. Experience shows that small particles of debris and even settled dust make it difficult to apply any mixtures or coatings. And if we are talking about a room where other repairs are being carried out, then it is very difficult to ensure cleanliness, especially on tiles laid on the floor. Therefore, if you do not want to add problems to yourself, you should not put off grouting.
Traditionally, the color of the grout is selected in accordance with the color of the tile. According to generally accepted design rules, no more than two primary colors are used in the interior of one room. Therefore, some deviations in the intensity of shades of grout and tiles are allowed, but not a difference in color. When combining tiles of different colors, as well as when using decorative inserts, you should stock up on grouts of the appropriate colors.
If it was not possible to find a grout suitable for the color of the tile on sale, then the problem can be solved by making it yourself. To do this, take a white mixture and add to it the required amount of color for water-based paint. Gradually mixing a certain color, you can give the grout the desired shade.
There is one secret here: the color of the wet solution is more intense than the one that will be obtained when the mixture dries. When adjusting saturation, you need to remember this feature in order to select the desired color as accurately as possible.
For white floor tiles, it is more prudent to immediately choose a light gray grout - since it is very difficult to achieve its ideal whiteness when using the floor.
Depending on what methods of grouting the tiles you plan to use, you may need the appropriate tools: a container with a volume of not more than 1.5-2 liters (a small plastic bucket or bowl); a convenient metal spatula for mixing the finished mixture, a foam rubber sponge, a clean rag and a bucket of water. But the main tools in the work will be a special plastic spatula with a rubber tip or a cheaper option - a rubber spatula, although such savings are not always justified.
Applied technology for grouting ceramic tiles and calculating the amount of material
As in the calculation of other building mixtures, it is quite difficult to calculate the expected grout consumption in advance. Even the figures indicated by manufacturers on the packages very often differ, and the most unpleasant thing is when the mixture suddenly ends during operation, absolutely not justifying the declared consumption rates.
To reduce such calculations, when purchasing a grout, you should consider:
- Tile texture. It is more difficult to collect excess mixture from a relief surface, therefore the grout consumption will be greater.
- Tile sizes. Here, simple mathematics - the larger the area of \u200b\u200beach fragment, the fewer seams on the surface. Thus, when grouting joints between small tiles, the mixture is consumed more, and vice versa - the larger the tile, the less grouting will go.
- Seam width. It depends on the size of the crosses used when laying.
For calculations, the ratio of 400 g of the mixture per 1 sq.m of laid tiles of a standard size is taken as the basis, supplementing or reducing the amount of grout, depending on the above conditions.
When all the materials and tools are ready, you need to understand how to use tile grout.
The main stage - applying grout
First of all, you need to prepare the mixture. Do this immediately before starting work, since the solution is not stored for a long time and freezes after 15-30 minutes. For the same reason, they prepare it in small quantities, especially if there are few skills in the work. Dilute the dry mixture with clean water, according to the instructions. And at this stage it is very important to mix the components correctly, otherwise you can spoil the material - both too liquid solution and too thick are not suitable for work. After stirring the mixture, it is allowed to stand for five minutes, and then thoroughly mixed again. Everything, the solution is ready! Let's get the spatula!
When the processing of the tile joints after grouting is completed, the surface is left to dry completely. Usually, under the condition of an average daily temperature in the room of 16-26 degrees and relatively low humidity, an hour or an hour and a half is enough. But lowering the temperature by 3-5 degrees can delay this process.
As for the readiness of the floor tiles for use, although the grout in the joints dries out after an hour, you can walk or place furniture on the floor no earlier than three hours later. The fact is that small specks or sand that accidentally get into a weak grout solution can violate the integrity of a neatly made seam.
Final work
When the grout is already completely dry, it's time to remove the remaining white coating and finally put the tiled surface in order.
The intensity and amount of plaque on the tiles depends on how thoroughly the foam sponge was washed and how often the water in the bucket was changed. But even if the tile needs a good cleaning, this is not difficult to do.
The best and most effective way is to use clean running water from a hose - fast, clean and no need to rub. But it is not always practical to apply such a method. Therefore, the “dry” method of cleaning is more often used. To do this, use a dense, preferably felt, rag, which rubs the surface, cleaning off the remnants of the mixture. The problem can only arise with cleaning the surfaces of corrugated, textured or matte tiles. And here special cleaners will help, which can usually be found in the same stores where the grout is purchased.
A day after laying the tiles, you can fill the seams with grout. This is done to improve the aesthetic appearance of the cladding, and to protect the walls or floor from the ingress of water and dirt. In this lesson, I will tell you in detail how and with what do-it-yourself tile grouting is done.
Proper grouting can hide flaws in tile geometry or installation. The seams should not be deep, so that dirt does not accumulate in them and it is easy to wash them.
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Choice of grout
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- Cement - suitable in most cases. Easy and quick to apply even for beginners, inexpensive.
- - stronger and more resistant to pollution, acids, UV rays. It is more difficult to apply (the seams are formed with a still uncured mixture), it is expensive, you need to buy a special tool to remove plaque. Rough to the touch, like plastic with the addition of sand. Some types come with glitter or fluorescent additives.
- Silicone grout for tiles - suitable for filling joints around the bath, shower, washbasin, hidden hatch.
Color
Grout colors for tiles are selected according to the following rules:
- Plus or minus a couple of tones for floor tiles;
- In color or a little lighter for wall;
- If several basic tiles are used, the grout is selected according to the lightest one;
- For light tiles, you should not take a dark grout, otherwise it will create an excess of contrasting lines.
- Keep in mind that the color of the grout after kneading is darker than on the package. Also, the drying time affects the color, the longer it is, the darker the seams are.
White cement grout for tile joints on the floor quickly becomes unusable. Therefore, it is better to lay dark tiles on the floor and rub them with dark grout.
White seams on the floor after six months And this is a photo of white color after 3 years
If you could not find a suitable grout color, then it can be obtained by mixing two other colors. For example, if you mix brown and white, you get beige.
Another option is to tint the tile grout with paint-tint.
In these cases, you need to mix all the grout for the room at once. If you do this in parts, the tone will be different.
If you will seal any joints with silicone grout, choose an identical color for the main joints.
Features of clinker tiles
A separate conversation is a grout for clinker tiles. It is laid with large joints and has a porous surface, so not every mixture is suitable for clinker.
It is possible to divide all mixtures for clinker tiles according to the application method into 3 types: semi-dry application (for example, Quick-Mix RFS), with a gun (Euromix and Pyrell) and over the entire surface (Ardex BS). The table shows the pros and cons of each option. 
Characteristics
In addition, you need to pay attention to the following specifications on the packaging:
- Compressive strength, tensile strength and adhesion to concrete (the more, the better);
- The minimum and maximum thickness of the joint (grout for wide joints is not suitable for narrow ones due to the large fraction);
- Frost resistance and operating temperature (if the cladding is outdoors);
- Solution life and setting time.
Preparatory work
Dry glue scraper
Before grouting the seams on the tiles, they must be cleaned of adhesive residue. It is advisable to do this immediately after laying, otherwise it is much more difficult to tear it off later and there is a chance to scratch the icing. It is convenient to remove dried glue with a knife blade or a screwdriver sharpened for a trihedron, but even better is to buy a special scraper with an abrasive coating.
To avoid gaps, all vertical seams are first passed, and then horizontal.
The seams must be clean and dry.
Tool
Rubber grater to work faster and more conveniently
The standard grouting tool is a rubber spatula. It is well suited for small areas, but the speed of work will be faster when using a rubber trowel. It is convenient for her to fill the seams, and she leaves almost no excess on the wall.
To fill the corners with a grater, you will need to round off one corner with sandpaper. But you still have to adjust the angles with your finger.
It is necessary to work with rubber gloves, otherwise you can ruin the skin in 1 day.
You will also need a sponge, a clean rag and a bucket of water to work.
Applying cement grout
We dilute the dry mixture with water according to the instructions. In colored grout there are dye crystals that dissolve only after a couple of minutes. Therefore, after the first kneading, you need to wait 5 minutes and mix the mixture again. Otherwise, it will turn out as in the photo:
Too much mixture should not be kneaded, especially for the first time. The packaging says how long the tile grout dries. For example, at a temperature of + 15-25 ° C and normal air humidity for Ceresit, the setting time is at least 60 minutes, and the lining can only be used after 24 hours. But the full strength of the seams will gain only after 28 days, like concrete.
Tightly fill the seams with a grater / rubber spatula in crosswise movements.
Immediately after that, we form the seams with transverse movements with a wet sponge. Try not to wash the mixture out of the seams, but only remove excess. On a large quadrature, to speed up the work, you can replace the sponge with a wringing mop with rope cotton.
Leave the lining to dry and then brush off the white coating with a dry, clean cloth. It is most convenient to do this with a felt mitt.
Features of grouting seamless tiles
Even seamless tiles show seams
Some collections of tiles do not have a slight rounding around the perimeter, because they were not made by casting, but by cutting a large slab into pieces. Basically, it is rectified porcelain stoneware or small tiles 10x10.
Such a tile is laid with minimal seams, but it cannot be laid completely without seams. With the standard approach (grouting ceramic tiles and washing off with a sponge), it is difficult to make a flush joint. Usually it fails and a groove is formed, in which dirt and moisture will then collect. In addition, sharp corners will become a place of potential chips.
To avoid these problems, sealing the joints with a cement mixture is done using the following technology:
- The seams are filled with a rubber float as usual. The mixture must be applied flush with the tile or with a small tubercle.
- We remove excess from the glaze of the tile. To make this easier to do, the surface of the tile is pre-moistened with a sponge (moisture should not get into the seams).
- We are waiting for the grout to dry. We pass along the seam with transverse movements with a piece of corrugated cardboard. The excess will be wiped off and a flat plane will turn out.
Practice on a small area before using this method. If the tile is with soft glaze, micro-scratches from cardboard may remain on it. In this case, you need to rub it in the old fashioned way in 2 calls.
Applying silicone grout
Now about how to use grout for silicone tiles:
For work, we need silicone grout in a tube, soapy water and a template made of wood
Conclusion
In order for cement grouting to be as protected as possible from moisture and fungus, it is recommended to treat them with a water-repellent compound. For example, Fuga-Shine, Ceresit ST 10 or Atlas Dolphin.
