How to properly install linoleum on a wooden floor. How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor If you lay linoleum on a wooden floor

Wood flooring can last a long time, and in itself it has good thermal conductivity and looks great.

But there are situations when the old wooden floor is completely worn out or cracked, and there is no financial opportunity to update it.

An example of wood flooring that would be too expensive to replace is shown below.

In such cases, the most inexpensive and attractive coating comes to the rescue - linoleum.

It won’t be difficult to either buy it or lay it yourself; most of the work is just preparing the wooden floor for subsequent flooring.

Which linoleum is suitable for a wooden floor?

Today there are a wide variety of types of linoleum, they mainly differ in the material from which they are made. In accordance with this, the following types are distinguished:

• household type (21-23) is the thinnest and is intended only for home use with low intensity of walking on it;
• semi-commercial (31-34) is more resistant to wear, it is thicker and harder;
• commercial (41-43) type - the thickest and most durable linoleum, designed for constant walking on it, resistant to various types of mechanical and chemical influences.

Of course, the more wear-resistant the linoleum, the more it will cost you, but for laying on an old wooden floor, a regular household look, as shown in the photo below, is quite suitable.

Linoleum can also be made from different types of polyvinyl chloride or from natural materials, but this type is much more expensive than others.

When choosing the quality of linoleum, you must also pay attention to its main characteristics, since it can be flammable, and especially in combination with a wooden floor cannot be tolerated.

Also, the floor must be protected from moisture, so you need to make sure that the linoleum is moisture resistant.

And finally, if linoleum is susceptible to fungus and various microorganisms, then it can soon lead to damage to the wood floor and its rotting.

All these parameters must be taken into account in order for the coating to serve you as long as possible.

Do I need underlay for wood flooring?

Linoleum underlay can be used to increase thermal conductivity and sound insulation. Since a wooden floor itself conducts heat well, additional insulation is not required.

But the underlay may be required in cases where the floor consists of old floorboards that squeak when walking, or small unevenness or splits that must be leveled.

If underlayment is necessary, then it is worth considering options that will help both save money and remove unnecessary defects in the subfloor.

The easiest way would be to purchase linoleum with a jute or other backing already glued. You can see such linoleum in the photo below.

There are also linoleums with a fabric base on the inside and a foam base, which are four-layer. These types perfectly insulate sounds and compensate for uneven floors; they do not require an additional substrate.

You can simply buy a backing made of cork, jute, linen, foam and others, which differ in the degree of naturalness of the materials used for production and, accordingly, in price.

If possible, you should choose both linoleum and a substrate made from natural materials, which will be safe for health and last much longer.

Preparing a Wooden Subfloor

When the linoleum has been selected, you can proceed to the most difficult stage of linoleum flooring - preparing the wooden floor for further work.

Here you immediately need to look at the condition of the base of the floor and, in accordance with this, choose a method of work.

If the floor does not have significant problems or breaks, but only small gaps and cracks are visible, then you need to do the following:

• completely remove paint, varnish and all contaminants from the surface;
• make the floor level by removing high spots with a plane or sanding machine, and then sand the entire surface;
• if some parts or planks fall out or become loose, then they need to be nailed tightly;
• cracks and cracks, if they are small, need to be filled with a special compound;
• Large cracks can easily be sealed using wooden strips that match the size of the crack or gap.

After all the work, it is better to treat the wood with antifungal and antiseptic mixtures to prevent rotting and mold formation.

You can also additionally treat the floor with a fire-resistant mixture, if necessary.

If your floor is very uneven or has too many defects, then you can proceed in two ways.

When the floor is simply uneven around the entire perimeter, but is strong and can withstand the load well, then you can fill not only the cracks, but the entire floor. This will make it uniform and the linoleum will lie flat.

But if the boards squeak a lot, are broken, or sag in some places, then it is better to cover the entire area with gypsum fiber boards.

If you take gypsum fiber boards 12 mm thick, then it is better to lay them in two layers, perpendicular to each other.

You can also use sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. Making such a dry screed is not difficult; the process is shown in the photo below.

When screeding, several points are very important that must be taken into account.

The plywood sheets should be laid according to the shape of the brickwork; care must be taken that the seams between the sheets do not coincide with the seams on the base of the floor, if any.

Plywood sheets should only be fastened with special screws, as they can break very easily.

There are also special fastenings for GVL profiles. The fastening step of any material should be no more than 30 cm.

After completing the work, be sure to walk over the entire floor area and make sure that the boards do not sag anywhere.

If this is discovered, then it is better to immediately put additional pieces of fiberboard under such a place.

Strengthening the boards can also be done at the preliminary stage before screeding, replacing them with new ones or strengthening them from below with wooden blocks, pouring sand under the wobbly parts.

After the floor is securely strengthened, you should scrape the surface, prime it and you can begin laying linoleum.

Different ways to lay linoleum

First of all, it must be said that purchased linoleum should only be transported in a rolled roll, otherwise it may become deformed and it will be impossible to straighten it.

It must rest for several days at room temperature and undergo acclimatization; for this you need to unroll the rolls and lay them on a flat surface.

During this time, the linoleum will straighten and be completely ready for use.

Now you need to cut the linoleum into the required parts, using a sharp knife.

In this case, you need to leave a reserve for the shrinkage that the material will give; it is about 2% for ordinary PVC linoleum.

You need to cut into small pieces and ensure that the line is straight and the pattern is preserved.

You can cut linoleum directly along the wall, and also cut holes along the contour for pipes, protrusions and other deviations from the wall. Cutting is carried out at the same angle as shown in the photo.

When trimming linoleum in the corners, you need to be extremely careful and it is better to leave a small margin of 1-2 cm. When the trimming is completed, you can attach the linoleum. There are the following ways to do this:

• No glue or fixation required. This method is suitable for small rooms up to 12 square meters. m, and also if linoleum is laid on the floor in one piece without seams.
• Fixing with double-sided tape ensures long-term preservation of the material and seals the seams well. To do this, before laying the linoleum, stick a tape of tape over the seams, or you can make a grid of tape around the entire perimeter of the room in steps of about 50 cm;
• Fastening with glue. If the room is large and you need to fix the flooring for a long time, it is better to use glue. It can be applied both around the entire perimeter and in places where there will be seams. You can see this process below.

After laying with glue, it is necessary to roll the linoleum with a roller in all directions so that it lies flat; if the glue dries, this will be impossible to do.

The adhesive must be suitable in composition for the wooden subfloor and linoleum material.

For maximum masking of seams, you can also use cold welding using a special adhesive.

When you already know how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor, all that remains is to figure out some nuances that will help make the coating smoother and more beautiful.

Regarding how light enters the room, it is better to lay monochrome or marble colors of linoleum perpendicular to the window, and geometric and other patterns should be laid along the boards of the wooden base. This will help make the seams as invisible as possible. You can see an example in the image below.

The joints of linoleum sheets should be in the middle of the board to avoid subsidence and moisture getting into the floor.

When working, it is important to maintain the temperature, which should not be lower than 16 degrees.

Video: laying linoleum on a wooden base

In this video you can watch an example of laying linoleum and make sure that such work is suitable even for a beginner who has never tried laying linoleum.

You will receive valuable advice on the correct preparation of flooring, both base and linoleum flooring.

Wooden floors lose their original appearance over time, the boards become deformed, and cracks appear between them. Such a coating that becomes unusable ceases to retain heat and requires mandatory repairs and insulation. Many home owners prefer to lay linoleum on top of the boards, but it will not solve the issue of insulation if the wooden base is not properly prepared.

Before you buy linoleum as a new flooring, you need to find out which type is best suited for flooring on wood.

Linoleum has always been popular as a finishing coating for floors of any type. This is a consequence of its many advantages over other materials. The positive qualities of linoleum can safely include its following properties: wear resistance and elasticity, water resistance and strength, a variety of shades and patterns, simplicity and speed of installation, which can be done independently, without calling or paying specialists, and, of course, an affordable price, which for many it is a decisive factor in their choice.

Existing types of linoleum

This material can have either a natural or artificial base.

1. Natural linoleum

Natural breathable linoleum is made on a jute base, which is coated with a special mixture of resins, oils, flax, chalk, wood flour with the addition of dyes.

This is not only an environmentally friendly material - it also has high strength, and also has a very special attractive appearance.

If a dry and even base is prepared for it, then this type of material will last a very long time.

2. Linoleum made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) )

This coating consists of three or four layers:

1. it can be without a base, or on a fabric, foam or warm base;
2. the second layer is always fiberglass;
3. the third - a polyvinyl chloride base with a printed pattern;
4. fourth - film, as a protective transparent layer.

The base of the material acts as an insulating and soundproofing layer and can have different thicknesses.

PVC linoleum itself is not afraid of dampness, but if moisture enters the wooden base underneath, the process of rotting of the wood may begin, since it will be covered by the floor covering and air will not flow to it.

If moisture comes from the ground and there is no floor ventilation, then the wooden base may become covered with mold, which will subsequently spread to the walls, and an unpleasant characteristic odor will appear in the room over time. Therefore, this material can only be laid in a dry room with good waterproofing on a wooden or concrete surface.

3. Alkyd linoleum

This type of linoleum can be made from both natural and artificial materials. Its component composition includes minerals, coloring pigments and alkyd resins.

Alkyd resin flooring has a thickness of 2.5 to 5 millimeters and is produced in a single color or with a specific pattern. It must be laid on a perfectly flat surface, since the material is very brittle, so it is not recommended to lay it on a plank floor with strong level differences. On a prepared floor, this coating will last a long time, as it has good wear resistance. In addition, this type of linoleum has good sound-absorbing properties and holds heat well.

If the usual relative humidity in the room is low, then for greater insulation of the floor you can choose alkyd linoleum on an insulated base.

4. Colloxyl linoleum

This variety is made from nitrocellulose and is also considered an environmentally friendly material. It is a baseless floor covering, but at the same time has excellent flexibility and wear resistance, as well as fire resistance and water resistance.

Colloxyl linoleum can have different thicknesses, and is used for installation not only in residential premises, but also in public buildings, where it can withstand the load from a large flow of people quite well.

5. Relin

This is rubber-based linoleum, and it is absolutely not suitable for laying on wooden floors, as it is completely breathless material.

When choosing linoleum, you need to pay attention to one more point - there is commercial and non-commercial material. For flooring in residential premises, only non-commercial linoleum is used, since the commercial version may contain impurities harmful to the body, which solve the issue of strengthening it, but, alas, at the expense of environmental friendliness.

Once the type of linoleum has been chosen, before purchasing it, you need to decide on the required dimensions. To do this, carefully measure the dimensions of the room for which the material is purchased, taking into account possible complex configurations. The resulting area of ​​the room is correlated with the required amount of material. The ideal option is if you can cover the linoleum with one sheet without resorting to welding.

Preparing a wooden floor for linoleum

Having decided on the linoleum, you can proceed to preparing the base for its construction. Before this, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of the floor boards.

If they are affected by rot or some of them have become rotten, then such fragments must be unconditionally dismantled and replaced. It is better to do this right away, without delay, so that later, when the floor under the decorative covering begins to collapse, you do not have to disassemble the entire floor structure, removing the linoleum and underlay.

After replacing the damaged boards, you need to decide on the further technology - whether the noleum will be laid directly on the board base, or whether a plywood backing will be laid on it first.

To choose the most suitable flooring option, you need to get an idea of ​​what kind of work will have to be done in each case specifically, and settle on the one that is more suitable.

When laying linoleum on boards

If the floor is strong, level and well insulated, then you can put decorative material directly on it, but first you need to carry out a number of works that will help keep the coating in its original condition for many years.

• The first step is to remove the old baseboards and remove the dust and dirt that has accumulated behind them.
• The second step is to punch out the bunches, which may have risen over many years of use of the floor. They are sunk into the wood with a punch four to five millimeters. This process must be carried out very carefully and literally every nail that is found must be checked. If you do not carry out this not very pleasant process, then the nails may be placed in the next step in preparing the floor - scraping, or they will simply break through the new linoleum during its operation.

• The third step is the initial scraping of the floor, which is carried out using a special apparatus. After it is carried out, as a rule, cracks and cracks are found that must be repaired.
• Wide cracks are sealed - this can be done with thin planks, which are treated with wood glue and carefully driven through a wooden - a wide, even block.

• Small gaps and cracks can be sealed with wood putty (preferably acrylic or epoxy) using a spatula.
• Then, after the glue and putty have dried, another shallow sanding is carried out in the places where the floor was repaired.
• The entire floor surface is thoroughly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner so that even fine dust does not remain on it.
• The leveled and repaired base must be treated with a special primer to provide additional protection for the boards from microorganisms, insects and moisture.

Only after the boards have completely dried can you proceed to laying the decorative finishing coating.

When laying linoleum on plywood

Plywood with a thickness of seven millimeters or more is often laid on a wooden floor under linoleum. This is done in cases where the floors need to be strengthened, given additional insulation, or when they have significant damage, and it is not possible to seal the cracks for one reason or another.

In order to lay plywood and then linoleum on such a floor, you need to carry out the following stages of preparatory work:

• Remove the baseboards and tidy up the floor underneath them.
• Then carry out a thorough cleaning using a vacuum cleaner.
• If some boards protrude too much upward from the general level, you will have to scrape in these places. When the floor has minor differences, you can do without the leveling process;
• The next step is priming the surface of the boards, but this is done only if the paint is removed from them or the floors have not been previously painted.
• When the soil dries, you can begin laying plywood.

• Sheets of plywood are laid offset, “with bandaging,” and in such a way that a distance of approximately five millimeters from the walls is maintained - this is done for ventilation and to compensate for possible expansion of the material.
• The plywood is screwed to the wooden floor using self-tapping screws.
• After all the plywood has been laid, you need to remove burrs from its edges if they formed during sawing - this can be done using a manual or electric plane;

• Small gaps between the sheets are sealed with wood putty, and allowed to dry thoroughly, and only then linoleum is laid.

Video: how to cover a wooden floor with plywood

Laying linoleum

When the base is prepared, you can begin laying the linoleum.

• The material must be spread out, allowed to lie down and straighten out. This process will take at least 12 hours.
• To secure linoleum to the base, PVA glue with the addition of a small amount of gypsum is well suited. The mixture is prepared in batches, taking into account the obligatory short-term production, since the gypsum quickly begins to harden.
• If such a composition is applied to boards, it will fill small cracks and crevices well, remaining on the surface in an amount sufficient for gluing the decorative coating.
• It should immediately be noted that linoleum laid on a plywood base and in a room with a small area should be glued not at all necessary. All he needs to do is lie down and straighten out. The edges of the pre-spread material should extend 8-10 centimeters onto the walls, and only when the linoleum “gets rid” of the waves is the excess carefully cut off with a construction knife.

Fixing linoleum joints with double-sided tape

• If glue is used, before installation begins, the straightened linoleum is rolled up and glue is applied to the plywood or board base, spreading it with a spatula. The composition is spread over an area approximately 50 centimeters wide, and then part of the roll is unrolled and laid on the coated surface. From the front side, the linoleum is immediately smoothed with a special tool- with a trowel, squeezing out excess air and glue onto that part of the floor that will be coated further to continue fixing the coating. This process is carried out in the same order up to the opposite wall.


• Strips of linoleum are fastened together by welding using a special device using silicone.
• In the doorway, linoleum is fixed with double-sided tape or glue, and then covered with a threshold on top.
• The final drying of linoleum laid on glue occurs only at the end of one and a half to two days, depending on the composition used. In order not to spoil the work, it is not recommended to walk on the newly laid material during drying.
• Additionally, thin insulation can be laid under plywood or linoleum. In the case of laying on boards, such a measure will help preserve the linoleum in its original condition for a longer period, since under loads on the floor covering, one way or another, the gaps between the boards will appear over time on the thin material.

It must be said that laying linoleum is not such a complicated process as it seems at first glance. If you think about it in advance, mentally break down this work into stages and scrupulously follow this plan, then everything will be done carefully and quickly enough.

Video - how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor

Video - repairing a wooden floor in 1 day

Customers of construction stores are convinced that elastic coatings are the easiest and most inexpensive way to update the flooring in an apartment or country house. However, like any other flooring product, linoleum products require careful preparation of the mineral base. But the manufacturers’ instructions say almost nothing about working with a wooden base.

Elastic finishing materials intended for installation in a private house, apartment, office and other objects are made from natural and polymer components. The first variety is known as marmoleum, the second is PVC or vinyl coating.

According to the manufacturers' instructions, it is best to lay roll and modular linoleum using the adhesive method. It is also allowed to install products using double-sided adhesive tape, but this method is not considered very reliable and is recommended for small areas.

Until now, in the vastness of our country, you can find craftsmen who use roofing nails, various mastics, sealants, and the like to fix elastic coatings. If you want your linoleum to serve for at least 7-10 years without loss of functionality and aesthetics, manufacturers strongly recommend that you abandon such exotic fixing methods and strictly follow the instructions. That is, lay the coating using contact adhesive, which is applied over the entire area of ​​the prepared base.

Adhesive for laying linoleum.

When choosing a suitable adhesive mixture, several parameters need to be taken into account:

Coverage type

Solvent-based or polymer reaction adhesive compositions are not suitable for marmoleum, as they damage the fabric (melt or burn). Almost any contact adhesive can be used under PVC linoleum, but the characteristics of the subfloor are very important, as discussed below.

Type of base

The ideal base for laying linoleum without any problems is considered to be a high-quality cement-sand, anhydrite, polymer-cement screed, concrete floor or reinforced concrete slab. That is, virtually any mineral base that meets the requirements of SP 29.13330.2011/SNiP 2.03.13-88 “Floors” and SP 71.13330.2011/SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings”.

In addition, manufacturers allow laying linoleum with their own hands on prefabricated screeds made of gypsum fiber board, fiber board, SML, as well as wood-composite materials with a high level of moisture resistance (chipboard, plywood or MDF). That is, any sheet products with a low coefficient of residual moisture (no more than 8%) and water absorption. This guarantees minimal changes in the linear dimensions of the base during temperature and humidity changes, which means the integrity of the linoleum coating during the service life declared by the manufacturer.

The base is made of plywood under linoleum.

Availability of floor heating system

Not every mixture, after drying, retains sufficient elasticity to withstand constant temperature fluctuations. Therefore, the instructions for the glue must indicate not only the optimal operating temperature of the base floor, but also compatibility with “warm floors”.

We did not list the boardwalk above. According to the instructions for marmoleum from Forbo Flooring systems, as well as PVC coating from Tarkett, a wooden base (parquet, board) is not recommended as a rough base for linoleum due to:

• high level of residual humidity;
• susceptibility to various deformations;
• constant fluctuations in linear dimensions as a result of the slightest changes in temperature or humidity in the room.

According to technologists, laying linoleum on a wooden floor means risking both the base and the finishing coating. Therefore, it is better to lay moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard, OSB on a wooden base, or fill the surface yourself with a good self-leveling mixture (Bostik Roxol Fiber, Forbo-Erfurt 975, etc.).

There is an exception to every rule. And in types of bases for elastic coatings as well. It is allowed to lay linoleum on a wooden floor only if it is old parquet. It can already be called stabilized, that is, the material is:

• not afraid of climate change,
• practically does not absorb water,
• has already gone through all sorts of deformations (warping, bending, shrinkage, etc.).

Old parquet.

Old parquet only needs to level the surface, fix weakened or falling out elements, strengthen it and ensure uniform absorption using special primers.

Required tools and materials

Tools and materials:

1. A suitable type of primer (Forbo-Erfurt 044, Bostik Unidur, Homakoll 05C Prof).
2. Acrylic sealants for sealing seams and leveling small defects. Can be replaced with a mixture of PVA, water and sawdust, or wood putty;
3. Hardware or glue for fixing the falling strips;
4. An adhesive composition suitable for working on a wooden base (Homakoll 128 Prof, UZIN KE 2000 S, Bostik KS 330);
5. Quick-drying cement or gypsum mixtures for local repairs;
6. A hand scraper or grinder with abrasive attachments to remove residual varnish or paint;
7. Construction vacuum cleaner and hygrometer;
8. Knife for cutting linoleum;
9. Level;
10. Steel slats;
11. Tape measures and markers;
12. Notched trowel for applying adhesive composition;
13. A lapping board or weight roller to smooth the linoleum to the base floor;
14. Double-sided tape for temporary fixation of the canvas to the base;
15. and masking tape;
16. Decorative skirting boards and thresholds.

Advice! To seal cracks and eliminate other minor damage, use only compounds based on acrylate copolymer. Silicone pastes are not suitable because no primer will “sit” on them.

The flooring of both marmoleum and PVC coating is produced using an almost identical algorithm. But since vinyl products are most often used in residential construction, the installation of synthetic products will be discussed below.

Step-by-step instruction

It is not for nothing that wood is considered one of the most capricious materials, especially when used as a base. Therefore, your work will require maximum effort, skill and the purchase of expensive, specific products.

Manufacturers especially note that laying linoleum on a wooden floor is possible under the following climatic conditions:

Do not forget to give the linoleum time to acclimatize the coating:

• For PVC - spread out - at least 24 hours, in winter - up to 3 days;
• For marmoleum – 1-3 days rolled up, and the roll should be installed strictly vertically.

We lay linoleum on a wooden floor in 4 stages:

Preparing the base

The rough surface must be cleared of anything that will interfere with the interaction of the glue, base and finishing material. That is, paint residues, dirt, stains of grease, oil, etc.

Particular attention is paid to the surface of the base. So check:

Don't forget to turn off the floor heating 2-4 days before installation. After sealing all defects, the surface must be primed 1-2 times and allowed to dry for 12-36 hours.

Adjusting the material to the size of the room

The linoleum needs to be spread out, pushed tightly and aligned with the flattest wall. You can secure it around the perimeter with double-sided tape. If the vertical enclosing structures are uneven, then place the covering on the wall, press it to the base with a metal strip and gradually cut off all excess with a knife, taking into account a compensation gap of 5-10 mm.

Carefully trim at internal and external corners. That is, press the flooring material to the point where the wall and floor meet, make a cross-shaped cut of 3-5 mm, unscrew the material and carefully remove the excess.

If linoleum is laid in 2 or more strips, then to obtain an even joint you can make a small overlap, about 3-5 cm. Next, press with a strip or ruler and cut through both layers with a knife. A so-called tightly cut seam is formed, which is subsequently very easily joined with “cold welding” glue.

Gluing linoleum

The spread floor material must be folded back halfway and any unnecessary tape removed. Mix the glue thoroughly, apply it to the base and spread it evenly over the floor with a spatula.

After a short technological break (10-30 minutes), lay the linoleum back and smooth it with a roller or lapping board. You need to do the same with the rest of the canvas.

After 36-48 hours, the glue will dry and the seams can be processed according to the instructions on the “cold weld” box. The last step is to attach the baseboards to the wall and the thresholds to the floor.

In conclusion, let us remind you once again that a wooden floor is not the best base for PVC or natural linoleum. Don't skimp, buy moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard or self-leveling mixture to create the correct base. All your investments will definitely pay off with a long period of serviceable, absolutely problem-free coating service.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be performed and you will receive proposals with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Linoleum is a popular material used as flooring; it is widely used in civil and individual construction. Typically, linoleum is laid on a cement-sand screed or on another base, and they are often faced with the need to solve the problem of how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor.

To properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor, you should not only study the installation technology, but also select a material with characteristics that ensure the aesthetic appearance and durability of the flooring. In recent years, many varieties of linoleum of different strength classes and purposes have appeared, so the choice in terms of the optimal price-quality ratio is not too simple.

Types of linoleum

Linoleum is one of the first materials used for flooring; its ancestor was an oiled natural fiber, the production and use of which was noted in 1627. The official appearance of the material as a registered coating dates back to 1863 - at this time the English inventor Frederick Walton received a patent for the development of linoleum. The material received its name from a combination of Latin phrases: linum - flax, linen and oleum - oil, it corresponds to one of the modern types of environmentally friendly linoleum coating made from natural ingredients, which includes linseed oil and linen (tow) of natural origin.

According to the material of manufacture

Depending on the materials used in production, linoleum is divided into 5 categories:

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). The main type of coating, widely used in the field of civil, commercial and municipal construction, the main material of manufacture is foamed PVC. Polyvinyl chloride linoleum is produced on a woven and non-woven heat-insulating base, can be single-layer or multi-layer, and has the following properties:

• Decorative. It has a huge number of patterns, colors, reliefs, imitations of any natural materials (natural wood boards are especially popular), there is no type of linoleum on the market that would not suit any interior.
• Long service life. Polyvinyl chloride linoleum is produced in several classes of wear resistance; in commercial types, its service life reaches 50 years with high daily traffic.

• Moisture resistance. PVC does not allow moisture to pass through and is not afraid of water; it can be safely laid on the floors of damp rooms - kitchens, balconies and loggias, basements. It should be borne in mind that due to the low vapor permeability of the PVC coating, the base underneath must allow air to pass through well, otherwise mold will appear under the linoleum and rotting processes will begin.
• Low thermal conductivity. Foamed PVC, like any materials with air in the structure, retains heat well, so when laid directly on a cement-sand screed or concrete, the floor will be warm. Also, PVC is dielectric in nature and does not accumulate electrostatic charge.
• Environmental Safety. PVC does not rot, resists the growth of bacteria and mold, and does not support combustion.
• Easy to install. A significant advantage of polyvinyl chloride linoleum is the ease of installation of the coating; any homeowner can handle the job alone; in many cases, the use of glue will not be necessary.
• Low cost. A wide range of PVC linoleum is supplied to the market with different manufacturing technologies and wear resistance classes, which are the main factors influencing the cost. Inexpensive household linoleum for rooms with low traffic (bedroom, living room) can be purchased for 150 rubles. per square meter, the average cost of semi-commercial types for objects with a higher load is from 300 rubles. per m 2.
• The disadvantages of polyvinyl chloride materials include poor resistance to high temperatures.

A natural coating, the main components of which are: flaxseed oil, wood or cork flour, resin, lime and color pigments, the base is jute fabric. Marmoleum contains only environmentally friendly natural materials, so it is purchased by people who pay increased attention to their health, people with allergies, asthmatics, and used as a covering for rooms where children live. Natural linoleum has the following qualities:

• It is resistant to abrasion, and in terms of durability it belongs to the semi-commercial and commercial types (operation period 50 years).
• The oil contained in marmoleum has bactericidal properties.
• It has a large number of colors, the dyes do not fade in sunlight.
• Does not support combustion processes, noise reduction level 5 dB.
• The material is mainly sold in rolls 2 m wide, tiles measuring 50x50 cm and panels 90x30 cm; it is quite fragile when laid, and it is not recommended to bend it.
• The cost of Marmoleum is an order of magnitude higher than that of the popular polyvinyl chloride linoleum; this coating is for wealthy people - the price of 1 m2 is 1100 - 2500 rubles.
• In apartments, Marmoleum is not recommended to be installed in damp balconies and kitchen areas, or on loggias.
• Marmoleum is not highly decorative; it is produced with a simple pattern and a small number of colors in one product, often with a monochromatic coating.

Alkyd (glypthal). It is made by spraying alkyd resin onto a fabric cord; it also contains mineral components and dyes. The thickness of the glypthal coating ranges from 2 to 5 mm, it is plain or with a certain pattern, the material is fragile, so it is not recommended to lay it on uneven surfaces or floors with large differences. Before laying it, it is necessary to maintain a certain time interval in a warm room in order to avoid changes in linear dimensions in length and width.

The advantages include good abrasion resistance and high heat and sound insulation qualities, the disadvantage is the difficulty of installation due to the fragility of the fabric.

Colloxin. Made from nitrocellulose, mostly without a base, the coating is highly elastic (flexible) and wear-resistant, waterproof and fire-resistant. The surface has a decorative shine, giving it an aesthetic appearance; disadvantages include a tendency to shrink and sensitivity to temperature changes.

In the production of this variety, technologies for recycling raw materials are used; the coating is two-layer, the base is a mixture of old crushed rubber with bitumen filler. The top layer is also made of technical rubber with a polymer filler and coloring pigments. The advantages of relin include high moisture resistance and plasticity, the disadvantage is the increased content of volatile substances harmful to health in the substrate, released during operation, therefore rubber linoleum is not recommended for laying in living rooms.

According to production technology (for PVC)

Polyvinyl chloride linoleum has no worthy competitors in terms of cost and physical parameters; it is produced using two main technologies:

Homogeneous. The material produced by this method is homogeneous in structure, has one polyvinyl chloride layer with a thickness of 2 mm or more. Homogeneous polyvinyl chloride has a uniform structure and pattern throughout its thickness, its high strength characteristics were initially designed for objects with high traffic, the main area of ​​application is public and commercial buildings, where it has served for more than 25 years.

The product has all the advantages and disadvantages of polyvinyl chlorides; its distinctive feature is the ability to restore a damaged surface using mechanical methods by grinding and polishing the deformed area. In this way, they get rid of scratches, indelible dirt, and wear of the top layer during operation - after polishing, they get a renewed floor covering.

The homogeneous look has two main types of color design: imitation of natural stone (marble, granite) or plain color; to increase wear resistance and chemical protection, it is covered with a polyurethane protective film.

Heterogeneous. Multilayer linoleum made using this technology is produced using the coating method with sequential application of layers to the base, the main of which are:

• Fiberglass. It is basic and is responsible for maintaining the linear dimensions of the coating.
• Primer. For high-quality uniform application of subsequent layers, the fiberglass is primed, and then a front layer of foamed polyvinyl chloride is applied to the primer.
• Facial. The main requirements for foamed PVC of this layer are a flat, smooth and white surface, on which the colors and geometry of the subsequently applied pattern will appear without distortion.
• Printed drawing. It is applied using engraved printing cylinders, each roller of which rolls one color and is responsible for the aesthetic appearance of the canvas.
• Protective. To protect the printed design from abrasion, a transparent film of purified PVC (transparent) is applied to it, which is responsible for the wear resistance of the product - the thicker it is, the longer the service life of the coating.
• The basis. After applying all of the above layers, the canvas is turned over and the back side is covered with a thick layer of polyethylene foam, which is responsible for the main physical characteristics of the product: heat and noise insulation, elasticity, residual deformation (the degree of restoration of shape after compression).
• Compact. This is a leveling layer of foamed polyvinyl chloride, which is applied after fixing the base. The next cycle of production of multilayer linoleum is passing the roll after applying all the layers through a high-temperature oven (heat chamber), where foaming of the structural components of the canvas occurs.
• Protective. After passing through a high-temperature chamber, the canvas is coated with a protective varnish that closes the micropores of the film - this reduces the absorption of contaminants deep into the structure and makes cleaning easier.
• Back drawing. Facilitates product identification and simplifies cutting work for sellers thanks to the printed cutting grid.

According to wear resistance

The main criteria when choosing linoleum: its wear resistance and the type of premises in which it is intended for use, this data, in accordance with European standards with the article EN 685, in force since December 1995, is displayed in the product labeling and consists of two numbers. The classification applies to laminate, parquet boards, synthetic tiles made from a variety of materials. The first digit indicates the class of premises in which the flooring can be used:

• 2 - residential, these include rooms in apartment buildings and private houses, dachas with low traffic;
• 3 - service and office premises, include premises of administrative and office buildings, shopping centers, public catering facilities, preschools and schools, and healthcare institutions.
• 4 - production, the group includes premises on the territory of plants and factories in which people constantly work in a standing or sitting position and on the floors of which light vehicles move.

The second digit of the marking indicates the wear resistance of the coating: 1 - low; 2 - average; 3 - high; 4 - super durable.

In everyday life, linoleum is divided into the following groups:

• Domestic. Used for flooring in rooms with low traffic (bedroom, hallway), in communal apartments, private country houses and cottages, the thickness of the protective shell does not exceed 0.35 mm, the service life is 10-15 years. For installation in apartments, it is more rational to use classes 22, 23.
• Semi-commercial. They have a protective film from 0.35 to 0.6 mm, it is laid in office and service premises with average traffic, corridors and kitchens of apartments, country houses, the service life depends on the load and averages 20 years. For installation in residential premises, wear resistance classes 32 and 33 are sufficient.
• Commercial. It has a high class of wear resistance, is made of dense PVC with a protective layer of up to 0.6 mm, the cost is higher than other types, it is most often used in areas with heavy traffic (shopping facilities, public transport, healthcare institutions, schools). The service life of this type is up to 50 years.

There is a less common classification of linoleum coatings based on abrasion, consisting of the following classes: F - abradable; R - moderately abraded; M - slightly abraded; T – non-abrading.

Preparing Wood Floors

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor with your own hands, a rough base should be prepared for installation; the procedure for carrying out the work depends on the type of wooden covering (regular or parquet board, plywood, OSB, chipboard, fiberboard).

Since relatively soft and elastic linoleum cannot mask bumps, holes and other types of floor defects, the main condition for its high-quality installation is a smooth, even surface. In most cases, parquet boards and wood boards lie flat on the floor; in case of minor defects, proceed as follows:

• The gaps between the sheets or boards are covered with wood putty, the screws on which the plywood sheets were attached are screwed in deeper and their caps are also filled flush with the surface.
• For small protrusions and irregularities in the absence of a sanding machine, grind them down with a plane, chisel or coarse sandpaper; you can use a grinder with a removable disk for attaching sanding wheels.
• If linoleum is laid with glue, the wooden surface is treated with a primer to reduce consumption (absorption) of the adhesive composition and increase adhesion.

Preparation of floorboards

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor made of boards, it checks its condition, on the basis of which a decision is made on the preparation method; in this case, three options are possible:

Puttying. A similar situation is typical for modern wooden floors made of planks - when they are laid, they are varnished and fixed with a tongue-and-groove joint and self-tapping screws, which are screwed from the inside to the joists above the tenons (secret connection). During use in such a floor, small gaps appear between the boards after drying, knots fall out, during preparation they are covered with putty; if the screws were screwed up, the caps are recessed deeper and covered with putty on top. After the putty has dried, linoleum is laid on top using glue or without glue, and the edges are pressed along the perimeter with plinths.

Leveling with wood boards. If a room like an old Khrushchev building has a painted wooden floor, the boards of which have a cross-sectional shape in the form of an arc, you can level its surface with sheets of chipboard, fiberboard, OSB, and plywood. In this case, there is no need to putty cracks and recesses, replace defective boards, or recess nail heads - sheets of plywood will not only level the floor, but will also hide all defects and provide additional insulation.

Flooring is carried out in the following order:

• Remove the baseboards, remove all debris with a vacuum cleaner, and if there are high protrusions, remove them with a plane or chisel.
• They begin to lay plywood with a thickness of 7 - 12 mm, laying the sheets with offset seams (bandaging) and not reaching the walls by 5 mm, they are screwed to the wooden base with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver, recessing the caps by 1 mm.
• Closely located joints and slightly recessed screw heads are covered with wood putty

Advice: It is better and cheaper from a financial point of view to lay linoleum on such a floor with double-sided tape, which sticks well to clean and even plywood.

Leveling by scraping. Old painted floors with wide cracks can be restored to order by removing uneven surfaces using sanding equipment. It should be noted that carrying out such work on wooden surfaces with large uneven areas is quite an expensive option and takes a lot of time; the time frame increases significantly if you have to simultaneously nail all the nails and seal wide cracks. Floor preparation is carried out in the following order:

• Remove the baseboards, remove the debris, hammer in all the nails, pushing them into the wood 4-5 mm.
• Wide cracks are sealed using narrow planks, which are coated with wood glue and carefully hammered into the grooves with a hammer through a wooden block.
• Sanding is carried out using a special machine, after which all cracks and dents above the heads of the screws are covered with putty, and if necessary, the sanding procedure is repeated.
• After cleaning the floor surface, the linoleum is laid using double-sided tape, glue or without their help.

Preparation of linoleum

Polyvinyl chloride linoleum is sold in rolls tens of meters long and 1.5 to 5 m wide in 0.5 m increments; these sizes are suitable for installation without seams in most rooms of standard city apartments. Before purchasing, measure the size of the rooms and buy the closest standard size canvas, then lay it on the clean, tidy floor in the room, face up, and unroll it. Along one of the walls with the greatest length, the roll is laid end-to-end with the factory edge, the remaining edges are cut to the size of the room.

To perform accurate and high-quality trimming, you will need an aluminum construction rule, a painter's knife or a special knife for cutting linoleum. When carrying out work, use the sharp side of the rule to press the canvas into the corner and draw a line along its edge with the blade of a painting knife. In the absence of a long and strong strip with a narrow edge, you can use any straight and long object as a ruler to cut linoleum. In places where it is necessary to cut the canvas near the walls, it is strongly bent and squeezed until a clearly visible deformation line is obtained, after which an even strip is applied to the mark and the canvas is cut along it.

After cutting, the canvas is left alone for a day, giving it the opportunity to straighten and rest, taking into account the fact that the higher the wear resistance class and thickness, the more time it will take to level it.

Substrate

When deciding what to lay linoleum on, sometimes they use a backing in cases where it is necessary to provide additional insulation and sound insulation, vapor permeability to avoid mold, or to eliminate minor unevenness in the base when other methods are ineffective or economically unprofitable (scraping). It should be understood that usually the substrate is a soft material, and after installation, strong dents from heavy furniture, a refrigerator, or a washing machine may remain on the surface of the linoleum. The underlay for linoleum is similar to that used when laying laminate flooring; its main types are:

Cork. An environmentally friendly product with a thickness of 2 - 5 mm, made from pressed crushed oak bark, it is durable, strong and rigid, thanks to which it perfectly hides floor unevenness. In some cases, a cork underlay can replace plywood, which is laid on a floor that is too uneven; its disadvantages include high cost and low moisture resistance.

Polyethylene. Foamed polyethylene with a thickness of 2 - 3 mm is used more often than other materials when laying laminate flooring; its distinctive features are: low cost, biological and chemical resistance, low weight, high moisture resistance, ease of installation. Its other variety, Penolon, has similar properties, having greater thickness, density and a relief surface.

Since polyethylene is too soft a material and loses its shape when squeezed, it is not very suitable for leveling floors and can be used to level out minor defects or additional insulation of floors in wet rooms (kitchen, rooms on the ground floor).

Expanded polystyrene. Extruded polystyrene foam (foam) is perhaps the best choice for a consumer who does not know what to lay under linoleum. Unlike conventional foam plastic, it has higher strength and hardness, and the best thermal insulation properties among all types of insulation. In addition to insulation, the material is used to level the subfloor; it is laid with corrugated sheets 2-6 mm thick on the reverse side on the subfloor and glued with tape.

Hardboard. As a leveling and heat-insulating substrate, you can use thin pressed fibreboard (fibreboard) - hardboard with a thickness of 2.5 or 3.2 mm of various hardness classes. Hardboard is cheaper than plywood and is effective at covering small irregularities.

Methods for laying linoleum on wood floors

There are several ways to lay linoleum on a wooden floor; there is no one method that is equally suitable for different subfloor materials and types of linoleum. The installation method largely depends on the previous preparation of the surface of the wooden floor and the substrate used, therefore, before starting all work, it must be taken into account that all stages are interconnected and the problem is solved in a complex.

Glueless

It is easiest to lay linoleum on a wooden floor without glue; the technology is used in the following situations:

• Small room area, not exceeding 20 square meters.
• Poor-quality subfloor in the form of a loose screed, fragments of which, when glue is spread over the surface, will separate and fall under the linoleum.
• The old floor is painted, which is why a chemical reaction is likely to occur between the glue and the paint and over time the linoleum in this place will turn yellow.
• It is not recommended to glue linoleum onto fiberboard or chipboard slabs laid in damp rooms - in high dampness they will become deformed and swelling will lead to unevenness on the floor.
• In most cases, semi-commercial and commercial class linoleum, which has high strength and rigidity, is not glued in residential premises.

Since the tape has an adhesive surface on both sides, it must have good adhesion (adhesion) to the subfloor. It is clear that it is problematic to stick adhesive tape on a cement-sand screed or a concrete slab, so for this installation method, a flat and smooth surface of plywood boards, a modern unpainted or old-style recycled floor from the Soviet era is suitable.

Linoleum laid on double-sided tape can be of any wear resistance class; joining the sheets with adhesive tape is allowed; for insurance, the edges can be additionally coated with special glue and then joined.

On glue

Although the use of glue when laying linoleum is not always necessary, it is better to glue soft, cheap linoleum with a low class of abrasion and wear resistance, and also applying Tarkett linoleum to glue is an important part of the technological process.

In the construction industry, for high-quality installation of floor coverings, two-component reaction adhesives are used, which have high water resistance, resistance to mechanical loads, temperature changes and other difficult operating conditions. For household use, it is cheaper to use water-based glue; the most popular and widespread option is PVA in its pure form and adhesive compositions where it is the main component (Bustilat). To glue linoleum, you can use inexpensive construction adhesive (KS) based on liquid glass and the following types of adhesive compositions:

• Homakol- dispersion polymer with resins, intended for laying vinyl and polyvinyl chloride linoleum on any substrate.
• Arlok— acrylate adhesive for installation of Forbo and Thomsit series coverings, suitable for gluing heterogeneous and homogeneous linoleum on waterproof substrates in high-traffic areas.
• Gumilax- latex-rubber mixture, does not interact with water and is used for laying natural marmoleum on any type of subfloor.

How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor after high-quality and correct preparation of the base is not a difficult task for most consumers; the task is even simpler after learning a few simple rules and techniques. Basic tools for decking: a sharp painting knife with replaceable blades or a special one for cutting linoleum, a long metal ruler with which to draw a straight line on the joined sheets, a notched trowel (comb), a manual pressure roller or a rule (flat board, platband, timber) .

To make a pressure roller, which must have a large weight and length, a device in the form of a household mop is assembled independently from a wooden round handle and a perpendicular strip. Scraps of linoleum are wound around the edges of the mop and secured with tape; to increase sliding, use its insulated side from the outside when winding, or take any woven fabric, polyethylene backing, which is used to cover the wound linoleum.

No glue

Laying linoleum on a wooden base without using glue is a fairly simple task and consists of several operations:

• The purchased canvas of standard size is placed in the room, cut with a knife along the perimeter of the walls with a gap of several millimeters, using even guides. In places where an exact connection to the door frame is necessary, make cuts in the corners and wrap the excess pieces onto the wall.
• After curing the linoleum for 24 hours, they begin laying it; to do this, from the middle of it, using a long strip covered with sliding material and not quite reaching the walls, they roll out the canvas in several passes, after which they press it with a plinth near the wall.
• Then the rolling is carried out in the opposite direction from the pressed edge to the end of the web, trying to press the pressure bar with maximum force, the penetration is repeated several times.
• After leveling the canvas, screw the baseboards on the opposite side, then along all the walls, where possible.
• Then the excess pieces near the door frame are cut off with a paint knife, to connect the panels, they are laid on top of each other and cut through using a metal ruler.
• To prevent the joint from lifting up when walking, double-sided tape is placed underneath to connect both pieces, masking tape is pasted on top along the seam on both sides, and a special adhesive composition for joining this type of linoleum is applied to the joint; after the glue has dried, the paint is removed.

In many cases, you can lay linoleum on a wooden floor using double-sided adhesive tape, installation is carried out in the following way:

• Sweep the wooden flooring very carefully, using wet cleaning if necessary.
• After drying, double-sided tape is glued to the floor with one side in longitudinal strips at a distance of 50 - 100 cm from each other (does not matter much).
• Lay out and cut the canvas to the size of the room, let it rest for at least 24 hours.
• Roll the linoleum into a roll to the middle of the room, remove the protective paper from the adhesive tape.
• Roll out the linoleum to the wall, pressing it firmly against the floor with a strip, after fixing, roll up the other half, remove the protective film from the adhesive layer of the tape and straighten the canvas to the opposite wall.
• Upon completion of installation, trim off excess areas in difficult places near the door frame.

On glue

In order for the linoleum to rest well before the flooring, it should not be deformed when resting against the walls, so before laying it is cut around the perimeter, not reaching a few millimeters from the wall covering. To fix it with glue, you will need a notched spatula with a tooth of about 2 mm (you can buy it or make it yourself, cutting off the tooth of a 5 mm metal product with a grinder) and a heavy roller, which will ensure tight contact of the canvas with the glue (an even pressure bar in this case is less effective). Installation of linoleum with glue is carried out in the following sequence:

• The resting and pre-cut canvas is rolled into a roll to the middle of the room, simultaneously sweeping away debris from its surface while rolling to prevent small solid particles from getting into the glue, after which the area of ​​the cleared floor is swept.
• Apply the adhesive to the subfloor using a toothed comb to ensure even coverage. In the construction industry, adhesive is usually applied with a plastic spatula, resulting in an uneven, quickly absorbed film and thus saving on adhesive materials. Considering that linoleum lays perfectly even without the use of glue, there is nothing to worry about if certain sections will not be glued if semi-commercial and commercial types are used. In individual house construction, linoleum for household use has low physical characteristics and requires careful gluing over the entire surface, so the use of a notched trowel is more rational.

Note: It is also important that water-based glue, when applied in a thin layer, quickly absorbs the wood and the connection may not occur, while a high glue tooth, when spread with a comb, will be absorbed into the wood over a longer period of time.

• After applying the adhesive composition, the roll is gradually rolled out, pressing it firmly to the floor with a roller, and the rolling operation is repeated several times along and across the strip.
• Then the second half of the roll is glued in a similar way, rolling it into the middle of the room and rolling it out with a roller after applying the adhesive to the subfloor.
• Trimming in hard-to-reach places and where high precision is required is carried out after gluing the entire canvas.

To properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor, careful preparation of its surface is necessary, because any protrusion, bump, or small pebble will appear over time. In everyday life, when laying hard and durable semi-commercial linoleum with a high wear resistance class, in many cases it is possible to do without the use of glue; if laying the canvas for domestic use in a large area, it is advisable to use special glue for linoleum or water-soluble PVA-based compounds.

Most of us have wooden floors in our apartments and houses.

And in country houses, most people prefer wooden bases - they are practical, inexpensive and quick to lay.

However, wood flooring in itself is not very aesthetically pleasing. Much more practical is the popular floor covering.

It is cheap, can be laid quickly and is very easy to care for.

How to properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor, whether it is possible to use the base without preparation, and if not, how to prepare it, will be discussed below.

Before you say whether it is possible to lay linoleum on a wooden floor in a private house, apartment or country house, you need to inspect this floor.

If it is made of humpbacked boards, rest assured that no matter how thick the linoleum is, sooner or later these humps will begin to appear through it.

Therefore, before laying, the wooden floor must be covered with sheets.

Plywood is chosen to be of small thickness.

3-5 mm will be enough. The dimensions of a standard plywood sheet are 1500x1500 mm.

When laying it, it is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws at five points - in the corners and one place in the middle. The self-tapping screws must be completely recessed into the body of the plywood; to do this, recesses are pre-drilled under them using a feather drill.

Correct laying of linoleum from several sheets. How to get rid of seams

Typically, linoleum has limited dimensions in terms of the length or width of the sheet. Although linoleum joints are usually a problem in large offices and industrial premises, you may also have to lay linoleum on a wooden floor made of several sheets at home.

For example, when you use different linoleum for different rooms. In this case, the simplest solution is to use a threshold.

The thresholds are sold in different types, are practically not felt when walking and create a beautiful distinction between colors. In addition, the threshold presses the edge of the linoleum to the floor, and you will not lift it up, touching it when walking.

The second option is welding linoleum. Not used for all types of linoleum. Two sheets from the same batch, of the same color, are welded.

Before purchasing, find out whether this type of linoleum can be welded and how. You may need a welding machine, or you may get by with a simple liquid for welding linoleum.

Glue the edges. Not entirely reliable. Over time, such a joint will still diverge, and the thicker the linoleum, the more.

So get ready for the fact that this decision will not last forever, and over time you will have to put a threshold in place of the joint.

If you use thresholds, it is most rational to lay linoleum so that the joints are not noticeable. For example, in an office room with several tables and an empty space in the middle, where you have to lay linoleum from two large rolls, place one large roll in the middle.

And cut the second one in half, you can even ask to do this when purchasing. After this, you will have two thresholds, but they will be located closer to the walls of the room, perhaps they will fall under, and it will not be so noticeable.

It is convenient to lay linoleum with a pattern “under the boards” so that the threshold is located along the “boards” and not across, so this will also not be too noticeable. It is better to lay linoleum with a clumsy pattern without direction without any seams, or use welding, which is presented in detail in the video: