Definition of a milling table, its design

A device that can be used to: grooves in the workpiece, grooves. making tenon joints, processing the edges of products, called a milling table. It is inconvenient to use a router separately; the master will have to concentrate on the workpiece and at the same time on processing. A milling table, assembled with your own hands, facilitates the work process; it can be mounted on a workbench or a special design can be made for it.

Important! When carrying out work on the manufacture of a specialized table, you must remember that the router is installed from below, and free space must be allocated for it. The stationary part of any table is the frame; it is a strong frame with a table top.

Material for the frame milling table can be:

1. Wooden beam.
2. Metal squares.
3. Plates: MDF, chipboard.

The requirement for the frame is to create stability for the tabletop and rigidity of the structure. When you make a milling table with your own hands, the overall parameters of the frame are determined from the materials that require processing.

How to make a bed for a milling machine

Despite the simplicity of making a frame for a tabletop, a homemade milling machine must meet the requirements:

The table design includes mounting plate. it is needed to mount the router.

How to make a mounting plate correctly

Place the mounting plate at the location where the router sole is attached. For its manufacture, a material is selected that meets the following criteria:

• Strength.
• Thickness - the thinner the better.

Experts recommend using sheet metal, fiberglass or textolite, to make your own mounting plate for a milling machine. Overall dimensions are rectangular, thickness within from 4 millimeters to 8 millimeters. It is necessary to make a hole in the center of the plate, the diameter of which matches the hole on the base of the hand router.

The router is equipped with a plastic pad that is attached to threaded holes on the base; these holes are used to attach it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes, they must be made in the sole of the router. Another method of attaching the router is proposed, using metal spring brackets. Mounting plate attaches to the tabletop at the corners .

DIY assembly instructions for a milling table

To assemble the clamping device, rollers or a ball bearing of the required diameter are used. It is mounted in a holding device, which is rigidly fixed at the required distance from the plane of the tabletop.

This device ensures that the dimensional workpiece is tightly pressed against the plane of the table top as it passes under the roller. This simple addition increases the accuracy of the work performed and improves labor safety.

You can assemble a functional milling table with your own hands when the master has information about the electric drive that will be used in the work. Let's consider the power parameter to select electric drive:

Important! Experts recommend that before assembling a milling machine, determine the power of the milling machine, it should not be less than 2 kW. This power allows the master to work with any wood. It is recommended to choose milling cutter models with variable speed control. The rotation speed of the router is very important for obtaining an even cut on the workpiece. If this parameter is high, the cut will be clean.

Safe use of the router table

When the milling table is assembled and the electric drive is installed, do not rush to immediately check its operation, make sure that the work was performed correctly. What experts recommend doing for safe work on the milling table:

• It is advisable to install a protective screen on the countertop; it can be of your own design or an industrial design.
• Be sure to check the presence of an emergency stop button for electrical equipment; it must be in the shape of a “mushroom” and located in the area where the technician is located so that it can be pressed with the body.
• Equip the work area with light illumination.
• When the router table is used to frequently change cutters for work, it is recommended to equip it with an automatic cutter lifting device.

Equipped with a homemade milling table no restrictions. there is only one requirement for them: increasing the safety and efficiency of the work performed.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands with design drawings

Using a router table, you can perform professional woodworking. Joints, end profiling, door and window frames, skirting boards, photo and painting frames are made neatly and conveniently on the table. A factory-made table can cost a pretty penny if its quality is dubious. Why not make it yourself? Moreover, the design is not at all complicated; further drawings will be analyzed in detail.

Main parts of the milling table

homemade milling table

There are many options for milling tables. As a rule, craftsmen create unique drawings to suit their needs. But the basic design is the same regardless of the size of the machine. Here is a table 90 x 48 x 30 cm, the table top and supports are made of plywood No. 27, the legs of the workbench are welded from angle steel.

The main elements of a table for a manual router, the quality and design of which will determine the ease of use and functionality.

First you need to decide on the type of future machine:

If you plan to work on location, a drawing of a small portable structure will do. For constant work in the workshop, a reliable and powerful stationary table will be convenient. It can be installed on wheels and moved around the room. And for a small workshop, the modular option is good; it is an extension of the tabletop of the sawing machine or its rotary version.

Cover material

The most practical tabletops are made of chipboard covered with thin plastic or MDF with a melamine layer. This material is very easy to cut with a jigsaw, and it will last a long time.

Pressed countertops are not suitable for working in damp rooms or outdoors! To prevent them from swelling, all edges will have to be carefully processed and sealed.

Homemade countertops made from plastic sheets are very good. They are smooth, even, and easy to process. This machine can be used in any conditions.

Metal countertops are more difficult to make and are heavy. And aluminum sheets must be additionally clad - covered with a layer that prevents contamination of parts.

Groove for stop

Typically, a milling table is used for processing longitudinal edges. To be able to process the transverse ends, when creating a homemade machine, you need to provide a movable stop that moves in the groove. The built-in groove is also used for attaching clamping devices.

Fixing the router

There are two options for attaching a manual router to the table:

• directly to the bottom surface of the tabletop;
• to the removable mounting platform.

When making a milling table with your own hands, they often use the first method, as it is simpler. But the mounting plate equipment has several advantages in operation:

• frees up to 1 cm of the processing depth of the part;
• The router is easier to remove to replace cutters.

Therefore, we recommend that you tinker a little longer and equip the mounting plate. It must be flush with the surface of the countertop, otherwise the workpiece will touch the protrusions. Even more convenience is provided by a lift for the cutter, the design of which will be discussed in detail below.

Longitudinal stop

It serves as a guide for the part, so it must be level. You can make a stop with a T-slot into which clamping devices and other devices are inserted to make work easier.

Homemade table

The most primitive drawing of a homemade table for a router is an MDF table top, in which a hole is made for the router to pass through and a guide ruler is attached - a smoothly planed board. This tabletop can be placed between two workbenches or installed on its own legs. Its advantages are the simplest and quickly manufactured design. Such a device is unlikely to allow you to carry out serious woodworking. Let's consider more functional options, including a rotary one.

Small router table

neat and small table

A tabletop model for a hand router that you can make yourself in a few evenings. The design is light and mobile, fits on a shelf, takes up little space, and its drawings are simple.

• The working surface and side racks are made of thick laminated plywood No. 15. The size of the table top is 40 x 60 cm, the height without the corner stop is 35 cm, the height of the stop is 10 cm. Three grooves are selected in the surface of the work table for installing rails. Various auxiliary devices are installed here and moved along the tabletop.
• To make the structure stable, the legs are made of chipboard or MDF No. 22. The legs are placed with a slight indentation, leaving a little space for attaching templates and clamps using clamps.
• To cover the mechanism, a front panel made of plywood or chipboard is installed below.
• The side stop has grooves along which it moves. Locked in the right place using bolts and wing nuts. The emphasis can be dismantled and any convenient device can be installed in the free space.
• A pipe is connected to the stop to remove chips that are released in abundance during operation. The chip drains of the router and the table are connected through plastic corrugations from the sewer siphons by a splitter for the water supply. A hose from a household vacuum cleaner is attached to a clamp. The result is a very effective system for removing chips; they practically do not scatter throughout the room.
• Since the machine is designed for a manual milling machine, a special on/off switch is not required.
• The stop consists of two parts, which are moved closer or further depending on the diameter of the working body. A wing nut is provided to secure the sash. The good thing about the proposed model is that the tool can be easily removed from the frame to replace the cutters.
• The mounting platform for the router is made of textolite or plexiglass. The plastic platform from the router kit is first dismantled. The recesses for the mounting area are selected with a router, and the hole is cut with a jigsaw. When the hole is ready, the plexiglass is adjusted to its size and shape. It should fit tightly and without protrusions into the window.

You can make several mounting platforms of the same size with holes for different cutter diameters.

This option is convenient for small hand tools. If a stationary table is being made for a large router, insert rings for different cutter diameters are attached to one mounting platform.

To ensure that the workpiece moves smoothly, movement stops are installed on the side stop. Clamps are also attached to the side stop, which hold the part near the cutter during operation. Additional convenience is provided by the slide, along which the workpiece moves at a right angle. And to make the work safe, pushers are manufactured.

The table is ready for use, its drawback is the lack of adjustment of the processing depth. This is done manually by pressing on the tool. It is impossible to “get” to the desired depth the first time. Therefore, we recommend equipping the table with a lift.

You need to make a hole in the frame into which an adjusting bolt with a wing nut is inserted. The depth of milling is smoothly changed by twisting the lamb.

Some craftsmen adapt old car jacks for a lift for a powerful router. The device is attached under the router; a hole is made in the side wall to bring the jack handle out. The jack handle can be bent at the desired angle; when rotated, the router smoothly moves up and down in 2 mm increments.

Another model of a homemade milling table for a router in the video:

Examples of milling table designs and their drawings

Design 1

When purchasing a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks for it and the scope of work to be performed. Therefore, the master, thinking about a purchase, tries to find a universal option, combining precision in processing on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.

In this article we will look at a compromise option - a table for a manual router with your own hands; drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.

To make a milling table with your own hands, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or to buy a ready-made version, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.

The working process of a hand milling cutter consists of moving the tool along the plane of the workpiece. If the router is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then the manual machine becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.

It is preferable to perform a number of milling operations only in a stationary position - cutting out grooves and grooves, various methods of processing the edges of products and laying tenon joints.

The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location. It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.

Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands. The design of a portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual router from a structure, and remount it after the job is completed.

Basic elements of a milling table

Let's consider an option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to make with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.

It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:

• bed;
• table top;
• mounting plate;
• longitudinal stop;
• pressing combs.

You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (cut plywood sheets, chipboard, edged boards, metal corners, pipes). We will put together a bed for the machine from boards or use an old table or bedside table.
Anything that will allow you to react rigidly and steadily to the vibration of the milling machine and will serve as the supporting structure of the machine will do.

When making a machine bed with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself. Only by taking into account the operator’s characteristics (height, arm length, etc.) will the work process take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.

Tabletop

It is convenient to use a kitchen countertop for a working surface. But this option is relevant if you have changed kitchen furniture and the old countertop is lying idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.

The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a strong and reliable table for a manual router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the feeding of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.

The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed; the width of the tabletop changes, but the depth and thickness remain unchanged. The picture shows a table top with dimensions suitable for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is not mandatory; each master changes them to suit specific conditions and requirements.

A hole is cut out in the center of the tabletop for attaching a milling machine. The dimensions of this hole are larger than the seat plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded to install the mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the rebate is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the surface of the table.

For greater functionality of the machine and the ability to process parts of different sizes, grooves are selected in the tabletop. They install a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.

Mounting plate

The mounting plate is necessary to attach the router to the table. It is made from durable materials such as metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used for fastening. To make it easier to control the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.

The plate should fit tightly into its seat on the machine table top. Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over attaching a router directly to the bottom of the tabletop. The small thickness of the plate increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter used. The diameter of the cutters varies from 3 mm to 76 mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with replaceable rings to change the hole for the cutter.

Longitudinal stop

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required that guides the workpiece along the table. The result of the work done with your own hands will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the tabletop. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.

A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction. Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working element, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.

Longitudinal stop (front view)

Longitudinal stop (rear view)

Pressing combs

To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.

The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure. Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the comb moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.

The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves lengthwise and crosswise in a horizontal plane.

1. If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table yourself, with the help of which you can adjust the comfortable height for work.
2. To ensure durability of the equipment, the wooden parts of the milling table are coated with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
3. Mount the protective glass on the longitudinal support, which will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
4. Use gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
5. Do not wear loose-fitting clothes.
6. Use hand routers with a power rating greater than 1100 watts.
7. Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 the length of the shank.

Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:

• before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
• do not apply much force when milling (too strong a feed will damage the tool);
• install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank, but not tightly, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
• when using large diameter cutters, reduce the rotation speed;
• disconnect the tool from the power supply before performing adjustments and maintenance;
• Monitor the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged ones.

Reliable do-it-yourself milling table

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in a table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface being processed, but the part that moves relative to it. A router fixed to the table provides greater possibilities for processing parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade design will replace an industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and non-movable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Design diagram

To make your own countertops, you usually use MDF boards covered with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to process and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so it needs to be painted.

The covers of the milling tables must be smooth. They are often made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are easy to process. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

Branded countertops made of steel or aluminum already have holes for a specific model of router. If the manufactured countertop models are made of MDF boards or plastic, then the companies prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is attached with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table cover is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices for leveling the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the working surface of the milling table.

Creates convenience when selecting cutter diameter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the surface of the table and be easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made either solid or in the form of several overlays. To prevent chips and debris from accumulating, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The vacuum cleaner hose is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop are in the form of several fastened overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a frame into which the grinder will be attached. You can read more about making this design yourself here.

Required tools and materials

1. Carpenter's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
5. Jigsaw.
6. Wrenches.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculations

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. The easiest way to create a table top, support part and parts for a milling table is to use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board, laminated on both sides, will not warp during use. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table diagrams

Step by step instructions

The structure of the upper part of the table will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. As a replacement for this material, you can use birch plywood.

• Cut the sheet material into fragments according to the specified dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - support base; 3 - its support wall; 4 - gusset (4 pcs. dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic cover from the base of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic pad will serve as a template for marking

• On the largest sawn part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make markings for the cutter. To do this, you need to draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle and put a mark. Then place the pad so that the router's adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be secured with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

• Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determining its diameter

• From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

• Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

• In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

• Attach four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the tabletop using screws.

Use wood glue or epoxy as glue.

• Glue the remaining pieces together and secure them with screws. Install a router at the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

• Now you need to make the table support structure. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side pillar; 2 - internal stand; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

• Cut the plywood into pieces according to size.
• Assemble the table structure, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, and glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - bottom of the structure; 4 - internal panel; 5 - rear pillar

• Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make the plate, you need duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the router sole onto it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will serve as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the cover. After this, remove the cover and use a large drill to make indentations for the caps in the plate.

Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which are sanded.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• Drill holes at the place where the cutter is attached and widen them on the back side of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the tabletop, aligning them for fastening with bolts. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the tabletop and secure it with screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

• For ease of operation of the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the future to process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to embed guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the slab.

Rotary and side stop will make the process convenient

• Install a guide profile in the front stop bar for attaching clamps, pads and protective devices.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a part measuring 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching an adapter fitting for a vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• For support, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience

• To mill small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, we cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a comb clamp, it is better to use maple wood. To cut out a part, you need to choose an area with a straight direction of the wood fibers. It is better to make the cracks of the ridges with a circular saw on a machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

• Secure the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work will be carried out. Clean all wooden elements from dust and coat with oil.

Safety precautions

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. You can also equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent particles from flying away.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective screen and measuring workpieces is prohibited. To avoid flying particles from getting into your eyes, you must use safety glasses. This is especially true when high-speed milling or processing bronze, cast iron or silumin elements.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to keep your hands close to the tool rotation zone. Before installing drills, you must ensure their reliability and strength, as well as their integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips or cracks. If such defects are detected, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks to relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

Do-it-yourself wood milling machine - how to make it

The amount of work to be done will depend on which version of the table you need.

There are several types of router tables:

1. Stationary
   Free-standing, full-fledged desktop.
2. Portable
   Tabletop design, which can be installed if necessary.
3. Aggregate
   An option when, in order to work with a router, the surface of the saw table is expanded (pictured).

Design elements

In this article we will look at a stationary milling table. Having made it, you can independently cope with any other type of construction.

The most important part of the table is the bed. It consists of a frame (legs, frame, etc.) and a table top (including a metal plate and other table components). The height of the bed varies from 75 cm to 1 meter and can be adjusted individually.

An old unnecessary table, which can easily be converted into a milling table, is quite suitable as a bed.

The tabletop is made of chipboard, laminated chipboard, thick plywood or plastic. The optimal sheet thickness is 16 mm. The material for the frame should be selected taking into account the fact that wooden pieces will constantly move along its surface. Therefore, it should be smooth. Often the countertop is made of metals that are not subject to corrosion (for example, aluminum).

There is a mounting plate in the middle of the tabletop. Many people think that they can do without this detail, but this is not true. The mounting plate is a holder for all milling equipment.

The thickness of the plate should be no more than 8 mm. The material used depends on desire and capabilities. It can be metal, textolite, durable plywood or other sheet material. A hole is cut in the center of the plate to fit the size of the router sole.

Important: Models of milling cutters differ from each other, so when making a table, you should take into account that its height should be ideal for your height, and the mounting of the router and the size of the hole should be exactly for your tool.

Stationary milling table

Let's consider the option of making a milling table with a metal frame and a tabletop made of Dutch plywood.

Materials and tools

In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• metal corner or pipe (for frame)
• aluminum guide
• axes for mounting the router
• putty, primer and paint for metal
• self-tapping screws
• furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm
• Hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts – 4 pcs.
• Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can use other material)
• boards or plywood scraps (for making a rip fence).

The following tools are also required:

• welding machine (for metal table frame)
• drill and bits
• screwdriver
• jigsaw
• router
• spatula, brushes, rags.

You might also be interested in an article on how to make a jigsaw table with your own hands.

You can learn how to make a table for a sewing machine yourself from this article.

Manufacturing stages

Step 1. First, we make the table frame: the tabletop holder is welded from 4 profile pipes 25 x 25 mm, on one side of the table it is necessary to weld another pipe along which the parallel stop will move. The legs are welded to them.

You can weld on each side of the frame (along the perimeter where the tabletop will be located) a corner as long as a pipe, so that the tabletop sits on these corners in the recess.

Another option, which we will use, will be to install additional supports for the tabletop: we weld two more pipes onto the long sides, which will serve not only as a support for the plywood, but also as a limiter for the router (the distance between them should be such that you can safely cut out a hole for mounting the device).

To make the workplace more stable, we weld reinforcing bridges between the table legs, at a distance of about 20 cm from the floor.

Step 2. For painting you need to take oil paint (not suitable for aluminum and galvanized steel!). We clean the metal from dirt and degrease it using any solvent (alcohol, kerosene, etc.). If necessary, you can fill the surface with a special putty and prime it.

Please note: all actions should be carried out in a respirator and a ventilated area.

For primers You can use the same paint that will be used for further painting, but diluted with a solvent. More long term and qualitative the result is obtained during processing specialized compositions for metal.

After application last standing you need to wait until it's full drying out and only then proceed to further actions.

Step 3. We cut the tabletop exactly to fit the metal frame so that it fits firmly into the corners. For greater strength, you can drill holes (with a metal drill) in metal pipes (or corners) and fasten the edges of the tabletop to the frame with furniture bolts. The size of the finished tabletop is 84 x 59 cm, table height is 90 cm.

Step 4. At a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge we cut aluminum guide along the entire length of the tabletop.

Step 5. Cut the axes for the router in half. This will help increase the space between the sole and the guide axle to 11mm (if using uncut axles, this distance will be only 6mm).

Step 6. We remove the sole from the router and mark 4 holes in the middle of the tabletop for its fastening, and drill them. We make a hole in the middle of the tabletop for the router. The hole size will be different for each tool! Holes are drilled to the left and right of the hole into which the bolts for securing the clamps of the router axes are inserted (they will no longer be removed).

Step 7 On the reverse side, you need to use a router to make a large groove for sole milling cutter.

In the groove itself, at the top and bottom of the through hole, cut small grooves (with a router) equal in length to the axes. At the ends of the grooves, use a Forstner drill to make small recesses for adjusting bolts with hexagonal hole.

Step 8 We cut out two pieces of pipe equal to the width of the large groove. We drill holes in them for bolts that cannot be removed. We have obtained clamps for the router axes. Nuts are screwed onto the bolts.

Step 9 Hex nuts and bolts are placed on both sides axes and are necessary in order to carry out plane adjustment milling cutter.

Step 10 We make a parallel stop. To do this, a groove is cut in a small piece of plywood for movement along a pipe specially welded for this purpose. Using a jigsaw, three equal-sized strips of plywood are cut out (length of the strip = table length + width of the guide pipe) and 4 stiffening ribs for them.

A semicircular hole is made in one strip of plywood for the release of chips, which should correspond to the slot in the tabletop. A square hole is made in the second strip in the same place.

The third strip of plywood is sawn in half. It is attached to the back of the strip with a square hole using bolts (then you need to make long grooves for their movement) or simple guides. The plywood halves should move apart in different directions. An aluminum guide is installed at the very top edge of this strip.

Step 11 We fasten the first and second strips together with the sides with cutouts. We fasten the stiffening ribs: two - along the edges of the resulting large hole at the junction of the plywood strips and one - on both sides (at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edge).

We cut out a small square of thin plywood (which would fit between the stiffening ribs located in the middle), closer to the middle we make a hole equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner pipe. The plywood is attached to the stiffeners, forming a triangular box.

Step 12 The parallel stop for the milling table is fixed with clamps. This is done so that the milling table can be easily removed and rearranged. If it is completely intended for the router, you can fix emphasis using brackets with grooves for its movement.

The use of various devices for a manual router significantly expands the capabilities of this unit, and also increases the comfort and safety when working with it. There are ready-made models of devices on sale that are designed for use in conjunction with a router, but, as a rule, they are expensive. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to make accessories for this unit with their own hands.

If you attach a hand router in a special way under the table, you will get a universal carpentry machine that allows you to accurately and quickly process long and short pieces of wood. To make a table for a router with your own hands, you first need to prepare the necessary parts to assemble the entire structure. The figure below shows a cutting map on which all the details of the future milling table are located. They are cut using a circular saw or format cutting machine.

The device can be made made of plywood, chipboard or MDF. The cutting card indicates a material thickness of 19 mm, but this is not a prerequisite. The table can also be assembled from slabs with a thickness of 16 or 18 mm. Of course, to make a countertop it is better to use laminated or plastic-coated sheet materials, which will allow the workpiece to easily slide across the surface.

It should also be noted that this homemade table is intended for installation on trestles. If you need a tabletop option, then the drawers (5) need to be made much wider than 150 mm. Their width should be slightly larger than the height of the device so that it can fit under the countertop.

If the table parts are cut from plywood or MDF, then their ends should be sanded. The ends of parts made from laminated chipboard will need to be covered with a melamine edge using an ordinary iron.

Making a countertop

Installation of the router into the table can be done either with or without the use of a mounting plate. Preparing the countertop for direct mounting the unit is connected to it as follows.

1. Since the main slab is 900mm long, its center will be 450mm from the edge. Place a dot in this place and use a square to draw a line.
2. Remove the plastic pad from the base of the device.
3. Find the middle of the cut on the overlay and draw a line through the center of the sole using a square.
4. Place the overlay on the center line of the main plate so that the center of the sole coincides with it, and mark the center of the future hole in the tabletop with a pencil.
   
   
5. Next, you should make markings for the mounting screws.
   
   
6. Drill holes through which the unit will be attached to the table. Be sure to countersink them so that the screw heads are slightly recessed into the tabletop.
7. Drill a 38mm diameter center hole.
8. The next step is make a parallel emphasis. Using a jigsaw or router, make semicircular cuts on the front wall of the stop, as well as on its base.
9. Screw the gussets to the stops. Below is a drawing that shows all the indentations for placing gussets.
   
   
10. Screw the connecting strips to the bottom of the tabletop.
    
    
11. Assemble the milling machine using the diagram provided below.
    
    

Mounting the unit using a mounting plate

When installing the device on the main plate, its thickness significantly reduces the overhang of the cutter. Therefore, to install the unit on thick countertops, it is customary to use thinner mounting plates made of durable materials (steel, duralumin, polycarbonate, getinax or fiberglass). The plate is made as follows.

1. From a sheet, for example, textolite, cut a square blank 300 x 300 mm.
2. Attach the plastic pad removed from the router base to the top of the plate.
3. Select a drill bit that matches the diameter of the mounting screws and drill holes in the plate using the plastic trim as a template.
   
4. Place the plate on the tabletop and trace it with a pencil. After this, inside the resulting outline, draw a square with cut corners, as shown in the following figure.
   
   
5. This figure with beveled corners must be cut out with a jigsaw, having previously drilled a hole in it for the saw to enter.
6. After cutting out the inner part around the outer contour, you should secure the strips using clamps. They will serve template for rolling cutter. The thickness of the strips must be sufficient so that when setting the processing depth, the thrust bearing of the cutter is in the area of ​​the edge of the guides.
   
   
7. To mill the recess, secure a rolling cutter with an upper bearing in the collet of the unit.
   
   
8. Set the processing depth. It should be equal to the thickness of the plate intended for mounting the unit.
9. Mill this section of the tabletop according to the established template in several passes.
10. Place the plate in the made recess. It should be flush with the surface of the main plate. If the plate protrudes a little, then add a little more immersion depth using a micrometer screw and make a second pass with the cutter.
11. At the corners of the sample, mark and drill holes for fastening the plate.
    
    
12. Place the mounting plate in the prepared seat and, holding it, turn the tabletop over. Then drill holes in the plate for fasteners. To hide the bolt heads, countersink holes on the face of the trim.
13. Also, all holes on the back side of the tabletop intended for fastening the plate should be widened to accommodate self-locking nuts using a drill with a diameter of 11 mm. The nuts need to be placed in the resulting holes using epoxy glue (you can screw bolts into them for alignment).

Improvement of the stop

The parallel fence can be modified to make setting up the milling table more convenient and quick: to do this, you need to cut C-shaped guides into the tabletop. The profile can be made of aluminum. A straight groove cutter is used for tapping. The profile is placed in the prepared groove and screwed in place.

Next, you should select bolts with a hex head of such a size that it can fit into the C-shaped profile and not rotate in it. Drill 2 holes in the base of the rip fence to match the diameter of the bolt.

You should also cut a C-shaped profile into the front stop bar to attach various clamps and protective covers to it.

The stop is screwed to the tabletop using wing nuts.

On the back side of the stop you can make chamber for connecting a vacuum cleaner. To do this, just cut a square out of plywood, drill a hole in it for the vacuum cleaner pipe and screw the resulting cover to the gussets.

You can also add to the stop safety shield, made of MDF or laminated chipboard and a small rectangle of plexiglass. To select grooves, you can use a jigsaw or a router with a groove cutter installed.

To be able to process small parts, it is necessary to make clamps and clamps from plywood or MDF.

It is made on a circular saw with a pitch between cuts of 2 mm.

If desired, you can make a milling table with tool boxes.

Making the table base

If you need to make a stationary machine from a manual milling machine, then you cannot do without making a solid base. Below is a cutting map with the parts marked on it that will be required to assemble the table base. The dimensions of the parts will need to be adjusted if you use sheet material of a different thickness.

All parts of the table for a manual router are assembled using confirmations. To make it easier to move the table, rollers can be attached to its bottom. If you expand this table a little and attach a circular hand saw in its free part, you will get universal table for router and circular saw.

To make the machine take up less space, it can be made according to the principle of a table-book with table tops lowering on both sides.

Homemade tools for a router

To expand the functionality of this unit, quite expensive accessories are available for sale. But in order to save money, owners of milling cutters try to make various devices with their own hands that work no worse than factory ones.

A simple tenon cutter for a router is made from two pieces of plywood and a pair of furniture telescopic guides. The milling cutter is installed on a platform that has a hole for the tool. The platform is attached to the workbench at an angle (for more convenient positioning of the equipment in height), as shown in the photo below.

So, the tenoning device is made in the following order.

1. Cut out 2 platforms of the same size from plywood. The size of the device can be any.
2. Place two telescopic guides parallel to each other along the edges of the first platform and fasten them with screws.
   
   
3. For more precise positioning of the guides, you can screw two strips of equal length between them.
   
   
4. You should extend the counter strips and place a second platform under them flush with the first. Use a pencil to place points through the bar on the second site, and then draw a line through them.
5. Remove the strikers from the guides by pressing the plastic “antennae” located on their reverse side.
6. Place the strikers on the marked area so that the line passes through the center of the mounting holes, and screw them in with screws.
   
   
7. Carefully align the 2 guides and push them in (you should hear a click). If you insert a part askew, you will break the telescopes and balls will spill out of them.
   
   
8. Between the vertical stop with the unit and the movable table it is necessary maintain a certain distance. This is done so that when lowering the cutter it does not touch the table platform. Since in this case the maximum overhang of the cutter will be about 25 mm, you can temporarily lay a bar of the same width, that is, 25 mm, between the table and the stop. The bar will allow you to place the structure parallel to the vertical stop
   
   .
9. At the next stage, holding the fixture, drill 2 holes for the dowels. They will allow you to quickly position the tenoner on the workbench. When the holes are ready, insert a couple of dowels into them. Now you can remove the bar placed between the stop and the device.
   
   
10. Now that the movable table is fixed, a vertical stop must be installed on its upper platform, as shown in the following figure. For rigidity, the stop is supported by two gussets.
    
    
11. When all tenoning elements are secured, testing can begin. Place the workpiece on the fixture table and press it against the stop. Set the required cutter height, turn on the unit and mill the workpiece.
    
    
12. After the first pass, turn the workpiece 180 degrees and repeat the processing.
    
    
13. Rotate the workpiece 90 degrees, placing it on the edge, and repeat the operation again.
    
    
14. Rotate the part 180 degrees and finish the tenon.
    
    

As a result, you will get an even and high-quality tenon.

By changing the height of the cutter relative to the tenoning platform, you can obtain tenons of various thicknesses.

Copy sleeve

If your router did not come with a copy sleeve, then you can make one in literally 30 minutes using improvised materials. For homemade work, you will need a metal or duralumin washer, which can be made from sheet metal, and a plumbing threaded extension.

The copy sleeve is made in the following way.

1. Select a nut that fits the threads of the extension and cut it with a grinder so that you get a thin ring. After this, straighten it on the sharpening machine.
   
   
2. It is necessary to make a round platform for the sleeve from sheet metal or aluminum 2 mm thick. Depending on the model of the unit, the hole in its base may have different shape. In this case, the platform must have cuts on the sides, which are ground off on a sharpening machine.
   
   
3. After sanding off the washer on both sides, place it on the sole of the unit.
   
   
4. Place the unit vertically without removing the washer and mark with a pencil the places for fastening through the holes in the base of the unit.
   
   
5. The places marked with a pencil must be marked for precise positioning of the drill.
   
   
   
6. First, drill the holes with a thin drill bit, and then with a drill bit that matches the diameter of the mounting bolt.
   
   
   
7. Place the washer on the threaded extension and tighten the ring nut. Clamp the part in a vice and trim the excess thread flush with the nut using a grinder.
   
   
   
8. Clamp the part in a vice with the other side and shorten it slightly.
   
   
9. Align the part on the grinding wheel, insert it into the base of the device and secure it with screws. The ring nut should be slightly below the base of the unit.
   
   
   

   

Guides for working with a router

If you need to select a very long groove in the workpiece, you will need a tool for the router, which is called a tire. Ready-made metal tires can be purchased in specialized stores. But they are also easy to make with your own hands from plastic, plywood or MDF.

The thickness of the material should be about 10 mm so that the parts can be tightened with screws.

The guide for the unit is very simple to make.

1. Cut three strips on a circular saw. One wide, about 200 mm, and 2 narrow ones - 140 and 40 mm each.
2. Also make a small strip from the same material, about 300 mm long and 20 mm wide.
3. Place a 140 mm wide piece on a wide strip, align it along the edge and screw both pieces together with screws.
4. Place a narrow strip 40 mm wide on top of the wide strip, opposite the screwed part. For precise positioning, place a 20 mm wide strip between the upper parts and screw the narrow strip to the lower part with screws. Thus, you will get a long tire with a groove 20 mm wide.
5. Take a 20 mm wide strip and screw it to the base of the device, as shown in the following photo. To select a groove, select straight or shaped groove cutter and is fixed in the collet of the device.

When all the fixtures are prepared, follow these steps. Place the workpiece that needs to be processed along its entire length on the workbench, place the tire on it, securing it with clamps. Insert the strip attached to the router sole into the groove of the guide. Start the machine and mill the workpiece along its entire length.

If you need to select a deep groove, then processing occurs in several passes so that the equipment is immersed into the workpiece gradually.

A milling cutter is the most frequently used tool of a self-respecting craftsman. Thanks to it, we can make things we know with incredible ease. There are operations in carpentry that cannot be performed without this tool.

The milling cutter consists of a motor, a collet for attaching interchangeable cutters, a speed controller, and a vertical rod. In the model range of any manufacturer there are many models with different capacities. A hand router is a fairly universal electrical device that has wide potential and capabilities. It becomes possible to improve the router by installing it on a horizontal surface, which will allow you to process fairly large workpieces with minimal effort.

Purpose of the milling table

Installing a router in a table or workbench allows you to achieve good results in the manufacture of many products. This is an indispensable tool in furniture production. Since this process often requires trimming the edges of the canvases, making shaped grooves and recesses.

Such tables can be found in large stores that sell tools. The cost of such equipment directly depends on the functionality and material from which they are made. But even with the most minimal set of functions, but with high-quality coverage, the price for such a product is quite high. For a simple amateur who practices for his own pleasure in the garage, the price is unaffordable. The solution is a homemade table for a router.

Before you start purchasing material for your future table, you should decide on its functionality. Let's consider the main capabilities of a manual milling cutter and its machine version.

Operations with a hand router

• Figured or straight processing of the ends or edges of workpieces.
• Drilling holes of various shapes for installing furniture fittings.
• Removing a quarter of the thickness.
• Grinding and cutting of workpieces.
• Drilling.
• Finishing the cut area.
• Removing grooves for splines and grooves.

Milling table operations

A DIY router table allows you to perform operations such as:

• parallel finishing cutting;
• trimming surfaces and long edges;
• quarter sample;
• finishing edges.

From the list it becomes clear that all the same operations are performed on a milling table as with a conventional manual router, but only with greater accuracy and quality. In addition, the dimensions of the workpieces are already many times larger.

Choosing a hand router

For a tiny workshop, purchasing a separate router is an unaffordable luxury. Therefore, a router table will be required with a quick release router design. This means that it will work in two versions, both on the table and in manual mode. To do this you will need a quality power tool.

There are two types of hand router:

• submersible;
• cross-cutting

Their names speak volumes about their functionality. Since the cross-cut milling machine is highly specialized, its further consideration will not be interesting for the reader.

According to power, electric tools are classified into:

• low power - from 500 to 1100 Watts;
• average power - from 1200 to 1800 Watts;
• high power - from 1900 to 2500 watts.

Professionals advise using low-power milling cutters to process small workpieces; this allows for maximum ease of use. In this case, you will have to make passes in several approaches, removing a small thickness, layer by layer. However, such routers cannot be installed on a special table. Milling cutters with a power of about 2000 watts are suitable for these purposes.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following capabilities of the tool:

• maximum depth of lowering the stand;
• soft start;
• availability of spindle speed adjustment;
• dynamic brake;
• maintaining the number of revolutions under load.
• chip removal system.

All these parameters determine the quality of a manual router, which will be useful both in manual mode and in machine mode.

Milling table device

Any milling table consists of the following elements:

• directly from the router itself;
• countertops;
• parallel stop;
• chip removal systems;
• boxes for storing spare parts and various cutters;
• horizontal clamp.

Depending on the functional tasks of the milling table, it can be manufactured in the following options:

• side table top with router;
• stationary tabletop;
• stationary tabletop with parallel support;
• stationary tabletop with parallel stop, with vertical router lift, cross feed of the router.

Materials

How to make a table for a router? What should a person who decides to do this business have in his arsenal? First, we need a drawing of a table for a manual router. It's not difficult to find. Therefore, making a table for a manual router is quite possible. There are also plenty of detailed tutorials and videos of local craftsmen showing off their creations. There are models that are so multifunctional that they combine, in addition to a milling table, a drilling, grinding and cutting table.

Almost any material is suitable for production. They mainly use sheets of chipboard, laminated plywood or ordinary plywood with a thickness of at least 8 millimeters. You will also need countersunk wood screws, aluminum corners (for furniture), and PVA glue.

Assembly

Let's look at how to assemble the simplest table for a router with your own hands. We will make it from laminated plywood. Let's take the tabletop size to be 400 millimeters wide and 400 millimeters long. A laminated board is perfect for the countertop. It has a number of advantages compared to plywood:

• wear-resistant surface;
• low cost;
• quick replacement.

However, we decided to make the table for the hand router from laminated plywood. Carefully cut it to the intended size. The legs will be made of the same material. Step back from the edges 20-30 centimeters and fasten the legs to the tabletop, pre-coat the joints with glue and make two or three holes for tightening the screws.

We make the following technological holes in the tabletop:

• large round for exiting the collet with the cutter;
• parallel groove for fastening the guide;
• You can make a small groove for attaching a ruler.

The rip fence can be made from the same materials as the table top. The stop consists of two parts, the interface runs exactly in the center of the installed cutter. They must move independently of each other. To increase milling capabilities, it is desirable that the rip fence has two degrees of freedom. That is, it could tilt relative to the tabletop and turn parallel to it. This will allow you to make products with complex shapes.

Among other things, a recess with a square-shaped cover is made on the back side of the parallel stop, and a vacuum cleaner pipe is inserted into one end. As a rule, the chip removal system is made on two sides, one on top behind the stop, the second directly next to the router collet.

This is the simplest DIY router table. In the future, you can modify and install a lift for convenient adjustment of the height and horizontal reach of the cutter.

Additional accessories

Since a manual router installed in a table is an electric tool, an external switch can be built into the table for safety. This will allow you to conveniently and safely turn the device on and off when necessary. Here you can install additional sockets for connecting a portable lamp or hand drill.

If there is sufficient free space, milling tables measuring 1500 by 1500 millimeters and a height of one and a half meters are made. You get full-fledged workbenches. At the same time, they have pull-out shelves in which it is convenient to store various cutters and a key for changing the spindle. A large table allows you to process large sheets of plywood or other material so often used in the manufacture of furniture or doors. Such a table increases the accuracy of processed parts and reduces the percentage of defects during manufacturing.

Safety

It is worth remembering that tables for wood routers are sources of increased danger. The rotation speed of the cutter reaches 25,000 rpm. Any awkward movement will lead to irreparable consequences. Hands should be kept at the maximum safe distance from the rotating head; the cutter should be changed with the machine stopped and de-energized.

When working, you need to wear special glasses that will protect your eyes from small chips. The noise level during operation is quite high; appropriate precautions should be taken. Keep children away from the router.

Professional woodworkers treat their router table with great respect. And not by chance. After all, a convenient and properly arranged workbench is the key to high productivity and increased efficiency of the work process. On sale you can find models of tables for every taste, but often their cost is so high that not every craftsman can afford such a purchase.

However, everyone can make a suitable milling table on their own, adjusting it to their personal needs and habits. And it is not necessary to buy expensive branded products or their Chinese analogues. With a little work, you will not only save a lot, but most importantly, in the end you will get your own table, working at which you will be able to produce exactly the carpentry that you require faster and with much better quality.

The manufacturer cannot predict the needs of each potential buyer and builds basic capabilities into its products. You may simply never need many of them, and some that you need may not be included in the design of the table.

To make your own milling table, you don’t need anything fancy or too expensive. All you need is an electric motor, a guide structure and the table itself, a stable frame on which the equipment and additional accessories will be fixed. And, of course, your own drawing of a milling table.

Why do you need a milling machine and what is its purpose?

The principle of working with a hand-held milling tool is that the milling cutter moves along the surface of a securely fixed workpiece that needs to be processed in a certain way. The problem is that this is often not very convenient. Therefore, they resort to a trick: they attach the router itself and move the part. The resulting design is called a “milling table”.

Using milling tables, you can easily make shaped holes, cut grooves, securely connect parts, for example, the walls of drawers, etc., perform edge profiling and many other operations that are only available in specialized carpentry workshops that have milling machines.

Using milling tables for a manual router, you get the opportunity to process not only wooden products, but also chipboard, plastic, MDF, make joints on tenons and tongues, make grooves and splines, chamfer and decorate profiles.

In addition, milling tables can be used as woodworking machines. To do this, a tool is fixed in the drill stand or on a workbench - and the machine is ready. Therefore, many companies began to produce milling tables in a wide range with a lot of additional accessories for them. However, a competently made table for a router with your own hands is in no way inferior to branded ones, and sometimes even surpasses them.

How do milling tables work?

To work with a hand router on a table, you can use a regular workbench or build a special table. This table is distinguished by a rigid design with good stability. This is necessary given the strong vibrations caused by the operating router. Since the tool is attached from below, there should be nothing under the tabletop that interferes with the work. Only the router itself for the milling table and, if necessary, a lift device that provides precise and smooth adjustment of the lift of the cutter.

The router is attached to the table using a mounting plate. The material for it must be of high quality and durable. It is best to use textolite, metal or plywood. The plastic trim mounts on the router base usually have threaded connections that can be used to secure the router to the router table top. On the surface of the future table, you should select a groove for the mounting plate so that the base of the router is flush. The plate must be secured with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads so that they do not interfere with the future movement of the workpieces being processed.

The router itself is also attached to the table using countersunk screws, attaching it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes in the base of the tool, you must drill them yourself. As an alternative, it is possible to use clamping devices if there is no desire to drill into the base of the router.

On the milling table, be sure to install a button to turn the router on and off. It is also highly advisable to equip the table with an emergency mushroom button for the safety of the person working at it. To ensure reliable fastening of the workpieces, clamping devices are installed. It is convenient to use a milling rotary table. To measure, a ruler is usually built into the surface of the table.

Types of milling tables

When starting to make a milling table, you should first of all decide on a place for it in your workshop. It depends on what features you plan to use. This could be a side extension of the sawing machine, that is, an aggregate table.

If you only plan to work on the router table occasionally and use it outside the workshop, build a portable table. It can always be removed or hung on the wall, thereby saving space.

If there is enough space in the workshop, then a stationary table for a milling machine will be most convenient. It can be equipped with wheels and moved as needed.

Both portable and stationary desks can be stowed away for periods of time, but still remain ready for specific tasks at all times. To do this, they are configured in advance.

Simple table design

If you want a device of a simple design, you can make it of small height and then attach it to an ordinary table. To do this, take a sheet of chipboard and a simple board, which should be secured to the sheet as a guide. The board should be thin and fastened with bolts.

After this you need to make a hole for the cutter. In a simple version, you can leave it at that - the resulting design will allow you to perform simple milling operations. However, if you want to make a milling table for more thorough work, you will have to spend a little more time and effort.

Manufacturing of the bed

For any milling machine, the bed is its frame, onto which the tabletop is attached on top. The base can be made of any material, the main thing is that it is strong and stable. The size of the bed is selected individually, based on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on the machine.

When making a machine, it is advisable to make its lower part in such a way that the person standing in front of it does not rest his feet on the frame. To do this, the lowest part of the bed is deepened (like ordinary furniture) by about 10-20 centimeters.

If you plan to process door trims, then it would be appropriate to make a table 85-90 cm high, 50-55 cm deep and 150 cm wide.

For convenience when working while standing, the height of the table is taken to be about 85-90 cm. In this case, it is advisable to use adjustable supports in the table design, which allow you to level milling tables for a manual router in the presence of uneven floors or, if necessary, change the height.

Table top for a homemade table

Since the workpieces slide well on plastic, a good option would be to use a 26-26 cm thick chipboard kitchen panel as a tabletop for the milling table. Its depth of 60 cm will also be convenient for use, and the chipboard material itself will perfectly dampen the vibrations produced by the router during operation .

As a last resort, when making milling machine tables, you can use laminated chipboard or MDF boards with a thickness of 1.6 cm.

Mounting plate

Since the kitchen countertop is quite thick, to maintain the amplitude of the cutter's reach, the router should be attached to the table using a mounting plate. Despite its small thickness, it is highly durable and will reliably hold the tool without losing the working stroke of the cutter.

Using a mounting plate made of textolite (fiberglass), you should cut out a rectangular blank 5-8 mm thick and sides from 15 to 30 cm. In the center of the plate, cut a hole corresponding to the hole in the base of the milling tool. The plate is attached to the surface of the table, and a router is installed on it.

Assembling the table for the router

After the frame is made, the tabletop is temporarily attached to it. A mounting plate is installed on a previously prepared place and its outline is traced with a pencil. Then, using a hand router with a cutter with a diameter of 5-9 mm, you should select a seat for it in the tabletop. The plate should fit flush into it and without distortion.

The corners of the seat must be rounded with a file. The same operation must be carried out with the mounting plate - process its corners with the same radius as in the seat.

After this, you should carry out through milling of the tabletop along the contours of the router sole. This does not require special precision, but you will probably still need to select additional material from the bottom of the tabletop for a dust collector and some other additional accessories.

All that remains is to connect all the parts together. Having started the router from below, we fix it on the mounting plate, then we fasten the plate to the tabletop. We finally screw the tabletop to the frame.

We arrange the upper pressure

As an additional safety measure and for convenience, the milling table is equipped with an upper clamp - a roller-based device made according to the drawings. This is especially true when working with door trims, as well as when making dimensional parts. The design of the upper clamp is simple.

A ball bearing of suitable size will perform the task of the roller. The bearing must be rigidly fixed at a certain distance from the tabletop so that it provides reliable clamping of the workpiece from above.

Milling machine drive

If your choice is to make a simple machine, pay attention to the electric motor for it. Power is the main factor of choice. If the tree sampling is planned to be shallow, then a power of 500 W will be enough for you. To ensure that the machine does not stop constantly and meets your expectations, choose a motor with a power of 1100 W or more. Such a drive will allow you not only to safely process any wood, but also to use various cutters.

A homemade milling table can be improved indefinitely, depending on your requirements and desires. But the most important thing is not to forget about safety and be sure to equip your machine with the means to ensure it.

A milling machine is a professional woodworking tool that requires special installation. For installation, a milling table can be used, which is rarely found on sale, and those that are on the market cost a lot of money. Therefore, it is much easier to make a milling table with your own hands. It is the presence of a special machine that allows you to optimize the work as much as possible, make it safe and process workpieces more quickly. This is due to the fact that it is not the tool (milling cutter) that moves along the material being processed, but the part that moves along the resulting machine. Below we will describe how to make a homemade milling table.

The quality of work largely depends on the choice of table for a milling machine.

Selecting material and type of table

Professional carpenters always try to make themselves a specialized milling machine. It not only simplifies the work, but also allows you to make more accurate and accurate cuts that will not differ from factory ones. Many foreign companies offer some models of specialized machines for milling, but these models are either not well thought out (not ergonomic and inconvenient) or cost a lot of money, which will take a long time to pay off. A homemade machine made for yourself will save money and be convenient during operation. To make a machine for yourself, you must first decide on the type of its design.

MDF boards or wood of various species are usually used as a tabletop for a milling table.

In principle, all types of machines can be divided into 3 types:

• free-standing (personal, non-portable);
• portable (small portable);
• expandable (stand - wing to table).

Deciding on the type is quite simple, for which you need to know the operating time on the machine. For continuous and long-term work, you should choose a separate machine. If you rarely use the tool, a portable one will do. An attachment or wing to the table is suitable if there is little free space. The advantages of a free-standing table include the fact that when working with the tool for a long time, it can not be turned off.

To make machines, you can use MDF boards (for the table top), pine boards (a relatively cheap material) or boards made of any other material. It is much easier to use MDF. This is the cheapest material for furniture production and is easy to process. If financial opportunity allows, then preference should be given to natural wood.

Special mention must be made about metal. Some people consider metal to be the most durable material, and they are right. Metal is much stronger than wood, but it has significant disadvantages. For example, it is an ideal conductor, so it is not recommended to mount an electrical device on such a surface. Another drawback is the weight. You should be concerned about the strength of the legs, which must withstand not only the surface of the table, but also the sum of the masses of the tool, parts and workpieces, and the weight of a person. In addition, in winter, in an unheated room, the metal will be cold and create discomfort for the working master; the metal may rust. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to avoid metal.

Design details

To make a good multifunctional table, you should know the operating principle of the router.

In order to make a good machine, you need to know how a milling cutter works and how best to process workpieces with it.

Thus, a milling cutter is primarily used for processing the longitudinal edge of a part. If it is necessary to mill grooves across the workpiece, it is recommended to provide a special groove in the design for the stop-carriage. In addition to the above-described function, additional clamps can be attached to the groove for better processing of the workpiece.

A stop placed longitudinally, which will serve as a guide for the materials being processed, will significantly simplify the work. This stop must be perfectly flat and even, the working plane of the stop must be perpendicular to the plane of the table surface, and the stop itself must be movable. The latter is required to adjust to the dimensions of the parts being processed. With proper manufacturing of such a stop, the machine will be able not only to mill, but also to joint (plane) materials. A groove should be provided in the stop that will allow the installation of auxiliary tools. It can also be equipped with mounts for a vacuum cleaner hose, which, when working as a blower, will allow you to quickly clean the surface being treated from shavings and sawdust, improving visibility.

A properly made milling table with metal plates will allow you to quickly change the cutter if necessary.

But the most important thing is the method of attaching the router. To fasten tools, metal tabletops are usually used, which are in the form of a small plate that is attached to the tabletop. The router is attached to this plate with screws or bolts in specially made holes. Using such a mini-surface will save up to 1 cm in milling depth, you can quickly dismantle (install) the tool and fix the tool more smoothly to the metal tabletop.

The speed of removing the router from such a plate will allow you to very quickly replace the cutter on it. There is also a gain in terms of fastening. So, if fastening a tool on a wooden tabletop requires very careful leveling of the surface, it is necessary to drill holes in the right places, which for another model of the tool may not be suitable both in diameter and in attachment points, then in the case of a metal mini-surface, the surface of the boards is aligned only at the place where the metal sheet is attached, the attachment points will always be static, which will allow you to quickly change the tool if necessary. Each router has its own mounting points, so before installing it, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with its drawings.

Installing the router using the drawings will not be difficult - just drill the holes, maintaining the dimensions (distances between them).

Table manufacturing procedure

A properly assembled milling table allows you to process a variety of surfaces.

A primitive homemade table may look like this: a tabletop made of MDF, fixed on 4 legs, on (under) which a tool is installed, a board is fixed on the tabletop - a guide, which can be fixed to the table with clamps. This is the simplest option. However, it is irrational, because part of the tabletop (at least 50%) will not be used during the work; in addition, there is a high probability of uneven installation of the router, which will cut uneven grooves. It is more rational to use this design on the folding wing of the table. This will significantly save space in the workshop and rationally use the work surface.

The next option differs from the previous one in its advanced capabilities. So, a hole is made in the middle of the table for mounting the tool, a guide board is made with a groove for processing thin workpieces, and fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, a groove is made (at some distance from the router), which will allow the workpiece to be milled at an angle.

The portable machine is very easy to iron. Small legs are attached to the tabletop (the size is equal to the length of the router +5-7 cm). The dimensions of the tabletop itself are minimal, allowing you to install only a router +15-20 cm. This option will be mobile (portable), but it will be inconvenient to work on it for a long time. This mini-machine is suitable for extremely rare tool use.

Individual workplace

Let's consider making a “serious” table for a router.

First, it’s worth talking about the sizes. On average, the size can be 1 x 1 or 1 x 0.7 (0.8) m. This will not only allow you to work comfortably on the table, but also place other auxiliary items on it. A frame (legs, which should be attached not only to the tabletop, but also have an additional tie) is knocked under the tabletop.

Then they work on the tabletop. To make it, you should knock down the boards (to the required size), carefully plan them with a plane and sand them with sandpaper so that there is an almost smooth surface. Then plywood is glued onto the tabletop. This will make the surface almost perfectly flat. To prevent the plywood from peeling off under the influence of vibrations, it should be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. When the glue dries and the plywood is secured to the tabletop with self-tapping screws, a hole is cut in the middle of the tabletop for mounting the router. The hole should be rectangular in shape and have dimensions equal to the size of the router + 50-100 mm in length and width.

The surface of the milling table top should be flat and smooth.

The next step is to prepare a metal plate to which the router will be attached. It should have a size equal to the size of the hole + 2.5-3 cm in length and width. Tool mounting points are determined locally.

Next, you should install a guide board or stop. The latter is preferable. It is better to make the stop movable (as described above) and double so that it can be used to clamp the material. Mobility is ensured by grooves along the entire length of the table into which metal guides are inserted. An anchor is made on the stops themselves, which will fit into the guides. It can be cut out of wood or wheels can be attached to a stop.

For ease of work, grooves are cut into the tabletop, which will allow you to process workpieces at an angle. Their width and distance between them is determined by the master. Several drawers for tools can be attached to the bed. In order for the table to have a pleasant appearance, you should make slopes on the table top and legs. and also varnish all surfaces.

Such a table will allow you to quickly process workpieces without straining, which will make the time of wood processing enjoyable.