Easiest bathroom renovation ever. Secrets and nuances. These under-sink coasters will virtually wipe out the clutter in your jars.

One day, the time finally comes to every house when it is simply no longer possible to postpone the repair of the bathroom with your own hands, because the old tiles and wallpaper that the walls are pasted over have lost their attractive appearance or, even worse, they gradually began to lag behind even the surface, and all pipes just rusted to an impossible state.

The desire to make repairs becomes even stronger along with the fact that more and more various materials appear on the shelves of building materials that can quickly and at an affordable cost turn even a small room into a “euro” class room that all guests of the house will admire.

If you are interested in the instructions for repairing a bathroom, then the main point that you should understand from it is that the sequence of actions during the repair must be followed. Then even the mistakes made can be eliminated without problems without spending more time and effort.

Difficulties with self-repair

Many builders say that the most difficult stage of repair is all those actions that will need to be done due to the characteristics of the room.

For this reason, it is especially important to approach the choice of materials that will be used in the future for finishing the ceiling and walls, since all materials used must be waterproof.

Also difficult are the works associated with the dismantling of equipment and various coatings. It is much easier to renovate a bathroom and toilet in a new building, since the room in it is usually no more than a couple of square meters.

Before you start doing repairs yourself, be sure to disassemble the whole process in detail, since it will be necessary to take into account all the details of installing equipment and materials during the work.

The nuances of bathroom renovation

Firstly, in order to avoid the formation of fungus, in no case should you equip a cavity between the decorative and main surfaces. For the same reason, it is forbidden to finish any walls with plasterboard, which is water resistant and plastic.

Secondly, in accordance with existing building codes, you should not install switches and sockets during repairs.

There are options for how to get around this limitation, but still do not forget about high humidity levels, which cause a fairly high risk of electric shock.

Thirdly, during the renovation of the bathroom, it is better not to use materials that are prone to decay or are hygroscopic, corrosive.

Fourthly, when the area of the renovated premises is small enough, it makes sense to install a modern shower cabin instead of a large bathroom.

Ceramic tiles: the nuances of use

A rather important issue is the choice of ceramic tiles for walls when you start renovating a bathroom in Khrushchev, since quite a lot of different criteria must be taken into account here.

First of all, you should know that all the tiles used to finish wall and floor surfaces today are divided into different grades, which you can find out by carefully examining the packaging. The manufacturer is obliged to indicate it.

Taking into account international standards, bright red is used today to designate the highest grade, bright blue for the second grade, and green for the third grade, respectively.

If you dwell in detail on the highest grade of tiles, you can see a 5% deviation from the norm, which is considered acceptable today.

When buying the second grade, you can see about 1⁄4 of the tiles with defects. Therefore, if you decide to save money, do not be surprised later that in almost every tile of the batch there will be one or another deviation from the standard that has been set. Of course, a photo of a bathroom renovation in the future is unlikely to become a model for other apartment owners who decide to upgrade a bathroom.

When buying tiles, be sure to take at least a small supply. Since laying marriage is almost inevitable, a certain amount is required with full shade matching.

When choosing a floor covering, look at bathroom renovation ideas, for sure you will be able to find interesting options there. One of the most popular materials today is porcelain stoneware, as well as special tiles designed exclusively for the floor. The materials have good strength indicators, they have a slightly rough surface, which is especially important for the bathroom.

When buying several packs at once, do not forget to check the specified batch number on each of the selected packages, and also check the size of the tile. If you notice that the difference is more than one millimeter, then it is better to take another package.

Buy all the materials necessary for repairs with a margin, since a few percent of their total amount will be written off for trimming and fighting.

Making your own quick repairs in the bathroom may not be as easy as it seems at first glance due to the small size of the room. Nevertheless, if you make all the necessary efforts, use high-quality materials and tools, everyone can cope with the task.

Photo of bathroom renovation

Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is worth considering in any case: payment for work is at least 50% of the cost of materials, that is, self-repair will cost at least one and a half times cheaper, and repairing a bathroom and toilet is expensive in itself. But you need to approach the matter with all responsibility: repairing a bathroom requires not only thorough knowledge, but also quite high skill. Therefore, first of all, you should calculate the costs of self-repair, then carefully study the proposals of professionals and, if there is a master or a company that is ready to repair the bathroom inexpensively compared to your estimated costs, then contact them. In any case, we begin preparations for repairs with a study of prices.

Prices and costs

Materials for bathroom renovation must be chosen carefully. In addition to the usual parameters, the moisture absorption coefficient matters (a bathroom is a room with high humidity), the coefficient of thermal expansion (sudden temperature changes are frequent in the bathroom) and porosity - it is important from a sanitary and hygienic point of view. So you can’t count on “if only it’s cheaper” in any way.

Most likely, it will not be possible to find exact data on the parameters of materials, and it is difficult for a non-specialist to understand them, so you should choose materials specifically designed for bathrooms or for outdoor use. The prices for materials suitable for bathroom renovation are approximately the following:

Floor tiles - from 40 rubles / piece (30x30 cm) made in the CIS and from 60 rubles / piece made in Europe with not the best quality, but often the best decor.
Tiles for walls - the price per piece is the same, but the size of one tile is smaller.
Ceramic granite tiles - from 50 rubles / piece.
Glue, cross-stitches, grout for tiles - plus 50% of the cost per unit area.
Glass-magnesite sheet (SML) 1220x2440 mm - from 250 rubles / sheet.
Laminate - from 300 rubles / board 300x2950 mm.
Self-leveling floor - from 220 rubles / 10 liters of finished compound.
The same, with the effect of warming (ThermoPlast compound) - from 640 rubles / sq.m.
Teak or larch floor - from 500 rubles / sq.m.
Polypropylene pipes PPN for cold water - from 24 rubles / sq.m.
The same PPR for hot water (reinforced) - from 35 rubles / sq.m.
Sewer pipes 50 mm - from 45 rubles / sq.m.
Fittings for pipelines and valves - 60% of the price of pipes.
PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles / pack of 5 liters.

Based on these prices and knowing the area of the floor, ceiling and walls in your bathroom, you can estimate how much it costs to renovate a bathroom on your own. When calculating, you need to take into account the following:

You will not need all the names of the materials. The selection criteria for a particular case are indicated below in the description of the stages of work.
All of these materials are equivalent in terms of the quality of the final result. The use of cheaper materials only complicates the choice and delays the work.
For the battle and waste of small tiles, a margin of 3-5% should be given by the piece: say, 300 pieces come out over the area. on the floor. You need to buy 310-315. If a small bathroom is being renovated, 5-7% should be put on retreat and battle.
Waste of board materials is calculated in preparation for the corresponding stage of work, see below for sections.
For other materials (cement, sand, putty, silicone, etc.), you need to add 35-40% to the amount received.
The total do-it-yourself work time will be at least 2 weeks for the bath and toilet and at least 2 months when replacing the floor screed.
Prices for plumbing fixtures depend on your choice of names and manufacturers.

Adviсe:

Focusing on prices, be sure to ask potential contractors not only the total cost of the work, but also their prices for individual materials. Suppliers give a discount to good craftsmen, and prices will be lower than store prices. If it comes out more expensive, turn to someone else: before you are either greedy hacks, or clumsy.

When choosing a heated towel rail, consider a custom stainless steel option. Chrome-plated brass is most often more expensive, and other varieties are either very expensive (as, for example, with additional electric heating) or are of no good quality.

Also consider buying a faucet with an infrared sensor. It automatically turns on when hands are brought to it and gives water at a pre-set temperature. The device is not cheap, but the real savings are about 50% (half!) of water and 35-40% of electricity for heating it.

Sequence of work

Let's say you decide that you can do an economical bathroom renovation on your own. In this case, you need to know that bathroom renovation work is carried out in a certain sequence:

The choice of the number and range of plumbing fixtures.
Development of design and choice of its colors.
Quantity calculation and purchase of finishing materials.
Room preparation.
Revision of the condition of the floor and the choice of a method for its repair.
Procurement of materials for floor repair.
Floor repair: waterproofing, screed replacement, insulation.
Laying of pipelines.
Electrical wiring.
and ceiling.
Ceiling decoration: insulation and cladding.
Floor covering.
Wall finishing: cladding, grouting, sealing corners.
Ventilation installation.
Installation and installation of plumbing.

As you can see, the recommended sequence of work is somewhat different from the traditional one. Explanations follow in the text; we, before describing how to make repairs in the bathroom, will additionally clarify some important points:

A warm, damp bath is a favorable environment for the reproduction of microorganisms. Therefore, finishing methods like drywall on the crate are not considered: any blind cavity in the wall will sooner or later become a hotbed of infection.
According to the degree of risk of electric shock, a bathroom is a particularly dangerous room: high humidity, high temperature, electrically conductive (wet with any type of coating) floor. Consequently, the issue of sockets and switches in the bathroom is no longer fraught with a risk to life and a considerable fine. How to get around this limitation without formally violating the rules and without endangering your life is described in detail in another article; here we give only general guidelines.
When planning work in the bathroom, you should in every way avoid the use of ordinary commercial wood, parts and fasteners made of simple steel with any coating, aluminum and other materials that corrode at constantly high humidity or actively absorb moisture.
In a small apartment, it makes complete sense to install a shower cabin instead of the previous bath; possibly combined with a corner sitting bath. At the current prices for drinking water and hot water, residents of budget housing do not often want to soak in the bath, and in this case, space for a washing machine is freed up in a small bathroom.

Let's start repairing

Plumbing and design

How to start a bathroom renovation with your own hands? From the development of its design, and design - from the choice of plumbing. We will not be wisecracking about the combination of high and low matters: the complexity of the repair and the cost of it largely depend on these stages. For example: a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, but requires tiles for wall cladding of increased smoothness and without relief, otherwise dirt will slowly spread along the walls from the stand under it. A bathtub faucet also makes it easier to work with pipes, but then you need a separate washbasin faucet.

It is impossible to list all the nuances, we will only report the fact: in the same apartments of the same house, the bathrooms are approximately the same in appearance, with the same materials from the same supplier, the repair cost differs by up to 20%. Given the total cost of such an expensive object as a bathroom, the amount is considerable. So - we think, we consider, we estimate.

You can also notice that in an ordinary house you don’t even have to think about a mixer built into the wall: the possibility of this kind of luxury is laid at the design stage of the building. In typical houses, it is unacceptable to hollow out a niche for it.

materials

Pipes

The only suitable material for pipes is polypropylene. Metal-plastic is more expensive and, in terms of technical and economic indicators, is more suitable for or extended pipelines with many bends. They are not observed in the bathroom, but the gaskets in fittings for metal-plastic will someday flow, but propylene can be welded into a solid monolith and hidden in the walls without fear.

As for PVC or polyethylene, pipes made of them are suitable for country houses, prefabricated panel houses and other cheap short-lived buildings. Steel pipes are still the cheapest, but, as you know, they rust from the inside, it is difficult to work with them, and in an apartment or a small private house, all their cheapness comes to naught.

Advice: when choosing pipes, measure their outer diameter with a caliper. Otherwise, it may turn out that instead of one expensive diamond drill, you will have to buy two.

Fittings and fittings

It is worth talking about fittings for propylene especially. In the bathroom, where access to even open connections is difficult, fittings should only be used from solid plastic. The transition to metal is permissible only when connected to consumers, for example, a boiler (see fig.). It is with the help of such fittings that you can assemble a one-piece water intake and hide it out of sight without thinking about leaks. Of course, this requires a special soldering iron.

Butt jointing of pipes is completely unacceptable. Accordingly, if you need to connect two pieces of pipe, then this is also done using a special coupling.

Shut-off valves - ball, but again, soldered into plastic, also see the figure on the right. For connection with metal - a branch pipe with thickened walls and a thread in plastic. Practice shows that on hot pipes, a metal threaded insert weakens over time, squeezes out and a leak appears.

Tile

For the floor, the best choice is porcelain stoneware. It is only slightly more expensive than tile, which costs a penny in a small area, but much stronger and not slippery even with a smooth surface. The last thing in the bathroom is vital: fractures and head injuries of those who slip in the bathroom are not the last in medical statistics for ambulances.

When buying, be sure to check the accuracy of the dimensions and the condition of the surface of the tiles:

Demand from the seller several pieces from different packages. Refuses - go to another.
Put the tiles on the butt on a flat surface close to each other in pairs and, turning 90 degrees, look at the top edge. If in 3-4 pairs the difference in size does not exceed 1 mm, it can be taken from this batch after checking the “face” and glaze.
Also, in pairs, we apply the tiles with their front surfaces to each other. There should not be a hillock, “trough” or “propeller” visible to the eye.
Next, we take a tile, bring it close to our eyes and look along its surface against the light. There are dots, cracks, a microrainbow - we reject it: in the bathroom it will soon become overgrown with dirt, and you won’t clean it off.

Such high requirements for bathroom tiles are explained not so much by aesthetics as by hygiene: pollution invisible to the eye will become a hotbed of infection, and under the bathroom it will be possible to control the condition of the surface, and it is difficult to wash it. Therefore, it is better not to consider options for “alternative” products at all.

Tool and glue

Glue for tiles is better to take slowly drying - 12-24 hours. With self-laying, this will allow you to work slowly and eliminate flaws without compromising the quality of the coating. Hygiene is again in the first place: the tile can still hold firmly, but in a tiny sink under it, microbes will find a cozy and inaccessible home for you.

The spatula for glue must be selected with the pitch and depth of the teeth indicated on the glue package. If there are no such indications, and this glue has been previously tested and proven to be reliable, then the teeth are from 3 to 6 mm. A coarse-toothed trowel for gluing the floor will give too high rustication of glue, and there will probably be cavities under the tiles.

Immediately look at the tile cutter with a core diamond drill for the outer diameter of the purchased pipes. Templates for laying tiles - plastic crosses, it will be difficult to work with others in the bathroom. You don’t have to worry about a trowel for grouting: instead, a piece of electrical cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm in vinyl insulation will do just fine, see below. But be sure to stock up on flannel rags (for the same grout), but it is better to purchase 5-6 cheap microfiber wipes for cleaning glasses.

The remaining materials for bathroom renovation are selected according to the usual criteria for construction work.

Room preparation

First of all, you need to decide what to do with the old bathroom. If cast iron - it is better to leave and. If it is tin, but without enamel chips and somehow sealed fistulas, then the best solution would be. Well, it’s better to hand over the “killed tin” for scrap metal and replace it with acrylic. New cast iron is not much better in quality and durability, and you will have to toss it over and over and risk damaging the newly laid decor.

Next, we turn off the water, disconnect the cold pipe after draining to the flush tank and throw temporary houses into the kitchen, at least from the garden watering hose. Sitting completely without water for 10 days at least is for sure "neither there nor here." You just need to remember to close the outlets from the risers at night or when leaving the house: a hose is a hose.

Then we clean everything from the bathroom to the bare walls. We haven't touched the sewers yet. We plug the pipes of the heating pipes suitable for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. We turn off the electrical wiring of the bathroom in the junction box; for lighting during operation, you will have to use a portable lamp on an extension cord.

Now you can start cleaning surfaces, starting from the ceiling. This work must be done in goggles and a respirator: there will be a lot of dust. But before starting, we tap and try to drill the walls with a CONVENTIONAL drill.

In the panel house of some "Brezhnev" projects, a "pleasant" surprise can await you: an internal insulating box made of GWP (gypsum fiber boards). It certainly needs to be removed; you will see the inside of the plates and the crate - you will understand why. Work is being added, and you need to work with the ceiling carefully: substitute props so that it does not collapse.

We knock down the old tile with a perforator with a chisel for concrete. If the tile was laid on a cement mortar, you will have to tinker: there should be no remains of it. We remove the paint and the top layer of plaster with a drill with a round metal brush 80-100 mm; this is the most dusty and unpleasant part of the work, so it is advisable to send the family somewhere, and close the door to the bathroom tightly or, if already removed, tightly tighten its opening with a film. Otherwise, upon the return of the household, as they say in Odessa, you will have something to listen to. And what to buy again, especially furniture and carpets.

Suddenly, the old plaster turns out to be loose and fragile (in old houses - most often), we remove it to concrete or brick on the walls. If you are lucky and strong, we level it with a drill with a stripping brush, checking the level. There will be a lot of rigmarole, but in the future it will be compensated. We beat the plaster over the electrical wiring with a puncher with a chisel (do not forget to turn it off in the switch box or on the shield!) And remove the wires.

Floor revision

We remove the remains of the cement substrate under the tile from the floor with a perforator with a chisel. If there is reason not to touch the old screed (for example, the washing machine once completely leaked out, and not a drop leaked to the neighbors), then it is better to use a grinder with a diamond cup (bowl-shaped cleaning wheel). The tool is expensive, but in further work it will pay off with interest.

This is followed by a thorough wet cleaning and a careful examination of the old screed. One crack means either with the replacement of the screed, or filling with liquid equalizer. The latter, in terms of the total cost of money, labor and time, is optimal, except for the case when a cast-iron bath remains or will be installed - its weight with water is more than permissible.

If the bathroom is being renovated in Khrushchev, then the self-leveling floor option turns out to be doubly attractive: for a small room, the cost of even an expensive ThermoPlast will be insignificant compared to the general ones, and the leveler can be poured directly over the old tile. And we immediately get an insulated floor. The self-leveling floor layer, taking into account shrinkage during hardening of 10%, must be at least 30 mm; from this calculation, the required volume is determined. But in any case, you will need a new floor waterproofing.

Waterproofing

You can not use ordinary film for waterproofing in the bathroom. No wonder they say “waterproofing” and not “vapor barrier” in relation to the bathroom. Here, there is no alternative material - aquaizol or its analogues made of polyester (polyethylene terephthalate). If you pour water into a bag of such a film, tie it up and hang it in July in the very heart of the Karakum Desert, then the water will not decrease for a month.

The waterproofing joints are either glued with a special mastic or welded with an industrial hair dryer. The latter requires skill, so first you need to practice on the pieces. Insulation is brought to the walls by at least 25 cm (4000 liters of leaked water per 10 sq. M; tensile strength of the overlap by weight) with folds (without cuts!) At the corners. After laying the insulation, you can fill the floor or make a new screed.

self-leveling floor

The composition for the self-leveling floor should be taken two-component: the initial, viscous fill - it will not leak to the neighbors - and then the leveling liquid or ThermoPlast.

New screed

To insulate the floor, it is impossible to use expanded clay in the bathroom - it is very hygroscopic. Foam concrete or foam concrete are also not suitable - they are fragile. In fact, the only option is glass-magnesite boards, LSU, especially since they cost at the level of drywall. The strength of the LSU allows you to immediately lay a reinforcing mesh on them and install beacons.

The composition of the cement mortar for the screed and the technology of its formation have some features:

Cement - grades not lower than 400.
Sand - sifted quartz.
The proportion of sand to cement is 4:1.
Water - in a volume equal to the volume of cement.
Additive to water 10% by volume of PVA emulsion.
Formation - on markers - "beacons" with a layer of 40-50 mm.
After leveling with the rule - dotirka to smoothness with a semi-terre.

The latter is necessary, since it is impossible to lay a finished floor along the logs in the bathroom, and in the case of a tiled floor, the base surface must also be perfectly flat. Also note: the newly formed before continuing work must stand for at least 40 days.

Communications

Open pipelines in the bathroom are not pleasing to the eye, and ditching the walls under them is long, dusty and tiring. In a block house, it is generally impossible to hide sewage in a strobe: fittings will not work, but it cannot be broken. In addition, welded joints are not made on sewer pipes, which means that the sewer must be available for inspection and repair, especially since it is most often clogged.

Sloping pipes

Based on these considerations, we obtain a combined solution: we run all the pipes in a bundle along the bottom and close them with a galvanized slope (see the figure on the right). On the slope with silicone, facing tiles are glued to match the walls or contrasting, and with silicone, the slope is glued to the walls and floor after finishing. If necessary, the silicone is cut with a mounting knife, and at the end of the work, the slope can be glued back into place. In a bathroom with a typical slope layout, it will take about a meter from the wall to the bath screen.

Strobes for pipes will also be needed, but in a minimal amount and short vertical ones: one - if the mixer is common; two - if the washbasin has its own mixer; 3-4 - if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The latter is far from the best option; the natural place of the boiler in the "house of rest in need"; who has not read "1001 nights" - in the toilet.

We begin the replacement of pipelines from the sewerage: sewage pipes are quickly assembled on seals with sealant. It is quite possible to deal with them in a day, and then solder water pipes without haste. Pipes are foamed in strobes - this is additional protection against fogging and heat loss, and electrical wiring is laid before plastering.

Wiring is carried out with a double-insulated wire, tightened into a corrugation. Most often, inexpensive plastic is used, but if during the repair it is also planned to replace the electrical wiring in the apartment, then metal is desirable - then all the wiring will be shielded, which is good in all respects.

Heating pipes

And what about the heat pipes of the heated towel rail? We change to metal-plastic. Into the wall (strobes are needed shallow) they will leave and come out with a bend; metal-plastic can be bent. The lower adapter fittings will hide under the slope, and the upper ones will remain where they were - on the dryer. Full cycle replacement of heated towel rail.

Plaster

Floor finish

Tiles on the floor are laid on glue, but unlike walls (see below) without seams. Glue spills are immediately removed as described above. The glue is applied with a spatula in longitudinal strokes of approximately 0.25-0.35 sq.m; for tiles 30x30 cm - for one next tile.

Laying is carried out from the door so that the cut tiles are under the bathtub and under the slope covering the pipes. Cropped rows (perhaps the penultimate one-piece) are laid after the glue has hardened under the already laid ones, so as not to stomp on them and not knock down the coating.

Each newly laid tile is tapped with a rubber mallet starting from the previous one. They tap in rows of blows, gradually moving towards the free edge. It is important that there are no voids under the tiles, which is why the glue rusts should be parallel, not very wide and deep.

Complete instructions for laying tiles on the floor and walls.

A separate issue is the wooden floor in the bathroom. It is warm, it is even pleasant to stand on it with bare feet. And you can put a cast-iron bath with any screed: the pressure of the legs will be distributed due to the elasticity of the wood. But the wooden floor for the bathroom requires special execution and will cost more than slab.

Suitable woods are teak and larch. After impregnation with PVA emulsion and finishing coating with liquid (deep penetration) acrylic varnish, you can not think about durability: larch piles, with which the coast of Vasilyevsky Island was strengthened even under Peter the Great, are still standing. But boards or tiles for such a floor must be taken tongue-and-groove and laid in the same way as a ceiling, but with an indent from the walls of 20-25 mm for wood swelling. The gap before installing the skirting boards must be filled with polyurethane foam - there should be no cavities!

Wall covering

Most often, bathroom walls are tiled. Porcelain stoneware is also suitable, but it is still more expensive, and nothing is dropped or spilled on the walls; splashes don't count. Recently, the decoration of the bathroom with plastic panels, inexpensive and hygienic, has become widespread, but a description of the materials for it and the methods of work is the subject of a separate article.

The tiling of the walls is carried out with cutting the seams, for which, when laying the tiles on the glue, crosses are first inserted between the tiles. The laying technology itself is the same as for the floor. In the tiles that will fall on the outlets of pipes and electrical wiring, holes are drilled in advance with a diamond crown.

Note: if the design uses a mixer with decorative caps, then a crown is bought larger than diameter pipes. Otherwise, measuring holes for holes is akin to jewelry.

After the glue hardens, the corners are first sealed with silicone. A piece of electrical cable is applied to the silicone sausage through a thin plastic film, pressed and immediately removed. The silicone is pressed into the seam and a smooth concave surface is formed. Streaks and influxes of silicone are removed with a rag with vinegar. Additionally, the corner seam can be covered after cutting the rest with a decorative overlay on the same silicone.

Cutting the seams on the plane is carried out with a special composition - it is cheaper than silicone, but not a sealant. They take out the crosses, fill the seam, press with a piece of cable (now it is already possible without a film) and immediately, without delay, remove the remnants with flannel or microfiber. Cutting the seams with your finger leaves micro-roughnesses in which dirt will accumulate.

Plumbing, ventilation and electrical

Installation and installation of plumbing fixtures has no features and has been repeatedly described. In particular, you will:

, sink, in some cases -.
Optional - .

When installing ventilation, you should inspect the old box removed in preparation for repair. In most cases, even the boxes of the very first Khrushchev after cleaning and repainting are quite suitable for further use. In this case, it is immediately desirable to install a clapper valve into it: cold blowing in winter is excluded.

From stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom, an exhaust fan and a ceiling lamp in a moisture-proof design are acceptable. The fan must also be adapted to moisture: a three-wire cord, with a protective conductor and a Euro plug, with a one-piece sealed (molded) entry into the housing. The washing machine does not apply to stationary electrical installations; its connection when installed in the bathroom -.

About "combination"

Repair of a bathroom combined with a toilet - how to be here? Surely there are some nuances. Yes, there are enough features for repairing a combined bathroom. Therefore, their discussion -.

Conclusion

Taking on the repair of the bathroom on your own, you can save a lot: the event is expensive, and the remuneration of workers is a significant share of the costs. But you can miscalculate a lot: the work is complex, responsible, requires both basic knowledge and good qualifications of the builder.

Video: self-repairing a bathroom lesson

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Discussion:

Pavel said:

Odnushki repair in a new building. Agreed with the workers. For two months they have been busy in the room and kitchen without touching the bathroom. I thought the bathroom was the first to be refurbished. I sense something wrong, but I don't know what. Tell me, knowledgeable people, why are they pulling with the bathroom?

Vasily said:

I did a bathroom renovation this summer. I did not dare to hire private traders, but ordered from a company. I am very pleased with the quality, everything is done at the highest level, I bought plumbing and tiles at a discount through this company. The guarantee was given for 2 years, and they also gave insurance for the entire apartment. In short, do not mess with private traders, there will be only hemorrhoids, and there will be no savings!

Roman said:

During the renovation in the bathroom, I hid all the pipes (polypropylene) in the wall and laid them with tiles, so I don’t have any pipes in the bathroom. It's been 4 years now and no problems. but so much space was saved by the machine and the “moydodyr” washbasin, and the bathtub is tightly pressed against the wall. The main thing is to buy quality material and do the job in good faith. And I don't trust anyone but myself.

Dmitry Rogoza said:

And I had such an interesting story, I live in an apartment on the ground floor, and naturally the basement is not big under my apartment. Well, the bathroom itself is not big, and therefore I decided to put a shower cabin with my wife in order to save a lot of space in the bathroom, but since the house is old, I decided to look into the basement, I had a constant feeling that we would fail, well, I went down to the basement and there the boards were rotten, the house was old, the floor had to be changed and iron beams put in. Everything seems to have gone well. said:

In terms of the cost of materials and plumbing, the bathroom occupies, perhaps, the first place among other premises of the apartment. Provided, of course, if you are doing a major overhaul here. Toilet, bathtub, faucets, shower - all this translates into a pretty penny. Plus, it's labor intensive. if you want. For example. hide water pipes in the wall. but instead of a new bath - cast iron or steel - you can insert an acrylic liner into the old one. the bath will look like new and keep warm well. The ceiling can be sheathed with plastic panels - it will be for many years - beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.

Alena Demchenko said:

Hello!!! My husband and I bought a house and decided to start repairing the toilet. We changed all the plumbing to plastic. The pipes that turned out to be hidden under the tiles were hidden, but the sewers, then they made a box from the lining and hid, because no one from the neighbors wanted to change the sewers, they said everything suits them. Everything turned out nice and neat. With a new bathroom, plumbing.

Oksana said:

I have a separate bathroom and in my opinion it is very convenient when the family is large. Both in the bathroom and in the toilet there are tiles on the walls and floor. Glued very neatly without seams. Never heard of this technique before. It turned out awesome! But I chose a glossy tile - it is easily soiled. But after cleaning it looks great! Our equipment is not expensive, but durable - we are satisfied.

Christina said:

We somehow also had to tinker with repairs in the bathroom. Although it can be called a renovation with a big stretch ... The fact is that at that time we lived in a rented apartment, to put it mildly, with not very good repairs. They decided to change the bath - the old one was in a terrible state. I sent my husband for a new one, but inexpensive. Bought. Brought. Italian. I'm shocked. She is low! Almost up to my knee! Like a bidet, only a big, honest word! I had to think about how to lift it. They came up with) They made a “layer cake” from fiberboards and polyurethane foam lying around in the apartment, stacked one by one. And then they just put a bath on them. The design, of course, still had the same view, but it became convenient to use the bathroom. For temporary housing - a great option. Then I also had to clean the sink so that the washing machine got in. But there were no problems with this.

Bathroom renovation is not easy. We completely tore off the old floor, right down to the concrete, because we started pipes for heating, so that there would be a warm floor. This is not an easy task, but it is worth it, there is much more heat in the apartment and you can sit on the tiles. My daughter constantly plays on the floor, so the warm floor is an even bigger plus. By the way, we have such a floor in the corridor, bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Plus, the bathroom and toilet were combined, because there was no space at all.

Elena said:

In general, we left a different bathroom and toilet in exactly the same Khrushchev to our parents. There are two parents, it’s crowded, yes, but who needs to go to the toilet, and who needs to wash. During the repair of the toilet, a box in the form of a useful cabinet with a removable manhole cover was installed on pipes with water meters to view the readings. And they also made a small corner sink with a bidet, although now the door has to be opened outward, everything is at hand.

Said):

I did a renovation last summer in the entire apartment, including the bathroom. The biggest expense went to renovating the bathroom. Despite the excuses of his wife, he himself made a frame for a built-in sink and a washing machine, sheathed the frame with moisture-resistant drywall, pasted it with mosaic tiles on all sides. Relatives are generally delighted with the result!

Vadim said:

In our case of repair, the most difficult was, oddly enough, the dismantling of the old plumbing. When making repairs, they never ceased to be surprised at the clumsiness of the builders of the house - not a single even angle, everything rests on a word of honor. And in the bathroom, combined, the toilet was so firmly installed that the day was killed for its dismantling. Well, after dismantling, it took as much leveling mortar to level the floor as it did not go to the kitchen!

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To make a quality bathroom renovation, it is not necessary to have large finances. After all, if you want, you can save a lot of money.

For example, you can refuse the services of a designer and come up with a style in which the repair will be done.

You can also save money on the construction team and do everything yourself.

But in order for the process to be established and the result to be achieved, it is necessary to draw up a detailed action plan in advance.

So, you will need:

Come up with a design;
Stock up on the necessary materials and tools;
Make a budget;
Calculate the exact dimensions of the bathroom and plumbing dimensions;

When choosing a design, you need to pay attention to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Owners of a small area should take into account that a small space is less functional.

Light colors in the interior and large mirrors on the walls will visually enlarge the room.

You can refuse to install a bathtub and give preference to a shower cabin. Thus, there will be more space in the room.

For hygiene products, instead of bulky floor cabinets, you can hang compact hanging cabinets.

After you have decided on the choice of design, you need to draw up a plan of action. After all, in order for the process to go on continuously, all actions must be performed sequentially.

Negligent attitude to previous work can significantly affect the final result.

Step 1: Calculate the amount of building materials

This is a very important step in the renovation. An unpleasant moment may be that if the calculation is not correct, there may not be enough tiles, panels or other building materials.

Indeed, in the process of cutting and laying, part of the material may be damaged. To avoid such an incident, you should initially purchase building materials with a margin.

Step 2: Remove the old surface

To remove tiles from the walls and tiles from the floor, you need to stock up on a hammer and chisel. However, it will be easier to cope with the work with a puncher or drill. There are two dismantling options: sparing and emergency.

The first is done with a hammer and chisel. First you need to soak the grout, and then carefully separate each tile from the wall or floor.

The second option is much faster, but more "dusty" and "noisy". To do this, you just need to demolish the coating in layers with a perforator.

Step 3: Repair the floor

First of all, install the screed device. If the installation of an additional “warm floor” system is not provided, then the height of the screed will be 1-1.5 cm. The height will be 3-4 cm if the floors are further insulated.

There are several types of "warm floor" system: water, film and electric. Any of the systems retains the microclimate in the bathroom well, at the same time it has a low cost and is easy to install.

Step 4: Wall decoration

To date, the market presents bathroom materials for "any wallet". First of all, it all depends on the finances that you have. Most often, tiles are laid on the walls.

But you can also choose a more budget option, such as plastic panels or special moisture-resistant plaster. At this stage of repair, everything depends on your imagination and finances.

Step 5: Ceiling

When repairing the ceiling, it is worth starting from the materials that were used on the walls. So, for example, with tiles and plastic, an elastic vinyl film looks very nice.

If you plan to make a ceiling with various transitions, then use a special moisture-resistant drywall. However, there is a more budget option: plastic panels.

After all the finishing work is done, you can install the bath, furniture and plumbing. Do-it-yourself repair is not an easy task, but very informative. In addition, it can save money and make the design exactly the way you want!

DIY bathroom renovation photo

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom with your own hands? This is not surprising, since the implementation of the entire repair process on your own will be much cheaper. On average, the amount of the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in repair, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to contact the specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about do-it-yourself bathroom renovation with a photo and then finally decide on your decision. In it, we will dwell in sufficient detail on the production of actions in their chronological order, indicating the materials and the approximate cost of the costs of the necessary materials.

To carry out a bathroom renovation with your own hands, you will have the following:

Choose plumbing, determine its quantity and nomenclature;
Develop a bathroom design and choose the color you need:
Calculate and purchase the necessary finishing materials;
Prepare the room in which the repair will be carried out;
Assess the current condition of the bathroom floor. Decide on the method of its repair and purchase materials for the work;
Repair floor. This item will include:
its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
screed replacement, under the screed rises the layer created to level the floor, and on which the flooring is usually installed.
floor insulation;
Pipeline laying;
Work with electrical wiring;
Plastering of the ceiling and walls;
Wall cladding, grouting and sealing corners;
flooring;
Installation of a ventilation system.
Installation of plumbing of your choice.

The time that you spend on do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is counted from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly to the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing

It is difficult to talk about specific tips here, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. We only mention that when repairing, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the preparation of the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Design stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing, as it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. So, the characteristic of the tiled wall covering depends on the shape of the washbasin. It will be impossible to specify all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are made out the same way with the same materials from the same supplier, respectively, the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. In an ordinary house, it makes no sense to think about a mixer built into the wall, since such an opportunity is laid even during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use normal commercial wood and simple steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in a place with high humidity does not justify itself. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment is tight on space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think and choose a design that you like.

estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for do-it-yourself bathroom renovation. There are a number of parameters that are essential, but which are quite difficult to figure out without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a large variation in temperature and high humidity, which affects both the strength of materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, it will be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

Some parameters, you most likely will not find in the description of the material, so you should select materials that are directly intended for use in the bathroom. The materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

The price of a tile will be from 40 to 60 rubles per piece, depending on the country of origin. The quality of tiles of domestic and European manufacturers on average do not differ from each other, but European samples usually have a better design. The situation for floor tiles and wall tiles is the same, the difference is only in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles apiece, however, it is recommended to use it for flooring. Unlike ordinary ceramic tiles, they have a non-slip surface and greater durability. Considering the rather high traumatism of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store, you should pay attention to the condition of the surface of the tile. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of uncleaned dirt. In order to make sure the integrity of the tile you choose, lean it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the aspect ratio. If the tiles are of different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to spend time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take a few pairs and attach the edges to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be even.
Tile adhesive. Considering that the work on installing the tiles will be carried out by you yourself, the best choice would be slow-drying glue, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the package. If for some reason the package does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a large-toothed trowel will most likely result in cavities under the tiles.
Templates for laying tiles. It is best to take plastic crosses, because they are easier to work with.
Tile grout. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting.
Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
Bulk floor. For the bathroom, it is preferable to use two components, this is the initial viscous filling, then comes the liquid one, for leveling. The approximate price is from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with the effect of insulation - from 640 rubles per square meter.
Teak or larch floor. If you decide to make a wooden rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels better. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
Pipes. The best option is polypropylene pipes: for cold water (PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that working with steel pipes is difficult, metal-plastic tends to flow in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes go from 45 rubles. Fittings fall into the same category. Solid plastic fittings are most preferred as this will avoid potential leaks. The transition to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to a boiler. Shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. When buying, measure the outer diameter of the pipe with a caliper. To work with pipes, diamond drills are required, if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles for a 5-liter package.
Plumbing. It all depends on your choice, let's just not skimp on quality - plumbing should serve for a long time and in good faith. When considering options for a heated towel rail, it is recommended to take a stainless steel heated towel rail. Other options are either of poor quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider buying one with an infrared sensor that automatically turns on the water when you bring your hands up to a pre-set temperature. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to cut your water costs by half, and heating energy by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on the current market value. Nevertheless, you can somehow navigate at such prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the repair of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need all of the above directly when performing work, some of the options presented are alternatives, their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

We repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials, their use will only lead to more complicated work. When purchasing materials, consider possible marriage and calculation errors: there is almost always a need for some stock. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials, add 35-40%.

Now let's get straight to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. A cast iron bath can be updated with an acrylic or epoxy resin. Installing a new cast iron bath will not give any advantage in terms of quality and service life, and its dismantling and installation of a new bath is quite time consuming. For a tin bath, in the absence of enamel chips or other serious damage, an acrylic liner can be used. If the tin bath is in poor condition, do not hesitate and choose a new one. To update the bathroom, you do not need special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity, the latter being cheaper but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert on your own - it is made at the factory, where you will have to order it, the installation technology is as follows:

thoroughly clean and degrease the bath;
insert the insert and check the correct alignment of the drain holes;
recheck and apply glue to the inside of the tub.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water supply from the cistern. If you are not going to move out for the duration of the repair, then it makes sense to run water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, the main thing is not to forget to turn off the water for a period of absence or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to do without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Proceed to dismantle everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. Do not touch the sewer system at this stage yet, muffle the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power in the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the surfaces of the bathroom. This part of the work is associated with garbage and dust, work with glasses, a respirator and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with a closed door or a film in the opening.

Work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles, use a hammer drill with a chisel for concrete. If cement mortar was used to fasten it, then you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working with the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then the puncher can damage it when cleaning the cement substrate, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there is reason to save the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and will reduce the cost of overhauling floors.

For the top layer of plaster and old paint, a drill with a 80-100 mm round metal brush is used. In old houses, the plaster is often fragile, this must be removed to the ground, whether it be brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum-fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. Work will increase, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it can come to collapse. Take care of the supports.

Cleaning completed, old tiles removed. Time to mop the floors. After wet cleaning, you can begin to inspect the installed screed. The presence of at least one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the floor in the bathroom. Of course, if the damage is small, then this can be avoided by using a self-leveling floor layer. But more on that later. First of all, consider the need to remove the old screed and proceed with the waterproofing of the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: it is aquaizol or its polyester counterpart. Ordinary film for the bathroom is not applicable, moisture will seep in one way or another, while Aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should be led to the wall at least a quarter meter (25 cm) based on weight. 4000 liters of water per 10 square meters is the ultimate strength of the floor. Folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued together with mastic or welded using an industrial hair dryer. Before doing such welding, practice, it's not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed with the installation of a new screed. When assessing the possible costs, the required material has already been called. This is a glass-magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to lay the reinforcing mesh and install beacons without delay. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage, the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. For screed there are special requirements for cement mortar:

brand of cement from the 400th; sand must be quartz;
sand and cement are related to each other in a ratio of 4: 1;
the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
to water you need to add PVA emulsion in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The formation of the screed is carried out along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. A tiled floor requires a level base surface for its flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with sewer pipes, as sealants with sealant are assembled quite quickly, one day is enough. Welded joints are not made on sewer pipes. After that, you can proceed with peace of mind to soldering water pipes.

How to lay them? It’s not worth doing it in the open, it will bring aesthetic pleasure to few people, making strobes, if you don’t know the concept, is a groove in the wall laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, fittings cannot be violate, and she herself will not allow a strobe to be made. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, with the help of silicone on the completed slope, glue the facing tiles in the same color to the future look of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be completed even after the work is completed. If necessary, silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. With a standard bathroom layout, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without a strobe, but this is only for vertically installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and there may also be a couple if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. Pipes should be foamed in the strobes, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. The process of installing polypropylene pipes is very simple, the main advantage is that after thirty minutes from the end of the welding of the last connection, you can use your piping system. uh

Remember, butt joints are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

For welding joints, you will need: a machine for socket welding of pipes made of polypropylene; nozzles for used pipes; pipe cutter; shaver, beveler. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It is worth laying it with a double-insulated wire tightened into a corrugation. The most commonly used is plastic, the price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall with construction tape; as already mentioned, it cannot be cut off. The bathroom is a cramped room, so we recommend using not a trowel, but half a rubber ball to apply plaster. It can be used for all kinds of work with alabaster, plaster or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work that way.

The plaster itself must necessarily be carried out along the lighthouses - a flat surface is required for subsequent wall cladding. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get at any hardware store. Making lighthouses yourself is not worth it, you will only waste your time and hardly be able to achieve a flat surface. The plastering sequence is normal, to the floor from the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its fluctuations in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to comply with the temperature regime, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet, unlike the floor, it will be bonded to the LSU ceiling surface with silicone or mounting adhesive. At the time of work, use the slats as supports, somewhere around 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them until the glue has dried.

Having finished with the insulation, we move on to glossing, although this gloss carries a functional value like condensate. A good option is a material such as plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant adhesive, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not cause collapse - since the boards are interconnected, forming a single integral structure. Upon completion of work with the ceiling, you will proceed to the wall cladding. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

processing the wrong side of the PVA material with an emulsion;
laying itself is carried out using mounting glue or building silicone;
the crest of the tongue, it is understood as the protrusions due to which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such a connection itself, a thin layer of glue is applied, its drips must be immediately removed.

For silicone, table vinegar is suitable, for glue, solvent. Please note - the last two boards of the laminate should be laid together, fold them into a house and insert, pressing the joint until it clicks into place. Do not forget about the props before the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under the ceiling sheathing. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. When finished with the ceiling sheathing, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options as well. But the independent production of stretch ceilings is often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do so, please review the selection criteria. A slatted ceiling is also possible - also a very common option, but its manufacture is the topic of a separate article.

For wall cladding, tiles are usually used. Porcelain stoneware has similar properties, but is more expensive, while the advantages that were mentioned when choosing floor tiles do not matter for walls. Covering the walls of the bathroom with plastic panels is spreading, it is quite cheap and meets the rules of hygiene, but in this article we will not consider how to work with such material.

When laying tiles on the walls, the cutting of the seams should be observed. For this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles on the glue and immediately removed, as described above. The application of glue is carried out with longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. There are no voids under the tiles, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you install should be tapped side by side with a rubber mallet from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will fall on the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond crown. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin plastic film is applied to the silicone, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove the silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can also be covered with a decorative overlay due to the same silicone. On the plane, the cutting of the seams is carried out with a special composition, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is optional in this procedure - the streaks are removed. Do not cut the seams with your finger - irregularities that are not visible to the eye will appear inside the seam, in which dirt tends to accumulate. The technology for laying wall and floor tiles does not differ in itself, a small feature for the floor will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown with a larger diameter than pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure out the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

For the floor, there are two options for tiles - the reasons why porcelain stoneware is better than tiles or wooden floors have already been explained.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will cost more, but the result is more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove, the laying procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving an indent from the wall of 2-2.5 centimeters. This space is designed for the swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities, fill the gaps with polyurethane foam before installing the skirting board. A wooden floor coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish will last a very long time.

For tiles, installation should be done from the door, so that the cut tiles are under the slope or in the bathroom, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has set under the other slabs so as not to knock down the work already done. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles fit together.

First of all, inspect the box, removed in preparation for repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It would be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows in winter. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system, this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment, and prevent the appearance of fungus on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often, for new products, you can even find instructions for the sequence of actions for its installation. Your actions include installing a bathtub (it will not be possible to carry it out on your own, without an assistant) or a shower cabin, as well as a sink. Then there are mixers, then a water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

In the bathroom, it is permissible to mount such stationary electrical appliances as an exhaust fan, the cord must be three-core, have a protective conductor and a Euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and a ceiling lamp that requires a waterproof design. A washing machine is a topic for a separate discussion, since it does not apply to stationary appliances.

All the necessary steps for making repairs in the bathroom with their own hands were dismantled. Watch the video, where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and about twice the laboriousness of repairing two separate rooms, this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is time consuming, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this time-consuming and rather long procedure to specialists. They definitely know how to do things right. But you should still be familiar with all aspects of a bathroom renovation, for a higher chance of completing the entire renovation process successfully and without complications.

At least after reading this article, you will be able to control the work of the performers to whom you decide to entrust the repair in the bathroom. On the other hand, if you are sure of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be significantly reduced. For a more successful do-it-yourself bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.

Most repairs in the bathroom can be done independently, without resorting to the help of specialists. This is especially true for the cosmetic finishing of the room, since even a novice master can hide pipes in a gypsum board box and lay ceramic tiles. Before carrying out work, you need to draw up a design project for the bathroom and determine where to start repairing the bathroom.

Is it possible to do everything by hand?

Basic work in the repair of the bathroom can be done independently. A novice master can easily pour a screed with his own hands, make waterproofing, plaster walls, solder plastic pipes, assemble a drywall box and lay tiles.

More skills will be required when installing electrical wiring. In this case, people who do not have experience should contact a specialist.

Renovations in the bathroom should be done in compliance with the technology. All construction work must be carried out in strict sequence.

Prices and costs

The main question that arises before repairing the bathroom is where to start remodeling the bathroom. Experts recommend at the first stage to decide on the budget. It is necessary to designate the upper price bar for finishing materials, since all expenses will fall on them. Having an approximate estimate will help you avoid unnecessary expenses.

It is recommended to buy building materials in one store, since discounts are often given for bulk orders. The required amount of dry mixes can be calculated by knowing the surface area on which they will be applied. Tiles and porcelain stoneware need to be bought with a margin of 10-15%.

To reduce costs, you should refuse the help of a designer. You can think over the style of the room and the arrangement of furniture yourself. To facilitate the task, it is worth creating a three-dimensional model of the room using a computer program.

Sequence of work

The correct sequence of repairs in the bathroom is the key to a quality finish. All work is carried out in several stages. To begin with, the old finishes and pipes are dismantled in the room, all unnecessary items are removed.

Then the surfaces of the walls and floor are leveled. After that, they move on to the markup of communications. The layout of the electrics and ventilation should be thought out in advance. Then the room is finished. The final stage is the connection of plumbing and installation of furniture.

Repair plan:

Dismantling of the bath, old coatings and doors.
Wall plastering.
Engineering works (rough installation of pipes, electrics).
Floor leveling.
Waterproofing works.
Seal pipes in a drywall box (if necessary, install the installation on the gypsum plasterboard).
Laying tiles.
Door leaf installation.
Ceiling finish.
Plumbing connection.

Planning

An important part of planning is the choice of finishing materials and plumbing. For repairs choose ceramic tiles, plastic panels. Do in the bathroom and decorative plaster walls. It is better not to save on building mixtures. Plumbing equipment is recommended to be selected taking into account the size of the room.

Purchase of materials

To finish the bathroom you will need the following rough materials:

plaster;
bulk screed for the floor;
waterproofing mixture;
tile adhesive;
drywall;
primer;
concrete contact;
metal profile, beacons.

For the installation of electrical wiring and ventilation elements, corrugations and a VVG-P cable will be needed. An important point: electrical equipment for the bathroom (lights, sockets) must be with a protective class IPX4.

Dismantling features

To dismantle the old tiles, use a perforator, a chisel and a hammer. Work must be carried out very carefully so as not to get hurt on flying pieces of tiles. Use goggles and gloves for protection.

Dismantling begins with any extreme tile. A piece is beaten off from it with a hammer, and then the tile is pryed with a chisel. The lining is removed piece by piece. The work of a perforator is carried out in a similar way.

On a previously painted surface, before laying the tiles, it is necessary to apply notches with an ax. Then the surface is polished with coarse-grained sandpaper. Peeling elements (old paint, plaster) are removed with a spatula.

Floor screed and waterproofing

During the repair, the old screed is dismantled if there are defects and drops. The cleaned floor should be pre-vacuumed and primed. The screed is poured over the beacons, located according to the level. It is better to use non-shrink mixtures that quickly gain strength. This will help shorten the repair time.

Bathtub waterproofing is done in 2 ways:

It is done before and after leveling the floor. To do this, first use rolled, and then coating waterproofing. This method is recommended for apartments on the upper floors, because this double protection will reduce damage in case of flooding.
In the second case, the walls and floor are covered with a thin-layer cement-based waterproofing mixture.. Before work, the surface will need to be moistened with water. The waterproofing solution is applied to the corners. Then a mesh tape is glued onto it. After gluing the corners, the mixture is applied to the remaining surfaces, rubbing it into the base. She is allowed to harden for 3-6 hours. The second layer is applied perpendicular to the first. This method of waterproofing prevents water from entering under the tiles from the outside and helps protect the finish in adjacent rooms.

Piping installation and electrical wiring

When repairing, be sure to redo the old sewer pipes. They should be replaced with polypropylene. To dismantle the heated towel rail, you will have to turn off the water in the riser. Piping is done for plumbing.

For the installation of electrical wiring, corrugation or insulating boxes are used. They are laid horizontally and vertically in the channels, which are ditched with a grinder.

Then plastering is done on top. Communications are hidden under a stretch ceiling and drywall. Their locations are marked on the wiring diagram.

The final stage of the repair

After installing the plastic pipes, you need to assemble a box for them. To do this, use drywall sheets that are not afraid of moisture. The basis of the box - guides from the profile. GKL is attached on top of them. For quick access to the meters, the structure is equipped with an inspection hatch.

After installing the box, you need to finish the walls and floor. Tiles are laid from the bottom up. When finishing, you need to properly trim the material. Tiles located in the corners should be the same size. After finishing the surfaces in the bathroom, they proceed to the installation of plumbing.

How to save at the planning stage?

Planning is an important stage of repair, because it allows you to avoid a number of mistakes. Especially carefully you need to think through all the work with a limited budget. To save money, you can:

Calculate when planning a possible adjustment to the size of the room. This will save on facing material. To lay fewer rows of tiles, you can move the drywall wall with the installation forward or reduce the height of the ceiling with trim. You need to adjust the size of the room, taking into account the size of the tile.
Find plumbing (for example, installation), for which you will not need to buy additional parts. The set must be complete.
Before buying any equipment thoroughly find out its features. This will avoid installation problems.
Combine materials. This is especially true for rooms with a large area. To save money, the area around the bathtub and sink is tiled, and the rest of the surfaces are painted. Less money will be spent on a plasterboard ceiling, which can also be mounted independently.
Take the necessary tool to rent, not to buy. You may need: tile cutter, perforator, screwdriver, grinder.

findings

The order of repair depends on the characteristics of the room and the selected materials. If the walls were treated with acrylic paint, then you can do without plastering. Before laying the tiles, they will need to be notched. Concrete surfaces should be treated with a primer that increases the adhesion of the base.

First of all, think about where to start renovating the bathroom. First of all, you need to consider the state of communication systems. Check pipes, ventilation. In the absence of obvious problems, you can refuse a major alteration of communications.