We sowed or planted most of the plants in the spring and it seems that in the middle of summer we can already relax. But experienced gardeners know that July is the time to plant vegetables to obtain a late harvest and the possibility of longer storage. This also applies to potatoes. It is better to use the early summer potato harvest quickly; it is not suitable for long-term storage. But the second harvest of potatoes is exactly what is needed for winter and spring use.
Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably well lying on the ground, but this experience should not be repeated in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, garter. My neighbors use all sorts of stakes, tie-downs, loops, ready-made plant supports and mesh fencing. Each method of fixing a plant in a vertical position has its own advantages and “side effects”. I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises and what comes out of it.
Bulgur with pumpkin is an every day dish that can be easily prepared in half an hour. Bulgur is boiled separately, the cooking time depends on the size of the grains - whole and coarse grinding takes about 20 minutes, fine grinding literally a few minutes, sometimes the cereal is simply poured with boiling water, like couscous. While the cereal is cooking, prepare the pumpkin in sour cream sauce, and then combine the ingredients. If you replace melted butter with vegetable oil and sour cream with soy cream, then it can be included in the Lenten menu.
Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers of infectious diseases that are dangerous to both people and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of unpleasant insects. In this article we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly repellents and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of products to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and at no extra cost.
The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub produces luxuriously fragrant flowers from June to September. Florists readily use large inflorescences for wedding decorations and bouquets. To admire the beauty of a flowering hydrangea bush in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. We will tell you why this happens in the article.
Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects the appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, are one of the early aromatic berries that summer generously gifts us with. How happy we are about this harvest! In order for the “berry boom” to repeat every year, we need to take care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in the spring and berries in the summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.
Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory appetizer for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but this process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. According to my recipe, you can simply prepare pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and by the evening the spicy appetizer will be ready. Watermelon marinated with spices and chili can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of safety - when chilled, this snack is simply licking your fingers!
Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest one - the blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Blushing stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also a strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.
Thick chickpea soup with vegetables and egg is a simple recipe for a hearty first course, inspired by oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and Southeast Asian countries. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your taste. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in clarified butter (ghee) or mix olive and butter in a pan; this, of course, is not the same, but it tastes similar.
Plum - well, who isn’t familiar with it?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, surprises with excellent yields, pleases with its diversity in terms of ripening and a huge selection of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, in some places it feels better, in others it feels worse, but almost no summer resident gives up the pleasure of growing it on his plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in the middle zone, but also in the Urals and Siberia.
Many ornamental and fruit crops, except drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period suffer from sunlight, enhanced by reflection from the snow. In this article we will tell you about a unique product for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.
“Every vegetable has its own time,” and every plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has dealt with planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in the spring the plants have not yet begun to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop such that planting has to be carried out in the midst of summer.
Chili con carne translated from Spanish means chili with meat. This is a dish of Texan and Mexican cuisine, the main ingredients of which are chili peppers and shredded beef. In addition to the main products there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, scalding, very filling and amazingly tasty! You can make a big pot, put it in containers and freeze - you'll have a delicious dinner for a whole week.
Cucumber is one of the most favorite garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. We are talking about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell you in the article. An important point in the agricultural technology of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.
Growing green beans in summer cottages is becoming widespread. Not so long ago, this useful product was grown only by large farms. You can buy green pods without any problems - fresh, in the vegetable departments of supermarkets, or frozen, in the refrigerators of all stores, mainly an imported product. Meanwhile, growing this “green miracle” in the country is not difficult. The most important thing in growing green beans, unlike other legumes, is to harvest on time. Do not leave the pods in the garden too long, making them tough and tasteless.
Beans are rightfully considered by biologists to be the oldest cultivated plant on the planet. There are officially three botanical types of beans.
- The shelling bean from which the beans are obtained is characterized by a dense parchment shell.
- Semi-sugar - this type has a parchment shell of medium hardness.
- Sugar, also known as asparagus, in which the parchment shell is completely absent, but green, juicy and soft is present.
In garden culture, it is customary to call the latter type green beans, which are eaten together with the pods. In contrast to shelled varieties, the pods of which are not suitable for food.
Beans can be divided into two more types based on their growth method.
- Curly.
- Bush.
When growing all types of beans, basic agrotechnical standards are observed, which include the following points.
- Beans do not tolerate sandy, acidic or too heavy soils.
- Loves light, humidity, warmth, tolerates drought with difficulty. If a dry period occurs during flowering, the ovary may fall off and there will be no harvest.
- Beans do not like drafts and winds. The plant needs to be grown in a quiet place.
- Sowing is carried out no earlier than the soil warms up to +13°C (May - June).
- Sowing is preceded by the procedure of heating and soaking the seeds.
- The seeds of the plant are buried no more than seven centimeters.
- Seedlings of all varieties need to be loosened and preferably mulched.
- When the stem grows 15 centimeters, the plants need to be hilled.
- For climbing varieties, you need to provide support immediately when planting.
By the way!Not all varieties have the classic green pods. Some fruits are whitish, yellowish and even bright yellow and purple. Therefore, when picking, it is better to focus not on the color of the fruit, but on the period of expected milk ripeness, which is indicated on the package with the seeds.
Growing
Green beans are heat-loving, but not too much. This is not an exotic representative of the African flora, which must be carefully cultivated as seedlings and planted only when the last possible threat of frost has passed. Beans, along with other garden crops, can be safely sown in the spring directly on the beds, subjecting the beans to preliminary pre-sowing treatment.
How to process beans before sowing
Bean seeds need to be heated. And it’s best to do this naturally, not with a battery, but in the sun. In industrial agricultural technology, they are heated in special dryers, where the temperature is maintained at +30°C... 35°C. The process takes two days. An acceptable option for summer residents is heating by the sun. To do this, the seeds must be placed on a southern windowsill and kept there for at least a week. After this, the beans must be soaked. A day spent with the seeds in warm, clean water (change the water four times) will be enough.
How to prepare a bed for beans
The soil needs a normal alkaline reaction, at least not acidic. Wood ash or dolomite flour will help remove acidity. If you are not sure about the acidity parameters of the soil on the site, still add ash to the hole; it will help the plant develop better.
Sandstones and heavy clay soils are not suitable. It is best if the soil is light, fertile, and moderately drained.
An important parameter for green beans, especially climbing varieties, is the absence of wind. The site should be chosen not only to be heated, but also protected from the winds. It is better to place plants in partial shade than in a draft.
Before sowing beans, be sure to rid the bed and surrounding paths of weeds. Excellent precursors for the crop will be tomatoes, potatoes and various types of cabbage.
Need I remind you that the area intended for growing beans needs to be dug up and filled with fertilizers in the fall? Mandatory organic matter - traditional 6 kg per square meter, superphosphate - 35 g, potassium chloride - 20 g.
In the spring, it is also necessary to add a complex that has a high potassium content - green beans need this element more than all other garden plants.
Sowing seeds
The seeds are prepared, the ridge is waiting for new “tenants”. When starting sowing, you need to decide what scheme to use.
By the way!The depth of sowing bean seeds depends on the density of the soil. If the mechanical composition is light, it can be buried. If it is heavy, sow as close to the surface as possible. But in all cases, the range of bean sowing depth is 2-7 cm.
Bush varieties are sown in rows (two, three) or in a checkerboard pattern. Holes are made to a given depth. Place two beans in each hole. Try to maintain a distance of about 25 cm between the holes, and between rows: two - 45 cm, three - 35 cm.
Climbing varieties are sown differently. By the way, there are also semi-climbing varieties. Their sowing is carried out in the same way as climbing ones. Before sowing, strong supports are installed on the prepared and treated ridge. They can be of any design and from any available materials. You can bend strong wire into arcs, place U-shaped or X-shaped stakes, pipes, or plastic slats. A mesh frame stretched over a frame is also suitable. The main thing is that the plant’s vines have something to cling to.
The holes are made in close proximity to the support pillars. It is along them that the beans will climb upward, towards the light and a good harvest. The distance between the holes can be reduced here - 20 cm is enough.
Video - Support - pyramid for beans
Video - How to make a support for beans
Shoots and care
Beans do not sprout for long, despite the hard shell and the impressive size of the seed. A strong sprout emerges from the soil already on the sixth day after sowing. The main thing is the right temperature. For successful germination in the daytime, it should be about +20°C.
Young shoots are sensitive to night cold. That is why, at the slightest threat of minus on the soil, they must be covered with spunbond overnight. And on the eighth - tenth day, all seedlings must be hilled.
Then, after the plants reach the fifteen-centimeter growth mark, they must be re-hilled. And repeat the procedure several times throughout the season, as the soil settles after watering.
Advice!As soon as the lashes of climbing bean varieties grow to a length of two meters, their ends must be pinched. This will increase fruiting.
Green beans of mid-season varieties, with proper care, will begin to bloom massively on the fortieth day from the day of germination. It will take another three weeks for the formation of full-fledged ovaries. And after that - attention! Harvesting of green bean pods begins ten days after the ovaries form. If you miss this moment and leave the pods on the vines for at least a week, their taste will deteriorate significantly.
Fertilizers
In addition to preliminary autumn and spring filling of the soil, green beans will need additional feeding. You will have to feed the crop at least twice more during the growing season - when it enters the budding phase, and at the beginning of the fruiting phase.
Fertilizer – superphosphate mixed with wood ash (15/
50 g per square meter). If available, you can add a complex with a high content of molybdenum, boron and manganese to the fertilizer. If there is no special fertilizer containing these three microelements, ordinary potassium permanganate will help get out of the situation. The plants are watered over the leaves and into the hole with a medium pink solution.
Watering
For green beans, moisture is important; climbing varieties especially suffer from lack of watering. But beans need to be watered intensively and often only during the period of vine forcing and budding. As soon as the ovary begins to form, watering should be done less frequently, but more abundantly, and the soil around the bushes should be mulched.
Advice!To water green beans, experienced gardeners use one secret - put weeds (any weeds after weeding the garden, you can first lightly chop them) into a large barrel standing in the sun and fill it to the top with water. The infusion must stand for seven days. It needs to be stirred from time to time. A week later, a liter of ready-made nutritious herbal infusion is diluted in ten liters of water and watered over the beans. It responds to such hydration with fleshy pods and healthy, powerful stems.
Important Harvest Points
- The early variety begins to harvest on the 50th day after the first shoots emerge from the soil.
- In mid-season - on the 70th day.
- For late ripening - at 100.
The pods need to be picked in a state of milky ripeness. It is characterized by the following features:
- the pods are not hard, they bend rather than break;
- pod length from 10 to 20 cm (depending on the variety);
- Inside the pod is a green bean, the size of a grain of wheat.
- Harvesting is carried out in stages, every two days.
- Leave those pods that you did not remove in a timely manner for seeds, and in the future, check the vines more carefully.
- Removing the pods stimulates fruiting. This means that the more beans you harvest, the more they will grow.
- Collection can continue until frost.
- The yield per square meter of green beans is two kilograms.
Video - How to grow beans on a plot
Description of green bean varieties
There are many varieties of green beans. Some of them did not take root in summer cottages for various reasons. Others, on the contrary, have gained popularity; amateur gardeners warmly recommend them to each other. Let's look at the most popular ones.
Varieties of green beans
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| One of the early, fifty-day varieties. Bushy and low - up to forty cm. Compact, does not take up much space on the ridge. The pods are emerald green, there are no fibers in them, length – 12 cm, curved shape. The taste is excellent, fresh and sweet. | |
| Also precocious. Curly. One lash forms up to nine pods. Their length is 13 cm. The color is bright green. The shape is straight, the surface is smooth. The variety is not characterized by increased sugar content, but the pods are fleshy and juicy. | |
| It was named so, probably, for the arched, strongly curved shape of the pod, which reminded breeders of the antlers of a deer. Bush variety with pods the color of mature hard cheese. The grains inside are white. Mid-season. Very tasty and nutritious fruits. It is said that by growing this variety, two harvest cycles can be harvested per season. | |
| Bush compact mid-season variety. Grows up to half a meter. It is distinguished by ultra-high productivity. The fruits of this variety are herbaceous green. They have no fibers. They are especially good for freezing and canning, but, of course, they can also be used fresh. | |
| Also a bush variety and also a high-yielding variety. Ripening time is average. But the fruits are not green, but bright yellow. The beans are white. The taste is very high. | |
| A climbing variety with many features, but the main one is the pronounced aroma of forest mushrooms. The pods are pale green, even whitish. And the beans inside are pinkish. Dishes prepared from this variety retain the mushroom aroma and have an unusually good taste. | |
| An early ripening, fiberless, climbing variety with delicate fruits of a traditional green color. This variety is distinguished for its disease resistance and high yield. | |
| This green bean also climbs and is late ripening. Its pods are simply huge - they can grow up to 30 cm. The color and taste are traditional. Productivity is high due to the double mass of long fruits. | |
| Bush variety, with purple fruits. The pods are about 15 cm, very decorative. Due to their unusual color, they are very actively used in canning. | |
| The fruits are formed on the bush. Early – fifty days. The color of the pod is deep yellow. The taste is delicious, soft, slightly oily. There are no fibers. Yields are high. | |
| A mid-season climbing variety, distinguished by twenty-centimeter pods, sparse leaves and vines up to three meters long. The shape of the pod is straight, the color is dull green. High yield. |
Something about green manure properties
Green beans, like any legume, are the best green manure that nature has come up with to increase the productivity of your plot using inexpensive and simple methods. Its roots “pull” nitrogen from the soil closer to themselves. Not only the plant itself, but also nearby plants can feed on it. Therefore, many other crops can be sown between bean rows. You can plant pumpkins, melons, zucchini, and cucumbers in the center between the rows. Along the edges of the ridge the following will do well: peppers, eggplants, white and red cabbage.
And after the harvest is harvested, collect the canes from the supports, or mow the bushes, chop them and bury them in the soil right in the bean bed. Next year you will have a ready-made fertile area with a high nitrogen content for new gardening experiments.
Beans today are very popular in their own household. It is used to prepare various dishes. In addition, legumes are very beneficial for the human body. But to get a good harvest, you need to know the rules of planting and caring for beans.
Beans: planting scheme
Beans are climbing or erect herbaceous perennials or annuals with pinnate leaves. The plant produces bivalve beans containing large bean seeds. To ripen, beans should receive no more than 12 hours of light daily.You need to start sowing beans in May, when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12-15 cm. It is best to wait until the spring frosts have passed. Many gardeners begin planting beans when the chestnut trees begin to bloom. Climbing varieties are planted 7 days later than erect varieties. Bush beans can be grown as a second crop after harvest, which will be ripe by early July.
Before planting beans, you must first cultivate the soil and prepare the seed. The seeds need to be sorted, soaked in water overnight to swell, and in the morning, before planting, dipped for five minutes in a solution prepared from 1 g of boric acid added to 5 liters of water. This will protect the plant from pests and many diseases.
You should not plant beans on clay soils, as excessive moisture will only cause the plant to die. Beans and soils that are overloaded with nitrogen are not suitable, since the plant can independently extract it from the air. It is best to plant beans in sunny areas, protected from wind and moisture. You can plant the plant in areas with depleted soil that has not been fertilized for a long time, since beans are an excellent green manure and a precursor for all vegetable crops.
You need to prepare soil for the plant in the fall: dig up the area to a depth of 5-7 cm, adding 4 kg of compost or humus, 20 g of double superphosphate, 40 g of dolomite flour, 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of potassium chloride for each square meter. Only after adding and simultaneously digging up the area can you start planting beans.
Bush varieties should be sown to a depth of 5-6 cm with a gap of 20-25 cm between bushes. It is necessary to maintain a distance between rows - about 40 cm. Climbing varieties should be sown less frequently: the distance between specimens should be 25-30 cm, and between rows - about 500 cm. 5-6 beans should be placed in a hole. When sprouts appear, you need to leave only three strong seedlings in the bush and transplant the rest. After planting, you need to water and compact the soil.
The secret of proper care
The sprouts that appear need to be earthed up so that they become stable. In the future, caring for the beans is not difficult: you need to regularly water them, weed them, hill up the bushes, loosen the soil, apply fertilizer, tie the shoots to supports, and also pinch the ends of the stems to enhance their branching and accelerate the ripening of the beans.When to water sprouts?
Before buds begin to appear on the beans, the plant needs to be watered as needed - once every 1-2 weeks. You need a lot of water, but it is very difficult to say exactly how much. The soil should be moderately moist. When the sprouts have 4-5 leaves, watering should be stopped altogether. From the moment of flowering, the beans will need to be watered again, and then double the amount of water and the frequency of watering. It is best when the beans are watered by rain, but in the absence of precipitation it is recommended to pour water into a large container and leave it for at least a day before watering the plant.
After watering, you need to get rid of weeds and loosen the rows. The first shallow loosening should be carried out when the sprouts reach 7 cm, and after a few weeks the soil should be loosened again, while hilling up the bushes of the plant. The third loosening and hilling is carried out before closing the rows of beans.
What to feed beans with?
After the first true leaf of the sprouts is formed, they need to be fed with 30-40 g of superphosphate per 1 square meter, and during the budding period add potassium salt at the rate of 10-15 g per 1 square meter. When the beans are ripe, you can add wood ash to the soil. It is not recommended to feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizers, as this can lead to lush growth of greenery and a modest harvest of beans.How to properly tie beans?
When planting a climbing bean variety, you need to install one and a half meter wooden pegs, on which you need to stretch a rope or wire horizontally. Curly shoots of beans should be directed along these stretch marks. It is also permissible to grow the plant in nests, that is, do not thin out the sprouted seedlings, but leave them to grow in a dense bush, and drive a peg nearby along which the bean stalks will curl upward.Pest and disease control
Serious diseases often affect the plant. Among the diseases, beans are often exposed to:- Viral mosaic. Necrotic spots appear on bean leaves, and the veins become colorless. It is impossible to cure beans from such a viral disease, but it can be avoided if you properly care for the plant.
- Bacteriosis. This disease is dangerous because its pathogens not only harm the plant, but also lead to its death. The only way to get rid of the disease is to burn the diseased plants or their affected parts and treat the beans and the area with a 1% Bordeaux solution.
- Anthracnose. A disease in which depressed brown spots appear on the leaves of a plant, the veins become brown, and the plates not only turn yellow, but holes appear in them. This leads to the death of leaves. The disease should be fought in the same way as with bacteriosis.
You can fight insects. You can prevent the appearance of armyworms by deep digging the soil on the site in the autumn. But if a lot of cutworms appear, then it is necessary to treat the plant with a 0.5% Gomelin solution or a 1% Bitoxibacillin solution. It is possible to prevent the appearance of bean weevil on the site only by sorting out the seeds before sowing. It is better to soak the seeds to swell and treat them with sulfuric acid.
How to harvest and store crops?
If you want to prepare dishes from young beans, it is recommended to start collecting them two weeks after the flowers appear - during this period the fruits will be narrower in size and the most delicious. You need to cut the pods with scissors every two days in the morning, while they are still saturated with moisture and coolness. Salads, vegetable stews, soups and other dishes are prepared from young beans. But fresh young beans do not last long.If you want to enjoy beans in the winter, then you need to freeze or preserve them. When growing beans for grain, you can harvest only once, when the beans are ripe and the pods are dry. The stems need to be cut close to the ground, tied in bunches and hung upside down in a dry, well-ventilated place. After a couple of weeks, when the seeds ripen and become dry, they need to be removed from the pods and stored in glass containers. Keep jars in a cool place. For seeds, you need to leave only the first few pods from the bottom of the bushes and store them in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator at a temperature of 5-6 degrees.
If you take planting and growing beans seriously, you can get a rich harvest. You can prepare many delicious dishes from young, canned and frozen beans. The main thing is to care for the plant during its flowering and ripening period, do not forget to treat it against diseases and pests, loosen the soil and remove weeds.
1. Beans are very heat-loving plants (they grow quickly at daytime temperatures of about 20...25°C), so in the cold summer it is difficult to harvest them in open ground. Even in the conditions of the Moscow region in the spring, it is advisable to cover the beans with film and place them in places protected from the winds, and let’s not even talk about the Urals. Without a greenhouse, in which it is warmer and the plants are protected from the wind and from excessive destructive moisture, in the conditions of the Urals it is not possible to enjoy a bountiful harvest of beans every summer.
2. Beans prefer warm, loose, fertile soils, rich in humus, with a light mechanical composition and a neutral reaction. That’s why she really likes the “layered” greenhouse soil. The looseness of the soil will help support regular mulching (best with leaves or old sawdust).
3. The root system of bush beans is located at the same depth as that of tomatoes, but the plant also has a taproot with small branches, which can (if, of course, such a possibility exists) penetrate to a depth of one meter, naturally, in the open ground. Therefore, high ridges are preferable. Of course, it is unrealistic to form a ridge 1 m high in a greenhouse, but it is still desirable to provide 45-50 cm.
4. Beans are a plant that is very demanding of light. Therefore, it is extremely unwise to plant it densely, only if for decorative purposes (naturally, beans are not planted in a greenhouse for decorative purposes). I prefer to plant it in one row along the outer side of the greenhouse at a distance of about 30 cm from each other (although it is officially believed that it is possible and denser: at a distance of 15-20 cm). It’s just that a dozen plants are more than enough for us.
5. Beans love moisture, especially during seed germination and flowering (formation and growth of ovaries). Therefore, under no circumstances should the soil be allowed to dry out.
6. True, in our unkind climate, we often have to worry about cold and rainy weather, during which beans are affected by fungal diseases. Avoiding these troubles is quite difficult. To make beans forget about bad weather, you need to use growth stimulants Epin and Silk, and Immunocytophyte will help protect against diseases and increase immunity in plants.
What if the flowers fall?
Although vegetable beans are self-pollinating plants, the fall of both flowers and ovaries can be observed quite often. Beans shed flowers at every “opportunity”, in other words, any unfavorable factors can be the reason for this.
1. Despite the heat-loving plants, you need to keep in mind that when the temperature rises above 300C, severe flower drop is possible. Of course, in this case one cannot count on a large harvest. In fact, this is a problem for many plants. Therefore, do not forget about sufficient ventilation of the greenhouse. Spraying with fruit formation stimulants Gibbersib, Ovary or Bud will not hurt. I think it will not be difficult to ensure these measures. For example, I spray tomatoes, and beans at the same time.
This will require virtually no additional time.
2. Flowers may fall off if the air and soil are too dry. Therefore, we must not forget about timely watering from this point of view. The soil should be kept sufficiently moist at all times; mulching the soil is very useful.
3. Another reason for dropping flowers can be cold, rainy weather, during which beans can also drop flowers. I have already talked about ways to avoid such a situation.
4. Lack of potassium or boron can also cause flowers to fall off. To prevent this from happening, you need, on the one hand, to carefully monitor the plants and, in case of potassium starvation, fertilize with potassium sulfate (2-3 tablespoons per bucket of water). On the other hand, when forming soil in a greenhouse, you will need to apply complex fertilizers with boron (for example, Universal, or even better, Kemira, etc.). If boron was not applied in advance, then at the time of intensive flowering, you can carry out a couple of foliar fertilizing with boric acid directly on flowering plants (1 g per 1 liter of water) or root fertilizing with Magbor (2 tablespoons per bucket of water) at a two-week interval.
About fertilizing
As for fertilizing, their quantity and quality composition depend, of course, on the degree of soil fertility in the greenhouse. I prefer the option of forming very fertile soil and reducing the total amount of fertilizing as a result. It is usually recommended to fertilize vegetable beans after each harvest, but I usually feed them once every 2 weeks, starting from the moment of active flowering. I use "Giant Vegetable" as a fertilizer for feeding.
However, you need to keep in mind that in bad, rainy weather, plants’ need for potassium fertilizers increases. In this case, you will need to add 1-2 tbsp of fertilizer to the solution. spoons of potassium sulfate per bucket of solution.
Two words about shaping beans
Bush forms of beans are not formed in any way, but climbing ones are usually pinched when they reach the top of the support. Pinching naturally speeds up the process of crop formation. However, if the weather permits, then it is better to wait until pinching and try to direct the growing shoots downwards, distributing them so as to make maximum use of the free space.
Can't do without a garter
To make the most efficient use of light in a greenhouse, plants must be tied when they reach approximately 30 cm. First of all, this naturally applies to climbing varieties (although bush varieties bend strongly during large harvests, so tying them to stakes is also desirable). Like other plants, after gartering, beans have to be twisted around a rope. Here we should not forget that this operation makes sense only when curling the shoots counterclockwise. If you curl the plants clockwise, they will develop.
And the harvest, it turns out, is just around the corner
Vegetable beans are fairly early ripening plants. You can start harvesting the blades after about 8 weeks from the moment of emergence of seedlings for early varieties and after 12 for mid-ripening ones.
As for determining the moment of the next harvest, the harvest begins somewhere in 8-15 days after the formation of the ovaries (this depends on the weather). At this time, the seeds in the pods will reach the size of a wheat grain. Subsequently, the blades are selectively removed approximately once a week. Under particularly favorable conditions - every 5 days.
Does it make a difference how and when to harvest beans?
It is very important to choose the right collection time. There are several important factors to consider here.
1. Harvesting should begin as early as possible, since the blades have a particularly delicate taste at a young age.
2. It is best to go to harvest early in the morning (at 6-7-8 am), because in the hot part of the day the blades quickly wither and lose their taste and presentation. In cloudy weather, of course, you can collect beans before 11 am.
3. Considering that fresh bean blades are practically not stored fresh, the harvested crop must be processed immediately on the day of collection. Usually, of course, it is not possible to boil and eat the entire crop harvested at once. Therefore, part of the boiled shoulder blades always has to be immediately frozen for winter use.
4. We must not forget that if the blades on the beans are not cut off in a timely manner, the plants very quickly stop blooming. The harvest in this case, naturally, will be much smaller.
Culinary tricks
In general, there are no particular difficulties when preparing vegetable beans. The blades are pre-cut into pieces 2-3 cm long (before this, the upper and lower ends of the “blade” are plucked off along with the stalks, and if there are fibers, they are also removed) and boiled for 15 minutes in salted water, drained in a colander, and then used for preparing main courses and a variety of salads. Or they freeze it. Or pickled, etc. For example, I have added beans to regular lecho many times. It turns out very tasty. There are an incredible variety of recipes that include vegetable beans. As an example, I will give those that I like best (and do not require a lot of effort and time, which is no less important).
Frozen beans
The freezing process is quite simple: you need to boil the beans as usual in salted water. You only need to cook for 3 minutes. Then drain the beans in a colander. After cooling, it should be placed in small plastic bags in small portions (focus on the amount of beans that you usually need to prepare one dish). It is convenient to use used milk cartons as bags. Then place the beans in the freezer.
Spicy beans
Boil the bean pods as usual (15 minutes). Chop the carrots into thin strips, chop the onions and saute them in vegetable oil until tender, and then combine with boiled beans. Add freshly crushed garlic cloves, salt and red pepper. Mix well.
Beans with tomatoes
Boil the bean pods as usual. Chop the tomatoes and saute them in vegetable oil for 2-3 minutes, mix with beans, add salt, season with sour cream and sprinkle with finely chopped dill.
Beans with bell pepper
Boil the bean pods. Chop the peppers, chop the onions and saute them in vegetable oil until tender, and then add salt, season with crushed garlic and sour cream.
Omelette with beans
Boil the bean pods. Place in a frying pan with heated butter or vegetable oil, pour in eggs beaten with milk (as for a regular omelet), add salt and fry until done. When serving, sprinkle with finely chopped green onions.
Green bean salad with potatoes
Boil the bean pods. Chop the onion, boil the potatoes in their skins, peel and cut into slices. Also cut the lettuce leaves. Mix all prepared products, season with mayonnaise, add salt and pepper to taste if necessary.
Green bean and rice salad
Boil the bean pods. Cook the rice. Mix beans, rice, add a little tomato paste (or fresh tomatoes), season with sour cream, add salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle with chopped parsley and dill.
Green beans baked in sour cream
500 g beans, 2 carrots, 3 tbsp. spoons of butter, 2 tbsp. spoons of sour cream, 1 egg, 1 tbsp. spoons of ground crackers, salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the bean pods, add salt and pepper, stir. Grease the mold with butter and sprinkle with ground breadcrumbs. Place in layers: beans, coarsely grated carrots, beans, finely chopped onions and beans again. Brush the surface with a mixture of sour cream and egg. Place the pan in the oven and bake for about 30 minutes.
Beans will not grow in heavy, acidic or waterlogged soils. ***
Excessive moisture can lead not only to the appearance of diseases, but also contribute to the attack of slugs, which “love” beans very much. If, nevertheless, slugs “attacked” your plants, then you need to reduce the humidity in the greenhouse (ventilate, sprinkle the soil between the plants with a mixture of ash and coal) and pour protective circles of lime around the plants. If this does not help, then use the drug Metaldehyde.
You should refrain from applying large doses of nitrogen fertilizers, as this delays the harvest date.
To preserve vitamins when boiling, beans should only be thrown into boiling water.
Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Ekaterinburg
The grains have a hard shell, so it does not germinate well from dry grains. But soaking it before sowing is also not recommended, since in our region soaked seeds can simply rot in cold soil. The easiest way to do this is as follows.
Just before sowing, pour the seeds with very hot water (70 degrees), adding bright pink potassium permanganate, and immediately go to sow it. Pour the remaining hot water onto the bed with the sown beans. Or it is good to water the beds before sowing with very hot water (at least 50 degrees) with the addition of manganese and immediately sow the seeds into the still hot soil. You can sow in a greenhouse in mid-May.
If you grow it through, you can transplant it into open ground only when the spring frosts end.
The soil should be fertile, loose, rich in humus and microelements. Since our soils are poor in microelements, we need to feed them with a solution of microelements just before flowering.
Does not tolerate acidic soils; the soil pH should be 6-6.5, that is, slightly alkaline. Therefore, before planting, a deoxidizer must be added to the soil. Dolomite or chalk is best, as a last resort. The planting area should be protected from cold northern winds and well lit by the sun. It will not grow in the shade.
It is necessary to sow to a depth of 5-7 cm. You can sow it in one row at a distance of 8-10 cm from each other. The rows are usually placed at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. But you can also sow using a square nest method, that is, put 3-4 grains in one hole and arrange the holes according to a 40 x 40 cm pattern. The soil does not tolerate waterlogging, so it is better to plant it in beds, watering regularly from the moment the shoots appear until the second pair appears real leaves. Then watering should be stopped until the flowering phase. From the moment of flowering, watering is resumed.
For our northern region, it has one rather significant drawback - it is thermophilic. Seeds germinate only when the soil at the sowing depth (about 7 cm) warms up to a temperature of +12 °C. The seedlings do not tolerate frost. Adult plants can only tolerate short-term frosts of at least 2 °C. Therefore, it is necessary to sow in mid-May, and after spring frosts have passed, plant in open ground under curtain protection from northern winds. Or even grow it in, since the optimal temperature for growth and development is 28-32 degrees. Plants should be placed along the northern wall so as not to shade other greenhouse plants.
There are tall climbing varieties (cola), and there are low-growing ones, in the form of compact bushes only 60-80 cm high. Bush varieties are earlier ripening, which is important in our region. Moreover, bush plants can be grown in open ground, of course, through. Both need support. The climbing one needs to be tied to a trellis, and the bush one needs to be tied to sticks 50-60 cm high.
Climbing and bush varieties come in shelling and asparagus varieties. Hullers, intended for obtaining grain, have a dense parchment layer in the pods. They are collected at the stage of full ripeness, tied into sheaves, dried, shelled and the resulting grain is stored in dry rooms. Asparagus (sugar) varieties do not have a parchment layer in the wings of the pods. They are consumed in pods along with underdeveloped grains in green form.
