First, let's look at the general rules for laying electrical wiring. Electrical wires and cables must be laid strictly vertically or strictly horizontally with rotation angles of 90 degrees. The diagram below clearly shows the wiring diagram with all the recommended indents, as well as the recommended installation height of switches and sockets:
It is worth immediately noting that wiring installation can be done in two ways: openly or hidden:
Open installation of electrical wiring is the simplest and most inexpensive solution; one of the advantages of this type of electrical wiring, in addition to the simplicity and low cost of installation, is the ease of its repair; the main disadvantage of such installation is considered to be a violation of the appearance of the interior of the room. Typically, such wiring is carried out in one of three ways: in a box (cable channel), on brackets, corrugation (or metal hose), or in PVC pipes.
Examples of open wiring in the box and on brackets:
Wiring in a box
Wiring on brackets
Gasket in the box gasket on brackets in corrugation
Installation of hidden electrical wiring is a more labor-intensive process in which electrical wiring is hidden under wall cladding or laid in grooves:
First stage
Second phase
Third stage
The main advantage of this method of laying electrical wiring is that it preserves the appearance of the interior, and in addition, it provides good protection for the electrical wiring from mechanical damage (although, of course, you can still drill it or pierce it with a nail while hanging a picture). The disadvantages are the complexity of installation and the difficulty of repairing such wiring; in addition, this installation method is usually more expensive.
Sockets, switches, junction boxes and electrical panels also have 2 types of design: for open and for internal (hidden) installation:
Installation of open electrical wiring
STAGE 1 (general) Drawing up an installation diagram
This stage is common when laying both hidden and open wiring
We decide on the installation locations for sockets, switches, lamps and electrical panel (if needed). For example, let’s draw up the following diagram for installing electrical wiring in one of the rooms (for clarity, all our electrical wiring will be located on one wall):
Ready! We determined where we want to install sockets, a switch, where the lamp will be located, as well as where we will install the electrical panel and drew up a wiring diagram. Now you can proceed directly to its installation.
STAGE 2 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of electrical equipment
To begin with, let’s stipulate that the most common methods of laying open wiring are laying in a box and laying on brackets, so these are the ones we will consider:
Video editing:
installation of open electrical wiring step - 2
STAGE 3 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of boxes (cable channels), laying cables.
Now that everything is in place, we can begin installing the box (cable channel) along the intended electrical wiring lines.
A cable channel is a plastic box in which electrical wiring is laid. It consists of a base and a cover:
Boxes come in different sizes and colors, and, as a rule, have a standard length of 2 meters. For installation, the boxes are cut into pieces of the required length (usually the box is cut with a hacksaw), for example, as can be seen from our installation diagram below, we need to cut the box into the following sections:
Sections 2 meters long - 2 pcs.
Sections 1.5 meters long - 3 pcs.
Sections 0.5 meters long - 2 pcs.
Sections 0.3 meters long - 1 piece
Sections 0.2 meters long - 1 piece
In total, the total length of the box we need is 10 meters (i.e., you can buy 5 strips of the box, 2 meters each).
After the boxes are cut, you can start installing them; they are mounted very simply: you need to open the box cover and screw the base of the box to the wall using self-tapping screws (if the wall is made of wood or plasterboard) or plastic dowel nails (if the wall is brick , concrete, etc.). After the box is attached to the wall, the cable is laid in it and the box is closed with a lid. The angles of rotation of the box can be covered with special plastic corners, and you can also make corners by cutting the box at 45°:
Video of box installation (the video is not the best, but we couldn’t find anything better on the Internet, perhaps in the future we will make our own video on this topic, but for now we have to use what we have):
installation of open electrical wiring step - 3
If you decide to install electrical wiring using brackets, then instead of installing the box, after installing sockets, switches and everything else, you immediately lay the cable, which is attached to the wall with brackets. Brackets (clips) for fastening cables come in plastic of different sizes, designed for specific types and sizes of cables:
The staples can also be universal:
IMPORTANT! When laying wiring on brackets, remember that in this method it is prohibited to attach ordinary cables to combustible bases (for example, to a wooden wall); for this you must use special cables that do not support combustion (do not propagate fire).
STAGE 4 (Installation of open wiring) Assembling the circuit.
Now that everything is installed and the cables have been routed along the walls, you can begin connecting sockets, switches, lamps and assembling the wires in the junction boxes.
Installation of hidden electrical wiring
STAGE 1 Drawing up an installation diagram
This stage is common when installing both hidden and open wiring and has already been described above.
STAGE 2 (Installation of hidden wiring) Drilling holes in the wall
If you are installing hidden electrical wiring, then after drawing up the installation diagram (STAGE 1), you need to start drilling holes in the wall with a diameter of 72 mm (standard diameter for socket boxes) in the places where we will install switches, sockets and junction boxes. Drilling holes is usually done with a hammer drill (or drill) with a special bit for concrete:
STAGE 3 (Installation of hidden wiring) Wall chipping
After the holes are ready along the planned electrical wiring lines, we tap the wall. According to the technology, this is done as follows: First, 2 parallel cuts are made in the concrete wall using a special wall chaser, after which the concrete between these cuts is knocked out with a hammer drill:
However, there are other ways to make a groove; instead of a wall chaser, you can use an angle grinder (grinder), or you can even start drilling the grooves (but this method is only suitable if you need to lay a maximum of a couple of meters of cable, because the method is too labor-intensive .):
Video of the groove execution:
STAGE 4 (Installation of hidden wiring) Cable laying
Now it is necessary to lay the cable in the prepared grooves so that the cable does not fall out of the groove during installation; it must be fixed there; this can be done either by gripping the cable with gypsum plaster, because it hardens quickly, either with the help of a special bracket:
Video of cable laying in a groove:
STEP 5 (Installation of hidden wiring) Installation of junction boxes
The time has come to secure the mounting boxes in the holes drilled during the second stage (the boxes in which our switches and sockets will be installed in the future). It is better to mount mounting boxes on gypsum plaster (Tip: gypsum dries very quickly, so it is better to dilute it in small portions, because there is a risk that while you are installing one socket box, all your remaining mortar will turn into stone).
In order to secure the mounting box (socket box), you must:
- Clean our hole from dust and concrete fragments, and then wet the surface of the hole.
- Apply plaster to the hole, with the expectation that after installing the socket box into the hole, there will be no spaces left around the edges unfilled with plaster, but without fanaticism.
- We insert the socket box into the hole, having previously broken out the hatch on top for introducing the cable, it turned out that this hatch should be opposite the fine.
- We press the box down until it is flush with the wall.
- After the solution has dried, remove excess plaster with a spatula.
If you did everything correctly you should get something like this:
Video of installation of socket boxes:
10
Modern life is unthinkable without electricity, so sooner or later we have to face problems. Replacing electrical wiring or installing a new one is a serious test for a person ignorant of electrical engineering. However, if you have basic knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, armed with the recommendations outlined below, you can easily do this work yourself.
How to do the wiring correctly?
Electrical wiring installationInstallation of electrical wiring in the house should not be spontaneous. All activities are planned and subject to the general Rules for the construction of electrical installations. This organization of work will not only simplify its implementation, but will also ensure safety.
Basic requirements regulating the wiring device:
- easy access to all devices and wiring elements must be provided;
- switches are located at a level of 0.6-1.5 m relative to the floor. They are placed so that the open door is not an obstacle to access to them. The wiring supplying the device is routed from above;
- the height of the sockets should be within 0.5-0.8 m. This is due to ensuring safety in case of flooding. The distance from kitchen stoves, regardless of energy carrier, heating appliances and other grounded devices must be at least 0.5 m. Wiring is carried out from below;
- with the exception of the kitchen, one socket should be per 6 sq.m. It is prohibited to place sockets in the toilet room;
- internal and external wiring is carried out exclusively in vertical and horizontal directions. The general diagram should reflect their direction;
- wiring should be carried out at a distance from pipelines, ceilings and other elements of the room;
- contact of the wiring with house structures made of metal is not allowed;
- parallel wires are located at a distance of at least 3 mm, or boxes or corrugated pipes are used for their placement;
- wiring and connections of conductors are placed in boxes. The connection points must be insulated. Wires made of different materials, copper and aluminum, cannot be connected;
- To fix the ground and zero, a bolted connection is used.
Drawing up a diagram
Installing electrical wiring requires creating a project and developing a wiring diagram. The absence of a clearly formulated plan will make its installation extremely difficult.
If you have general concepts in the field of electrical engineering and knowledge of safe electrical installation work, there will be no difficulties when doing the wiring yourself. Using generally accepted symbols, a drawing of the apartment is drawn up indicating the location of installation of electrical appliances. In this case, it is necessary to determine the type and quantity of household appliances and other electricity consumers.
Scheme The diagram below shows the distribution of power wires. At this stage, the type of connection of electrical appliances is determined: parallel, serial or mixed. From the point of view of material consumption, the latter is preferable. It is recommended to group all devices according to their location, which will simplify the process of laying wires and reduce the need for them.
The wiring for sockets can be done under the floor, and for lighting - in the floor slabs. These options do not involve wall slitting.
The project can be confirmed by calculations, during which the maximum current in the circuit is determined. Practical data say that this value in houses or apartments does not reach 25 A. In accordance with this circumstance, materials are selected, in particular the cross-section of the conductors.
To determine the need for cable and wire products, it is necessary to take measurements directly on site. A margin of 3-4 m should be added to the resulting length.
In the distribution panel, all wires are connected through circuit breakers. The location of the shield is at the entrance. If you have an electric stove, an additional individual automatic machine is required.
The next step is to count the number of outlets and determine the need for distribution boxes. A previously drawn up diagram will help with this, since everything is indicated on it. When installing electrical wiring, you cannot do without electrical tape and PPE caps required to connect the wiring. You may also need pipes, boxes and socket boxes.
The diagram shows all the nuances Electrical wiring installation: step-by-step instructions
One person can install electrical wiring in a house, but it is important to follow the rules for safe electrical work. Choosing the right tool will make the task easier. In addition to a set of screwdrivers, pliers and a tester, you will need a hammer drill and a level.
When replacing old hidden wiring in a room, it is necessary to use a special sensor that will allow you to determine its location. Having found this out, the old wires are eliminated.
Wall marking
Having completed all preparatory activities, proceed to marking. Use a marker or pencil to mark the walls along which the wiring will be located. In this case, you should follow the rules described earlier.
After this, the locations of sockets, lighting fixtures, switches and panels are marked. In older houses, the panel is mounted on the wall; modern designs provide a niche.
Wall chipping
Hidden wiring is made by laying wires in grooves, and electrical appliances are mounted in special holes. To create such holes, a hammer drill equipped with an appropriate attachment is used.
Wall chipping The chipping is done with a grinder or a hammer drill. Be prepared to generate dust and debris during this work. The dimensions of the groove are: width - about 20 mm, the width should allow free placement of wires.
There are various ways to install wiring on the ceiling. One of them involves the construction of a suspended or suspended ceiling. In this case, an overlap is used to secure the wires. When using another method, a groove is made with a slight depth. The wiring is completely hidden in the ceiling when using the third option. To lay it, you should use the internal voids that are provided during the production of floor slabs. And then all that remains is to make two holes and bring the wire inside.
After completing the creation of the grooves, they begin to lay the wires into it. In order to be able to bring the wires into the room, through holes are punched with a puncher. It is advisable to do them in the corners of rooms. It is necessary to arrange holes for laying wires from the distribution panel to the lighting panel. After completing this work, everything is ready to install the wire.
Laying the route
Open wiring
The lighting panel is installed in a niche, if provided, or by hanging it on the wall. An RCD is installed in it in a quantity corresponding to the number of consumer groups. When assembled, the structure has neutral terminals at the top, grounding terminals at the bottom, and automatic switches are located between them.
Wires of the selected cross-section are placed inside. When connecting them, it is necessary to take into account the color marking of each core. The blue wire is connected to the zero phase; white – to the upper contact of the RCD; yellow with a green stripe - to grounding. The machines are connected in series.
Laying the route Open wiring begins by securing the boxes along the marking lines. When constructing such wiring, electrical boxes are often moved to the baseboard area or placed at the maximum height under the ceiling. They are fastened with self-tapping screws, the interval between which is 500 mm. The distance from the edges of the holes is 50-100 mm. After drilling them out with a hammer drill, the dowels are driven in and screws are screwed in to secure the channel.
The open type of wiring involves hanging all electrical appliances. Therefore, after laying the route, their installation follows, for which the places where the mounting holes are made are outlined.
First, the main trunk line is laid out. Then it is led from the sockets to the lighting panel. Experts recommend moving from the connection point to the panel and leaving a marking or label indicating the purpose of the wires. Then the wiring is carried out from switches and lamps to distribution boxes, in which electrical conductors are connected using PPE or insulating tape.
The connection in the panel is as follows: the brown or red conductor is connected to the phase terminal, which is located at the top of the RCD, the blue conductor is connected to the neutral conductor, and the yellow conductor with a green stripe is connected to grounding. In order to prevent mistakes, the tester rings the wire connections. Only after you have verified that the electrical circuit has been installed correctly is connection to the distribution panel allowed.
Hidden wiring
Installation of hidden wiring does not differ significantly from open wiring. The main difference is the removal of wires from view. Wiring begins with the installation of a lighting panel and automatic switches. Then they insert the input cable, but do not connect it. Installation of boxes and socket boxes takes place in previously prepared recesses.
Hidden wiring The wiring starts from the main line. If provided for by the design, the wires are laid on the floor. For this purpose, pipes or corrugations are used in which the wire will be located. They are led to the places where the sockets are located. Next, the wire to the socket box is laid in a groove.
shield Then they move on to running electrical wires from switches and lighting fixtures to distribution boxes, in which they are connected to the main line. Insulation of connections is carried out using PPE or electrical tape.
The final stage of installing electrical wiring in the house is to test the circuit. If the circuit test gives a positive result, then connection is made to the lighting panel.
Gypsum putty is used to seal the grooves. The electrical circuit in a house with a distribution board is connected by a certified specialist.
Do-it-yourself wiring if the basic rules for safe electrical work are neglected often leads to electric shock.
Before starting work, be sure to turn off the power supply. It is also necessary to take measures to prevent spontaneous or erroneous supply of electricity.
When dismantling elements of old wiring, you should be extremely careful. This measure is explained by the likelihood of the presence of third-party wiring that is not de-energized.
Before applying voltage, it is necessary to warn people in the house.
It is not allowed to wear metal jewelry or other metal objects while working on electrical wiring.
Electrical work in the private sector in our country is more bad than good. For most would-be electricians, protecting people from electric shock and property from fire, unfortunately, means nothing. At the same time, one gets the impression that ordinary users skipped physics classes at school and do not understand at all what electric current is. But they believe very well in marketing tricks and happily attack “branded” automation, rejecting any other.
I propose to understand step by step all the issues of power supply to a private country house using the example of a single-phase input. This guide can also be applied to apartment use. I would like to note right away that my specific solution for certain nodes is the optimal balance between functionality and price, but without compromising security!
I hope there is no need to retell the full course of physics and explain what alternating electric current is. We will also omit the moments of how this electric current appeared at the power plant and entered the power line through a step-up transformer. I will only note the important nuance that the entire power supply system in Russia is three-phase. The single-phase voltage of 220 volts in your outlet is only the phase voltage on one of the three phases. And the line voltage will be 380 volts. This circumstance should be taken into account in view of such a phenomenon as “phase imbalance,” which, nevertheless, is relevant only with old wiring that is not designed for modern loads.
2. So, a step-down transformer in SNT. A high voltage of 10 kV comes through three wires. Then 4 wires (3 phase and one neutral conductor) diverge along the SNT. In the photo you see a modern transformer and taps in the form of SIP wires. At the moment, the air lines in our SNT are undergoing modernization.
3. With single-phase input, two conductors are connected to each consumer: phase and neutral. In the photo you can see old aluminum wires on the pole closest to the house. The outlet to the house has already been made using SIP wire. Particular attention to the fact that all overhead line supports must have re-grounding of the neutral conductor (top right photo). This is necessary in order to eliminate emergency situations, such as “zero break”. In this case, you should pay special attention to your own grounding in the absence of repeated groundings on intermediate supports, otherwise in an emergency your own grounding may be the only one for the entire village.
4. Get to the point. The last section of the overhead line from the nearest pole to the building is stretched with SIP wire, in our case 2x16. It stands for self-supporting insulated wire; it is aluminum with a cross-section of 16 mm². For ease of installation and laying in the place of anchor fastening, using special clamps (the SIP wire implies installation of the line under voltage, on special clamps the nut is not under tension, and also has a shear thread that guarantees the required tightening force) goes into a VVG with a cross-section of at least 10 mm² . It is in this form that the two wires enter the input panel. In the panel we have a two-pole input circuit breaker and a surge suppressor (mandatory at the end support for overhead input), which will protect the network when lightning strikes the phase conductor of the overhead line. It is connected in front of the machine to the phase conductor. Here in the panel the grounding is connected strictly BEFORE the input circuit breaker. We are considering the TN-C-S grounding scheme, since the TT system is still created for mobile buildings, and not permanent buildings, and it has its own specific safety requirements. The TN-C-S system has no disadvantages if installed correctly. Even if we go deeper into this topic, if you make a TT, then this will only be your end section, while the entire overhead line from the transformer will be TN-C.
5. Mandatory grounding. Three corners with a wall of 50 mm (steel thickness 5 mm), 2 meters long, are driven into the ground with a sledgehammer and welded together in the shape of a triangle. A steel strip 40 mm wide goes to the wall of the house. The last meter to the shield is done using a copper conductor with a cross-section of at least 16 mm². It is strictly forbidden to underestimate the cross-section; in the event of any accident on the line, your grounding may become the only one for the entire line/street/block. The switching in the panel is as follows. The combined PEN (Protected Earth + Neutral) conductor from the overhead line is divided into two busbars into N and PE. After this, the input circuit breaker is switched, next to it is the surge suppressor. From the machine, the power line goes to the electric meter. A three-core copper wire with a cross-section of each core of 6 mm² goes directly into the house. The phase and neutral conductors come from the meter, grounding from the corresponding bus.
6. Let's move on to the internal wiring of the house. I repeat that when designing the electrical network, the principle of reasonable sufficiency was used. Of course, it was possible to make 2 times more sockets and increase the number of power lines by the same amount, but I believe that this is completely unnecessary. Explanations for the diagram: red squares - distribution boxes, yellow circles - lamps. Blue indicates wiring in the screed, red - in the walls. Everywhere in the house only LED lighting is used (the total consumption of all lamps turned on at the same time does not reach 300 watts). The lighting is powered from the power line to a specific room, I don’t see any practical need for separation, and besides, this significantly increases the amount of installation work. The diagram shows all existing consumers in the house. If you have questions, ask.
7. So, let's get started. This is a temporary electrician for the period of construction work. Let's move on to laying power lines. There are 10 of them in total. Some of them will go along the walls, some in the floor in the corrugation.
8. Let's start with the floor power lines. We use NYM cable with a cross-section of 3x2.5 mm² in corrugation (the gray corrugation does not burn at all, the black one does not support combustion and has ultraviolet protection - it doesn’t really matter what to use in the screed, it’s not so easy to find a durable gray one, but I would trample the soft one while the preparatory work was underway work). A frequently asked question - why not VVG? In terms of performance characteristics, they are completely identical, but NYM has the advantage of triple insulation, while it has the disadvantage of a non-UV resistant shell. Therefore, VVG is preferable for open wiring. In other respects, NYM is more convenient, including because of its round shape (round VVG also exists, but it is extremely difficult to find it in stock). A round NYM can be easily pulled into a corrugation with a diameter of 16 mm, which is extremely convenient. It is worth documenting the routes for laying lines along the floor as a keepsake, although nowhere except for door thresholds is there even a theoretical possibility that you will need to drive something into the concrete floor screed.
9. Corner of the kitchen area. Aerated concrete is simply an excellent material for processing - you can even scratch the walls with an ordinary screwdriver. So, we drill holes for mounting and distribution boxes. The wire in walls made of NON-COMBUMBABLE bases is laid in the form in which it is. No corrugations are required. All attention to the tracks. Power lines are laid only at right angles. The main line runs along the floor at a height of 20-30 cm, then rises strictly VERTICALLY to sockets and switches. Diagonal laying is prohibited and is dangerous with the risk of getting into the wire, for example, when driving a nail into a wall (and so you know for sure that you cannot drive nails exactly under sockets and above switches). The cable is attached to the wall using plastic round brackets (two holes are drilled and the bracket is inserted).
10. The floor screed is filled. The question at what stage to lay the cable along the wall is purely a matter of your personal preference. Someone first plaster the walls, then make a groove, lay a cable and seal the groove back. I prefer to do the wiring before plastering the walls. This method may seem inconvenient because... During plastering work, increased attention will be required to the points with mounting boxes (you need to plug them with something and then pick them out). Pay attention to the left corner - all switching on the pass-through lines of sockets is made not in socket boxes, but in separate distribution boxes.
11. I will repeat with the type of wires. NYM is an ideal and universal cable. The cross section is selected in accordance with the load. Usually a 3x2.5 mm² cable is used. For powerful consumers, such as an electric hob, a wire with a core cross-section of 4 mm² may be required. For lighting lines, where in my case LEDs are used (maximum power consumption in the largest room is 80 watts), I use a PUNP cable 2x1.5 mm² (grounding in the lighting network is not needed, there is nowhere to connect it). In general, standards prohibit the use of PUNP due to the fact that technical conditions allow the cross-section of the cores to be underestimated by up to 30% compared to the standards, and with widespread savings everywhere and in everything, this can cause a fire due to exceeding the permissible load. In my case, my maximum load is more than 30 times less than what a cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm² can safely pass. Therefore, a larger cross-section is not required, and this cable is most convenient for installing a lighting line. Yes, keep in mind that for fixed wiring only rigid cable with a single core is used. Socket boxes and distribution boxes are mounted into the wall on building plaster (alabaster), as the fastest-drying solution.
12. Now comes the actual stage of assembly and installation of power lines. You will need a few handy tools. The uppermost one is used for crimping the ends of multi-core cables, for example PV3 (currently being replaced by PuGV), which are used when assembling an electrical panel. The middle tool is useful for quickly stripping the NYM cable sheath - clamp, twist, pull. Below is a simple tool for stripping the end cores, not very convenient, but more than enough for a one-time job.
13. It is also necessary to have such a thing as an indicator screwdriver. There are two varieties of them. The original device with a neon lamp without a power source is capable of detecting only phase voltage. This simple Chinese device with a power supply has more advanced functionality and allows you to determine not only the phase (important! to determine the phase, you must not touch the screwdriver cap with your fingers), but also the integrity of the line, as well as the location of the conductor break. On the right is the initial blank for the electrical panel. When switching, it is important to distribute everything in such a way that it is intuitively clear where everything is.
14. I’ll immediately note a nuance that “specialists” will definitely get to the bottom of - the neutral conductor should be blue, but I have it black since in our tree called Moscow there is never anything in stock at the moment when I need it (since the shield obviously single-phase, there is no obvious catastrophe and error of confusing zero with the second phase). For switching in the electrical panel, I use a PV3 wire (you can use a modern PuGV) with a cross-section of 6 mm². It will also require special NSVI lugs (insulated pin sleeve lug), they are needed in order to assemble a stranded wire before switching it under the screw (the strands will spread out - there may be poor contact). It is also convenient to use special single-pole and double-pole busbars (in the right photo in the background) to connect a number of circuit breakers.
15. Switching in distribution boxes is as follows. The terminals used are WAGO 2273 (left) on conductors with a cross-section of 3x1.5 mm² (why and why - below) and WAGO 222 (right) on conductors with a cross-section of 3x2.5 mm². Be sure to always follow the color coding of the conductors. WAGO 222 series is perhaps the best option if you don’t want to bother with soldering and crimping.
16. Installation of sockets and switches. I really like Schneider Electric products, the Unica series. According to modern standards, switches must be turned down. Switching upwards is an old school from the time of switches, the switching of which upwards was due to their design. Unica series switches are switched downwards, this is their standard position.
17. Switching of double sockets standing next to each other is as follows. The power wire comes to the terminals of one outlet, and then a branch is made to the adjacent one. Rules of good manners require that when installing sockets, the phase conductor must be connected to the right.
18. We return to the electrical panel. I would like to draw your attention right away - always take a shield with a very large reserve, it will definitely not be superfluous. I seemed to have done everything to the minimum, but almost all 36 positions (3 rows of 12 positions each) were occupied. Be sure to leave a supply of power line wires equal to at least one and a half times the height of the shield. On the right you can see the first version of switching, and in fact this is the moment when the house was switched from a temporary electrical circuit to a permanent one. In the process, a couple of consumers appeared and the scheme was slightly modified.
So, I’ll tell you in detail what, how and why. Go!
A few words about the components of the shield.
Automatic switch or just a machine. Provides short circuit protection and also provides protection for electrical wiring. Consequently, it contains two releases - electromagnetic and thermal, respectively. The first one is triggered in the event of a short circuit on the line; the response time is determined by the time-current characteristic, which in any case is several times higher than the current rating of the machine. The thermal release is a bimetallic strip with different coefficients of thermal expansion and is designed to protect electrical wiring. It is in accordance with the cross-section of the cable and the sockets used that the rating of the machine is selected. The most common mistake is to install a 25A breaker on a power line with a 2.5 mm² wire, assuming that the cable will withstand it. No you can not. And the reason lies in the sockets. Conventional sockets are designed for current up to 16A. Therefore, this is exactly what the machine’s nominal value should be. And in general, it is better to play it safe and reduce the rating of the machine, as it will be the one that can protect the wiring from overheating or, even worse, fire.
An RCD is a protective device that detects leakage current. The simplest mechanical device is a differential current transformer. To put it simply, the amount of current that “arrived” through the phase conductor should be equal to the amount of current that “went out” through the neutral conductor. If “out” is less than “in”, there is a leak and protection is triggered. If there is grounding, the RCD will trip as soon as dangerous voltage appears on the device body; if there is no grounding, the RCD will trip as soon as a person touches the body (he will get a slight electric shock). It follows from this that RCDs should always be used, and the presence of grounding only increases the level of safety. At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to make homemade grounding in an apartment in the absence of it; the consequences can be very sad. About the RCD, it is worth noting that it itself needs to be protected from short-circuit current, so after it in the line there must be a circuit breaker(s) with a lower rating than the RCD itself. The rating of the RCD itself implies what maximum current it is designed for; it is better to focus on a 20-30% margin from a constant load. The simplest way to check the functionality of the RCD and the correct grounding is to short-circuit the neutral and ground conductors in the socket. The RCD should turn off immediately.
To summarize: a circuit breaker protects wiring and equipment, an RCD protects people. There are also difavtomats (here and earlier I use the terminology that has developed in our country, although it is not entirely accurate), a device that combines the functions of an automatic machine and an RCD.
Now let's move on to the shield:
We start from the upper left corner. This is where the 3x6 mm² cable comes from the street panel. Input RCD with leakage current 300 mA. Popularly called “fireproof”. It is used in conjunction with an RCD for a lower leakage current, firstly to ensure selectivity during shutdown (first of all, the “junior” RCD will trip), and secondly, to increase fault tolerance. Next to it is the ABB C11 meter, which I use exclusively for technical metering of electricity (to report to you the consumption figures of the air source heat pump and not to run to the street panel for this). After it there are two two-pole circuit breakers that also act as switches. The left one, rated at 40A, is used to de-energize the entire electrical system of the house with the exception of the air source heat pump. The right one controls the air source heat pump). To the right there is a thermostat for the anti-icing system (20 meters of heating cable in the gutter and drains) and three automatic devices: for it and two lines of street outlets (which in turn are powered by one RCD from the next row).
Second row. In the left corner there is a common ground bus for all lines. Pay attention to the switching. You should not lay wires behind the slats; it is better to route them as openly as possible. Next we have a line of RCDs in the amount of 6 pieces, according to which all consumers in the house are evenly divided. The leakage current of all RCDs is 30 mA, although ideally for a bathroom it is worth using an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA.
Third row. Consumer finite state machines along lines. On the left, right and bottom are the corresponding zero buses extending from a specific RCD for each line. They must be separate, otherwise there will be no point in dividing the RCD into separate lines. The machines are grouped into groups according to load types.
How to choose the rated current of the machine? As we explained above, the rating of the machine is selected based on the cross-section of the conductor (a copper conductor with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² can withstand 25A long-term load) and switching devices (household sockets are designed for currents up to 16A). Everyone knows how to convert amperes to watts - multiply by voltage (220 volts).
20. Close-up of the bottom row of machines. Single-core cables are connected directly to the screws; multi-core cables must first be crimped with a lug. There are a lot of unfounded claims from “experts” about IEK products, and very in vain. This is an excellent option in terms of price/quality ratio. They are made in China, Russia and Turkey. And they perform their function no worse than the “racially loyal” ABB and Legrand. Don't believe me? Ask real electricians, not charlatans selling what is more expensive. All of Moscow, after the recent modernization, is electrified using IEK automation; of course, on a scale of millions, the quantitative statistics of failures will be higher than in the case of other brands, which are used in the housing stock by several orders of magnitude less. What bad can happen to IEK? And nothing that can harm a person. Once triggered, the RCD or circuit breaker simply will not turn back on and will require replacement. That's all.
21. Complete shield assembly.
22. And a layout along the lines with signatures. Simple and functional. Groups along lines are highlighted in color. If an accident occurs, for example on a line with a pump, then only it will turn off, and the power supply to the entire house will not be affected. This number of RCDs may seem excessive to many. Indeed, a sufficient minimum is one incoming RCD for the entire facility with a leakage current of 30 mA. Remember - there should always be an RCD. Even if your apartment does not have a modernized input and uses a TN-C connection with two wires. Yes, you do not have a separate grounding, and the RCD will not handle the situation of phase leakage to the device body without the “help” of a person. But the RCD will protect the person.
23. Well, the final types of sockets in the premises. Let me remind you that on outlet lines the circuit breaker should not exceed the rating of 16A (for example, the line to the bedroom is made with NYM 3x1.5 mm² cable (I don’t see the need to include a load of more than 2 kW there), and therefore the circuit breaker on this line has a rating of current 10A.
24. And a few words about lighting. Everywhere in the house there are inexpensive lamps chambered for GU10. As for LED lamps, I ordered several models from China for testing, and also took “Russian China” ones under the Camelion and Woltra brands. With the price of the latter being about 230 rubles per lamp, I’ll honestly say that buying anything from China is pointless. All samples priced at less than 150 rubles apiece have a serious spread in color temperature, not to mention too low (Ra<70) индексе цветопередачи.
Everything related to electrical networks is described in detail and clearly in the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules). There are some differences between chapters, but overall everything is correct.
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A prerequisite for the life of each of us is the presence of electricity in a private home. Without it, we would not be able to have fun, perform various household chores, create light at night, and carry out many other things.
In other words, the role of electricity is invaluable and its absence is to some extent associated with the cessation of life. That is why it is very important to ensure the presence of electric current in our home.
In order to use it, we need to do two things:
- Connect to the general electrical network.
- Organize electrical wiring in any corner of a private house, that is, lay cables through which electric current will pass.
The first stage is carried out by specialists from the company that services the electrical networks. That is, we are not doing anything here. To connect to the power grid, the employees of this company install a central circuit breaker (switch), “protection” and an electric meter.
All other electrical wiring work is carried out by ourselves. Of course, this can also be done by specialists for a fee. However, in any case, we must clearly know what components the wiring in a private house consists of, how it should be organized and how it is installed?
This knowledge will make it possible to check the quality of the hired specialist’s work and protect against various future problems.
If you are planning to save money, then this knowledge will help you lay electrical wiring in any corner of a private house using your own hands.
Before considering all the features of electrical wiring installation, you should consider what elements are necessary for organizing and installing a home electrical network.
What type of cable should it be?
And so, to install electrical wiring, the owner of a private house needs to stock up on a certain amount of cable and electrical accessories (we will consider its types below). The cable may be . Of course it must have insulation.
Helpful tip: It will be better if you use a copper cable. The reason for this is that it has more bandwidth. This makes it possible to use wire with a smaller cross-section.
Another advantage of a copper cable is that it can withstand a greater load than an electrical wire made of aluminum.
Different types of cable
It’s also worth saying about this moment. A private house can be supplied with both single-phase and three-phase power. In the case when it is necessary to supply current to single-phase devices, the cable must be three-core.
One conductor is phase, the other is neutral, and the third is intended for grounding. In case of laying three-phase power, the cable must be five-core.
For wiring, both flat (convenient to install under plaster) and round cables can be used. Their important characteristic is the cross section.
The choice of electrical wire with a certain cross-section depends on the load level. So, if a wire is laid to the sockets, then this value should be at least 2.5 square meters. millimeters. Cables for powering lighting devices must have a cross-section that is at least 1.5 square meters. millimeters.
Helpful advice: in order not to make a mistake with the cross-section of the electrical wire, you need to calculate the power of all possible devices that will be powered from a separate wire. Of course, you need to take into account some amount as a reserve. After this, the total power must be divided into 220 (if one phase enters the house) or 380 volts (if there is a three-phase network). As a result, you will know the current that the cable must carry.
Based on this value, you can determine the desired cross-section. To do this, you need to use special tables.
Necessary electrical accessories and requirements for them
As for the electrical accessories that will be used in a private home to create electrical wiring, it may consist of:
- mounting boxes;
- sockets;
- any types of switches;
- switches;
- call buttons and other types.
Mounting boxes are used in any room and can be characterized by different shapes. So, their shape can be round, square or rectangular. The purpose of these boxes may vary.
Some of them are used to install sockets or switches. They are mounted under the plaster and do not have a top cover. There are also boxes that are also installed under the plaster, but have a lid. They are either distributional or through.
In addition to these, there are also external (outer) boxes. It is worth noting that most boxes are not sealed. However, some are sealed.
Helpful Hint: Various wires are often connected and routed in these boxes. To connect them you need to use a distribution ring and special clamps. If you simply twist the wires and use insulating tape, then such a connection will be unreliable. The result is sparking in the box. And that's the minimum.
As for sockets, now you need to use sockets with three poles. The third pole is a safety contact that connects to the ground wire.
It is advisable to use sealed electrical accessories on the external walls of a private house, on a balcony, porch, etc.
So, you should stock up on materials before you begin installing wiring inside and outside a private house.
If we talk about the principle of laying electrical wiring in a private house, then it is not much different from the same process within the walls of an apartment. The main difference is that a private house can have several floors and, in addition to many household appliances, it can also use powerful electrical appliances that are part of heating, water supply systems or are intended for certain industrial purposes.
Another difference is receiving current from different sources. A private house receives current from a local transformer or from a power pole.
How to plan wiring?
In order for the process of laying wiring to be carried out very competently and at the same time the wiring to serve for a long time, it is necessary to carry out proper planning for its implementation. In other words, you need to make a diagram.
Installation of three hidden sockets in the wall
This list must be compiled for each room and each auxiliary building. When developing this list, it is worth considering that in the future the list of electrical appliances will only expand.
Taking this into account, you need to decide where and how additional devices will be connected.
In the process of planning the placement of outlets, it is also worth deciding on the location of electrical appliances and other electrical “users” that will be used in the future.
That is, you need to decide where the chandeliers will be placed, where the TV will be, and where the refrigerator and other devices will be placed.
It will not be superfluous to determine the connection points for those electrical installations that will be used outside the house, that is, in the yard or landscaped area.
When this work is done, we begin to draw up a wiring diagram that will be used in a private house. Drawing up such a diagram is very important. Thanks to it, it will be possible to determine all the required quantities of materials.
At the same time, during installation you will not forget to install some kind of socket or run a certain cable. Another advantage of this arrangement is that in the future, when making repairs, you will know where all the electrical wires run.
This will eliminate any possibility of accidental damage to the cable during repair work.
What should the wiring be like?
It is worth noting that drawing up a diagram has its secrets. These secrets concern the correct routing of cables and their wiring. Let's note how to do the wiring correctly.
Electrical wiring outlines
So, electricity enters a private house through an electric meter. After it, a distribution board is installed. It is from this shield that the wiring of various wires begins. Each of them can be called a circuit.
The number of these circuits directly depends on the number of rooms in a private house and electrical devices that are planned to be used. A small private house may have only two circuits.
One of them is assigned for sockets, the other for lighting fixtures.
Helpful advice: when drawing up any wiring diagram, regardless of the size of a private house, there should always be a separate wiring for lighting and a separate wiring for sockets.
The reason for this is that lighting fixtures and appliances plugged into outlets have different wattages. As a result, powering light fixtures requires thinner wires than powering a refrigerator or microwave or any other electrical device.
In fact, this advice can be called mandatory. This will save on the purchase of cables. Otherwise, that is, if you connect both sockets and lamps to the same wiring, then if the cable burns out or shorts, you will not be able to use any device or lamp that is connected to this wire.
Another advantage of having a large number of circuits is easy troubleshooting.
It should be borne in mind that it is better to organize a wiring diagram that will provide for the installation of more circuits than a private house requires. This will reduce stress on the wires and eliminate the need for additional wiring in the future.
A mandatory rule is to equip each circuit with a circuit breaker. The group of circuits must also be connected to a differential relay (RCD). Both the switch and the RCD are mounted in the distribution panel.
When drawing up a diagram, you need to take into account one more nuance: there are electrical appliances that have more power (water pump or electric stove). For them you need to use a cable with a large cross-section. Of course, this cable will be a separate circuit.
As for the maximum load on the circuit, this value depends on the type of network. If it is three-phase, then at home the maximum load on one wiring should not exceed six kilowatts.
Devices whose total power should not exceed two kilowatts must be connected to one wiring of a two-phase system. This must be taken into account when determining the number of circuits to use.
Real power supply diagram for a private house
Compliance with this condition will increase the level of safety of both three-phase and two-phase wiring in a private home. In general, the wiring diagram in a private house may look like this:
If a private house consists of several floors, then electricity must be supplied to each floor through a separate wiring. Experts recommend connecting rooms separately.
Where should the switches be installed?
It is worth paying attention to the fact that the requirements for electrical wiring in some rooms are more stringent. The list of these rooms includes those that are characterized by the constant presence of water and high levels of humidity. An example is a bathroom, toilet or laundry room.
Switch connection diagram
The main requirement for these rooms is to move all switches outside of them. That is, switches cannot be installed in the middle of them. Compliance with this requirement will increase the level of safety.
As for other rooms, you can use switches in them. It is advisable that they be at a height of 90-140 centimeters. In this case, the distance between the wooden door frame and the switch should be 15 centimeters.
The switch should be on the same side of the door as the handle.
The circuit must also include a grounding circuit.
Once you have made the wiring diagram, you can begin installing each wire and all electrical accessories. One of the main processes is wiring installation. It can be carried out in various ways.
Hidden wiring
The wiring can be installed openly and hidden under plaster. The last option is very popular.
It consists of installing each electrical wire on the wall before the process of applying plaster occurs. In this case, the installation must be carried out according to certain rules.
Thus, the cable can only be laid in a horizontal or vertical position. Installation diagonally is undesirable, and is prohibited in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen.
By adhering to this rule, in the future it will be possible to easily guess the location of the electrical wires in case the circuit is lost.
It is recommended to lay horizontal wiring under the ceiling at a level that is 30 centimeters lower. Of course, there will be sockets in any room. You can also use horizontal wiring for them. However, it should be carried out at a height of 30 centimeters from the floor.
As for the vertical laying of cables near the corner of a wall or door frame, this process can be carried out at a distance of 15 centimeters from them.
After securing the wiring, distribution boxes are installed, plaster is applied, and switches and sockets are installed. Now you know how to properly install hidden wiring in any part of a private house.
You can also use corrugated sleeves. They are mounted on the wall. Also, distribution boxes are installed at their outputs. After this, plaster is applied.
Finally, the required number of electrical wires can be pulled through these corrugated hoses. This option has many advantages. The main one is the ability to simply replace a damaged (burnt out) electrical cable without the need to tear it out from under the plaster.
Installation of open wiring
Also, in a private house, you can install open wiring with your own hands (its photo is given below). 
Typically, this type of electrical wiring is installed in the middle of auxiliary utility rooms, on the facades of a private house and in the basement. It is also often used in residential areas.
If we talk about auxiliary buildings, they can use multi-core electrical cables or a large number of single-core electrical cables. The first type of cable is mounted on the wall and attached to it with special clamps. Single-core electrical wires must be pulled into corrugated hoses.
Using installation boxes
If we talk about open wiring of electrical communications inside a private house, then it is advisable to use installation boxes for its installation.
Installation box for sockets
These boxes have a fairly aesthetic appearance and are used for installing the electrical network after the owner has completed finishing and painting the walls. Thanks to them, you can change electrical wiring without destroying the plaster of the walls.
Such boxes can be mounted along the ceiling, floor or door frame. They may have one, two or more channels. Of course, each of these channels can be used for laying different cables.
The material from which installation boxes are made is either plastic or aluminum. The inside of the aluminum box is covered with plastic.
The bottom side is perforated. It is worth noting that the use of these boxes is very beneficial since they can be easily cut and bent. This makes it possible to customize them to fit any room size.
The sizes of these boxes may vary. It is advisable to use very large boxes in cases where wiring is used to power various types of equipment.
To ensure that they do not stand out against the background of the interior, you can choose a trim or cover that has a color that matches the design.
Sockets are installed on top of these boxes.
It should be kept in mind that each outlet that is installed with exposed wiring must have a fully protective enclosure. This socket is mounted directly on the wall. The same are the requirements for switches that will be used in the case of open wiring.
Using a floor box
Quite often, private houses have rooms with a large area. And if there is a need to place several electrical appliances at a certain distance from the wall and the owner does not want to stretch the cable along the floor, a floor box can be built into the floor. Of course, the cable will already go under the floor.
Using a floor box will eliminate loose wires that can lie on the floor and create obstructions while you move. Such boxes are mounted in the floor and are located at the same level as the floor.
In this case, the box lid can be designed in the style of the floor. As a result, the floor box will not be an obstacle and will not become a thing that spoils the design. Moreover, it is characterized by tightness, which does not create any risks during wet cleaning.
After all the installation work has been done, the electrical wiring needs to be checked. This process should not be limited to simply turning on the lamp and checking whether it lights up.
You need to determine whether all the elements required by the circuit are installed, whether the RCDs and circuit breakers are working, and how good the grounding connection is. You should also check the reliability of fastening switches, sockets and other elements.
Video. DIY wiring in a private house
Today, the load on old electrical wires has increased several times. This is due to the fact that almost every apartment contains many household appliances. Old wiring cannot always withstand such a load. Wiring electrical wiring in an apartment requires certain knowledge of drawing up diagrams, as well as compliance with a number of rules. Therefore, in order to perform this operation yourself, you will need to familiarize yourself with all its nuances.
Any construction event is regulated by relevant documentation approved by the state. This also applies to the huge variety of materials used in one case or another. Today, GOST and SNiP act as regulatory documents. In turn, any work related to electricity is subject to the Electrical Installation Rules (RUE).
Before starting work with the electrical network, it is necessary to thoroughly study all the points specified in the PUE. It is recommended to pay special attention to the paragraph that describes the features of installation and selection of electrical equipment. Let's consider the basic rules for electrical installation in an apartment.
All important elements of electrical equipment should be located in plain sight. They must be provided with quick and convenient access. When installing switches, it is recommended to take into account the height of their placement (from the floor). In accordance with the standards, this indicator should be in the range from 50 to 150 cm. The location of the switches is selected in such a way that open doors do not cause inconvenience when using them. Wiring to the switches is carried out from top to bottom.
The minimum recommended height for sockets is 50 cm, and the maximum is 80 cm. This rule protects electrical appliances from water in the event of flooding of the apartment. Sockets must be located at points that are at a sufficient distance (at least 50 cm) from gas stoves. The same distance should be to radiators, pipes and other objects equipped with grounding. Electrical wiring to sockets is supplied from bottom to top. These rules must be taken into account when drawing up an electrical plan.
Note! The number of outlets in one room is determined based on the square footage of the room. There is one rule, using which you can easily determine the required figure. According to it, one product should fit an area of 6 m².
However, this method is not suitable for determining the number of sockets in the kitchen. For a given room, their number is assigned individually and depends on the number of household electrical appliances. As for the toilet, installing sockets in it is prohibited. These products are allowed to be installed in the bathroom, but they require an individual transformer.
When laying wires in an apartment, you need to know that this operation can be carried out using a hidden or open method. In the first case, the cable is placed in a groove inside the wall, and in the second - outside. The laying itself is carried out strictly vertically or horizontally, and its place must be fixed on the general plan.
When installing wiring, you must maintain a distance from pipelines and ceilings. For lines laid in a horizontal plane, the recommended distance to the ceiling is 10 cm. For them, the distance to the cornice or floor beam must be at least 15 cm. In addition, horizontal lines must be installed at a certain distance from the floor (at least 15 cm) .
For lines that are mounted vertically, there are also certain rules. For example, the distance from a door or window opening must be at least 10 cm. Vertical wires must also be installed at a distance of 40 cm from gas communications.
It is very important when doing electrical wiring to ensure that the cables do not come into contact with metal elements in the walls or outside. If it is necessary to install several parallel (relative to each other) wires, a distance of 3 mm must be maintained between them. Such cables may come into contact, but for this they are placed in a special protective tube -.
When wiring wires in the panel, their connections are carefully insulated. It is important to remember that joining copper and aluminum cables is prohibited. It is customary to use bolts to organize connections. This method is used for grounding and neutral wires.
Electrical installation in an apartment: stages of work
Having a clear plan, installing electrical wiring in a residential area can be completed not only faster, but also cheaper. This event includes 5 main stages:
- Development of an electrical circuit for the apartment.
- Preparation of an electrical wiring plan, as well as its approval and registration (together with the diagram).
- Arrangement of a temporary repair shed.
- Installation of electrical wiring.
- Installation of automatic machines, sockets, switches and necessary household appliances.
Note! Before proceeding with installation steps, care must be taken to ensure protective grounding. For safety reasons, you can perform a zeroing. Direct electrical wiring throughout the house is carried out at the last stage, when all the necessary mechanisms are installed.
In this case, cost savings occur. For example, you can perform some installation steps yourself. Experts do not recommend saving money on equipment or electrical appliances. All necessary mechanisms must be of the highest quality, since cheap products can fail after a short period of time.
Why do you need a wiring diagram in an apartment?
Modern electrical wiring is a very complex undertaking that requires professional knowledge and skills. To perform such an operation, it is best to involve a qualified specialist. If you need to do electrical wiring in a new building, it is recommended to draw up a drawing that will contain all the important objects related to electricity. This is very convenient to do before starting repairs. Key objects related to electricity:
- sockets;
- switches;
- lamps, chandeliers and other lighting fixtures;
- electrical panel with a residual current device (RCD).
The specialist must draw up a diagram taking into account all the necessary wishes of the owners and the individual features of the home layout. The main job of the master is to divide the cable into separate lines that will function effectively. This task requires proper load distribution, as well as the organization of control systems and protection of electrical wiring in the apartment.
Before starting to draw up a drawing or plan, it is recommended to study the purpose and features of all the individual components of the electrical network. Automatic devices that protect the network from overloads and are located in the electrical panel are a very important component of this system. How the electrical network will function, as well as its safety, depends on their proper installation.
The wires supplying electric current to various points must be correctly selected. They may have different sections. The choice of this indicator is made individually. Sockets and switches must be equipped with reliable contacts.
Electrical wiring in the house has some peculiarities. In particular, one more element is added to the above elements - an introductory machine. From it the power cable is supplied to the panel. Its main function is to regulate power in the network. If necessary, this element is capable of turning off the power supply.
How to install cables throughout an apartment: example
Control of the electrical network is simplified if it has several directions. Dividing the electrical network into lines allows you to turn off one of them and use others if necessary. The most common wiring option takes into account 4 directions:
- kitchen;
- bathroom;
- Large home appliances;
- lighting system.
Helpful information! In some cases, the installation of wiring in an apartment takes into account the installation of a separate cable (for example, for a washing machine). This is because the older system may not be able to withstand the voltage required by modern technology.
Each of the above 4 directions has its own wiring features. There are also certain rules that must be followed when installing electrical elements in the kitchen or bathroom. Experts recommend familiarizing yourself with the arrangement of each line in more detail. This will give you an idea of how to do the wiring correctly.
Electrical wiring in the kitchen: what you need to know
In most cases, it is the kitchen line that accounts for the main load in the electrical network. It’s quite simple to explain: the kitchen contains a large number of household appliances. The refrigerator, washing machine, microwave and other appliances are connected to the network and consume a lot of electricity. In addition to large household appliances, most families use electric grills, multicookers, toasters, etc.
It is worth remembering one important rule, which tells us that for the most powerful household appliances it is recommended to install separate circuit breakers in the distribution panel. It is best to make separate electrical connections, since the common line may simply not withstand the simultaneous use of several large appliances.
If you run a separate cable to a powerful electrical appliance, then it becomes possible to use several household appliances simultaneously without fear that the network will not withstand the load.
Installing and connecting electrical outlets in the kitchen requires knowledge of certain rules. It is not recommended to place them closer than 0.5 m to the gas stove. Wiring cables also requires maintaining a distance from the gas stove and pipes (at least 40 cm). Don't forget about the heating radiator. Electrical points and wires must not be placed in close proximity to the battery. Compliance with these rules will allow you to correctly install electricity in the kitchen.
Electrical wiring in the bathroom: basic rules
The placement of electrical appliances in the bathroom and toilet requires increased attention from the master. This is due to the fact that these rooms have high levels of humidity. In order to secure the electrical network, it is necessary to study a number of important rules and recommendations that will help to carry out proper installation of the line.
First of all, you need to remember that it is strictly forbidden to place the junction box in the bathroom. It must be installed outside a wet area. The ideal option is to place the shield in the hallway. To design the electrical system in the bathroom, it is recommended to contact a specialist.
The second point to remember: for each electrical appliance, be it a washing machine or a hair dryer, you need to equip a separate outlet. It is advisable to indicate on the diagram according to which the wiring will be carried out, all electrical appliances in the bathroom, as well as their connection points.
Helpful information! Currently, it is possible to purchase waterproof sockets equipped with a lid and a seal that prevents moisture from penetrating into the device and oxidizing the contacts.
It is strictly forbidden to place the switch inside the bathroom. It is usually installed on the outside, near the front door (for ease of use).
Related article:
Description of preparatory activities and installation technology. Electrical handling rules and safety requirements.
When installing electrics in an apartment with your own hands, you will also need to pay attention to the cable wiring in a damp room. The best option for its location would be near the ceiling at the top of the wall. Experts recommend placing the wire parallel to the floor. In this case, a special corrugated tube is used to protect the cable. Lamps in the bathroom are selected individually. Standard devices that correspond to a voltage of 220 V are best replaced with low-power 12 V analogues.
The bathroom also requires selecting wiring. For small electrical appliances, cables with a cross-section of 2.5 mm should be used. It is best to connect wires with a diameter of 4 mm to large household appliances.
Electrical wiring in the apartment: Large home appliances
Household appliances that consume large amounts of electricity are most often located in the bathroom and kitchen. When installing large electrical appliances, there are a number of rules that should be followed.
Experts do not recommend installing sockets in such a way that they are covered by household appliances. They should be located in a visible place for ease of access. The most acceptable option is to install waterproof models equipped with a lid. When drawing up a project for the electrical supply of an apartment, it is necessary to record the points at which the large appliances will be located.
During the renovation, you need to make a separate connection for the kitchen area. In the future, this will make it possible to replace electrical appliances without disconnecting the entire apartment from the network. This option is especially suitable for kitchens that include built-in appliances. This is due to the fact that such devices are connected in hard-to-reach places, so their repair can take a long time.
Electrical wiring in the apartment: lighting group
Today it is possible to organize one or more lighting lines. The choice of their number depends on how many light-producing devices are located in the home. For example, if a powerful chandelier is installed in the living room, including 6 shades, and in the bedroom there are 1-2 sconces, then everything can be connected in one line.
As an opposite example, we can consider a hall that is illuminated not only by a chandelier, but also by spotlights, as well as other elements, for example, furniture lighting. For such a room, a separate line will be required.
Note! At the design stage of electrical wiring, you need to clearly determine the number of lighting fixtures and calculate their power. Based on this data, a decision is made as to whether the lighting line needs to be divided into two or more directions. This information also needs to be recorded on the general plan.
It is worth noting that in some cases, in addition to lighting fixtures, the network of one of the rooms includes transformers. In this situation, it is necessary to connect this direction to a separate automatic protection device.
Wiring diagram in the apartment: options for connecting elements in electrical circuits
Drawing up a residential electrical wiring diagram is a serious task. A person doing such work must clearly understand the basics of electrical engineering and have certain skills. Therefore, it is not recommended to take on this matter if you are not confident in your abilities. Errors in the circuit can lead to serious consequences. Most fires nowadays occur due to faulty wiring.
It is best to entrust the work of drawing up the electrical diagram to a specialist. To independently carry out this process, you should not only have knowledge in this area, but also know what options there are for connecting electrical circuits. Let's consider these methods in more detail.
Consistent. In this case, each element of the electrical circuit follows the previous one. The serial connection is made without organizing node joints, which is also indicated in the wiring diagram in the apartment. An example of this method is a regular Christmas tree garland, which includes light bulbs located on one wire and following each other. It is worth remembering that this method has some disadvantages. For example, if one element breaks down, all others will also turn off.
Parallel. This option differs from the previous one in that the elements that make up the electrical circuit are not connected to each other. They have a parallel arrangement and are grouped into two separate nodes. Thus, if one line fails, the second will continue to operate normally.
Combined. This method is also called mixed, since it takes into account the use of both series and parallel connections of electrical circuit elements. This wiring diagram in the house is not used as often as the previous two.
How to properly organize electrical wiring: main types
Before starting installation work, it is necessary to determine the option for wiring electrical cables in the room, according to which the wiring diagram of the house or apartment will be carried out. This choice determines how the electrical network will function, so it is recommended to consult with a specialist knowledgeable in this matter. Today you can find three main wiring options.
Using a distribution board. Connecting the constituent elements of the electrical network using this method is the most common. In this case, the distribution box is installed in a pre-prepared niche on the landing.
Wiring type "Star"
An electric meter and circuit breakers are placed inside the panel, aimed at protecting the system from overloads. A cable is routed from the distribution box into the home. Its cross-section must comply with the standard. Subsequently, electrical wiring is carried out. In a new building, this operation is easiest to perform.
In this case, each room is equipped with a distribution box. It is usually located at the entrance to the room (above the switch). It is through the use of such boxes that all electrical appliances in the room are powered.
"Star". This type of wiring takes into account the presence of separate lines for each electrical device (socket, switch, etc.). All of them are connected directly to the electrical panel. Having a separate switch for each cable line is not a mandatory requirement, but is quite common.
Note! The star option is the most expensive. This is due to an increase in the amount of wiring required and the need to purchase a more capacious panel. Do not also forget about the installation costs of laying cables in the apartment.
Despite the high cost, this type of wiring is the most convenient and reliable. The “star” option provides the possibility of individual control. This way, you can turn off a single element while all other devices will function. This type is quite often used for electrical wiring in new buildings. Price is not an obstacle when the issue concerns the safety of residents.
"Plume". The last type of wiring, which has common features with the “star” option. The main difference is that one cable line can carry several electrical appliances. Accordingly, in this case the cost of the system decreases, since its organization requires less materials, time and effort.
The type of wiring is determined individually, and a diagram is drawn up in accordance with it. On the Internet you can find programs for calculating electrical circuits that allow you to independently perform this operation in the shortest possible time.
Wiring type "Line"
It is important to remember that the second and third types are often combined. This allows you to reduce financial costs and increase the capabilities of the system. Maximum efficiency and safety of residents are the main goals that are achieved during the installation of electrical wiring.
Independent drawing up of a project and wiring diagram
The first thing you need to do before starting the installation of electrical wiring is to draw up a project that takes into account all the steps step by step, and a wiring diagram. Independent design is not recommended, since the future performance and safety of the system depend on it. A professional will handle this matter much faster and, most importantly, with better quality.
If you independently draw up a power supply diagram for an apartment, you will need to study the basic principles and understand the features of the operation of this system. It is also necessary to draw up a general drawing that includes all elements (without exception), and calculate the load on the network.
In the diagram, all electrical elements that make up the system are indicated using special symbols. This allows you to transfer communication, including devices, onto paper as concisely as possible. In order not to get confused, it is recommended to write down all the symbols and their interpretation in advance.
Using the designations, it is necessary to mark on the electrical wiring diagram in a house or apartment the points at which electrical appliances will be located. It is important to remember that such a document is drawn up precisely in order to mark on paper the installation locations of sockets, switches and lighting fixtures, as well as connecting wiring.
Note! Before you start creating a diagram, you need to decide on the number of household appliances, as well as designate a place for each device. Otherwise, the location of the sockets may be incorrect.
After identifying the key points, you need to mark the cable paths on the apartment wiring diagram. To do this, you will need to select the option of joining individual elements in the circuit and the type of wiring. For convenience, experts advise dividing the electrical wiring in the room into separate zones:
- lighting area (corridor, kitchen, living rooms and a separate one for the bathroom);
- power supply zone (divided into three groups: corridor and living rooms, kitchen and a separate one for an electric stove).
This option is one of many possible ways to electrify an apartment or private house. It is worth noting that today you can draw up a diagram using a special program for electricians.
If necessary, you can contact a specialist who will draw up an individual scheme that best suits your specific housing circumstances. Division into zones allows you to combine disparate electrical appliances and wiring and organize them, which will help save material during installation.
In order to simplify the installation of cables indoors, it is recommended to route the electrical wiring along the floor (for example, in the cavity of the baseboard) or under it. All lines must be marked on the diagram as a dotted line.
Among other things, you need to perform an individual calculation of materials, as well as determine the current strength in the system. There are special formulas for this. As a rule, the current strength in a modern residential building does not exceed 25 A. Based on this parameter, you need to select materials that will meet the requirements of the system.
The apartment wiring diagram must contain information about the length of the cables. The length of the wires is determined using a regular tape measure. It is recommended to add 3 meters of reserve to the final figure.
All cables are connected to the lighting panel, which is most often located in the hallway near the door. It also includes an RCD, which is divided into 2 types: 16 and 20 A. In the first case, the circuit breaker is responsible for lighting fixtures and switches, and in the second, for sockets. When connecting an electric stove separately, another type of RCD is installed - 32 A.
In order to complete the circuit, you need to count the number of sockets and junction boxes. The last step will be to add auxiliary materials (insulating tape, corrugated pipes, etc.) to the apartment’s power supply diagram.
Installation of wiring in the apartment: calculation of materials
Once the electrical wiring diagram is ready, you will need to calculate the materials that will be used during installation. First of all, it is necessary to calculate the number of cables, since they supply electric current, which allows the devices to function normally.
- number of sockets and switches;
- number of lighting products;
- places for installing electrical appliances.
Next, you need to measure the distance to each electrical point (from the junction box). The footage is determined using a construction tape. The data obtained during the measurement must be indicated in the electrical wiring plan for the apartment, and then added up.
Helpful information! Experts recommend adding 10 to 15% reserve to the total amount of electrical wiring. This need is due to the fact that various unforeseen situations often occur during installation.
During operation of the electrical network, the wires heat up. Because of this, they should not be placed in one place in large quantities. You should always pay attention to the standards that are specified in the regulatory documentation governing electrical networks. Often during installation it is necessary to arrange parallel wiring with bends and turns.
Modern cables have a three-core structure, in which copper is the key material. Aluminum wiring in apartments is used very rarely, since copper is a more acceptable material and meets current standards. The wire cross-section is selected individually depending on the calculated power in the system. In order to select the desired section, you can use one of the tables on the Internet.
The standard option is to use a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm (for supplying electric current to sockets). In turn, the lighting fixtures are powered using 1.5 mm wires. After calculating the required amount of wiring, you can begin to calculate the required number of other materials:
- sockets and switches;
- lighting fixtures;
- distribution boxes;
- protective tubes (corrugated);
- cable channels;
- terminal blocks and fastenings.
Correct calculation of all the necessary materials will simplify the work of arranging electrical wiring in the apartment with your own hands. In order to protect yourself from voltage surges in the electrical system, you should purchase a special stabilizer. Today you can choose a powerful device that can cover the needs of the entire apartment, or divide the zones of influence by installing several small models.
Which cable to choose for organizing electrical wiring in an apartment?
The modern electronics market can surprise any consumer with a variety of devices, cables and other elements used in the installation of electrical networks. Today it is possible to purchase several types of wires of foreign and domestic production.
NYM. An expensive option, which is produced by a German company. It has a high degree of security and can include from 1 to 5 cores. However, the disadvantage of such a cable is that it does not have sufficient resistance to moisture. In addition, the outer sheath of such a wire is made of polyvinyl chloride, which makes it vulnerable to ultraviolet radiation.
Note! NYM cable is not recommended to be installed in places not protected from direct sunlight. It is also not recommended to use it for organizing electrical wiring in a wooden house.
VVG. This cable is quite expensive, but its insulation characteristics are superior to other domestic analogues. It consists of one core, which is an advantage for laying inside walls. This cable is most often used when installing or replacing electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands.
PUNP. This cable includes 2 or 3 copper cores. The outer protective sheath of such a wire is made of PVC, so it is not recommended to install it in places that are not protected from sunlight. It costs less than other analogues. However, you should not purchase this cable for self-installation, since its installation is more labor-intensive compared to installing a VVG (due to its rigidity).
It should be remembered that not only the efficiency, but also the operational life of the entire system depends on the choice of wiring. Therefore, before purchasing a cable, you need to calculate whether it is suitable for a specific power.
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the house: tools and materials
Before starting wiring installation, you need to purchase all materials and prepare the appropriate tools. First of all, you will need a hammer drill. It is used to groove channels for future wiring. It is also worth preparing the following attachments for the hammer drill:
- (16-20 mm);
- core drill (90-100 mm);
- chisel for concrete (25-30 mm);
- set of drills.
Rules for laying electrical wiring take into account the use of other tools. For example, you will need a grinder equipped with a circle that allows you to work on stone. You also need to purchase a soldering tool, an indicator for determining phases and a universal electrical multimeter.
Auxiliary tools include side cutters, which must have insulated handles, a mounting knife, and a flashlight. Among other things, you will need a building level and a cord, as well as tools for finishing the channels (spatula).
Installation of electrical wiring in the apartment: preparatory stage
Electrical wiring in the room can be done alone. The main thing to adhere to is to follow installation rules and safety precautions. The master is required not only to understand the basics of this field, but also to know the working nuances.
Note! In case of replacing old wiring with new one, you must first find and dismantle the old cables. To find these lines, you can use a wiring gauge.
Preparatory work includes several stages. First, you should make markings on the walls that correspond to future channels with wires. Wall marking is carried out in accordance with all necessary rules for cable placement. It is important that all actions are thought out in advance and indicated in the electrical project. The apartment must have a sufficient number of electrical appliances to satisfy the needs of the owners.
After marking the lines, the points where electrical appliances will be installed are marked, namely: switches, sockets, junction box, and lamps.
When wiring electrics in a new building, the panel is located in a special niche. In turn, in old-style buildings the box is simply installed on the wall. Of course, you can make the niche yourself, but this will complicate the electrical wiring work. Once the marking is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation work.
Installation of new wiring in the apartment: wall chipping
Before you start organizing channels for cables, you need to remember that they must be straight. Grooving is carried out only in horizontal and vertical planes. This is because diagonal elements are much more difficult to perform, as a result of which such work can lead to injury.
In the case of arranging a horizontal channel under the ceiling, it is necessary to maintain the distance specified in the building codes, namely 50 cm. Grilling is quite within the power of every person and can be done easily with your own hands. The wiring into the apartment is pulled from the panel.
Let's consider the sequence of actions during gating. First of all, it is necessary to draw the boundaries of the channel using a grinder. This operation is performed strictly according to the markings. Next, using a hammer drill equipped with a chisel, a groove of the required width is made. For smooth curves of the line, it is necessary to make oblique cuts inside the corners. A grinder is used for this.
The next step is to drill small niches in the wall that will be used for sockets. To do this, the nozzle on the hammer drill is replaced with a core drill. It is important to remember that with the help of such a tool, holes are made in brick walls. For concrete surfaces, an ordinary chisel is also suitable, which will not deteriorate if it hits the reinforcement during the organization of power supply to the apartment.
The recess intended for the high-voltage switchboard at the meter is also made using a chisel. It is worth noting that experts do not recommend using double grooves when organizing holes for switches. The best option in this case is to purchase a corrugated tube that will accommodate both wires.
Helpful information! When working with a hammer drill, it is necessary to prepare a comfortable and reliable support that can withstand the weight of a person. Suitable for this purpose with side stop elements. It is not recommended to use a regular ladder as it may tip over.
Separately, it is worth examining the nuances of wiring in the apartment along the ceiling. Today there are 3 popular ways to organize lines on this surface. The first method takes into account the masking of cables using suspended ceilings. The second option is to organize a shallow groove and then finish it.
The third method has some nuances. It takes into account the location of cables in the ceiling. For panel buildings, ceilings with internal voids are used, so the wire can simply be pulled through one of them, making two holes (input and output).
At the end of the grooves in the walls, you need to make connecting holes between the rooms. This work is also done using a hammer drill. For maximum invisibility, through holes are arranged in the corners of the room. Then you need to run the cable to the lighting box from the panel. Do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment requires wearing protective equipment (glasses and gloves).
Electrical installation: installation of a lighting panel
Once the wiring channels are ready, you can begin installing the panel responsible for lighting. In this case, there are two installation options: in a niche or on the wall. The panel must contain an RCD, the number of which depends on the number of devices in the home.
To clearly explain the design of the shield, experts divide it into three conventional parts: upper, middle and lower. The first of them should contain zero terminals. Grounding clamps are mounted at the bottom, and circuit breakers are located in the middle part. The installation location of this structure must be indicated in the electrical plan. In the apartment, VVG cables (5x6 and 2x6) are installed to the lighting panel.
Connecting cables to the junction box is carried out with the participation of an electrician. Therefore, at this stage there is no need to engage in this type of work. The wires that connect to the lighting panel have multi-colored external markings, which allows you to accurately connect them to the right points. For example, a cable painted yellow with a green stripe is connected to ground. In turn, blue is connected to zero, and white is connected to the upper contact of the RCD.
Installation of external wiring in the apartment: action algorithm
In order to route cables openly, you will need to install cable ducts. Installation of these elements is carried out according to the markings prepared earlier. The most acceptable option for the location of such channels is the area of the baseboards or, conversely, a place right under the ceiling.
In order to fix the box, you should prepare self-tapping screws. Their step should be approximately 0.5 m. The process of securing the channel is quite simple. It is necessary to retreat from its edge from 5 to 10 cm and make a hole. Then, using a hammer drill or drill, you need to drill a hole in the wall and insert a dowel into it. All that remains is to attach the box to it - and you're done.
Helpful information! Open wiring also has other features that relate to basic electrical appliances: sockets, switches, etc. During installation, such elements are placed on the surface of the wall, and not inside the holes.
The next stage involves wiring open wiring. This process has some distinctive features that are worth paying attention to. All work is carried out in accordance with the electrical wiring diagram. First of all, it is necessary to extend the main line from the sockets to the lighting panel.
It is important to remember that VVG 3x2.5 cable is used to lay the main line. To avoid confusion, experts recommend labeling wires to indicate their function. The next thing to do is to extend lines from switches and lighting elements to the distribution panels. For this, a wire of a different diameter (3x1.5) is used.
It is important to select cables with the correct cross-section. This will allow you to carry out reliable and efficient electrical wiring in the apartment with your own hands. In this case, the diagram is a hint according to which installation work is carried out.
The wires are connected to the lighting panel using PPE caps. All connections must be equipped with reliable insulation in accordance with safety regulations. Next, you need to connect the main cable to the lighting panel and check all the wires using a tester. After this, you need to call an electrician (to connect the system to the panel).
Installation of internal electrical wiring and its verification
The hidden wiring arrangement has much in common with the external method. The main difference with this method is that the wires are positioned so that they are not visible to the eye. This event has a clear algorithm of actions that must be followed when installing electrical wiring in a private house or apartment.
First of all, the lighting box and circuit breakers are installed. Then you need to run the input cable from the side of the distribution panel. As with outdoor wiring, you don't need to wire it yourself. An electrician is also required for this job.
The next step requires drilling holes into which the socket boxes will be mounted. The same operation must be done with indoor distribution boxes. Upon completion of this work, you can proceed directly to the electrical wiring in the apartment. The price of installing this turnkey system (for new buildings) can be different and depends on the number of rooms. For example, for a one-room apartment the total cost ranges from 25 to 35 thousand rubles, and for a two-room apartment - approximately 30-45 thousand rubles.
Note! Self-installation will save money, but organizing power supply is not only a responsible, but also a dangerous task. Therefore, if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to use the services of a specialist.
Many people are interested in the question of how to conduct wiring in an apartment in a hidden way. The wiring begins with drawing the main line, for which it is necessary to prepare a VVG wire in advance. The cable diameter must match the operational needs. It is recommended to use a wire with a cross section of 3x2.5.
Internal laying can be done in the floor. In this case, the cables are laid in a protective corrugated sheath, which is routed to electrical appliances. Next, the wire is pulled and placed in the socket box. Then you need to stretch cables with a cross-section of 3x1.5 from switches and lighting fixtures to the distribution boxes. After this, they are connected to the main line using PPE and insulating material.
The above procedure is suitable both for installing electrical wiring in a new building and for organizing a new system to replace the old one. The final step is to check the network using a multitester and connect it to the lighting box. Upon completion of the work, all that remains is to call an electrician to connect the system to the panel.
Electrical wiring design softwarein the apartment
Today there are many programs, the use of which allows you to independently draw up an electrical wiring diagram. Among them are several graphic editors that are most popular among users.
Autocad. One of the most popular programs that allows you to independently draw an electrical diagram of an apartment. At the moment, you can find many versions of this software on the Internet, and there are both paid and free samples. The advantages of this program include a simple and intelligible interface, as well as the ability to use the Russian language.
Visio. This program is great when you need to draw an electrical circuit. Novice electricians most often use it, as it is easy to use and has a user-friendly interface. You can easily find a free version of this software on the Internet. The disadvantage of the program is its limited functionality.
Eagle. Such software is used for drawing single-line electrical wiring drawings. The functionality of this product allows you to work in two modes: manual and automatic. If you wish, you can use the free version of this program. To create an electrical circuit, it is better to purchase a paid version, as it includes more features.
Elf. Convenient software that was developed for people involved in designing electrical wiring in apartments and private houses. The advantages of this system include a built-in database that contains all the necessary elements of the electrical network.
Helpful information! If necessary, you can draw an electrical diagram online. To do this, you need to use the search bar of your browser and go to one of the many sites that provide this service.
Independent calculation and installation of the electrical network is a complex undertaking. However, in this case, you can significantly reduce the final cost of electrical wiring in the apartment. Before starting work, you need to study the basic principles of operation of this system, building regulations, and safety rules. During electrical wiring, it is strictly forbidden to deviate from the work algorithm.
