Is it possible to water raspberries on time. Watering raspberries. Drip irrigation frequency

Mandatory care for raspberry bushes includes not only pruning and treatment against diseases, but also the timely introduction of moisture into the soil. Watering raspberries manually or using a drip irrigation system will saturate the soil with the necessary moisture and have a positive effect on the crop. In this article you will find information on how often to water raspberries and what methods you can use to do this.

The article also describes the basic methods and rules of irrigation, as well as recommendations for arranging drip systems for shrubs with your own hands.

How to water raspberries

How often you water your raspberries depends on the climate zone. This shrub is very sensitive to the level of soil moisture, and if it is insufficient, the yield can be reduced by a factor of three.

Especially strongly it needs moisture during the flowering period, as well as during the formation of ovaries and the ripening of berries. In other words, it is necessary to add additional moisture under the shrub in the summer, especially if there is not enough natural precipitation.

Peculiarities

The main feature of irrigation is that this crop needs a rare, but quite abundant supply of moisture (Figure 1). This is due to the fact that the root system of the shrub is close to the surface, but gradually grows into the deep layers of the soil. However, this process will be possible only if the soil is saturated with moisture.

Figure 1. Features of watering raspberries

In addition, it is desirable to carry out the procedure in the morning or evening and under the root, so that drops of water falling on the leaves do not cause burns.

Rules

Watering the shrub is carried out according to certain rules. Firstly, it is advisable to use rain or settled water for this, since tap water has too high hardness. Secondly, the bushes are fed with moisture directly under the root, so that the water goes directly to the roots, and the leaves and young shoots do not get sunburn.

When planning the procedure, it is necessary to monitor the degree of soil moisture. This culture does not tolerate both drought and excessive moisture. Therefore, watering should be plentiful, but not too frequent.

Ways

There are several basic methods of watering. In small areas, preference is given to the usual root method from a watering can or bucket. But, if the raspberry is large, it makes sense to automate the process using one of the more modern methods (Figure 2).

You can moisten the soil with the help of a sprinkler system, which evenly distributes moisture over the site. But it should be borne in mind that such a system can only be turned on in the morning or in the evening, since drops of water remaining on the leaves can cause sunburn.

Figure 2. The main methods of irrigation: root, sprinkling, furrow and drip

It is also quite common to practice the introduction of moisture along the furrows. This is an effective, but rather laborious method. Along the rows of plants, you need to dig furrows up to 15 cm deep and at a distance of 40 cm from the plants. The furrows are completely filled with water, and when the liquid is absorbed, sprinkled with earth.

Note: Irrigation along the furrows allows you to moisten the soil to a depth of 50 cm, but to preserve moisture, the ground around the bushes must be mulched.

The most modern method of soil moistening is with the help of a drip irrigation system. In this case, moisture is introduced into the soil automatically and in the right quantities, but water resources are used sparingly.

How often to water raspberries

The frequency of watering depends on the region in which you live and weather conditions. Plants do not tolerate drought well, but excessive moisture is harmful to them, therefore, when drawing up a schedule for introducing moisture into the soil, it is necessary to take into account the presence and intensity of natural precipitation.

At the same time, there is a standard irrigation scheme during the season. The first application of moisture is carried out in May, when the active growth of the kidneys begins. During this period, water is brought in at the rate of two buckets per square meter of beds. The second and third are carried out in June, at regular intervals, introducing moisture in the same amount. In July, the procedure is repeated, and the introduction of moisture in August is carried out only in the complete absence of rain.

The last watering of the shrub is carried out in the fall, in October, immediately before preparing for winter.

Do-it-yourself drip irrigation of raspberries

Drip irrigation is one of the most modern irrigation methods, as it allows you to evenly apply moisture to all plants with minimal human intervention. In addition, the use of such a system allows economical use of water resources.

For the successful use of drip irrigation, you need to buy a special system and draw up a plan for its placement on the site (Figure 3).

System selection

The modern market provides a wide selection of drip systems, which differ primarily in cost. When choosing a system, you should focus on the varieties that are planted in your area. If a variety develops successfully and bears fruit in one area for six or more years, it makes sense to buy a more expensive system. But, if the culture grows in one place for only two or three years, you can save money and buy an inexpensive model.

When buying, you must measure the length of the beds in advance in order to select hoses of the appropriate length. In addition, you need to calculate the correct number of droppers: they should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.

Arrangement of drip irrigation

It is not difficult to equip drip irrigation on the site if you know what technology to do it with. First, next to the raspberries, you need to put a dark barrel or other tank in which water will be stored. It is necessary to install the container at a height of one and a half to two meters from the ground level so that water flows into the hoses in a natural way.

Figure 3. Installation of a drip irrigation system

Secondly, you need to install a cleaning filter on the barrel if you plan to use rain or tap water. After that, hoses and droppers are laid out around the site, and plugs are installed at the ends of the pipes. If you plan to fully automate the system, you must additionally buy a control sensor and install it on a barrel of water.

Rules

Drip irrigation is popular because of its simplicity. In order for all plants to receive a sufficient amount of moisture, you just need to turn on the system, and the liquid will automatically begin to flow through the hoses to the droppers, and from there directly to the roots of the plant.

Note: The advantage of drip irrigation is that it can be used at any time of the day. Water flows directly to the roots and the risk of leaf scorch is minimal.

In addition, using a drip irrigation system, you can not only moisten the soil, but also apply liquid top dressing. It is enough to pour the right amount of fertilizer into the tank with water, and they will be evenly distributed among the plants by the system.

Watering raspberries with drip irrigation: video

Drip irrigation is considered the most modern way of introducing moisture. But, if you do not have experience in its arrangement and use, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video, which shows in detail the features of the installation and operation of drip irrigation in raspberries.

Drip irrigation of remontant raspberries

Remontant varieties differ from the usual ones in more plentiful and long-term fruiting. At the same time, the rules for caring for shrubs remain standard and include watering, fertilizing, loosening and pruning.

Since it is the level of soil moisture that plays a decisive role in obtaining a rich harvest, let us dwell in more detail on the features of watering remontant varieties using a drip irrigation system (Figure 4).

Peculiarities

The main feature of growing remontant varieties is regular watering. Water must be applied abundantly so that the soil is moistened 30-40 cm deep.

Note: The frequency of application of moisture depends on weather conditions. During a drought, the soil is moistened daily, and in the presence of natural precipitation, it is enough to carry out the procedure once a week.

It is important to pay increased attention to soil moisture during flowering and fruit ripening. When the crop is harvested, the soil should dry out, but if the autumn is dry, additional winter watering must be carried out before sheltering the shrubs for the winter.

Rules

The rules for watering remontant varieties are quite simple. The main thing is to provide the plants with a constant moderate soil moisture. For a good harvest, you need to ensure that the soil is constantly moist, but not wet.

To do this, you must follow these rules:

In the presence of natural rainfall, watering once a week is sufficient;
If the weather is dry, water is added daily;
During watering, you need to ensure that the soil is moistened to a depth of 30-40 cm.

Figure 4. Features of watering remontant raspberries

It is important to ensure that moisture does not linger at the roots, as this can cause a decrease in yield and even death of the shrub. That is why, when irrigating, preference should be given to drip irrigation, with which you can ensure a constant influx of moisture without waterlogging.

Watering raspberries in summer

In summer, the main crop care includes regular and fairly plentiful watering. This is due to the fact that it is during the period of flowering, the formation of ovaries and the ripening of fruits that the shrub needs moisture most of all.

It should be borne in mind that excessive soil moisture brings the same harm as the complete absence of water. Therefore, you need to ensure that the soil is moist, but not wet.

Peculiarities

The main feature of summer watering is that its frequency is adjusted depending on weather conditions. For example, during a drought, the bushes are fed with moisture daily, but if it rains periodically, it will be enough to add two buckets of water per square meter of beds once a week.

It is also important to consider that leaves and young shoots can easily get sunburned. For this reason, it is better to water the shrub in the morning or in the evening, when the sun is not too active.

Rules

There are certain rules for summer watering. Firstly, in small areas, you can limit yourself to ordinary root watering from a bucket or watering can. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that water flows directly to the roots, and does not fall on the leaves or shoots.

Secondly, for large plantings, it is necessary to equip automated watering. This can be done using drip irrigation systems or sprinklers. Drip systems can be used at any time, as this system delivers water directly to the roots without affecting the leaves. Sprinklers can only be turned on in the morning or evening, or in cloudy weather, so that drops of water remaining on the leaves do not cause sunburn.

How many times should raspberries be watered in summer

The traditional scheme for watering raspberries in summer involves the introduction of moisture 7 times per season and precisely during those periods when plants need moisture most of all.

The first is carried out in May, when the buds have already blossomed and the shoots have begun to grow actively. In June and July, there are two introductions of moisture, which are carried out at regular intervals. In August, the procedure is carried out as needed, focusing on weather conditions. During a drought, the frequency of watering is increased, and in the presence of rain, it is reduced.

Note: Regardless of the time of watering, at a time you need to bring two buckets of water per square meter of beds. So you will be sure that the soil is sufficiently moistened.

It is not necessary to water the shrub in autumn, but if there is no rain or the soil is not moistened enough, additional moisture should be applied in October. This is the so-called winter watering, which allows plants to accumulate a sufficient amount of nutrients and moisture before the onset of cold weather.

How to water raspberries with a solution of urea in the spring

A solution of urea, or urea, is one of the most important fertilizers for a plant. This substance is high in nitrogen, so it is applied mainly in the fall to stimulate the awakening of the kidneys and the growth of young shoots.

Figure 5. Use of urea solution for irrigation

Carbamide is produced in granules, and diluted in water before use (Figure 5). The dosage depends on the type of culture. For example, for spring top dressing, it is necessary to dissolve 15-20 grams of the substance in a bucket of water and irrigate. This amount will be enough for a square meter of raspberries.

In addition to spring, urea can also be used in summer. Watering with this solution is carried out a week after the start of flowering and the procedure is repeated after about a month.

You will find more information about the features of watering raspberries in the video.

Caring for raspberries - a completely unpretentious crop - consists in pruning, watering, feeding and protection from pests. All these issues will be covered in detail in our article. Here the reader will find tips for caring for raspberries in the spring, summer and autumn months.

How to care for raspberries in spring

Raspberry care in the spring begins immediately after the snow cover melts. Having waited for the moment when the air temperature begins to consistently exceed 5 degrees Celsius (in central Russia this happens in the first ten days of April), they begin a thorough revision of the landings.

The purpose of the revision is to identify the consequences of wintering and all the shortcomings of autumn pruning. If the shoots that gave the harvest were not cut in the fall due to the onset of early frosts or premature snowfall, this should be done right now. Fruiting vines are cut at the root, leaving no stumps. After that, young shoots are examined, cutting off frost-bitten areas on them.

In plants that did not bind and did not bend down to the ground in autumn, the very tops most often freeze, therefore only the dead areas are removed (up to the first living bud). The rest of the crimson vine, having gained strength, will be ready to bear fruit.

Having completed the revision and eliminated all old and damaged shoots, they immediately begin to clean the raspberries from old grass and last year's leaves with their obligatory burning. This is done for two reasons:

Old foliage can be affected by fungal, bacterial or viral, so it is not suitable for laying in a compost pit.
In the litter of last year's grass and leaves, the main raspberry pests overwinter, crawling out of the shelter with the onset of the very first warm days, so the main task of the gardener is not to miss the favorable moment for their destruction.

The vines, tied in the fall and bent to the ground for the winter, should be released immediately, otherwise sudden frosts can destroy the swelling buds (being near the ground, they wake up to life a little earlier than those that are on the run).

When performing the very first spring work in the raspberry forest, it is very important not to trample the soil in it. Experienced gardeners avoid this by using light board paths.

Pruning and garter

Spring pruning of raspberries consists of two stages.

During the first stage, weakened, severely damaged and frost-bitten shoots are removed, as well as plantings are thinned out (too dense thickets reduce the yield of raspberries). If raspberries are grown in a tape way, the optimal planting density is 25 vines per linear meter; in bush cultivation, no more than 12 shoots are left. In thinned plantings, the shoots receive a sufficient amount of sunlight and nutrients. Lianas, the stems of which are damaged by the larvae of the raspberry stem gall midge, are subject to priority removal. On bare shoots that have not yet acquired foliage, the habitats of these pests can be found without the slightest difficulty: they look like swellings located at the bottom of the stems.
The second stage of pruning occurs at the time of bud break. The tops of all vines are cut to the first bud that has survived the winter well: this is indicated by its normal color and size, which is no different from the rest of the buds. All tops are subject to pruning, not even frostbite: this stimulates the formation and fruiting of additional shoots.

Properly performed spring pruning of raspberries contributes to a bountiful harvest and increases the duration of fruiting.

An equally important point is the correct garter of raspberry vines. This is especially true for varieties that bend under the weight of their own fruits. The most popular type of supports are trellises. The posts for the supports are hammered along the edges and in the middle of each row, and a wire is pulled between them (the height of the upper crossbar is 100-120 cm, the height of the lower one is 60-80 cm). Each vine is not too tightly tied to the crossbars in two places, using hemp twine or strips of soft cloth for this. A properly tied bush should take a vertical position and not fall over.

If stakes are used as supports, then, having driven them between plants, half of the shoots from two neighboring bushes are tied to them (each stem is tied separately). This way of tying, which does not shade the plants, at the same time facilitates the collection of fruits.

Fertilizer, top dressing in spring

Caring for raspberries in the spring involves the mandatory introduction of additional dressings. This is especially true for plants planted in depleted soil. Experienced gardeners produce spring dressing of raspberries according to the following scheme:

The first top dressing - nitrogen fertilizers - is applied to the just thawed and not yet loosened soil, barely freed from snow (for each square meter - 15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea). To neutralize the acidifying effect of ammonium nitrate (raspberries do not like acidic soils), along with its introduction, it is recommended to pour a glass of wood ash under each vine. Instead of ammonium nitrate, potassium nitrate can be added: having nitrogen in its composition, it does not contribute to soil acidification. Fertilization should be preceded by abundant watering. Complex top dressing can be prepared independently by mixing one part of potassium and ammonium nitrate with two parts of superphosphate. To prepare a working solution, 100 g of the prepared mixture is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
After loosening the substrate, it is mulched with organic fertilizers: straw manure, humus or peat compost.
In May, you can feed raspberries (500 g of manure per 10 liters of water). For processing 1 sq. meter of soil requires 5 liters of solution.

Gardeners who prefer to feed raspberries exclusively with organic matter use instead of mineral fertilizers:

Fresh mullein, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.
Litter of rabbits and goats (solution formula 1:10) or poultry (one part to 20 parts of water).
Infusion of comfrey and nettle. 1 kg of freshly picked greens of these herbs is poured with a bucket of cold water and infused, stirring daily, for a week. 1 liter of the finished infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and raspberries are fed (2 liters of product are needed to feed one bush).

Spring tillage methods

Caring for raspberries after winter, gardeners should avoid digging the soil even between rows, for fear of damaging the roots, the depth of which does not exceed thirty centimeters. Digging between rows is permissible only in the autumn.

In spring, the soil in the raspberries is mulched, that is, they are covered with a thick (up to 15 cm) layer of mulch. As a mulching material, you can use the remains of cereal crops, humus, rotted straw or compost. The mulching process should be preceded by a procedure of deep (up to ten centimeters) loosening and abundant watering.

Mulching prevents the depletion of the substrate, contributes to the long-term preservation of moisture under the bushes and the supply of the root system with a rich complex of nutrients. The method of mulching is contraindicated only in relation to very wet soils: they just need to be loosened and fertilized.

The raspberry root system tends to grow, capturing large areas. To prevent this process, it is necessary to make a raspberry fence. To do this, it is enough to dig a strip of galvanized iron or tin around its entire perimeter (the width of the strip must be at least twenty centimeters). Thanks to this barrier, the raspberry tree will remain in the place provided to it.

Pest control

Early spring is the most favorable time for the prevention of the attack of the main pests of raspberries: raspberry beetle, gall midge, raspberry weevil and stem fly. Timely removal of dry branches and a layer of fallen leaves from the raspberry tree (with their obligatory burning), in which these pests overwinter, partially solves this problem.

The second item in the control of raspberry pests is the spraying of the shoots, which is carried out before the opening of the kidneys.

A destructive effect on all pests is sprayed with a fungicide - Bordeaux liquid.
To get rid of the raspberry beetle at the time of early spring (shortly after the snow melts), raspberry shoots and the soil under it are generously sprayed with a solution of nitrafen (200 ml of the drug per bucket of water). Excellent results are obtained by double treatment of the bushes with solutions of Agravertin and Fitoverm.
A solution of Fufanon (15 ml per bucket of water) or Actellik (in the same dosage) will help to cope with the larvae of the raspberry gall midge.
To make it difficult for overwintered stalk flies to leave their shelters in early spring, tree circles are covered with a thick layer of mulching material. In the first decade of May, raspberry shoots are treated with solutions of agravertin, actellik or fitoverm.

Features of summer care

Care for planting raspberries in the summer consists of:

implementation of regular watering;
weeding weeds:
loosening the row spacing (if the tree trunks are sprinkled with mulch) or the entire raspberry bush (in the absence of mulching material);
monitoring the condition of the foliage (all yellowed and drying leaves should be immediately removed and burned);
timely removal of all shoots that appear during the summer months (for seedlings, only the required number of young plants that appear at the very end of the summer season are left for seedlings).

In summer, raspberries should be treated twice with fungicide solutions. One spraying should precede the flowering process of the bushes, and the other should be done immediately after its completion.

How to water

Proper organization and method of irrigation can affect the yield of raspberry vines. The irrigation schedule depends on the air temperature, as well as on the intensity and frequency of precipitation. Most of all, raspberries need water during the period when there is mass flowering, setting and ripening of berries. In dry years, the yield of raspberries that lack moisture can be reduced by a factor of three.

In the last month of summer and early autumn, raspberries have enough moisture from natural precipitation. If the summer and autumn were dry, gardeners are required to carry out water-charging winter watering.

The best option for watering raspberries (in terms of safety in terms of soil erosion and in terms of water savings) in the summer is drip irrigation. Late autumn (moisture charging) irrigation is carried out by sprinkling and irrigation furrows. Both methods of water-charging irrigation should be used with extreme caution.

Irrigation, which can protect plants from frost, at the same time can lead to the development of diseases, especially dangerous for ripening berries. High humidity not only worsens the condition of the root system, but also has an extremely negative effect on the quality of fruits, reduces immunity to diseases, prevents plants from hardening in the pre-winter period, and provokes the process of secondary growth.

The specifics of autumn care

In the autumn, after the last crop has been harvested, another - final - treatment of raspberries from pests preparing for wintering is carried out. Autumn raspberry care activities are not among the complex, time-consuming procedures.

The beginning of leaf fall is a signal that it is time to start pruning weakened shoots and fruiting bushes. Rejected stems are cut at the root; at the same time, far-grown young shoots are dug out.

Having removed the mulching material, it is either dug up or replaced with a fresh one, and the aisles are dug up to a depth not exceeding fifteen centimeters. The digging procedure is preceded by the application of potash and phosphate fertilizers (at the rate of 8 g per 1 sq. meter). It is very useful to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers: in the fall of one year, fertilize with organic matter, and the next year with mineral fertilizers. If the gardener decided to use both of them at the same time, they should be applied in half the amount.

Special attention is required to prepare the raspberries for the winter. Raspberries are not afraid of spring frosts: late flowering saves the future crop from death, but winter frosts can cause some shoots to freeze. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to properly prepare the plants for wintering. At the end of September or at the beginning of October, when the raspberry vines still retain their flexibility, they are bent to the ground so that after the snow cover is established, they are completely covered with snow that can protect them from freezing.

This is done by one of two methods: either bending to each other and tying adjacent shoots, or laying all the vines in one direction, tying the top of one bush to the base of another. All plants in each row are bent in a similar way.

About the features of caring for raspberries of different varieties

Thanks to breeders in the world, there are dozens of different varieties of raspberries that differ in ripening time, yield, size and color of fruits. There are varieties that continuously bear fruit throughout the growing season.

All these differences affect the specific care of different varieties of raspberries.

Cumberland Black Raspberry, characterized by the power of tall bushes with thick shoots, produces large (weighing 2 g), shiny and sweet berries, the taste of which resembles blackberries. At high humidity, this variety is prone to anthracnose disease, therefore, extreme caution should be exercised when watering (if possible, it is advisable to organize drip irrigation in raspberries). of this variety in the same place allotted to him can be for eight years. For propagation, cuttings, seeds and horizontal cuttings are used.
Standard (tree-like) raspberry of the Tarusa variety, often referred to as the crimson tree and reaching two meters in height, can be grown without supports. The berries of this variety, which have a bright red color, great taste and intoxicating aroma, can reach 7 cm in length and weigh 15 g. To obtain a “tree” with a branched crown, pinch the top of a young seedling. The culture loves light, abundant and frequent watering, loose soils with a large amount of trace elements and minerals, fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers, and regular weeding. Seedlings of the first year of vegetation before wintering must be insulated by covering the soil under it with a thick layer of mulch. The removal of fruiting branches is carried out at the end of July. The formation of bushes is carried out at the end of September: the top is cut off from the plant and all weakened shoots are removed, leaving no more than 6 strong stems. The raspberry tree often suffers from pests and diseases, so it is necessary to constantly deal with the prevention of their appearance.
Remontant raspberry varieties Hercules, which gives two crops during the season, is distinguished by a huge (weighing up to 15 g) size of ruby red berries with a pleasant sour-sweet taste. Grow it in sunny areas. Powerful bushes that require good lighting and ventilation are planted at intervals of 80 cm and with a 1.5-meter spacing between rows. The variety requires regular watering and top dressing, soil mulching. After collecting the last berries, the aerial part of the shoots is cut off at the root: this is a guarantee of an excellent harvest for the next season.

In order for raspberries to consistently bear fruit and be strewn with tasty and large berries, it is necessary to fertilize them on time and properly. The berry shrub needs good, fertile soil, which depletes over time. Therefore, the introduction of nutrients into the soil under the raspberry is not an idle question.

How to determine which elements are missing raspberries

The fact that feeding raspberries has become an urgent need can be seen from the appearance of the plant. You should carefully examine the leaves and shoots, pay attention to the general condition of the shrub, and even an inexperienced gardener will become clear how to fertilize raspberries.

Signs by which you can determine the excess or deficiency of a particular nutrient are as follows:

thin shoots and small leaves indicate a lack of phosphorus;
green veins on a yellowed leaf indicate a lack of iron;
weak leaf growth and their color change to yellow signal a lack of magnesium;
small and yellow leaves that have stopped growing show by their appearance that there is not enough nitrogen;
brown leaves that change color from the edges indicate a lack of potassium;
the rapid growth of green mass and shedding of berries demonstrate an excess of nitrogen.

Knowing which ones are needed, it is easier to balance nutrition and pick up those elements that the plant needs so much. During the growing season, raspberries are fed several times, because during growth, during fruiting, in preparation for winter rest, the shrub needs different nutrients.

The introduction of batteries during landing

The first question of an inexperienced gardener: what kind of fertilizer to apply under raspberries when planting? A young bush must receive the necessary amount of nutrients in order to better adapt and move into growth. After choosing a site for raspberries during the autumn digging, the following top dressing is applied to poor soils per 1 m 2:

10-15 kg of organic components;
20-30 g of potassium compounds;
30-45 gr of phosphorus compounds.

On "fatty" soils, this ratio will be slightly less. What fertilizer for raspberries is applied to the planting pit? If the soils are sod-podzolic, then 8-10 kg of humus or compost, 150-200 g of superphosphate and 70-80 g of potassium sulfate are added to a previously prepared pit. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate can be replaced with 600 grams of wood ash.

Fertilizing raspberries with ash is much more useful, since it contains a whole complex of macro- and microelements. Chemical components are mixed with fertile soil so as not to burn the roots due to their high concentration. Around the planted bush, the surface is mulched with loose organic matter: tree bark, peat, straw, sawdust.

Advice! Raspberries grow on soils with high acidity, but prefer neutral or slightly acidic soils, so liming should be done a year before planting raspberries.

It is also necessary to reduce acidity during the period of plant growth.

Spring top dressing

In the spring, during the pruning and garter of raspberries, they dig up the soil and start feeding the bushes. Raspberry spring fertilizer is an important point, because it needs to gain strength for subsequent growth and fruiting. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are the most necessary for raspberries, since with powerful, well-leafed shoots there is hope for a harvest.

In the spring, top dressing is applied to the raspberry soil:

Nitrogen, which is "responsible" for the growth of green mass. It is found in urea, chicken manure, slurry. Fertilizer diluted in certain proportions (one of the proposed ones) is poured into grooves made along the bushes at a distance of 30-50 cm.
Humus, necessary not only for nutrition, but also to improve the soil structure. It is evenly scattered between the bushes, slightly digging and mixing with the ground. You can leave the humus on the surface and mix with peat: it will serve as a mulch material.
Decomposed compost (if there is no humus), which includes bird droppings, foliage, manure, peat, weeds. Compost is prepared in advance and during processing it is saturated with a mass of useful components. It is made at the rate of 10 kg / m 2.
Complex fertilizer for raspberries: take 60 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium salt (can be replaced with wood ash) and 30 g of ammonium nitrate per bucket of water. They are applied to the soil under the bushes in one or two doses.
Peat to improve the structure of the soil, since the percentage of nutrients available to the plant in it is small.
Wood ash in diluted or dry form as a mineral fertilizer for raspberries, rich in nutrients.

Advice! If the bush is weak and does not grow well, then slurry, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 4, serves as a good top dressing. For 4-5 bushes, 1 bucket of solution is enough.

Nutrition during the fruiting period

Feeding raspberries during flowering and fruiting is important, since the yield of fragrant and tasty berries depends on the content of nutrients in the soil. At this time, the berry bush needs a lot of strength to bring a bountiful harvest. How to fertilize raspberries during this period?

If by the beginning of summer the shrubs look weak and not leafy enough, then it is worth using fertilizer for raspberries in the form of chicken manure. To do this, take 1 part of the litter to 12 parts of water, insist for several days and water each bush with this solution. A healthy look to the shrub will be given by manure in the form of top dressing (instead of chicken manure), which is bred 1: 5. Consumption for 5 bushes is 10 liters.

A complex composition is introduced into the grooves between the rows: 1 tbsp of superphosphate, 1 tbsp of wood ash, 3-4 tbsp each. l of urea and potash fertilizers per 10 l of water. Such top dressing helps to saturate the soil with the necessary nutrients, which is important during the formation of berries.

Attention! Nitrogen fertilizers have the ability to acidify the soil, so after applying them, you need to pour a glass of ash under each bush.

After fruiting, nitrogen cannot be applied, as it contributes to the growth of green mass, and in autumn this is not necessary.

In early July, it is useful to support the plant with the following nutritious "cocktail": 2-3 tbsp. l fertilizer "Ideal" with 2 tbsp. l nitrophoska, diluted in 10 liters of water. Enough 6-8 liters per 1 running meter. This is a useful top dressing for raspberries during the fruiting period, this composition makes it possible for both growth and ripening of berries.

How to feed raspberries in August, when fruiting is coming to an end? During this period, a potassium solution is usually used, for the preparation of which 2 tbsp. l of potassium sulfate is diluted in 10 l of water. Consumption is 6-8 liters per linear meter. Before making the solution, the soil is sprinkled with wood ash 1 st per 1 m 2.

Warning! It is undesirable to use potassium chloride as a top dressing.

Chlorine is not a useful component for the berry bush and causes a disease such as chlorosis. In case of emergency, potassium chloride is applied in the fall, then by spring the chlorine is washed out of the soil.

Foliar top dressing

For abundant fruiting, foliar feeding of raspberries is important. This is spraying with a spray gun of the leaf part, which is carried out in the evening, in warm, calm and clear weather. It does not make sense to carry out such treatment before the rain, since the rain will wash away all the batteries.

Raspberry foliar nutrition provides the following benefits:

good nutrition in bad weather conditions;
yield growth up to 15-20%;
earlier ripening of berries;
rich taste;
resistance to pests and diseases.

Raspberry fertilizer "Kristalon" has the listed qualities and is used for foliar top dressing. During the growing season, "Special Crystal" is used with an optimal set of microelements. Use 30 g per 10 liters of water. 2-3 weeks before the removal of the berries, the ground part of the bush is re-treated with “Brown Crystal”: 20 g of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water.

Important! Leaf processing can be planned, which is carried out 4-6 days after root feeding, emergency - with a shortage of a certain nutrient element and sporadic, when weather conditions are unfavorable for crop ripening.

Top dressing in the autumn

Feeding raspberries is also important in the autumn, as the plants are depleted. During the summer, the bushes of the berry crop use almost the entire supply of nutrients, and for the growth of young shoots in the spring, a new portion of top dressing from nutrients is needed. urea, and in the fall, organic matter, phosphate and potash fertilizers are applied for digging.

Organic matter is added to the soil layer for 2-3 years after planting, since all the necessary nutrients were added during planting. During this period, mineral components are used. Then, complex fertilizers for raspberries are prepared annually.

For 1 m 2 landings use:

2-3 kg of organic matter in the form of humus or semi-rotted manure;
4 tbsp. l superphosphate;
2 tbsp. l potassium and nitrogen components;
50 gr of a special fruit and berry mixture of fertilizers;
1 tbsp garden mix

The resulting top dressing is applied to the row-spacing, followed by incorporation into the soil. From above, the earth is covered with a layer of mulch. It retains moisture, creates conditions for the development of soil microflora, protects the root system from freezing in cold winters.

Advice! It is useful to bring unrotted manure under the roots of raspberries in the fall.

In winter, it will warm the roots, and in the spring it will “turn” into humus, which will give the plant fresh nutrients.

Fertilizer that raspberries love is wood ash. It is an ideal top dressing at any time of the year. At the end of summer, it must be scattered in the aisles, where the root system of the fruit shrub is located. The plant will make a supply of potassium for the next season in order to get a good harvest and sweet berries.

Feeding raspberries in the fall is carried out at the expense of green manure. They are planted in the second half of summer between rows of raspberry bushes, and during the preparation of raspberries for winter, they are planted in the soil, where the green mass rots during winter and spring. White mustard, clover, vetch are suitable for such plantings.

What fertilizers do raspberries need in autumn? Those that are able to support it in the off-season, help to survive the winter and begin active growth in the spring.

Comment! Feeding raspberries with folk remedies includes various organic mixtures: infusions of bird droppings, mullein, weeds, ash and other equally useful natural ingredients.

When constructing a scheme for feeding raspberries, one should take into account the age, development of the bush and its yield. If the berry culture is weak and poorly developed, then the feeding scheme should be corrected. If the bush is strong, strong, and the yield is 1-1.2 kg per bush, then the gardener knows how to feed the raspberries and his care is bearing fruit.

How to properly water raspberries

Raspberry is an unpretentious plant in care, which is able to please the gardener with a generous harvest. But at the same time, there are several rules that should be strictly observed in such a matter as watering raspberries, namely:

Raspberry bushes are rarely watered when planting, after planting, but plentifully in order to achieve the full development of the root system.
From the end of May to the beginning of June, the raspberry root system grows especially intensively, therefore, during this period of time, the amount of watering should be increased.
If the weather is hot in the summer, the plant begins to suffer from increased dryness of the air, so moisture evaporates from the raspberry bush in large volumes. In this case, it is necessary to regularly conduct abundant moisture to a depth of 30 cm, with the obligatory loosening of the soil.
During the three hot summer months, at least seven plentiful waterings should be performed.

raspberries are watered in the spring for the first time at the end of May, 3 liters of water for each bush;
the next two waterings are carried out in the middle and at the end of June, 6 liters of water for each bush;
then a similar June irrigation scheme is duplicated in July;
and with the onset of August, one watering is performed up to 15 numbers.

It is worth noting that for August, the above system will be relevant only if there is no rain during this period.

Raspberry bushes do not require regular watering, this procedure is necessary only during the fruiting period and at the time of intensive growth of foliage, but at the same time, many experienced gardeners insist that the seventh watering in October is necessary.

In general, the above scheme is a clear example of how to properly water raspberries. But in practice, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the bush. If the leaves are drooping, then you need to moisten the soil.

It is this principle that should form the basis for caring for this amazing berry and answer the question of many novice gardeners, watering raspberries how often.

What are the methods of watering raspberries

At the moment, there are three effective ways to water the raspberry bush, namely:

drip irrigation of raspberries, one of the most gentle for the root of the plant;
trench irrigation, for this you will need to make grooves about 15 cm deep next to the bushes. Then fill them with water and wait until it is completely absorbed, and then fill in the previously made grooves;
irrigating raspberries with a hose.

When it is very hot outside, it is necessary to use the first or second method, which helps to significantly reduce water consumption and minimize the appearance of various defects. In this case, it is very important to perform the correct calculation of water. The fact is that, as described above, the soil should be moistened to a depth of no more than 30 cm.

Ice water is the biggest enemy for many plants, it is for this reason that beginner gardeners have a question whether it is possible to apply cold jets of water to raspberries. In this case, such an undertaking can turn out very negatively for the raspberry bush.

It is better in the hot months to water, before you start watering, heat the water in the sun, and then water the plant, this approach will speed up its absorption and will not damage the root system of the bush.

Conclusion

Raspberries are a very tasty and healthy berry, which is very easy to grow with your own hands. The main thing is to properly water and care for this plant, which will give a rich harvest.