Today, in private gardens, you can see many huge adult coniferous trees that rise above the houses, casting a shadow on all nearby areas. At the same time, most conifers respond positively to shaping - pruning, which allows you to keep the tree in check without harm to its health and appearance. If you have decided to plant a coniferous tree in a small garden that reaches the height of a large-sized tree, then you must immediately start “educating” the seedling, and not wait until the forest giant begins to annoy all the neighbors.
Content:In the forests of the middle zone, one species of pine most often lives - Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), and the only type of spruce - Norway spruce, or European (Picea abies) . Spruce and pine have a different growth pattern, so the approach to them will be slightly different.
spruce formation
The older and taller the spruce becomes, the more its growth rate accelerates. In a young tree, growth can be as little as five centimeters per year, while an adult spruce will annually drive growth up to one meter long.
In forty years, an ordinary forest spruce will reach the height of a three-story house, but a formed tree can remain a small and pretty cone for decades. Therefore, it is important to start regular tree trimming from a very young age.
Based on the fact that the natural form of spruce is a regular cone, the biology of this tree contains the most rapid growth of the central shoot-leader - the “crown”. If you remove the leader, this will cause a whole bunch of young branches to grow in place of the remote branch, and the crown will become wider. Nevertheless, the Christmas tree will not give up trying to maintain its usual pyramidal shape and will regularly put forward a new leader from among the young shoots.
Therefore, even with regular pruning, you should not be afraid that the spruce will cease to look like a typical conical Christmas tree. The formation will affect the appearance of the tree only on the positive side - the crown will become thicker and fluffier, the branches are shorter, and growth is not so intense.
To further reduce the desire of the Christmas tree to grow in height, you can independently choose a weakly growing lateral branch for the role of leader. To do this, a suitable branch is fixed in a vertical position with a wire or tied to a support. Thus, the growth of the tree in height will not be as fast.
When and how to prune spruce?
Partial pinching of the main crown can be done even in autumn and early spring. To do this, they find the largest bud on the spruce paw, which is responsible for the growth of the branch in length, and carefully break it out or cut it with a pruner. This simple method will help prevent the tree from growing too wide, while the spruce legs themselves become fluffier due to increased branching from the lateral buds.
A more thorough formation is carried out in late May or early June (depending on weather conditions). In this case, the entire young growth is pinched or cut off (it is easy to distinguish it by soft needles and a lighter color), which is cut off on average by 1/3 or 2/3.
To keep the Christmas tree in shape, such a haircut is carried out annually once a season. While the seedling is small, it is better to do the procedure manually, and later it is more convenient to cut it with garden shears.
In some years, spruces have to be cut several times a season, then an additional haircut is carried out at the end of summer. At the same time, it is important not to delay the timing of the haircut, and not to prune too late so that the cuts have time to drag on before the onset of winter.
Of course, in nurseries you can find dwarf spruce varieties that do not require pruning and form a beautiful fluffy crown themselves ( Wills Zwerg, "Konika" and others). But nevertheless, species spruce is most adapted to the local climate, it is highly resistant to adverse conditions, such as severe frosts and sunburn in early spring. In addition, on a “wild” Christmas tree, you can hone your curly haircut skills without fear, because its cost in the nursery is not comparable to the price of a varietal specimen.
In addition to the classic pyramidal shape, with the help of garden shears, spruce can be turned into a ball on a long stem, and into a multi-tiered pyramid, and into a dense massive column.
Spruce blue (prickly)(Picea pungens) also lends itself well to shearing, which is done at the same time and according to the same principles as pruning Norway spruce.
It is still too early to cut the spruce on the left, the shoots have just come out of the buds. On the right, the young legs are fully unfolded, can be cut off. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya Making a spruce hedge
From spruce, you can even create a durable living fence. Such a fence will always look solid and solemn, protect the site from the wind and prying eyes.
Four-year-old seedlings are suitable for planting a hedge from common spruce, which are planted at a distance of 50 centimeters to 1 meter. In the year of planting, the seedlings are allowed to take root in a new place, so the formation of the hedge begins from the second year. The entire young growth of spruces is removed by approximately 1/3, in the future, as growth accelerates, 2/3 of the length of young shoots can be cut.
A similar procedure is carried out annually in June-July, and, if necessary, again at the end of summer. When the seedlings reach the desired height, they cut off the central shoot, periodically controlling the height of the hedge. To make the top of the live fence even, it is advisable to stretch the cord, which will allow you to adhere to the specified height during trimming. For ease of cutting, it is recommended not to allow spruce to grow to a height above 1.5 meters.
Usually a spruce fence is made in a rectangular shape like a real wall. However, despite the relative shade tolerance of this breed, it is desirable to cut the hedge in the form of a cone, so that the upper part of the plants does not interfere with the light enough to fall on the lower branches, in order to avoid falling off the needles.
A spruce hedge does not grow quickly, and the first results of the work can be seen at least 5-10 years later (depending on the age of the seedlings). In general, a spruce fence is reliable and unpretentious, but the formation process cannot be stopped for even a single year, otherwise nature will quickly take its toll, turning a neat fence into a real spruce forest.
Without pruning, over time, a small pine tree near a country house became a huge pine tree above a small house. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya Pine tree formation
Pine is one of the most intensively growing coniferous trees, and an adult has an increase of more than one meter per year. An adult Scots pine tree at maturity reaches a height of 40 meters or more.
With age, the pine crown becomes more and more sparse, the lower branches fall off from lack of light, and the once fluffy "herringbone" more and more takes on the appearance of a ship's pine towering above the garden. However, even such a massive tree can be tamed if you start timely pruning.
When and how to prune pine?
During the growth period in spring (in May), characteristic young growths appear on the branches of the pine - the so-called "candles". After a while, such "candles" begin to lengthen, and young needles gradually develop on them. It is during this period that pinching should be carried out, shortening the growth by half or more of the length of the candle.
At the same time, try not to damage young needles, as they last for several years, and turn yellow from damage and spoil the appearance of the tree. In this regard, the best way to prune a young pine is to pinch the buds by hand. In the next season, a bunch of young shoots is formed in place of the removed apical bud, with which it is necessary to repeat a similar operation.
Thus, every year the tree will branch more and more, and its crown will become truly fluffy and “stuffed”. To contain the leader shoot in pine, an operation similar to the above described method for spruce is carried out. That is, they independently assign a lateral weak-growing shoot to the role of the crown, giving it a vertical direction with the help of a tire.
Best of all, pine gives new buds of renewal on fresh growth in those places where there are young needles. Therefore, it is very important not to miss the pruning time, which lasts until the end of May. Otherwise, pruning will not lead to the formation of new branches.
Pine candles are not yet grown enough for pruning. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya 
Pine shoots with the beginnings of needles, it's time to cut. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya When and how to prune juniper?
Sometimes in the gardens you can also meet species common juniper (Juniperus communis), which can also reach a decent height, unlike its varietal counterparts (up to 10 meters).
Some other tall junipers, such as numerous varieties rocky juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) may also need shaping pruning. This tree species tolerates formative pruning very easily, however, it is important to take into account some features here.
To help junipers form a denser and narrower crown, their growth in width should be slightly limited. For these purposes, hedge shears or pruners are ideal. This conifer responds to pruning with a burst of growth. Subsequently, new shoots fill in possible voids, and the tree looks slimmer and fluffier.
The most suitable time for cutting junipers is the period when junipers do not have active growth: in autumn - from September to October, or in spring - from April to May. But during the period of active growth of shoots - June and July - it is better not to touch the trees, since at this time the maximum sap flow occurs, as a result of which pruning can lead to excessive release of juice from the cuts and weakening of the plants.
When planning juniper pruning, it is important to consider weather conditions. So, in extreme heat, it is also better not to cut these trees, because the high temperature will contribute to the rapid evaporation of juices, which can cause browning of the tips and further death of the cut shoots. At low temperatures, combined with high humidity, cut wounds do not heal well and become a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria and sometimes harmful insects.
Similar rules will be valid not only for junipers, but also for other conifers with flat needles - thuja, yew, cypress, etc.
Unlike other types of juniper, juniper Cossack (Juniperus sabina) is a poisonous plant. When cutting bushes of this species, care must be taken, be sure to use personal protective equipment that does not allow contact with poisonous juice. Essential oils of Cossack juniper, when in contact with the skin, lead to burns.
Fir is characterized by the formation of a bald crown, which overgrows over time. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya fir pruning
Species firs (Korean, Vicha, balsam, monochrome, etc.) are fairly tall trees. Adults reach 10 meters and above. Therefore, they will also require regular pruning to contain growth.
According to the nature of growth, fir differs from spruce mainly in that it often puts forward a long, bald crown, and many gardeners often have a desire to pinch the “stick” to make the tree fluffier.
But, if the fir has not yet reached the height you have planned, you should not do this, because the nature of this breed is such that over time, the fir fills the void at the crown on its own, and a new fluffy growth gradually grows from the buds.
Pinching the leader shoot will lead to the formation of many new tops, and the tree will temporarily lose its classic conical shape. To restrain the growth of fir in height, it is better to carry out the same operation that is recommended for spruce and pine (described above).
As for pinching the side branches, this procedure is carried out in the fall or in the spring before bud break. To do this, the largest bud is broken out on the shoots, which will help to restrain the growth of the fir in breadth.
However, it is important to consider here that, unlike most types of spruces, in which pruning causes the awakening of a large number of dormant buds, and, consequently, increased branching, fir reacts to a haircut in a slightly different way. Pruning this breed does not allow you to get a stuffed crown of increased fluffiness, since even after pinching the fir will branch minimally.
Nevertheless, it is quite possible to form a more compact tree due to regular haircuts. If the tree is too large, then it can simply be cut with hedge shears, in the same way as spruce is sheared, that is, when the young legs have fully blossomed, 1/3 of the length of the young growth is removed.
Pruning coniferous trees in order to form a crown is a very long and painstaking, individual and creative process.
A huge number of different types of decorative coniferous trees are known in the world. But today we will look at the easiest ways to trim and pinch ordinary wild trees and pines.
On our site and near it, as well as on the ditches and along the road, many pine and spruce seedlings have grown. Some leave them to grow in their place, but many transplant them to a plot or a nearby green area. So did we. Moreover, seedlings were transplanted both in spring and autumn. The result was equally positive.
The only thing that must be sustained is the former orientation of the plant to the north and south .
To this end, before transplanting to a branch pointing north (or south), we tie a small rope. After that, it will be impossible to make a mistake. As a result, we got a survival rate of 100%.
One year was given to our trees to take root in a new place. Throughout the season, the plants were watered abundantly on the needles. A year later, when new young shoots appeared, they made the first pinch.
What is the difference between pruning conifers and pinching?
Pruning of conifers, regardless of the type of plant, implies a cut or saw cut of a branch or part of a tree trunk of various ages. They try to prune young trees that have reached 3 years. But you can do it later: even at the age of 10 or more.
The fact is that under the influence of unstable climatic conditions, part of the branches may be damaged in the process of growth of a tree. Or you will not like their direction, which may also change over time, for example, under the influence of neighboring plants.
Pinching coniferous is breaking out completely or part of a young shoot, which in pine is often called a candle.
Why do you need pinching and pruning of conifers?
The main task of pinching is to make the branches of plants (where there are needles) thicker and fluffier.
If you only pinch, but not as usual, they break off one third of the growth, and by removing most of the lateral growth and completely removing vertical shoots, you can greatly slow down the growth of the plant.
For small gardens with plots of 6-8 acres, this is fully justified.
Pruning conifers helps to give the desired shape to the tree to a greater extent. Those branches that cannot be cut with a pruner are removed with a garden file.
The cut is processed with a knife so that the cut and hemp are not visible.
This procedure is desirable to do in the spring, the wound heals faster. You can repeat pruning several times per season. At what, who is too lazy, the place of the cut can not be processed with anything. The resin that comes out will protect the plant.
In the above photos, our pines, which were pinched for 4 years.
As long as their lower branches are not cut off. Now that the trees have reached a height of 2.5-3 meters, it will be possible to start shaping them. To make a crown in the shape of a ball, it is necessary to cut off the lower branches and remove the central stem shoot. After that, we will begin to form a crown from symmetrically located radial shoots. The next task, pinching young shoots every year, is to get branching in a horizontal plane, as in the example in the photo.
By controlling the length of the broken off part of the shoot, it is possible to achieve a uniform growth of branches, giving the tree the necessary shape.
spruce formation
Spruce can also be formed into a ball (see photo).
But more often spruces are used for growing hedges. Over time, when after repeated pinching they become more or less dense, you can move on to a haircut. In this case, the top and sides of the hedge can be formed as desired.
Since in this case there is a large amount of work to be done, special electric scissors are used.
By the way, note that the worker in the photo cuts, and does not pinch, young shoots on a pine tree. In many articles they write: in order not to spoil the appearance, you need to pinch the candles. We did just that. But when there is a large front of work, it is apparently not up to it. Our pines will now also be cut.
garden bonsai
Pines are softer and more flexible than spruces (especially in spring). Therefore, a curly haircut and work with branches to give them a bizarre and unusual shape are done on pine trees.
In order to direct the branch in the right direction, use a wire and extensions. With stretch marks, everything is clear: the branch is pulled down and to the side with the help of a rope, pulling and driving a peg with the second end of the rope into the ground. How the wire is attached to the branch can be seen in the photo.
By bending the branch together with the wire, we achieve the required position. This must be done in the spring. The wire is removed in late July - early August, so that the bark has time to recover from the effects of the wire tormentor before winter.
Tips for caring for coniferous trees
Every year in the spring, remove dry needles from the branches, especially in the thickened part of the plants, where there is not enough ventilation.
After pinching, it is advisable to spray the crown of the tree with a 7% solution of urea. It will be both as top dressing and as a remedy for the fungus.
Do not forget to water the plants with water over the needles in the spring, as in the strong sun there is an intensive evaporation of moisture from the needles, and the roots of the tree cannot yet absorb moisture from the frozen soil. This leads to wilting and yellowing of the needles.
Conclusion
Pruning conifers and pinching is a laborious and painstaking annual task. But the results of the work bring joy to yourself and your loved ones.
Good luck to everyone in your work and see you on the pages. follows.
P.S. If you do not have the strength or time to perform these works with coniferous trees, experts will come to the rescue. Already formed plants can be bought in numerous nurseries such as Imperial Garden near Moscow (see photo).
Gardeners who decorate plots with coniferous trees, such as Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), mountain pine (Pinus mugo) or black pine (Pinus nigra), constantly care about the health and appearance of prickly "pets". In addition to watering and top dressing, plants periodically require pruning.
Proper pruning of pine has a positive effect on the condition of the tree and the root system, helps to create landscape compositions. By giving a beautiful shape to the pine crown, you can rejuvenate the plant. However, this procedure is time-consuming and requires knowledge and skills.
Why pine trees are pruned
Scotch pine is an unpretentious plant. A year later, after the seedling has been planted on the site, you can begin to form a crown, perform pruning. What is the purpose of gardeners resorting to this procedure?
Sanitary care for pine
Tree pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes, for the improvement of Scotch pine. They do it regularly, removing broken, dried, damaged branches, which are dangerous in strong wind or rain, as they can come off.
In addition, tall trees with an extensive crown are pruned to reduce the area of shaded areas and plant other plants around. To do this, cut off the lower branches.
Tree rejuvenation
Mature plants with a large number of dried or bare branches are pruned to stimulate the emergence of young shoots.
Decorative pruning pine
Scotch pine is given a certain shape. For example, on the site you can arrange a hedge or grow a coniferous plant using the bonsai technique, or simply cut it in such a way that the crown of the tree acquires a spherical, pyramidal or tiered shape. When cutting, it is important to be guided by a sense of proportion, without turning the fluffy conifer into a dwarf shrub.
On the site you can grow a coniferous plant using the bonsai technique.
Maintaining the right size
If mountain pine or Scotch pine is planted in a small area, it must be trimmed to control the height and girth of the crown. If the area on which the tree grows is extensive, it is advisable to leave it at full growth. So the coniferous plant looks much more attractive.
If mountain pine or Scotch pine is planted in a small area, it must be trimmed to control the height and girth of the crown.
If the gardener does not see any reason for pruning, then this procedure can be abandoned.
When work is done
Scotch pine pruning for sanitary purposes is allowed at any time of the year. For example, if there is a need to urgently get rid of broken branches that are dangerous, they cannot be delayed in their removal. But the most preferred time for pruning is spring.
- In the spring months, you can stimulate the growth of young shoots, form a crown, giving it a certain appearance. Experienced gardeners are advised to start work at the moment when new shoots, called candles, grow, and at the same time pine needles do not have time to bloom.
- Summer is the best time to remove old branches that prevent the sun's rays from penetrating the crown, as well as to stimulate growth. In young pines, you can cut off excess shoots that extend beyond the crown. Doing this in the fall is not recommended, because the tree will not have time to develop a special substance, cambium, which promotes wound healing.
- Autumn is a period when a gardener can think about rejuvenating his tree. In Scotch pine, the growth zones are located at the tips of the shoots, so it is necessary to cut off the ends of old shoots.
- The end of autumn and winter is not the right time for pruning, as Scots pine becomes vulnerable, it can die from the cold.
If there is a need to urgently get rid of broken branches that are dangerous, you can not hesitate to remove them.
Regular pruning is the best way to give the plant a neat appearance or an interesting crown shape without damaging its condition. Depending on what the original shape of the tree is, the purpose of planting it on the site, various techniques are used. But there are general rules for crown formation:
- manipulations can be carried out a year after planting the pine on the site;
- no more than a third of the live weight can be harvested at a time;
- bare branches of the Scotch pine cannot be left;
- clipping tools must be well sharpened so as not to cause additional injury to the plant, and also cleaned to prevent infection;
- the use of garden pitch when cutting Scotch pine should be abandoned, it is replaced by resin;
- the cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees, so that its lower edge is higher than the upper one by a maximum of 2 mm;
- the height of the cut should be medium so that the resin does not flow out too abundantly, and at the same time it is enough to heal a fresh wound;
- branches directed vertically must be cut to the outer soil, inclined - to the inner;
- thick, old branches are carefully cut down so as not to damage the bark;
- extensive wounds can be additionally treated with garden pitch.
Regular pruning is the best way to give the plant a neat appearance or an interesting crown shape without damaging its condition.
Common crown shapes
- Traditional form. Many coniferous crops independently form a beautiful crown. But with the help of a decorative “haircut” an ordinary, black or mountain pine can be given an original appearance - from a pyramid, ball or cone to the most intricate outlines. But such painstaking and delicate work is often only possible for the most skilled craftsmen. Amateurs are usually limited to planned sanitary pruning.
- Hedges. Scots pine can be grown as a hedge. In this case, it is necessary to cut off its branches every year. When the height of the tree becomes sufficient, its top is cut off. Lateral shoots begin to grow more actively, so that the gaps between adjacent trees become minimal.
- Nivaki. This style of tree cultivation originated in Japan and is especially popular in temples in that country. It is quite possible to use it when growing pine. The shape of the crown may be different. For example, you can form a triangular crown and a straight trunk or deviating from the vertical. This technique requires a lot of effort and time. Applying it, gardeners determine what the height of the pine should be, and gradually eliminate excess branches so that the necessary crown shape is created. Young shoots are shortened by more than half every year, candles are pinched, and part of the needles are cut off.
The niwaki style originated in Japan and is especially popular in the temples of this country.
Trimming types
To give a common pine one form or another, you need to know what types of pruning exist and apply them correctly.
- Branch thinning. Its goal is to get rid of branches that are poorly located and spoil the appearance, dried up, damaged or located very close to each other. The selected branches are removed completely so that the cut is short.
- Pinching. This is a method of forming a dense crown, used at the beginning of the summer season, when the growth of young shoots, or candles, is completed. Their tops or shoots are completely cut off with a pruner or hacksaw. After this procedure, several shoots appear at the base of the candles. The crown becomes abundantly lush, acquiring a spherical shape.
- pruning. It involves the removal of part of the trunk of a young or adult plant. In this way, it is possible to form an ordinary pine in such a way that its height does not exceed two meters. To do this, the upper part is cut off, after which adjacent side shoots are regularly removed so that they do not replace the top.
Care after the procedure
Scotch pine is very unpretentious, it does not require special growing conditions, maintaining certain temperature, humidity, watering, fertilizing. However, when pruning, it must be borne in mind that too frequent procedures weaken the plant and can lead to diseases.
Removing branches is a lot of stress for Scotch pine. Therefore, after such procedures, the tree needs attention and care. If it seems "sick", you can feed the plant with mineral or phosphate fertilizers.
It is important to remember about watering, while avoiding the other extreme - an excess of moisture. Scots pine needs two waterings per month. Experienced gardeners after a "stress" operation strengthen fluffy "darlings" with the help of special stimulants.
The main task in the formation of Scots pine is accurate, harmless and timely manipulations so that the coniferous beauty pleases with a neat appearance of the crown and a pleasant aroma.
I always wanted to decorate the site with conifers, especially since the site is not even, but located on a hillside, with a large elevation difference, with platforms of different heights. Not thinking that I would ever grow vegetables, I planted arborvitae, junipers, mountain pine, white fir, Siberian pine in different years. She brought ordinary junipers from the forest - male and female specimens. All are pleasing to the eye. But my special passion is the common pine, which no one needs to introduce, it does not need a description, because. in our region is known to everyone since childhood.
With all my love for this majestic and useful tree, I cannot let it grow like in a pine forest. How to find a way out? How to properly restrain the growth of branches, because in some years the growth of pines can reach a meter ...
Pines grow on various soils, most often on sandy, stony or peaty soils. They are undemanding to air humidity and richness of the soil, adapted to various temperature conditions.
A blue sky peeps through the openwork crown, needles warmed by the sun and resinous branches exude a tart aroma ... This aroma is especially felt in hot weather. The pine is a rather light-loving tree, so its trunks below are completely devoid of branches, the branches simply die off as soon as less light than they need begins to flow from above through the crown.
Another important difference between pine is that it can only grow in clean air. After all, it is the gas and dust of the city that disrupt the vital processes of pine - photosynthesis and gas exchange. That is why the pine trees that were planted several years ago along the busy streets of our patriarchal and sleepy regional center are dying on the highest order of the then governor from Peter Slyunyaev. At that time there was not a single specialist-expert in his entourage who would explain how, where and why pine trees should be planted like that. The trace of the official has caught a cold, but the blackened skeletons of pines stand as a monument to another bungling, ignorance and sycophancy ... But let's not talk about bad things. Kostroma land still cannot be imagined without a pine tree.
We planted a total of 11 pines on the site, three of the bottom are miniature. There is a special discussion about them at the end. And the rest were planted both in spring and autumn at different times and came to the conclusion that the best time for planting is early autumn, September. The tree manages to gain a foothold in a new place and survive stress, although the spring method has a place to be, but then you need to hurry up, plant it as soon as the thawed earth allows. Well, the whole process of delivering dug out pine should take 15-20 minutes.
Pine trees took root, started to grow, and the growth in the year of planting will always be less than usual. Stress, however!
When planting, we did not think that we would build a small winter house in this place. There is nothing terrible from such a neighborhood, because pillar foundation. One of the pines almost died, I had to cut the central shoot, but then suddenly a side branch rose and took the place of the central branch. You can see it in the photo:
The cut was made above the annual growth. The 2-3-year-old pines are the easiest to take root, they also grow faster, overtaking their older sisters. Sometimes the ugliest specimens even out, become irresistible. Before you start shaping your pine tree, you need to determine how tall the tree needs to be and whether you want a Japanese style pine or just a fluffy conifer. I think it's better to show on photo examples. In the photo, the kidneys of the Siberian cedar pine, in the common one, everything is the same. Sorry, I just couldn't find a photo.
Pine buds are young shoots in the embryonic stage of growth. At the tops of the branches, they are located alone or in whorls of several pieces. In May, they are actively growing. By pinching young shoots at the beginning of summer, you can form a pine tree depending on your tastes. If you break off the kidneys by less than 1/3 of the length, then we will not hold back the growth of the tree much. But even in this case, the pine will branch more actively, more buds will form at the ends of the branches than it would be without pinching.
In the photo on the left is a pine tree, in which all shoots were shortened by 1/2 length in June 2014. As a result, by August 2014 new buds were formed, there are a lot of them. In the picture, when enlarged, dozens of shoots are already visible in June 2015. Last season, I didn't deliberately break them off. From the 2016 season, the pinching will be annual and stronger, because. The height of the pine is already 3 meters. This pine tree was planted in a swampy area, which had to be drained by digging drainage ditches, although they did not completely solve the problem with spring flooding. But they got rid of marsh plants, brought out horse sorrel, buttercup, and mowing the lawn. We did not expect that the pine would like it so much here. And the thing is that when planted at a young age, pines adapt well to the conditions of the site, depending on the level of groundwater, developing a root system, deep or superficial.
In the foreground and to the right are 2 pines of the same age. Only the one in the center, I pinched in 2014 by 2 cm, but did not touch the right one. So she gave a huge increase, in the summer I will begin to form.
If you think that you need a bonsai-style pine, then you need to remove up to 2/3 of the length of the kidneys, or even more. The growth of the tree in this case is well restrained. Therefore, you need to decide on the desired height.
I tried it on a few pine trees at the edge of the forest. Here are a couple of pines after pinching for two seasons:
A month later, we met hunters at this place, while I was photographing a bear track on clay, and my husband was talking to the huntsman, my pine tree was liked by a "lover" of nature with a childish face of a Kostroma paratrooper:
I didn’t even have time to blink an eye, as he broke off the top of his head ... I ask: “Why ???” In response: “I’ll plant it!” ... No comments ...
But all pine wood is permeated with the smallest resin passages. If you inflict a wound on a tree, fragrant amber resin will come out of the resin passages and quickly fill it. The tree itself imposes a plaster that has a bactericidal effect. Resin containing turpentine is emitted by a pine tree, air is ozonated, which is why being in a pine forest is so beneficial for us.
Pine needles live for a full 2 years, the loss of old needles with such a pinch will not be noticeable. And right there, the state of the formed pine tree will show the degree of purity of the air in the area.
In the spring of 2015, we planted three pine trees of bizarre shapes that had been trying to grow for several years on a railway embankment two kilometers from us. Trains rarely run there, but a locomotive-mower passes to keep the tracks in order.
It was in April.
The pines were planted on an artificially created mound of sand and gravel. Such bedding is on both sides of our house, its area is large, but we already grow lilacs, Japanese quince, hostas, oregano, and even strawberries on it. I didn’t pinch the new settlers, I regretted it, everyone got accustomed well over the past summer.
The buds of these pines are bad, so there is nothing to cut off at the top, and the “extra” branch looking to the right will show itself this season. She will rise and get stronger, then we'll see. With pines, the best principle is "DO NOT CUT".
It is necessary to pinch pine shoots with gloves, the resin is poorly washed. The pinching procedure should be carried out when the shoots stop growing, and young needles begin to separate from the stem. Then, by the end of summer, the pine will lay many new buds for the next year. I would be glad if my modest experience is useful to someone from the seven-summer gardens. After all, I also encountered the fact that it is difficult to understand how, when and how much to pinch from a pine tree. But more importantly, what will come of it? Everything is always easy with spruce. And from such a button, next to the Christmas tree in the April forest:
Here is such a beauty:
She will not be afraid of frost or hot sun / unlike expensive overseas pines /, she will grow gratefully with any plants nearby / unlike a Christmas tree /. It will give you joy and health.
It seems to many that pruning conifers is unnatural, because they can lose their already beautiful appearance. But their nature is such that with age, some conifers, and simply specimens, become ugly. Only collection forms in botanical gardens are not cut. That's why they are collectible, to disturb less, to save more species.
Yes, let's not hide, pruning conifers can lead to their death, but you have to try so hard and be so ignorant towards the poor tree ... Everything must be done with love, with an understanding of the matter, with confidence in the correctness, otherwise you can ruin an expensive copy of a coniferous hybrid or the same ordinary pine tree, but which has been growing for so long and has become so accustomed to the family.
But it is still desirable to form and cut the growing conifers in the garden plot in order to slow down the growth rate, because of which the tree grows and covers everything with a shadow, or it happens that part of the tree is exposed, the branches grow crookedly. Therefore, decorative or preventive pruning of conifers is necessary here.
In small gardens, coniferous pruning is needed so that it functions as intended, that is, so that the path does not become overgrown, so as not to lose labels with the names of plants (if any, it is actually very convenient), so that the plants themselves do not stretch out to the sun was not exposed. If you want the plant to grow in its natural form, then it is easy enough to thin out the inner branches.
If there is a breed of coniferous plant with a wide - oval crown (thuja, cypress), then we advise you to remove several leading main branches while the tree is young, and then trim the tips of the shoots. Thus, if this process is repeated every 2 years in the spring or in the middle of summer, then the tree will not grow much in width, but the density will increase much.
Pruning of conifers is also needed for those plants that were grafted and began to grow incorrectly, in general, in order to balance growth. For example, pruning a grafted prickly spruce will prevent several tops from developing, which can suddenly wake up and grow unattended in different directions and different lengths, interfering with each other. In such a spruce, it is necessary to cut the side branches and shorten the shoots so that the shape of the crown of the ball is more pyramidal and one-topped. This process may take a couple of years until you see that the leading apical shoot has taken its place.
But some species or varieties of variegated conifers may lose their variegated color over time. But it will be preserved or updated by the same pruning of conifers. Here, for example, some cypress trees, after pruning and shaping the crown, become thick, cushion-shaped with beautiful, fresh bluish or silver needles. But if they are not cut off, then they stretch out, become bare, and at the bottom the needles begin to turn yellow .... Spruce and fir do not like when they cut shoots older than one year, then they get sick for a long time. (photo pruning conifers in the garden)
Pruning conifers requires the right tools, mainly a pruner, garden shears, a small small hacksaw. Make sure they are in good condition, of good quality, so that when using these tools you will not distort the plant and do not injure yourself. Therefore, they must be sharp and disinfected.
Pruning of coniferous creeping and prostrate (juniper, yew) is carried out in early spring, powerful side shoots are cut, this will increase the density of the crown. In the same way, the width and height of these plants are controlled. Prune in early spring before new growth begins.
Pruning coniferous spherical is also carried out in early spring. While the plants are young, they keep their shape well, but in adulthood they may grow separate lateral shoots, or the buds of the tree on which the hybrid was grafted wake up in the grafted plants, then the plant becomes ugly in shape or runs wild.
Pines grow intensively in summer. To cut them, you need to cut out parts of the lateral young shoots with a secateurs, but at the same time make sure that you do not damage the lateral buds from which the next lateral shoots will then form. Many gardeners cut off young shoots with their hands, so the pine tree looks more natural after the “haircut”. Pines have a special biology of development and growth of shoots. They grow in early summer, the shoots resemble candelabra, and at this time they are still without needles, which develop later. If you want to limit the size of the tree, you need to trim or pinch these candles while they are still soft. At this time, young buds still have the opportunity to form and mature by winter and form a normal growth for the next year. It is possible to keep a Scots pine tree at the size of a man at the age of, say, about 30 years. Otherwise, being uncircumcised, this tree, most likely, would have been over ten meters long ago.
It happens that conifers have grown unattended and shaded the ground under them, even the windows of the house. We suggest reshaping the tree, cutting off all the lower branches and removing some internal ones. This will free the bottom of the tree from the shadow, under it other plants can grow. And at the same time, the coniferous tree will remain interesting in a new way. Many prostrate pines normally belong to such pruning, especially with beautiful bark, for example, like the Sosnowsky pine.
Large conifers need to be carefully cut, before that go around the tree several times and plan the pruning well. It's better not to cut something than to cut it. There is such an option - first cut off the top, then leave it for a couple of years and look at the “reaction” of the tree, and then cut off the side shoots, form a crown. Do not forget that very old branches should not be cut, after which the tree is sick for a long time or may die. If this happens, then it is advisable to call a pruning expert. Even if you pay him, you will save a tree that costs much more than cutting it.
Softwood pruning - system:
S - cutting lines;
B - sleeping kidneys;
K - laid buds at the site of cuts (type of shoot by the end of summer).
Pruning coniferous hedges needs periodicity and accuracy. It needs to be trimmed each year to the specific shape you want to give the hedge. A small, low cut with ordinary garden scissors. But often a more powerful tool is required. Hedges are best planted small. Give the sides a light trim after the first year and trim the top permanently once the desired height is reached. After that, the lateral growth will be more powerful. This will help fill in gaps and gaps between plants in the row.
Narrow conical forms should be planted at a distance of about 60 cm from each other. A distance of about 1 m is suitable for taller and faster growing plants such as common thuja occidentalis. Low prostrate plants, such as juniper medium, should also be planted at a distance of 1 m from each other, or perhaps even further, as they will increase in size primarily in width.
Pruning time is not limited to a strictly defined season and timing, but the most suitable time for pruning hedges is early to mid-spring, before the buds burst, given that the maximum intensity of shoot growth in many conifers occurs at the end of spring - early summer. Young plants can be pruned a second time at the end of summer, when the main growth has already ended, but the cambium is still functioning, so that the cuts can heal before autumn.
The shaping and pruning of pine is often done to give it a decorative look, as this plant is considered one of the most popular for landscape design. A properly designed crown will look very neat. In addition, pruning helps to rejuvenate rather laborious and painstaking work, but it must be done regularly.
Why pine pruning?
Pine is a fairly unpretentious plant, but it requires proper care and timely pruning. With the help of pruning, you can give the plant a different decorative look and make it a real decoration of the garden. To rejuvenate the plant, only sanitary pruning of the lower branches of the pine, as well as dry and diseased shoots, is carried out to keep the tree healthy.
It is undesirable that the height of the tree exceeds 180 centimeters. Pruning is best done when the height of the pine reaches one and a half meters. If the crown grows very strongly, then cutting it will be quite difficult. In addition, if too many green branches are removed, the plant may die.
How is pruning and shaping done?
Regardless of the reason for pruning a pine tree, ways to shorten branches to restrain growth are common, namely:
- crown thinning;
- shortening or pinching;
- branch stretching.
Crown thinning involves the removal of branches in whole or in part to remove excess shoots or give the desired shape. Shortening or pinching means removing part of the shoot. Basically, this procedure is carried out in late May or early June. Stretching branches means fixing the branches in a certain position.
Pine pruning should be carried out no earlier than the next year after planting the seedling. It is not necessary to cut more than 30% of the total amount of green mass at a time. It is necessary to carry out pruning in clothes, which can then be thrown away, since the resin secreted by coniferous trees is not excreted.
After the pruning procedure is completed, the trees need to be given appropriate care. It is necessary to make top dressing, mineral fertilizers, as well as to ensure high-quality watering.
decorative pruning
Decorative pruning of pine helps to give the tree a more beautiful and well-groomed appearance. Plants with a decorative crown are ideal for arranging and decorating an alley.
It is best to prune on cloudy days to prevent dark spots on the needles that occur when the liquid evaporates strongly. Decorative pruning is carried out in such a way that the crown retains an even pyramidal shape. Thanks to proper pruning, the tree will look more sprawling and fluffy, becoming a real decoration of the summer cottage.
Formation of a pine tree in the style of Nivaki
When forming a pine crown in the Nivaki style, an odd number of branches should be left in each tier. It is also necessary to thin out the branches at the base of the trunk, and leave the growing shoots along the perimeter, removing the central, largest candle, and pinch the rest of the shoots a little.
After carrying out this procedure, the branch should resemble a triangle located in the same plane. As it grows, it is necessary to continue the formation of the tree, leaving only healthy and large shoots, slightly bending and fixing them to obtain the desired result.
Pruning and shaping bonsai
Japanese-style pine pruning is carried out from the second year of the tree's growth. The trunk of a mature pine tree cannot be formed, as the branches will only break. The tree tolerates pruning well, but it must be done very carefully and no more than once a year.
The formation of the crown for bonsai is carried out using wire. This is best done in late autumn, when the tree is least active. To do this, the branches are bent to the sides and firmly fixed. To give the pine the desired look, you need to remove extra buds every year. Given that the upper buds grow much faster, you need to remove most of the upper buds, leaving the lower ones.
Plucking of needles is mandatory, as this contributes to the penetration of air to the internal branches and shoots. In addition, it allows you to control the width and height of the pine. Plucking of needles is carried out from mid-summer to late autumn.
To ennoble the tree, it is necessary to periodically trim the needles to reduce their length. Pruning is carried out at the end of summer on a fully formed tree.
Pine pruning for rejuvenation
One of the tasks of pruning a tree is its rejuvenation. It is necessary to remove too dilapidated, dry and diseased branches in order to induce dormant buds to more active growth. It is important to cut the branches in such a way that the needles remain on them, otherwise they will simply dry out.
Pruning for pine rejuvenation is carried out every three years. Thanks to this procedure, the tree will look good and will take up much less space.
The best time for pruning
So that pruning pine does not harm the plant, you need to carry out all the required procedures at a certain time. In the spring, pruning is carried out in order to form a compact top. Work on the removal of dry and diseased branches is carried out at any time.
During the period of active vegetation, which runs from mid-summer to the end of winter, it is better not to disturb the tree. To stop the growth of the crown and shoots, the branches are shortened after the growth of candles. Shoots need to be cut in early spring.
To correct the length of young shoots, autumn pruning can be carried out, but it should be remembered that only small branches can be removed. During pruning, the temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees, otherwise the cut will freeze, which will lead to the death of the plant.
Planting a coniferous tree
Many are interested in how to plant a pine tree, as well as when to do it. The best time for planting seedlings is spring or autumn. With a later planting, the tree simply does not have time to adapt to new conditions and prepare for winter or dry summer, as a result of which the seedling may die.
It is important to choose the right pine seedlings, they must be with a closed root system in containers. The main advantages of such seedlings are that they:
- have a well-developed root system;
- protected from damage;
- the roots retain the microorganisms required to absorb minerals and moisture from the soil.
The bacteria that the tree needs live on the roots and die in the open air in just a few minutes. You should not choose too large pine seedlings, since the younger the plant, the faster it will be able to adapt to new conditions. The optimal age of the seedling is 5 years.
For planting a plant, you need to choose well-lit, sunny areas or partial shade. A tree planted in the shade develops much worse, and also has a sparse crown. When preparing a recess for planting, you need to focus on the size of the container. The recess should be 15-20 cm larger in diameter and 20-30 cm deep.
Pine does not tolerate stagnant water, which is why, if groundwater is located close to the soil surface, then in the planting recess it is necessary to make a drainage layer of gravel or expanded clay (about 5-10 cm high). The drainage layer must be filled with soil enriched with minerals.
The tree must be carefully pulled out of the container and placed in a previously prepared recess, trying to maintain the integrity of the earthen coma. It is best to plant the plant slightly above the soil level, with the expectation that the soil will still sag. The space around the sprout needs to be compacted a little and covered with fertile soil. Then make a small recess for watering so that the water does not spread over the surface. Immediately after planting, the tree must be watered and sprayed with the sprout itself. By knowing how to plant a pine tree, you can beautifully decorate your garden with these evergreens, which are easy to shape and prune.
Pine remains one of the most common plants used to decorate a site during landscaping. A properly formed crown will look neat, and small pine trees will turn into one of the main decorative elements, and at the same time make the atmosphere on the site pleasant and healthy. For this, pine pruning should be carried out in a timely manner: this is not a very difficult job, but it will have to be done regularly.
, it is important to take care that the roots do not remain bare even for a few minutes during transplantation: because of this, they may die. A year after planting, you can begin to form the crown of a young tree.
This is the name given to the removal of old and diseased branches, necessary for the tree to remain healthy. However, in this case, a danger is created for other plants due to the shadow formed due to the dense crown. You can form a hedge from pine or use it to decorate the site, timely pruning allows you to keep the plant both beautiful and healthy.
If the roof grows, it will be difficult to trim it, and on the site this will lead to additional problems. It is impossible to turn the territory into a forest, it has many other functions, and excessive growth of green spaces should not be allowed.
In addition, in advanced cases, pruning is dangerous: it is stressful for the plant, and if a large amount of green mass is removed, the pine may die. Do not delay the implementation of sanitary procedures, even if at first glance they seem difficult.
In order for pruning to bring pine not harm, but benefit, it must be carried out in accordance with the following requirements:
- The procedure is carried out when young shoots began to appear in the pine - the so-called increments or candles. When they begin to grow, they contain the embryos of future needles, it is important to remove the growth when it has already grown to the maximum, but the needles have not yet begun to fluff. Coniferous trees wake up quite late after winter, the active growth of new shoots will begin only in May. Because of this, pruning is recommended only in June.
- For pruning, simple garden shears with a long blade are used. Processing begins from the top of the tree, the skeletal branches are cut off separately, while leaving small stumps (no more than 5 cm). Subsequently, they will grow, but the total annual growth will not exceed three centimeters.
- If, after spring pruning, the candles still gave stronger growths, you can not cut the pine branch into needles. In this case, the green needles will quickly turn yellow, which will make the tree look messy. Each needle lives not for one year, but for several, so initially incorrect pruning can cause serious harm, and it will not be possible to fix it quickly.
- The pruning site is treated with copper sulphate, if you had to inflict serious wounds on the plant, then they are smeared with pitch. This will avoid the ingress of pathogenic bacteria and the onset of putrefactive processes.
The first pruning is carried out in the spring, and at the end of the summer, additional crown adjustments can be made.
It is important that the pruning tool is clean and very sharp for a neat cut. Otherwise, it can become a source of infection for the entire plant. In just one pruning, no more than one third of the green mass can be removed, otherwise the damage to the plant will be irreparable.
Pine pruning is carried out not only for sanitary purposes to limit the height of the crown.
Many are attracted to neat crowns, which can be achieved with the right decorative pruning. Pines with a decorative crown can be used to create hedges, design alleys, etc.
How to choose a tree for these purposes:
- For this procedure, it is better to choose cloudy days so that brown spots do not begin to appear on the needles that occur during increased evaporation of moisture.
- One of the advantages of pine is that it is not necessary to buy a seedling specifically.
- Sometimes you can just dig a suitable sprout in the forest and plant it on the site.
- In the shade of large trees, such seedlings grow slowly, and with the right transplant to a new place, they will quickly begin to develop, actively giving new shoots.
- In this case, it will be much easier to form a crown, since you do not have to remove a large number of branches.
- Usually, small pines are chosen for transplantation, whose age does not exceed 3-4 years.
In nurseries, they cost from about 300 to 1000 rubles, in the forest you can simply pick up a young plant, which will still be difficult to grow due to the shade of large trees. It is better not to choose large ones, as they do not tolerate a change of place and can get sick for a whole year. Decorative pruning is usually carried out in such a way that the crown retains even pyramidal outlines, however, thanks to it, the pine tree will look more fluffy and sprawling, turning into a real decoration of the site.
One of the goals of pruning is to rejuvenate an old tree, as over time the growth zone will still tend to the ends of the shoots. If you do not interfere with this process, you can get almost bare long branches, devoid of needles. This is done as follows:
- In autumn or winter, the ends of already bare old branches are cut off to awaken dormant buds.
- Too large old branches are removed, on which there are no more points of growth.
- In the spring, new sprouts will appear on the remainder of the branch, which will then turn into full-fledged shoots.
It is important to cut the branches so that at least part of the needles still remain on them, otherwise the branch will simply dry out completely.
In this way, you can turn an old pine tree into an almost new tree with young bright green needles. Anti-aging pruning is carried out approximately once every three years, thanks to it the tree will look good and take its rightful place in the landscape composition of the site.
Pine is an unpretentious plant familiar to the Russian climate, which is very easy to care for.
It can become one of the decorations of the yard, in addition, it can be dressed up for the new year if you do not want to cut down a living tree to install it in your home. Taking care of the tree and its timely pruning will make the pine tree beautiful and well-groomed, which will allow you to harmoniously and accurately decorate the summer cottage.
More information can be found in the video.
Cultural cultivation of coniferous plants involves constant care for their health and beauty. Pruning pine and spruce is a useful operation that has a positive effect on the condition of the tree.
Why cut pine and spruce?
There are several types of pruning popular conifers.
- Sanitary pruning.
This is the most common way to help a plant. Broken, weak and damaged branches are regularly removed. They pose a danger to the plant itself, as they sometimes cause fungal diseases. Such branches can break off and damage surrounding objects or people nearby, especially in strong winds or other adverse natural phenomena. Sanitary pruning can be done on a large specimen if the tree will shade the area too much. In this case, the lower branches are completely removed - after that, other plants can be planted with pine.
- Rejuvenating haircut.
It is carried out on an adult pine and spruce with a large number of bare and dry branches to stimulate the growth of new shoots.
- Decorative pruning.
The most popular type. The procedure is carried out on coniferous trees, which act as a hedge, and when grown using the bonsai technique. When cultivating pine and spruce in their usual form, regular pruning is also carried out. The procedure improves the shape of the crown, and, if necessary, inhibits the growth of the tree, which is especially important for tall varieties.
When is work done?
Sanitary pruning is carried out at any time of the year. Work is carried out urgently if an emergency occurs, for example, a large branch is broken and poses a threat to surrounding people, animals or buildings.
In the spring they form a crown, create a compact top and give the pine and spruce a decorative look. The time of spring pruning depends on climatic and weather conditions.
Young shoots of the current year are called candles. Work is carried out when they reach their maximum size, but the needles have not yet begun to bloom. This usually happens in June.
In summer, it is appropriate to prune young shoots that extend beyond the crown. In young plants, extra branches can be removed until the end of summer. It is not recommended to do this later: before the cold weather, the cambium does not have time to stand out, which “heals” fresh wounds.
Anti-aging haircut is carried out in the fall. The main growth zone is located at the ends of pine and spruce shoots, so over time, old trees lose their lower leaves and lose their attractiveness. They cut off the ends on the bare old shoots, leaving part of the needles on them. In spring, dormant buds will wake up on shortened shoots and new young branches will grow.
Pruning in late autumn and in winter is not recommended: cuts become vulnerable, wood may freeze.
The result of pruning depends on the condition of the tree. A healthy and vigorous plant will tolerate the procedure easily. In a very weakened pine or spruce, dormant buds may not wake up, so work is not carried out on such a plant.
Features of crown formation
A coniferous tree is a wonderful decoration for any garden. Along with Scotch pine (green), varieties with a grayish, silvery and even yellowish tint of needles have become widespread. With regular pruning, the decorativeness of the tree increases without worsening its general condition.
Pine and spruce pruning tactics depend on the growing method. The work required differs depending on whether the plant has the traditional form of a common downy tree, is used for hedges, or is cultivated in the Japanese style. Each pruning has its own goal, the main task is to imagine in advance what result should be obtained.
- Traditional form.
In many coniferous trees, a beautiful crown is formed independently. For example, blue spruce usually does not need pruning, acquiring a dense evergreen cap with age.
With the help of decorative pruning, a tree can be given an original shape. A beautiful pyramid, a flat hemisphere, a cone or a cylinder - the option depends on the skill and imagination of the author, as well as on the type of wood. You can create coniferous masterpieces in the form of animals and people, but only very skilled craftsmen can do such work on spruce and pine trees.
More often, the usual planned pruning is carried out, its scheme depends on the desired shape and condition of the plant. Only trees older than two years can be subjected to such a procedure.
- Hedge.
When growing pine in the form of a living coniferous hedge, pruning is carried out annually. The top is removed for the first time when the plant reaches the required height. This will stimulate the growth of side shoots and reduce the gaps between adjacent specimens.
- Nivaki style.
This is the Japanese art of cultivating garden trees and is often used in the cultivation of pine and spruce. It differs from the bonsai style known to many in the way it is grown. "Bonsai" - "a tree on a tray", and the roots of nivaki are not limited to a small pot, but develop in freedom, directly in the garden. Depending on the style of nivaki, pine or spruce is formed in different ways. For example, as a straight tree with a triangular crown shape or at an angle to the ground. Monkaburi is an original way of shaping pine. At such a tree, one very long horizontal branch is left, which is located above the entrance to the garden. In Japanese monasteries and temples, old niwaki-style pine trees are especially revered.
To create a tree in this technique will take a lot of time and effort, it is a long and painstaking process. They are determined with the desired height of the plant, regularly remove the "extra" branches and form a crown. New shoots annually need to be shortened by more than half their length. Creating a pine or spruce in the style of nivaki consists of pinching candles, removing some of the needles and cutting. This is a creative process, each plant needs an individual approach.
Pine emits a lot of fragrant amber resin. After pruning, the tree heals its wounds on its own with this bactericidal substance. All work should be carried out with gloves, because the resin is difficult to wash. The cut does not need additional processing with preparations.
How to cut?
A disinfected tool is used to carry out the work. Depending on the age of the tree and the thickness of the branches, a pruner, garden shears, a small hacksaw or a file are used.
There are several types of pruning.
- thinning.
Remove poorly located branches that spoil the appearance of pine or spruce. In a too dense crown, over time, some of the shoots die off due to insufficient sunlight. Too close neighboring branches can damage each other. Timely thinning helps prevent such problems.
Before work, they inspect the tree, remove the unnecessary branch completely. The cut point is made short. They try to process it with a knife so that there is no hemp left.
- Pinching.
This method helps to form a denser and fluffy crown of the plant. It is carried out when young shoots stop growing at the beginning of summer, and the needles are already beginning to separate from the stem. During pinching, part of the candle is partially or completely broken out.
Small branches can be cut with a sharp pruner, and large ones with a garden file or a hacksaw. Remove parts of the shoots carefully so as not to damage the dormant buds, from which new shoots will appear in the future. At the base of a truncated branch, 3-4 new strong shoots usually appear, on weak plants there may be fewer of them. The crown becomes fluffy, acquires a rounded shape.
With a late pinching (end of July - August), the kidneys do not have time to form in the current season. They will appear only next spring.
- Pruning.
This is the most common way to change the appearance of a pine or spruce. When pruning, part of the tree trunk is removed. The operation is performed on both young and adult specimens.
The young tree quickly stretches, adding about 15 cm annually. If desired, an adult Scots pine over thirty years old can be formed up to two meters high with the help of proper pruning. In nature, such plants grow above 10 meters.
The pruning scheme for pine and spruce is due to the apical type of growth of these plants. After removing the upper part, it will periodically be necessary to remove the remaining neighboring shoots: they tend to replace the removed top over time, tend to take up a vertical position. On mature wood, dormant recovery buds do not germinate, so plant formation begins at a young age.
Trimming Tips
- For one haircut, no more than a third of the green mass of the plant is removed.
- Work is carried out regularly, long breaks or cessation of pruning will spoil the result of previous work.
- Trimming pine and spruce begins at a young age, when it has a compact shape.
- When pinching, they usually remove up to 2/3 of the growth. During pruning, 1/3 of the branch is removed.
- The first year after planting, coniferous plants adapt and take root in a new place; additional intervention will not benefit.
Care after the procedure
Pine and spruce are undemanding to soil quality, humidity and temperature. The mode of watering and fertilizing after pruning does not change. It should be remembered that frequent and thoughtless haircut weakens the plant and can cause various diseases. The main task is to carry out the work correctly and in a timely manner.
The coniferous beauty will thank you for your care with a neat appearance and excellent health. She will delight you with an elegant evergreen crown for decades.
Prune conifers in late winter or early spring. In general, conifers should be pruned in late winter or early spring to encourage lush, healthy new branches and foliage in the spring. There is also less risk of fungal infections at this time of year because the bark is more easily damaged when the trees are growing.
Choose sharp, properly sized tools. Tools used for pruning coniferous trees should always be sharp as it is safer and more efficient. You can determine which type of tool to use based on the size of the pruned branches.
- If the branches are less than 1.25 cm thick, use a hand pruner or a sliding blade pruner that comes with scissors. If the branches are more than 1.25 cm thick but less than 3.8 cm in diameter, use a lopper or lopper.
- When the branches are more than 3.8 cm in diameter, use a file. Hedge clippers or shears can be used to shape conifers that are grown as a hedge or to maintain them in a particular state.
Disinfect pruning tools before use. It is recommended that gardeners disinfect any tools they are going to use with alcohol or regular bleach before they start pruning their trees. This helps prevent any contaminants from being unintentionally spread throughout the yard.
Determine which branches can and should be cut. The main trunk of coniferous trees, as a rule, is not cut off. However, if the tree has a second trunk, you can cut the weaker trunk. You can also trim the branches to keep the conifer tidy if necessary.
- Remove entire branches to thin out overgrown growth, if necessary, and open up the interior of conifers for better sun exposure and air circulation. Branches that grow at an angle should also be removed.
- However, choose branches carefully. Once an entire branch is removed from either a coniferous tree or a shrub, it will not grow back.
Cut the branches at an angle of 45°-60° in the correct location. Trim entire branches at a 45°-60° angle near the neck of the branch.
- Be very careful not to damage the neck of the branch, the raised bark at the base of the branch.
- Large branches should be cut 15.2-30.5 cm from the neck of the branch.
Make two cuts in each branch. Cut about half of the branch from the bottom, then cut half from the top, about 2.54 cm further where the cut was made on the bottom branch.
- The weight of the branch will break it. This will eliminate the bulk of the branch and protect the neck of the branch from damage. Trim the rest of the branch to the neck of the branch.
- When only part of a branch is cut, the cut should be made at 0.6. see for new leaf bud.
Check the pruning requirements for specific species. Some conifers have specific requirements when it comes to pruning, so it's important that you take them into account.
- For example, a pine tree has a main trunk that can be reduced to 25.4 cm of stump in order to produce a squat, more compact tree. The side branches at the top should be trimmed until they are 12.7 cm shorter than the top branch. Branches pointing down can be cut, decreasing them in ascending order, forming a completely pyramid-like shape.
- Branches on Douglas fir that are taller than 12.7 cm should not be cut because this puts the plants at greater risk for fungal infections.
Be sure to remove any diseased parts of the tree. In conifers with a disease problem, branches should be cut at a distance of 12.7 cm from the infected areas, taking care to cut only live wood.
- Gardeners must wait for dry weather to prune stunted trees because this will reduce the spread of pathogens. It's also important to clean and sterilize pruning shears with a household disinfectant before and after each use to help reduce the spread of disease. Use a rag to wipe the disinfectant off the pruners before using them again, as the disinfectant can damage the tree.
- Diseased parts of the tree should either be burned or left for local waste disposal crews. These branches should not go into the compost bin.
Consider hiring a professional company to trim the trees for you. If the evergreens in question are near power lines, it's best to hire a reputable tree trimmer rather than fix the problem yourself.
- Owners are encouraged to shop nearby and invite a few professionals to do the work they need to do before choosing a company to do the task for them.
- In this way, everyone will get the best deals and avoid unnecessary expenses and unnecessary procedures.
