Cleaning pit in a private house. Do-it-yourself cesspool - review and comparison of design options. Sealed storage systems

All the conveniences of human habitation are associated with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. Owners of “summer residences” - dachas, small country houses - are trying to equip their seasonal home with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the simplest task; almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is solved by installing boreholes or wells. The most difficult issue - the installation of a local sewerage system - also has a standard solution: a drainage pit is built on the site with your own hands.

A drainage pit in a private house or country house is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage waste. Household waste from toilets, kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers is transported here through sewer pipes.

No treatment facilities are provided in front of this simple sewage collection facility. As the pit fills, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the cleaning method, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewage trucks, or after treatment with biological products, it is used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drainage pits

Drain pits are classified according to ground level and materials of manufacture.

Relative to ground level

Based on this criterion, sewage waste collections are divided into two groups:

• superficial;
• underground.

Surface sewerage collectors

This option is only suitable for use in the warm season. It is used extremely rarely, since in this case the sewer network has to be laid on top. The required slope (from the “supplier” of wastewater – sink, toilet, etc. – to the collection tank) can only be ensured if all sources of wastewater are located above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to install surface drainage tanks in areas with high groundwater levels.

Underground drainage pits

Underground sewage collection structures are the most common. Depending on the amount of drainage, the design of the drainage pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary standards of Russia It is allowed to construct pits without sealing the bottom if the daily volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 m3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground tank is installed.

According to manufacturing materials

The following materials can be used to construct the drainage pit structure:

• ceramic brick;
• concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
• waste tractor tires;
• plastic;
• tree.

For constructing drainage pits with your own hands, concrete rings are the most unsuitable option. Their installation requires construction equipment - heavy products cannot be handled manually.

The easiest and cheapest way to arrange a drainage pit in a private house or on a summer cottage is to decorate its walls with the help of tires. But this design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage drains getting into the soil.

Location – sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do whatever they want on their property, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary services do not sleep - they require strict compliance with the rules and regulations in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drainage pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum permissible distances from the wastewater storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and site boundaries:

• to the water conduit (central) - 10 meters;
• to the underground gas pipeline – 5 meters;
• to the drinking well: 20 meters - on clay soils, 30 m - on loams, 50 m - on sandstones and sandy loams;
• to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
• to the fence (site boundary) – 1 meter.

The maximum depth of the drainage pit is also regulated: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that failure to comply with sanitary requirements may not only result in a fine; if harm is caused to the health of others, a criminal case may be filed.

In addition, when making a drainage hole at the dacha with your own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize unhindered access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping out.

Advice: Practice shows that it is better to place the drainage pit at a distance of at least 15 meters from the windows of residential premises.

Construction procedure

Installing a drainage pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is formed in sewer storage tanks. For his withdrawal ventilation is arranged. Its role is played by a pipe leading through the pit lid. Its dimensions are regulated by building codes: diameter - 100 mm, height - at least 600 mm from ground level.

Choosing a method for cleaning the drain pit

Before you build a drainage pit in a private house, you should decide a very important question: how will you clean it. The amount of work to improve the site depends on this:

• if it’s easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewer truck, take care of organizing an access road;
• If you are ready to do the cleaning yourself, purchase a plastic container with a sealed lid and find out in advance who will accept your waste. Don't forget about hand and respiratory protection. It would be better if it was a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator would do. Of course, you can't do without rubber boots.

Modern technologies can significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drainage pit if it fills quickly, or even make it virtually waste-free. We are talking about microscopic helpers - capable of turning wastewater into sufficiently clean water and a solid fraction suitable for use as fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drainage pit, but also diligently fight the unpleasant odor.

Just keep in mind when deciding how to clean a drainage pit in a private house that you should choose biological products in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria cannot withstand contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders have a detrimental effect on them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have done their work, all you have to do is use a pump to pump out the liquid component (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove the solid sediment from the pit.

As a result, the question of where to dispose of waste becomes acute. The simplest option is to install a cesspool; even a person who has never performed such work before can cope with this task. Therefore, you need to think in advance about how to properly make a sewer system, what materials are best to use for this, and take into account all the other nuances of this matter.

First of all, you need to find a good place where you can install a cesspool in a private house. You also need to familiarize yourself with the main types of such sewage systems and find out which one is best suited for your site.

Choosing a place for a cesspool

First of all, you need to select the area where the cesspool system will be made; there are two options:

1. Directly on a site adjacent to a residential premises or cottage.
2. Construction of a pit at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a private house and other buildings, as well as from neighboring houses.

Such distance requirements are not accidental; the fact is that with a closer construction of a cesspool system without pumping, possible damage to the foundation, as well as flooding of buildings.

There are other nuances that need to be taken into account:

• The distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated; it must be at least 1 meter;
• The depth of the pit should be less than 3 meters. It is also necessary to take into account the groundwater levels of the area;
• There must be a distance of at least 25 meters from the cesspool to the drinking wells.

The last requirement also largely depends on the type of soil on the site. If it is clayey, then the minimum distance to drinking sources is 20 meters, if it is loamy - 30 meters, and for sandy soil this distance should be at least 50 meters.

Types of cesspools

Today, all cesspools are divided into three types:

1. Absorbing (pits that have no bottom).
2. Sealed.
3. Septic tanks.

The simplest option would be to build a storage pit that has no bottom. This type has its positive sides. First of all, such a tank does not need very frequent pumping. Also, these pits are small, so a minimum of free space and money is spent on arrangement.

But this type also has disadvantages, among which the main one is the release of waste into the soil, which is harmful to the environment. In addition, such a pit will not be able to cope with a large amount of wastewater, so it is mainly installed in a dacha, where people do not live for the whole year.

Sealed tanks are considered cleaner, environmentally friendly and easier to use. The main disadvantage of this design is difficult maintenance. The owners have to constantly use the services of vacuum cleaners to pump out wastewater. With every year of use, you will have to call specialists more often.

If the volume of wastewater in the house is large enough, then you will also have to call the vacuum cleaners more often, because the water is pumped out of the tank, and the sludge remains at the bottom. This will lead to great inconvenience and waste of money.

Experts advise installing a sealed tank of the same volume as the tank of a sewer truck. This will prevent the pit from overflowing until the next time the drain is pumped out.

The most effective and reliable option is a septic tank, which you can also make yourself. This version of the cesspool performs not only the functions of accumulating, but also cleaning waste.

You can make both single-chamber and multi-chamber systems yourself. The easiest way to arrange and use single-chamber structures. This will be a kind of well, at the bottom of which there is a thick layer of crushed stone or broken brick; these materials perform the function of filtration.

This means that rough wastewater treatment occurs, after which the liquid passes into the soil, where, thanks to bacteria, it is also purified and clarified. As a result, the storage tank does not fill up as quickly, and some contaminants end up in the soil.

The most effective option is multi-chamber septic tanks; they purify the water so much that it can then be used for watering beds or other similar tasks. But the disadvantage is the high cost of installing such a treatment system.

Arrangement of a cesspool with your own hands

In order to choose the right type of cesspool to use in a suburban area, you need to accurately determine the location, calculate the daily amount of waste and pay attention to your material capabilities:

• If every day the amount of waste does not exceed 1 cubic meter, then the best option would be to build a simple pit without a bottom and without the need for regular pumping. In such a reservoir, the wastewater partially goes into the soil, where it is purified by anaerobic bacteria.

  Most rural and country toilets are made according to this principle;

• If the number of daily drains exceeds 1 cubic meter, then you can forget about options without pumping; you will have to equip a hermetic structure and regularly use the services of vacuum cleaners.

The fact is that bottomless structures allow waste to enter the soil, where special bacteria perform cleaning functions. But we must understand that the possibilities of these bacteria are not limitless.

With a large amount of wastewater, microorganisms simply cannot cope with their task. In such a situation, environmental pollution will begin, and waste can also get into aquifers and contaminate drinking water sources. If the amount of wastewater is very large, then there will be high costs for sewage systems; in this case, it is better to purchase or make a multi-chamber septic tank yourself.

Construction of a simple cesspool

If the amount of waste is small, then it is better not to overthink it; such a cesspool is made quite simply:

1. First you need to dig a hole, for this you do not need to use special equipment, an ordinary shovel will be enough, because the depth will be about 2 meters, the width will be the same, but the length will be 3 meters.
2. After this, it is necessary to lay the earth walls using special materials (concrete rings, car tires, etc.).
3. A layer of crushed stone should be poured onto the bottom of the pit.

1. The final stage of arranging a cesspool system will be the installation of a protective ceiling and cover.

This simple version of a cesspool has the following positive aspects:

• You can set up the system very quickly and easily without outside help;
• Materials for this type of cesspool system are inexpensive;
• Ease of operation;
• Does not require frequent pumping of wastewater.

True, there are also negative points:

• To install such a system, it is necessary that the groundwater level be below the level of the drainage system;
• The operation of this system is advisable if the amount of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter per day;
• The pit fills with sediment;
• Unpleasant odors appear.

Scheme

Today there are many options for simple cesspools that you can make yourself. Conventionally, such pits are divided into temporary and permanent, but the main criterion for classification is the material from which the place for drainage is made.

Car tires

If a cesspool is needed for a toilet in the country, and there is no desire to spend a lot of money on it, then you can put old car tires to good use. Building a pit from tires is quite simple, everything is done very quickly, and the cost of such a design will be low.

First, you need to dig a pit, and put tires on its bottom, one on top of the other. At the very bottom there should be a layer of crushed stone. It is better to treat the joints between rubber tires with clay to seal them.

The advantages of this scheme:

• If necessary, the structure can be easily restored;
• Long service life;
• Low cost of materials, quick and easy construction.

Negative sides:

• Over time, such material begins to rot;
• If the load on the cesspool is too large, this will lead to pollution;
• The cesspool system quickly silts up, so periodic pumping is still necessary.

Concrete rings

This option also allows you to quickly and effectively deal with sewer problems. In appearance, such a pit will resemble a well. The rings, like the tires in the previous scheme, are installed one on top of the other. Experts advise sealing the joints between concrete rings with cement screed.

If we recall the classification, then in its type the structure of concrete rings is more similar to sealed cesspool systems. Therefore, there is a need to regularly call vacuum cleaners. But you can also build a homemade septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

• A ceiling with a hatch is very easy to make;
• The cesspool will work for several decades;
• You can do everything yourself, without masters;
• Low cost of materials.

Main disadvantages:

• Unpleasant odors may appear from the ventilation duct;
• The operation of the pit requires regular pumping;
• It is quite difficult to install rings in a pit without special equipment.

Brick

Many experts call brick the best material for constructing cesspools; it is ideal for installing in a toilet or for draining wastewater from a sauna.

Advantages of brick systems:

• Every home owner can handle the masonry, so building a pit will not bring problems;
• The design does not harm the environment and does not pollute the soil.

Negative sides:

• To prevent siltation of the system, it is necessary to constantly use the services of sewer trucks;
• Under such operating conditions, the brick quickly deteriorates, so the service life of a cesspool rarely exceeds 20 years;
• Unpleasant odors may appear. But this drawback can be eliminated by adding special bacteria that accelerate the process of waste decomposition.

Construction of a brick cesspool system

The scheme of work is as follows:

The initial stage of the work will be the selection of a site for the pit. In this case, it is necessary to comply with all the recommendations of specialists, and do everything so that the use of the pit is convenient.

After this, you need to choose one of the design options. They are distinguished by shape; there are rectangular, round and square types. Next, the required volume is calculated, and you can begin to dig a hole for the cesspool system.

In the traditional version, it is advised to tilt it in the direction where the hatch will be located, pour sand into the bottom of the pit and fill it with cement. Concrete slabs can also be used. But if you need a pit without pumping, then you need to pour crushed stone at the bottom.

After this, the walls are laid. Masters believe that the optimal thickness would be 30 centimeters. They also advise doing the masonry in a checkerboard fashion, using halves of bricks. In some situations, a quarter of a brick is also used for masonry.

When the walls are already standing, they need to be covered with bitumen mastic or a clay castle made for better sealing. If necessary, the inner surface can be plastered.

Cesspool from a barrel

This version of the cesspool can be made independently; it does not require regular pumping. But it is worth noting that a barrel cesspool system can only work with a small amount of wastewater (up to 1 cubic meter per day).

Phased arrangement:

1. First of all, you need to prepare a barrel with a volume of 200 liters. It is better to use materials that are not susceptible to rust. Holes must be made in the walls of the container; they will serve as drainage. You need to make holes using a checkerboard system; for this you can use a drill or grinder. The distance between the holes should be 15-20 centimeters.
2. We tightly attach a pipe to the bottom of the tank; it will help install the drain pipe. To make the structure truly airtight, it is better to use silicone materials. The place where the pipe is installed should also be treated with mastic.
3. The container must be wrapped in geotextile and secured with twine. This will help protect the cesspool from soil and other solid elements getting inside, but at the same time will not harm the drainage process.

Installing a cesspool from a barrel is done as follows:

• First, a trench is dug and a sewer pipeline is laid (necessarily with a slope);
• Next, you need to dig a hole, which in size will be slightly larger than the size of the barrel;
• A layer of gravel or crushed stone (about 20-25 centimeters) is poured onto the bottom of the pit;
• A ready-made barrel is installed on this cushion and a drain pipe is connected;
• The space that remains between the walls of the pit and the barrel must also be filled with crushed stone;
• At the end, the sewer pipe must be connected to the pipe.

Using this method, you can equip a drainage pit for different purposes. In particular, it is suitable for draining wastewater from a bathhouse or sauna, as well as for a toilet.

Concrete drainage pit

Concrete is a material known for its strength and ability to withstand harsh conditions. Therefore, it is also used quite often for arranging a cesspool system. You can make a pit from such material as follows:

• First, it is necessary to determine the volume of the system;
• After this, dig a hole taking into account the required dimensions;
• Formwork is installed around the perimeter of the pit and filled with concrete mortar;
• It is recommended to cover the outer part of the walls with bitumen, this will provide waterproofing;
• Drainage material is poured into the bottom of the hole (gravel, crushed stone or even broken brick can be used);

• Roofing material or film (for waterproofing) is laid on the walls of the prepared pit. In addition, it is necessary to install a ceiling with a hatch and make a hole for connecting a sewer pipe;
• The final stage of the work will be connecting the sewer pipe to the cesspool.

This technology is also considered universal; it is suitable for both a bathhouse and a toilet.

Video

If there is no centralized sewage system nearby, then as an effective solution to the problem, we suggest you learn how to make a cesspool with your own hands.

In any country house or dacha where there is a toilet and a hot and cold water supply, there is a need for the collection and disposal of sewage. And below we will consider the most important points when arranging a cesspool:

	Choosing a location for a cesspool in a private house.
	Construction of different types of cesspools with your own hands.
	What materials may be useful in your work.

A cesspool is the simplest sewerage option in a private house or country house, which you can implement with your own hands.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you came from our website “Remontik”.

Where should a cesspool be located in a private house?

First of all, you must choose a place for the cesspool, being guided by the following requirements:

• the pit must be located in an area adjacent to a dacha or private house;

• It is allowed to install a cesspool no closer than 10 m from the foundation of the house and other structures on the site and to structures located on neighboring sites.

Attention! This requirement is, first of all, explained by the fact that if the cesspool is located close to each other, the foundations of nearby buildings and structures may collapse and flooding may occur:

• the distance from the cesspool to the fence is regulated and must be at least one meter;

• the depth should in no case be more than 3 meters (when choosing it, you must take into account the depth of groundwater);

• the pit must be located at a certain distance from drinking wells (25 meters).

This distance directly depends on the type of soil on the land:

• For sandy loam and sandy soil, the cesspool should not be located closer than 50 meters from the well.
• If clay soil predominates, at least 20 meters.
• For loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands? Main types

Today, there are two options for arranging a cesspool:

• sealed cesspool;

• an ordinary cesspool without a bottom (drainage).

In this type of drainage pit, wastewater goes into the ground, where it is purified by anaerobic bacteria. A striking example of such a cesspool would be an ordinary village toilet.

• If there is a large daily volume of wastewater (more than 1 m3), you will need to install a sealed pit, which needs to be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is directly related to the fact that the presence of a bottom in a cesspool, water goes into the ground and its purification is carried out by microorganisms that live in the thickness of the soil. However, their capabilities during processing are limited.

With large volumes of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with their purification. In this case, the wastewater will pollute the adjacent soil and it is possible that it will enter the water-bearing layers of the soil with further contamination of drinking water.

If it is necessary to dispose of a large volume of wastewater, you may want to think about installing a septic tank with filtration fields.

How to make a regular cesspool with your own hands

A simple cesspool is very easy to make:

• A hole is dug 2 m wide, up to 2 m deep and 2.3-3 m long.

• Soil walls are laid or strengthened.

• A layer of crushed stone is placed on the bottom.

• A protective ceiling with a hatch is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

• simple and quick installation;
• low cost of operation and construction;
• simplicity and ease of use.

Some disadvantages of a drainage pit:

• unsuitable for using large volumes of wastewater;
• environmentally hazardous;
• spreads an unpleasant odor;
• unscheduled overflow is possible due to rain or melt water;
• The groundwater level may be below the level of the cesspool.

How to make a sealed cesspool with your own hands

A sealed storage tank (cesspool) is a sealed container into which wastewater flows through pipes. As the container fills, wastewater must be pumped out using a sewer truck.

The main advantages of a sealed pit:

• does not depend on groundwater level;
• environmentally friendly, since wastewater does not enter the environment;
• the location of the pit does not depend on the types of soil on the land plot.

Main disadvantages:

• high construction costs;
• monthly operating costs (you have to regularly call a sewer truck, on average 2-4 times a month);
• a smell is possible if the storage tank is made in the form of a well.

Calculation of the size of the cesspool

V pits = number of days x number of people x V people x 0.001, where:

V pit – working volume of the cesspool, calculated in cubic meters;

number of days – frequency of calling a sewer truck to clean the pit;

V person is the water norm for one person per day, measured in liters. Accepted 100-200 liters per person.

A family of 5 people lives in the house, and you are going to order a sewer truck once every two weeks. We accept V people - 150 liters per person per day.

As a result, the required volume of the drainage pit is:

V pit = 14x5x150x 0.001 = 10500 liters, or 10.5 m3.

What materials can be used for a cesspool

Let's consider different options and types of cesspool designs that you can build with your own hands. It’s worth saying right away that they are all divided into permanent and temporary.

1. Tires.

If you need a cesspool for a toilet at minimal cost, we recommend building it yourself, using old car tires.

This is a quick and cheap option for constructing a drainage pit. It has a simple design. First, a pit is prepared where the tires are laid (one on top of the other). Crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the pit; if necessary, additional sealing of the tires can be done with a clay lock.

Advantages:

• simplicity, low cost and fast speed of construction;
• durability;
• easily restored if necessary.

Flaws:

• tires rot;
• rapid filling with irregular cleaning, as a result of which you will lose useful volume;
• with a large load on the pit, it negatively affects the environment.

1. Concrete rings.

We suggest considering the possibility of constructing a cesspool using concrete rings.

This is another good option for quickly building a cesspool. In structure it resembles a well. Concrete rings are stacked on top of each other. If desired, the joints between the rings are sealed using a concrete screed.

According to the principle of operation, a pit made of concrete rings is more likely to be a sealed type of cesspool, so it needs to be emptied in a timely manner. Although it is possible to build a septic tank from concrete rings.

Advantages:

• relatively low cost;
• durability;
• ease of construction of a protective cover with a hatch;
• the possibility of constructing a cesspool with your own hands.

Flaws:

• the need for regular bowel movements;
• high labor intensity of work;
• the possibility of an unpleasant odor forming from the ventilation pipe.

1. Brick.

A brick drainage pit is a successful and optimal solution if you need a drainage pit for a bathhouse or a pit for a toilet.

Advantages:

• ease of construction - any summer resident can cope with brickwork;
• economic security - the contents of the pit require regular removal by a sewer truck or can be cleaned directly on site.

Flaws:

• an unpleasant odor occurs periodically (you can cope with this problem by regularly cleaning the drive and using drugs that accelerate the decomposition of biological waste);
• short service life (about 15 years), as a result of degradation of the brickwork in the unfavorable conditions of the pit;
• flooding (flooding can be avoided by regularly pumping out the liquid that collects in the storage tank).

How to make a brick cesspool with your own hands: description of the main stages

First of all, decide where the cesspool will be located, taking into account compliance with all requirements and ease of use.

Then decide on the design. A brick cesspool, depending on its purpose, can have square, round or rectangular masonry.

We calculate the volume, determine the dimensions and prepare the foundation pit.

In the case of a rectangular pit, we slope the bottom towards the location of the hatch. We lay a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick at the bottom, after which we fill it with concrete mortar. You can also use a ready-made concrete slab of the required dimensions. A screed of cement mortar is made on top.

We carry out laying of walls, the thickness of which should be at least 25 cm. It is best to lay half-brick walls in a checkerboard pattern. Quarter brick masonry is also acceptable.

Once the walls are ready, you need to build a clay castle on the outside or cover them with bitumen mastic for a more reliable seal.

Plastering the internal surface (if necessary). For plastering, you can use a solution of sand and cement in a ratio of 2 to 1.

Installation of covering and hatch. When the base of the pit is ready, we install its ceiling with a hatch. It should be no less than half a meter overlapping the pit on different sides.

It can use tightly packed logs or reinforced concrete slabs as a floor. When installing a ceiling, it is necessary to provide in advance a place for a hatch, the diameter of which should be 0.7 m.

On top of the coating, waterproofing is made of polyethylene film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil 40 cm thick.

Attention! In order to prevent the spread of smell from the pit, as well as its freezing, the hatch is made double. The top cover should be level with the ground, and the other at the ceiling level. You can fill the space between the covers with heat-insulating material (slag, expanded clay, polystyrene foam, etc.).

• Barrel.

A drainage pit made from a barrel is an excellent option for arranging a sewer system with your own hands. It can provide natural wastewater treatment in case of small volumes of wastewater (up to 1 m3).

• Take a 200 liter barrel made of non-corrosion material, make the side walls in a checkerboard pattern using a drill or grinder. These will be the drainage holes. They are recommended to be done in increments of 10 cm.

• We prepare and attach a pipe to the bottom of the barrel to secure the drain pipe. To ensure a high seal, use silicone sealants. Cover the connection point of the pipe with bitumen mastic.

• We wrap the barrel on different sides with geotextiles and secure it with non-heating twine. This is necessary to ensure high-quality protection of the barrel from the penetration of foreign particles and soil into its container while maintaining drainage efficiency.

Preparing a pit for a barrel and installing a sewerage system:

• dig a trench and lay sewer pipes there with a slope;

When building a summer house or country cottage, arranging a sewer system is a top priority. A cesspool in a private house is designed according to the standard standards described in SNiP and SanPin.

Cesspools are classified according to the material from which they are made, design and operating principle.

Based on the material, the following types can be distinguished:

1. Plastic. They are equipped from professional plastic tanks. The volume of the pit is up to 1 cubic meter, then the use of a polypropylene barrel is allowed;
2. Metal. Similar to plastic ones, they are built from ready-made metal tanks;

   

3. Concrete. These are cesspools made of concrete rings. This design is durable and easy to maintain. Concrete is resistant to the effects of feces and aggressive liquids that flow into the drain;

   

4. From tires. One of the “handicraft” ways of arranging a cesspool. To create a cesspool from car tires, tires from cars and trucks are used. They are connected to each other using bolts;

   

5. Brick. Excellent for arranging large-volume cesspools. Completely sealed. Ceramic building materials tolerate long-term contact with water and are not susceptible to deformation under the influence of earth masses.

   

By design, cesspools are classified as:

1. Closed. Completely sealed structures. They consist of a closed bottom and strong walls. Such containers are environmentally friendly and suitable for installation in small areas;
2. Open or leaking. According to the rules of Sanitary Control, such a device is allowed only if the total volume of wastewater per day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. These pits have no bottom and some of the waste goes into the soil and groundwater. This allows for cesspool cleaning to be carried out less frequently than with closed tanks, but poses a threat to the environment.

According to the principle of operation, all cesspools are divided into single-chamber, multi-chamber and septic tanks. Single-chamber - standard structures consisting of one compartment. It is both a draft drain and a settling basin. This is the simplest option for installing a drain, but it requires regular cleaning. The wastewater is simply stored in it for a certain period of time until it is cleaned by the sewage system.

Multi-chamber – cesspools consisting of several compartments. The standard scheme is a connection of single-chamber tanks with pipes. Waste from home or other consumer points is dumped into one, and pre-treated waste flows into the second. The wastewater remains in the settling tank for several days, after which it is further purified and discharged outside the site.

Septic tanks are professional multi-chamber devices. They consist of tanks separated by pipes and filters, pumps pumping wastewater at a certain speed and treatment facilities (biological filters). The main advantage of using a septic tank for a cesspool is its efficiency. It is not just a liquid reservoir, but also a purifier. Many owners subsequently use settled water for technical needs.

Calculation of the required volume of the pit and its geometric dimensions

The volume and geometric dimensions of a cesspool in a private house depend on the number of consumers living and connected to the sewer. It is generally believed that 1 adult consumes 0.5 cubic meters of water per day. The child, accordingly, is half as much - 0.25.

The formula used for calculation is:

V*n=Vya, where V is the daily volume consumed by one person, n is the number of residents, and Vya is the required volume of the cesspool. For example, if there are three adults and 1 child living in a house, the formula will look like this:

0.5*3+0.25*1=1.75 m3. The resulting values ​​are always rounded up. In our case, this is 2 cubic meters. From the obtained values, the required dimensions are determined.

Rules for choosing the depth and diameter of a pit:

1. The minimum drainage depth must be at least 2 meters. 1 meter is allocated for the release of gases and freezing of the soil;
   2. Maximum depth – no more than 3.5 meters. Most vacuum cleaners are equipped with hoses that are 3 meters long. Exceeding this indicator will significantly complicate the processes of cleaning wastewater from silt and solid accumulations;
2. The width depends on the selected depth and the standard dimensions of the materials chosen for the construction of the drain.

Location on the site

A closed cesspool is more often used in a private residential house, because it can be placed much closer to the living space than an open one. All requirements for choosing a location are described in detail in “Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements”, decree 360-92 (Ukraine) and SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 (Russia).

Primary requirements:

1. The distance from a residential building is at least 20 meters. A distance of 15 meters is allowed from non-residential premises. It is separately indicated that if the basement exceeds the area of ​​the house, then the countdown begins from the wall of the underground building;
2. You should retreat from a reservoir or well from 30 meters (closed pit) to 50 (open type reservoir);
3. A distance of 2–4 meters is maintained from the road and the fence;
4. According to the rules of good neighborliness, a cesspool must be separated from the neighboring plot by at least 10 meters.

In some cases, it is also indicated that the waste tank must be at least 5 meters away from the garden or garden. It must be remembered that failure to comply with these requirements entails administrative liability.

Installation of a cesspool

The arrangement of a cesspool is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparing the pit;
2. Tank installation;
3. Connecting sewer pipes;
4. Backfilling the drain.

In the selected location of the site, a place for the future cesspool is planned. The pit is dug using special construction equipment or manually. Its diameter should slightly exceed the dimensions of the tank for arranging a cesspool. This will allow the container to be more thoroughly sealed and insulated.

Regardless of the type of pit construction chosen, the bottom of the pit must be strengthened with crushed stone and a sand cushion. The first layer of sifted river sand is poured, after it - fine crushed stone and then - coarse stones. The walls of the pit are covered with waterproofing material. In cold regions, textiles or agrofibre are also installed on top of the waterproofing to protect against soil freezing.

Every owner of a country house is faced with the issue of organizing the disposal of sewage and waste.

It is impossible to install a sewer system here, as in urban conditions. The best solution would be a cesspool.

Previously, to construct a cesspool, people dug a large well, the bottom and walls of which were lined with a thick layer of clay, which protected the soil and groundwater from mixing with wastewater.

But, you see, we are talking about a rather labor-intensive process.

Today no one uses this method of sewerage arrangement.

There are new technologies that make the task easier and more efficient.

It cannot be said that the cesspool is installed in the place where the owner of the house wishes. When deciding where to dig a cesspool, you must be guided by special documents and sanitary standards, and they say the following:

• the distance from the cesspool to a residential building should not be less than 12 meters;
• the distance from the cesspool to the fence should be more than 1 meter;
• the distance from the cesspool to wells or wells with drinking water cannot be less than 5 meters.

But these are not all the points that should be taken into account when choosing a suitable place. You need to understand that you cannot place a hole near a garden or vegetable garden. It is also necessary to provide easy access to it so that a vehicle can drive up to pump out the contents.

How to calculate the volume of a cesspool

In order for you not to have to call a sewer truck too often to clean the cesspool, you need to correctly calculate its optimal volume. It will depend on the number of people living in the house. For a family of 3-4 people, the average monthly runoff volume is usually 12-13 cubic meters. Based on this, it can be determined that for such a number of people the minimum volume of a cesspool should be 18-20 cubic meters. Simply put, the minimum reserve volume of a cesspool is 40% of the monthly flow. But such a reserve can be made only in cases where the soil allows water to pass through well. If your summer cottage has clay soil, the reserve volume of the pit should be larger.

Materials for cesspool

There are several types of materials that are used to construct cesspools, preventing wastewater from entering the soil and groundwater. From these you will need to choose the most suitable one:

• brick, concrete blocks, stone - today they are used very rarely, because installation requires a lot of labor and a lot of time;
• reinforced concrete rings - they are often used in the construction of cesspools;
• metal and plastic barrels - their average volume is 200 liters. This wave is enough for a small family. Plastic containers are more in demand because they do not corrode.

DIY cesspool in a private house

Each person decides independently what material to use for arranging a cesspool, first assessing the durability of the future structure, as well as financial costs and ease of installation.

Cesspool made of concrete rings: diagram and design

Concrete rings are quite popular today among owners of private country houses . This is not surprising, because they have many significant advantages over other methods:

• durability of the structure - the service life of such products reaches 100 years;
• concrete withstands the fermentation and decay processes that constantly occur in a cesspool and are dangerous for the soil;
• ease of installation of the structure, which makes it possible to reduce the time spent on arranging a cesspool;
• effective protection of soil and groundwater from pollution.

Considering the high popularity of concrete rings, let’s take a closer look at their use in sewerage installations.

The rings themselves are products made of high-strength concrete. Inside they are a reinforcing metal mesh, providing additional strength. The good thing about rings is that through them water will definitely not be able to penetrate into the soil and groundwater, contributing to their pollution. The only point that you should pay attention to when arranging such a cesspool is the joints between the concrete rings. They must be well treated with a special water-repellent cement mortar.

As for the disadvantages, in this case there is only one - the large weight of the products obliges you to resort to the help of special equipment. But, if you look at this need from the other side, then on the contrary, by using special equipment, you can get the job done much faster.

Important! When considering the construction of a cesspool in a private house, special attention should be paid to its bottom so that wastewater cannot enter the groundwater through it. You can arrange the bottom in one of the following ways:

• prepare the bottom of the hole by filling it with sand, gravel or crushed stone. Next, install a special frame made of metal reinforcement, and then fill the bottom with concrete mortar to a height of 20-25 cm. This method is quite cheap. But its disadvantage is that the concrete solution will take quite a long time to dry completely;
• buy a ready-made bottom - it is made in the same factories as the concrete rings themselves. Accordingly, the cost of this method of arranging the bottom of the pit will be higher, and installation will have to be carried out using special equipment. The advantages include the minimum amount of time required to solve this problem.

Now we will consider in detail the installation of a cesspool made of concrete rings. The work is not particularly difficult, but must be performed in strict accordance with existing technology:

1. you need to dig a hole corresponding in volume to the number of people living in the house, and in diameter - in accordance with the size of the concrete rings;
2. You can start arranging the bottom. If you prefer cement mortar, then you should take care of its proper preparation. The ratio of cement and crushed stone will be 1:6. The solution will take a week to harden. If you are building a cesspool in the summer, the concrete should be periodically moistened with water. This way you can prevent the appearance of cracks on its surface;
3. lowering the rings. This is done using a special crane, because the products are heavy. After you lower the first ring into the hole, immediately seal its joint with the bottom. This is best done using liquid glass, which is added to the cement mortar. After the mixture is well mixed, it can be used to treat the seams. Note! If there is a high groundwater level in the area, it is better to treat the seams not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the structure. This way you will be completely sure that wastewater will not get into the ground. After lowering the next ring, its joint with the previous one should be processed in the same way. It is best to use concrete rings with a special “lock”, which will ensure their strong fastening. If this is not the case, then the products must be fastened with metal staples;
4. the final stage is the installation of the well cover, which can be purchased at the same factory where the rings are made. The cover is mounted using a tap. It is equipped with a special hatch and ventilation holes.

We looked at how to make a cesspool from concrete rings - there is nothing complicated here, the work can be done with your own hands, without the help of specialists.

In addition to the main workflow, there will be some other points that may raise questions for you. For example, in which part of the cesspool should the drain pipe be connected, and how to do this so that the sewage system works properly. To get an answer to your question, study diagram of a cesspool in a private house, located above. A thematic video is also offered here, which shows each stage of installation and arrangement of the structure. Some people draw up cesspool plans on their own, using previously studied information.

Sealed cesspool: diagram and device

There is another method of arranging a cesspool. It is considered the simplest and quite affordable. We are talking about special containers - plastic tanks, which are produced by factories in finished form. They have some advantages over concrete rings:

• light weight;
• ease of installation;
• tightness.

To equip a cesspool in this way, you do not need to perform many labor-intensive steps. You just need to dig a hole of the required volume and shape so that the tank can be placed there, then prepare it for installation by arranging a special concrete pad. Its surface must be smooth. Next, the pillow will need to be covered with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, after which you can begin lowering the plastic container into the hole. Once the tank is installed, all that remains is to connect the waste pipes. After this, the pit is filled with a concrete-sand mixture (1:5), the top layer is made of soil. The cesspool is ready for use.

We looked at several options for how to make a cesspool with your own hands. To choose one that is most suitable, you need to first evaluate your financial capabilities, as well as your skills, if you do not resort to the help of professionals. Of course, setting up a cesspool using a plastic tank will be the simplest, which is why most owners of country houses give their preference to this option.