All about growing kiwi at home. How to grow kiwi to get your own crop? Landing in a permanent place

Kiwi varieties have been developed that grow well in temperate climates and withstand frosts up to 30 degrees. Therefore, more and more gardeners are planting kiwi fruit in their backyards. The best time to plant kiwi fruit is spring and summer.

Summer planting of actinidia involves mandatory shading and abundant watering throughout the growing season. But plants that have not reached the age of 3 years can be plant in autumn before the onset of cold weather, usually September-October. It is important that the kiwifruit in the open field take root before frost, then the seedling will winter well.

Kiwis are planted in such a way that there are at least 1 male for every 10 female plants. Actinidia varieties are dioecious, that is, they do not need a pollinator, they grow normally and bear fruit in a single copy.

Kiwi is grown on acid soil. Clay dry soil is not suitable for actinidia, but groundwater is not desirable in close proximity to the root system. We previously wrote about .

Kiwi is a vigorous plant, in a few years liana grows up to 20 m. From each bush, with good care during the period of full fruiting, a crop of up to one hundred kilograms is obtained. Therefore, there is no way to do without support.

It can be a wall, a fence, metal, wooden support structures or a special trellis, gazebo, pergola. The main thing is that the support can withstand the weight of branches and fruits.

Kiwi planting

• The depth of the pits or grooves for actinidia seedlings is the bayonet of a shovel. The width is 30 cm.
• At the bottom of the pit, pour a layer of vermiculite, crushed stones, bricks or expanded clay, as the plant does not tolerate standing water.
• Sprinkle the seedling with earth without tamping.
• Water generously.
• Mulch with sawdust.
• Protect the plant with a cut-off 5 liter plastic bottle or agrofibre mesh.
• Drive 3 guide pegs around the perimeter of the pit. On them kiwi will trail.

The distance between seedlings is maintained in the range from 1.5 to 2.5 m. Until the plant takes root, it protect from direct sunlight. To ensure the proper development of the plant, it is planted in fertile soil with humus and wood ash, and mineral fertilizers are also added - superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. It is not allowed to use chlorine-containing fertilizers for feeding actinidia.

Kiwi Care

The kiwi root system is superficial, so weeding and digging the earth around the kiwi seedling is highly undesirable. Mulching near-stem circle of actinidia is a must!

Fertilizers are best applied in liquid form or scattered under a layer of mulch. Actinidia not drought tolerant plant. For the first few years, garden kiwis are regularly and plentifully watered.

Frost-resistant varieties of actinidia

1. Actinidia kolomikta- the most frost-resistant variety. It grows like a liana, twisting around a support, or as a stunted shrub.
2. Actinidia argument differs in large sizes. The length of its trunk reaches 25 m.
3. Actinidia polygamist- the most valuable medicinal plant. In terms of vitamin C content, it is far superior to known plants.
4. Karpat Straton Valentine is a new variety of frost-resistant kiwi, bred by Ukrainian breeder Heinrich Straton.

Bloom

In April - June (depending on the variety), actinidia is covered with creamy white or pink flowers with a wonderful aroma. Abundant flowering lasts 2-3 weeks. Female and male plants differ in the structure of inflorescences. Male inflorescences are characterized by the presence of yellow anthers (actinidia kolomikta and polygamum) and black (argut) color.

Pollination occurs with the help of wind, as well as insects - bumblebees or bees. Pollination of dioecious varieties is possible only if the male and female vines are of the same variety.

After flowering is completed, the female flowers form an ovary. The fruits are harvested in August-September. They have an oblong shape, yellow-green or light orange color and a pleasant pineapple smell. The skin of the fruit is smooth or pubescent.

Formation

Actinidia can and should be formed. Here are a few options for liana palmettes. Formation will take several years.

top dressing

Fertilizers are applied to the soil according to a certain scheme.

autumn:

• humus - 2-3 kg / sq.m;
• superphosphate - 40-50 g / sq.m;
• potassium salt - 10-15 g / sq.m.

spring: ammonium nitrate - 20-30 g / sq.m

In hot weather, plants need to be watered regularly. The top layer is periodically loosened, mixed with sawdust and peat.

reproduction

Actinidia is propagated cuttings, seeds and root cuttings. The fastest way is rooting cuttings. In early spring, before the start of sap flow, cuttings up to 30 cm long are cut out and placed in a nutrient substrate for several buds. Then watered and covered with polyethylene.

When 3 leaves appear, the plant is gradually accustomed to life without a greenhouse, and then taken out to the street or balcony. In August, a rooted and strengthened cutting can be planted in open ground.

Kiwi seeds are soaked in hot water for a day (in a thermos). Sowed to a depth of 1 cm. Top can be sprinkled with sand. They build a greenhouse from polyethylene or a jar and put it in a warm, bright place for germination. We stock up on patience - the seeds will sprout in 3 months. And the fruits will appear at best in 6 years.

Preparing for winter

In autumn, unviable shoots are removed, young shoots are covered with spruce branches or peat. Mature plants endure winter weather without shelter, tied to trellises. The root system is carefully insulated with peat or humus.

Instruction

There are two growing options: from a kiwi fruit seed bought in a store, or from a nursery bought. The first method will allow you to get a plant, but you are unlikely to get fruits from it. This is due to the fact that kiwi is tropical, which is dioecious. That is, she has male and female plants. It is very difficult to distinguish the sex of a creeper by flowers. Here you need to be experienced botanists. But it may happen that you are lucky, and heterosexual plants will grow from those that sprout. It is better, of course, to buy cuttings of cultivated plants grown in your climate. They are guaranteed to bloom and bear fruit.

Let's start with seeds. Shop for the ripest, tastiest kiwi fruits in the store. They should be even, soft, without flaws, in a word, the best representatives of their variety. Remove the seeds, and eat the pulp so that it does not disappear. Now they need to be washed and dried by laying them on a layer of toilet paper. Then prepare sterilized sand (unlike soil, it can be boiled), mix with seeds and refrigerate in the chilled meat area for a couple of weeks to stratify the seeds.

After two weeks, the seeds with sand should be shed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and mixed with sterile soil. Sterility will avoid the defeat of young shoots by mold fungi. You can take the soil ready, intended for tropical vines (passiflora) and hold it in a water bath for 2 hours. After that, take a container with holes in the bottom, put a small 4-5 cm layer of earth and sow kiwi seeds. Sprinkle them with earth and put them on the window in a warm place.

Kiwi seeds sprout quickly and very amicably. Now the main thing is not to let the earth dry out. Moisten the seeds through the tray.

When the plants reach 10-12 cm, it will be time to transplant them into separate containers, otherwise they will slow down in development. Since the roots of kiwi are located in the upper layer of the earth, it is better to choose wide, shallow pots. In the summer, take them out to the balcony, or rather, take them to the dacha, let them gain strength. These fruit vines do not really like the bright sun, so put them in partial shade.

If your geographical area has a warm climate, then vines can be planted in open ground. Kiwi seedlings form a trunk and crown, like grapes. First, a stem 60 cm long is left, and a crown of 4-5 skeletal branches is formed from it, on which fresh shoots will constantly grow. It will have to be harvested throughout the growing season. Kiwis are very fond of watering and spraying. They do not get sick with anything, therefore, they do not need to be sprayed with various solutions. However, they are demanding on fertilizers. For season 1, an adult plant "eats" 100-120 kg of rotted manure. But it will delight you with delicious fruits. Do not forget that kiwis are dioecious, so plant one male for 5-6 female plants. If you have grown a lot of male plants, then you can graft buds from female ones on them, they will grow and begin to bear fruit.

Whichever way you choose, any experience will be useful to you. Who knows, maybe starting with kiwi, you will plant a real tropical garden at home or in the country?

Kiwis are very tasty. Most people agree that they taste like a combination of strawberries, bananas and melons. They also look unique. I love how their bright green flesh and tiny black edible seeds contrast with their fuzzy brown skin. But what if the kiwi plant does not bloom? If there are no flowers, there will be no fruit on your kiwi vine. Read on to find out more.

When is the kiwi flower made?

Kiwi fruits grow on vigorous vines that require a strong support structure. You can grow them on a sturdy pergola, trellis, or fence. Each vine can grow 15 feet in length. Most kiwi plants are specifically male or female. You need both to produce fruit. One male plant can fertilize up to eight female plants. There are many varieties. Some of them are self-fertile varieties. In this case, you only need one plant, which saves space. Check with your local nursery and see if they can order the variety(s) you prefer.

But of course, in order to get fruit, you must have a flowering kiwi vine. So when do kiwis bloom? They flower in spring and bear fruit in summer or autumn. If your kiwi is not blooming, you need to find out why.

How to get a kiwi plant to bloom

Age- If your kiwi is not blooming, it could be due to a number of reasons. Kiwi plants need to reach a certain maturity before they can grow flowers and fruits. Typically, this takes three years. Sometimes it takes longer.

temperature- Kiwis, like many other fruit bearing plants, require a certain number of hours of winter cold (between 32 and 45°F or 0°C and 7°C) to establish flowers and fruits. The number of hours depends on the variety. Make sure you buy kiwi vines that suit your climate. Check with your local nursery before you buy. Note that temperatures above 60°F (15°C) are deducted from the total refrigeration hours. Winter heatwaves can reduce total cold hours below the threshold required for kiwi fruit to bloom.

bad location- If your kiwi vines are ripe and getting enough cold hours, you're probably still wondering how to get kiwi plants to bloom. Make sure you install them in the correct location. Kiwi plants require full sun and appreciate daytime shade in hot places. They also need decently rich soil, regular water, and good drainage. If your kiwi is not blooming, it could be due to lack of sunlight, excessively dry soil, waterlogged soil, or a lack of nutrients in the soil. Reverse these situations if your kiwi fruit isn't blooming by adding annual compost, adjusting irrigation, or if you need to, planting the vine in a sunnier location.

Good luck growing your kiwi vine. These are beautiful plants and their fruits are worth the wait.

Almost all flower growers, striving to improve their own skills, at one point decide to grow fruit-bearing crops, such as citrus fruits, coffee or creepers. And many are interested in whether it is possible to start growing kiwi at home. In reality, this is quite possible, but certain requirements must be observed in the process.

Kiwi is a fruit-bearing vine, also known as the Chinese gooseberry. And in order for this culture to begin to bear fruit, you need to simultaneously grow two varieties of plants - male (required for pollination) and female. If you plan to grow from seeds, then get ready for the fact that you have to wait for the flowering period, because that's when you can determine the sex of the vine. In most cases, kiwi blooms in the sixth year of life.

So, the growing process is simple, but you will have to be careful, caring and patient.

You can grow kiwi:

• cuttings;
• seeds;
• adventitious root buds.

All methods have their own nuances, advantages and disadvantages, which we will get acquainted with a little later. However, there are a number of general rules that apply to kiwi breeding.

Kiwi is a distant relative of grapes, and therefore a similar cultivation technology is used here. The described culture is warm and photophilous, so it must be placed in a well-lit place (preferably without drafts). It should be remembered that the direct rays of the sun can lead to foliage burns, therefore, the light should fall from the side. An even better option is artificial lighting directed vertically.

In the process of development, the pots should be periodically scrolled clockwise (10-15 ° every two weeks). This will provide the plants with a straight silhouette, and the crown will turn out to be thick and uniform.

Note! There are many varieties of kiwi, but, characteristically, almost all of them are suitable for growing at home.

It should also be remembered that kiwi is a dioecious crop, and therefore one male and at least two or three female plants are required for normal fruiting. If kiwi is grown from seeds, then approximately 80 percent of the seedlings come out male, so there should be as many of them as possible.

Now let's take a look at the actual workflow.

Kiwi - growing at home

It is better to start growing kiwi in early spring, because then the highest germination of seeds is observed. This is a very important point, so do not delay sowing. Also consider the fact that kiwi naturally grows in regions with long and warm summers, so the conditions for the plant should be as comfortable as possible.

Traditionally, the process begins with the preparation of everything you need.

Stage one. We prepare everything you need

To grow vines, you must prepare:

The "shop" soil can be replaced with a soil mixture prepared by oneself, consisting of peat, sand and black soil (in equal proportions). By the way, when you dive seedlings into pots, this soil mixture is also well suited, only there should be less peat in it.

Stage two. We prepare the seeds

Take a ripe fruit and cut it in half. You can eat one part, and extract about 20 grains from the other. Cleanse the grains from the pulp (otherwise they will rot in the ground), but do this carefully, do not damage the shell. To simplify the procedure, you can throw the seeds into the water, mix them well and leave for a while to settle. Repeat the procedure two or three times - this minimizes the risk that the seeds will rot.

After that, spread the seeds on a napkin and dry for four hours.

Stage three. Sprouting seeds

Step one. Place a piece of cotton wool in a saucer and pour boiling water over it. There should be enough water so that the cotton wool is saturated with it, but the saucer should not be poured.

Step two. Cover the saucer with a piece of cling film and place it in the brightest spot in your home.

Step three. Every evening, remove the film, and return it in the morning, adding a small amount of water (cotton must be wet all the time).

Step four. After about a week, when the first shoots appear (in the form of thin white roots), you should plant the seeds in the soil.

Stage four. Planting seeds in soil

As for the soil, it should be the same as indicated in one of the previous paragraphs. Pour it into prepared containers or pots (the bottom must be previously covered with expanded clay drainage layer) and make small holes on the surface (the depth should not exceed one centimeter). Place the seeds in the holes, lightly cover with soil, but do not tamp.

Cover the containers with foil or glass and place in a warm place. Alternatively, you can put them in a mini-greenhouse. In the future, water the soil daily. It should not dry out, otherwise the sprouts will simply die. When watering, you can use a spray bottle, or you can place the pots in a pan and pour water there.

Note! When the first shoots are formed, proceed to accustoming to fresh air. To do this, remove the glass / film daily, increasing the ventilation period over time.

Stage five. We make a pick

About four weeks after planting the seeds, when there are several true leaves on the seedlings, perform a pick, i.e. transplant the plants into individual pots. The soil at this stage, as noted earlier, should already contain a smaller amount of peat, while more turf soil can be used. At the same time, act very carefully, because the root system of vines is extremely delicate and located on the surface, which means that it is easy to damage it.

Why do you need a transplant? The fact is that this plant has rather wide leaves, which, as they develop, will shade each other.

Stage six. Further care

To ensure conditions as close to natural as possible, you must adhere to a number of rules. Let's look at these rules in more detail.

Table. Key requirements

Note! In the summer, additionally apply a complex-type mineral fertilizer. Do this about once every seven to ten days.

Features of vegetative propagation of kiwi

Seedlings of this crop are grown using the same technology as described above. The only difference is that the seeds must be sown in January. Two years later, a kiwi of one variety or another is grafted onto a seedling, which by that time will grow up and get stronger.

Grafting can be done in the same ways that are used for other plants; in particular, it is:

• budding;
• split with a green handle;
• a similar process, but with a lignified cutting.

Then the vine can be planted in open soil. If the kiwifruit will be grown indoors, as in our case, then care should be taken to ensure that the container is deep enough (the roots should have plenty of room for further growth).

You can also grow seedlings from rooted cuttings. The disadvantage of this method is considered to be low germination for indoor cultivation - there are either few or no plants at all. As for further care, it is the same as when growing with seeds. When the cutting / seedling enters a period of active growth, it will no longer be afraid of low temperatures and will be able to easily adapt to any conditions.

How to get a big harvest?

Liana needs to be placed correctly. She needs a lot of space, so it's better to grow her on an insulated balcony. Also organize a support along which the plant will climb, or make a beautiful and original balcony frame out of it. The length of one creeper, by the way, can reach seven meters.

Note! To obtain fruits, care must be taken about pollination. In natural conditions, insects do this, in our case, you have to do everything yourself.

If there are too many male vines, you can graft “eyes” from female ones on them, which will allow you to get fruits. Ideally, five or six females should fall on the male plant, and if the proportions are wrong, then it is better to graft. The "eyes" take root well, due to which the yield will increase markedly.

Video - Kiwi Grafting

Also periodically inspect kiwi leaves, and for two reasons at once.

1. This will allow you to detect the fungus in time and clean the leaves.
2. Liana can be “infected” with various pests from neighboring plants, so in addition to inspecting, try to place the kiwi as far away from them as possible.

With the onset of autumn, cut off the old shoots: it is recommended to remove those branches that have already bear fruit. This will free up space for new shoots, and the vine itself will not grow old and will bear fruit for many years.

If the liana grows on the balcony, then in winter you will have to additionally protect it from frost. To do this, remove the shoots after the image and wrap them. When spring comes, they will more intensively produce young sprouts.

And in conclusion, one more useful tip. For some reason, cats love kiwi branches and foliage, so if you have such a pet, then take care of protecting the plant - you can, for example, enclose it with a net. Otherwise, the kiwi may die.

Video - Features of growing kiwi

Now in any supermarket you can buy kiwi fruits grown on large ones. They are also sometimes called Chinese, but the correct name for the plant is Chinese delicacy (Actinidia chinensis var. deliciosa). Upon careful study of the culture, it turned out that in the open ground in a place protected from the wind, it can tolerate up to -20 ° C, and under cover even up to -30 ° C. Therefore, if you "play" with, then you can try to grow it in the Moscow region in the open field, and not at home.

How to distinguish male and female kiwi plant

I planted the first kiwi seedlings in my garden near Moscow about 10 years ago, but I only waited for flowering in 2012, although in the southern regions they bloom in the 3-5th year. First, the male plant bloomed, and the next year, simultaneously with the male and female ones. Until the moment of flowering, it is difficult to determine the gender of the kiwi, but when they bloom, this difference is clearly visible: the pistil is much larger on the female flowers.

Varietal affiliation of female plants (variety hayward ) I installed only when the plants bloomed and fruits began to ripen. Not knowing how the locals and bumblebees would receive the overseas guest, he was a little safe: he pollinated all the flowers on the female vines with a male flower by hand.

The result was not long in coming, and now furry aliens from distant subtropics are ripening in my garden. However, I think that they would have managed without my help. For the viability of pollen and the activity of pollinating insects, it is optimal that during the flowering period, which in our area falls on the end of May - beginning of June, the air temperature was +15 ... +20 ° С.

Kiwi: planting and care in the open field

Kiwi is planted in places protected from the north and northeast winds. Best on the south side of the house. Spring planting is preferred. Usually plant 5-6 female plants per male. Given the fact that the kiwi, the landing pit is made shallow: 0.5x0.5x0.5 m. Kiwis love well-drained soils rich in humus. The best ratio is considered to be 1-2 parts of rotted manure or compost to 1 part of garden soil. It is desirable that the root neck be 3 cm above the ground level, since deep planting can lead to the death of the plant.

In the photo: Planting a kiwi seedling in open ground

Kiwis love abundant watering, but without stagnant water. If the summer is dry, then once a week 20-30 liters is enough for an adult plant. In rainy summers, you can water much less often. In the year of planting, you can not feed, and in subsequent years, starting from May, about once a month, apply 20-25 g of nitrogen, 10 g of phosphorus, 10-20 g of potassium fertilizers for one plant, finishing all top dressing no later than July. Do not apply fertilizers containing chlorine. Plants are sensitive to.

Given that this is a powerful fast-growing vine, for good development it is immediately necessary to install racks (pillars), between which to stretch a support: wire or rope. Kiwi is propagated by rooting cuttings, grafting and seeds. However, when propagated by seed, the vast majority of seedlings (70-90%) will be male plants, so it is better to purchase seedlings from collectors.

Diseases and pests in our conditions on kiwi are practically not found.

Shaping and pruning kiwi

I consider the most successful form of growing kiwi fruit as a single-tiered and two-tiered palmette.

In the photo: Growing kiwi in the Moscow region, Vladimir Bushnev's garden

With a single-tiered palmette, at a height of about 0.5-1 m, two sleeves are formed along a wire (rope) stretched between the pillars. And with a bunk at a height of 1.5-2 m, there are two more sleeves. After planting a seedling from young shoots, the strongest is left and tied to a peg, and the rest of the shoots are cut out. If the plant is planted in early spring, then wait until the leaves bloom on it before pruning. When the shoot reaches the height of the first tier, it is cut off, thus stimulating the growth of lateral shoots, and two sleeves are formed from them. In the spring, only dry branches are removed - at this time there is an active sap flow, and if you cut off living tissue, the cut will “cry” for a long time. In summer or autumn, weak, fruit-bearing, thickening shoots are removed, leaving mostly horizontally growing ones at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.

Wintering kiwi in the open field

I have kiwis planted at a distance of 1 m from the southern wall of the house. In the early years in November, I untied the ropes from the racks for which the vines were attached, and lowered the whips as low as possible to the ground, trying not to touch it. To a height of about 10 cm, the trunk circle was mulched. He placed two wooden shields in the form of a hut (0.5 m high) over the vines so that the vine would not be broken by snow falling from the roof, and covered the shields with 2-3 layers of polyethylene from above. Partially the hut was covered with snow falling from the roof. At the beginning of spring, when night frosts cease to fall below -15 ° C, the shelter was slightly opened so that on sunny days there would be no greenhouse effect and the vine would not wake up ahead of time. For a vegetative vine, even a small minus is critical. A few years ago, when freezing at -5 ° C (May 8), the vines that started to grow froze to the ground. Fortunately, they did not die, and by August they had fully recovered. Mature plants are difficult to bend to the ground. I had to slightly change the design of the winter shelter. In autumn, on the racks to which the vines are attached, I lay cellular polycarbonate, fasten it at one end to the wall of the house and make a small canopy. I untie the creepers from the racks and tilt them to the wall of the house. From the outside, I close them with 2-3 layers of polyethylene, which I attach to the racks. In such a winter shelter without additional heating, creepers hibernate almost without damage. Only unripened shoots freeze over. In May, when the threat of frost has passed, I remove the polyethylene.

In the photo: Winter box for wintering kiwi in the open field

Kiwi harvest

All varieties of kiwi ripen no earlier than December, but can ripen harvested. Therefore, they are torn off before the first frosts and I ripen at home. To speed up ripening, you can put kiwi in one plastic bag with (1 apple per 10 kiwi).

Popular varieties of female plants

• hayward - the most common variety in the world. Late ripe. Vigorous. The yield is high. The flowers are white at first, and after 2-3 days they are cream, up to 6.5 cm in diameter, solitary, rarely in inflorescences of 2-3 flowers. Flowering lasts 10-14 days. The fruits are large, leveled, oval in cross section. Fruit length up to 6.5 cm, weight up to 100 g. Straw-greenish pulp.
• Bruno - early maturing. Vigorous. The flowers are white-cream, 5.5 cm in diameter, they are both single and collected in inflorescences of 2-3 pcs. Flowering lasts 10-12 days. The fruits are cylindrical in longitudinal section, rounded in cross section. Length up to 8 cm, circumference - 12 cm, weight 50-70 g. The flesh is green.
• Monty - mid-season. Vigorous. The flowers are white-cream, up to 5 cm in diameter, solitary or in inflorescences of 2-3 pcs. Flowering lasts up to 12-14 days. The fruits are medium to large, slightly pear-shaped in longitudinal section and oval in cross section. Their length is 6.4 cm, circumference 13.8 cm, weight is about 30 g. The flesh is greenish-yellow. The taste, unlike the listed varieties, is mediocre.
• Abbot - mid-season. Medium height. The flowers are white-cream, up to 6.5 cm in diameter, both single and collected in inflorescences of 2-3 pcs. Flowering lasts 10-12 days. The fruits are evenly colored, elongated in the longitudinal and rounded in the transverse directions. Fruit length 6.6 cm, weight 65 g. The flesh is green.
• Jenny - medium early. Medium height. Self-pollinated. Fruits weighing up to 60-80 g. Similar to hayward , but has smaller fruits.

Popular varieties of male plants

• Matua - Abundant and long-blooming variety. Vigorous. Flowers - from single to collected in inflorescences of 3-5 pieces. The villi on the pedicel are single, short.
• Tomuri - blooms a little later than the variety Matua . Vigorous. Flowering is long, but less abundant. The flowers are large, from single to collected in inflorescences of 2-7 pcs. The villi on the pedicel are thin and long.

In the photo: Kiwi fruit grown in open ground in the Moscow region