Why the station does not pump water from the well. Do-it-yourself repair of pumping stations - possible malfunctions and their elimination. Working out on parts or low power

If you live in your own country house with autonomous water supply, then you definitely need to study the device of the water pump, the causes of possible breakdowns, know why the pump does not pump water from the well and how to fix this problem.

Finding a reason

To troubleshoot a water pump, it is important to first find out the cause of the breakdown. But first of all, it is necessary to determine those conditions without which the normal operation of the device is impossible:

  • The amount of water that the pump will lift up. Reducing its level can affect the pressure.
  • The power supply parameters must comply with the technical characteristics of the pump. In other words, it is necessary to correctly select the power of the device in accordance with the depth of the well and the calculated water flow.
  • Pump serviceability.
  • Taps, filters, valves, pipes and other elements of the device must also be in good condition. Failure of at least one component of the system will lead to malfunctions.

Often, tap water in a private house is needed not only for domestic consumption, but also on the street (for watering the garden, washing the car). Therefore, the cause of the malfunction should be sought in three directions - in the hydraulic system, indoors and outdoors. How to determine the cause? Let's use the elimination method.

First, disconnect the supply hose located in the caisson. If at the same time water flowed, then the problem is either indoors or in the pipes on the street.

If there is no liquid, then the reason may be hiding in the well itself or in the details of the pump. Sometimes this situation also happens - the device is buzzing, but there is no water. Then the most likely reasons are:

  • Incorrect installation or some parts of the pump that are not quite suitable.
  • A decrease in water in the well, as well as surges in the electrical network, can also be the culprit in water supply problems.
  • Phase failure during operation of the electric motor.

If, until recently, the device worked properly without breakdowns, perhaps the cause should be sought in voltage drops in the power grid or water supply problems in the well. If the system is completely new, then finding the cause will be more difficult.

Most likely cause of failure

If the water does not flow from the well, and the system is buzzing, the problem may be due to clogging or mechanical damage to the parts of the water supply system. Try to remember if the water quality has changed recently? Has the pressure decreased? If so, then we can safely assume that the cause of the pump failure was a simple blockage. Small algae, sand, silt - that's what can pollute the system and cause it to break.

Clogging is primarily characterized by the appearance of sand and foreign particles in the water flowing from the tap. Then its quantity and pressure gradually decrease until the water stops flowing at all. Yes, the pumps have protection against the so-called "dry" operation, but it may simply not work. And then water does not flow from the well, but the motor and all other parts continue to work.

Blockage removal

To clear the blockage, follow these steps:

  • We raise the submersible pump to the surface from the well.
  • We pump out water with a pump.
  • We clean and disinfect the entire area of ​​​​the internal space.
  • We pump out the water again.

If the water does not go, do not be discouraged - in any case, cleaning will benefit both the pump and all other parts of the water supply system. It must be performed regularly.

Further action plan

Why does the pump not pump water from the well even after cleaning? The following problems may be the cause:

  • Malfunctions in the electrical system.
  • Damage to the mechanical parts of the pump.
  • Violation of the tightness of the pipeline. There may also be holes and cracks in the pipes.
  • Malfunctions in the operation of the pump control units.

To figure out exactly what exactly broke down, we take the pump out of the well and immerse it in a container filled with water. It can be a large basin or a barrel. If the motor is running, then there is no breakdown in the electrical system. If the engine does not start, you need to call a specialist.

Attention! Do not attempt to repair the electrical system of the motor! This should only be done by a professional!

While the engine is running, visually check for holes or cracks in the pipes and hoses. Remember that even a slight deformation will result in a pressure drop. For a more accurate result, close the outlet hole with your hands. Then the pressure inside the pump will increase and even small places where there is a leak can be seen.

If any hose is damaged, do not seal it. It's better to buy a new one. The fact is that even after a quality repair, the hose will not last long due to its operation under water pressure - the adhesive tape will constantly break off, and the glue will be washed off.

The pump works but does not pump water

What to do if you have not found any problems with the electrician, or with pipes and hoses? It's most likely the pump itself. Before pumping water from the well, we carry out the following actions:

  • First of all, you need to check the filter and check valve. They should either be cleaned or completely replaced. It all depends on the degree of clogging and wear of the part. Since these components are not so expensive, we recommend replacing them at the first sign of deformation and aging.
  • The unit responsible for shutting down the system when the water supply is cut off may break or burn out. This spare part should not be repaired, but immediately replaced. This will allow you not to worry that the pump will stop supplying water again. At the same time, do not forget to check the adequate supply of the well with water. The fact is that this node can overheat when the water level drops critically.

A number of other reasons

There are several more reasons why the pump stops pumping water from the well:

  • A significant decrease in the water level in the well. The main reason for this phenomenon is improper drilling. Often the water level drops in the summer, during dry periods. To prevent such situations, it is necessary to contact only trusted well drilling companies, as well as use the dry running protection system. It will not be superfluous to clean the well with the help of special tools.
  • A centrifugal pump can pump out water faster than the well can refill. It is necessary to choose the right pump based on your personal needs. At the same time, it is better to buy a device with a power slightly higher than necessary, because guests may arrive, or you will need to water the garden with plenty of water. Do not forget to save it as reasonable as possible - do not open all the taps in the house at once and do not pour water in vain.
  • Weak pressure. Another problem that arises if you choose the wrong pump. For example, the depth of the well is about 50 meters. And the device is designed for a shaft length of about 30 meters. Of course, he will not be able to raise water to the surface with the necessary pressure.
  • Power outages can adversely affect the operation of all appliances, including the water pump. In this case, it is recommended to buy a voltage stabilizer, or connect the pump to the generator.
  • Disconnection of the pipeline. With this option, you can hear the "gurgling" of water. You need to check the water supply system and fix the problem.
  • Clogged pipes or system filters. Often occurs during the first, trial run of the pump and water well. At this time, sand or clay particles may enter the hoses or pipes. The main reason is incorrect or insufficiently high-quality assembly of the system. It is important to observe accuracy and accuracy during installation. To eliminate this problem, the pump can be washed in a container of water, after disconnecting the pipeline and check valve.
  • If the sound of a running engine is clearly audible and all possible causes of problems have been checked, but there is still no water in the house, we recommend that you pull out the pump and take it to a repair center.

Unfortunately, even the most reliable pumping equipment can fail. Among the violations in the work there are serious breakdowns and banal wear of rubbing parts or seals. Correcting the simplest problems can be handled by a home master, but you must admit that even elementary repair operations need to be known how to properly carry out.

We are happy to help you master the difficult work of a home appliance repairer. The article brought to your attention describes in detail all the characteristic types of breakdowns of pumping units. Effective methods for eliminating failures in the operation of water supply installations are given.

Those who wish to repair the pumping station with their own hands will find answers to all questions that arise in such cases. Useful information is supported by step-by-step photo instructions, diagrams and videos.

With the help of a pumping station, you can solve several problems related to water supply:

  • organize the automatic flow of water from the source to the plumbing system of the house;
  • adjust the water pressure in the water supply, bringing it to an acceptable level;
  • protect the water supply system from water hammer;
  • to create some reserve of water in case of problems with water supply.

When troubleshooting a pumping station, it must be remembered that for almost all models of surface pumps, dry-running is categorically not recommended. Before turning on the pump to check its operation, make sure that it is filled with water. If this is not the case, the device must be filled through a special filling hole.

“Dry running”, i.e. work without water, idling, is very dangerous for almost all models of surface pumps. Parts wear out a lot, the motor winding may burn out

#1: Pump is running, no water is flowing

If the pump turns on and you can see (hear) that it is working, but no water enters the tank, you should figure out exactly where this water goes. The first thing to check is . If it got bad, the water just poured back out. If there is water in the intake hose, then the check valve is not to blame for anything, you need to look for another reason.

If the hose is empty, it should be removed and the check valve inspected. It may happen that the pumping station does not pump water at all due to a simple clogging of the valve holes. It is enough to rinse the device so that it starts working correctly again.

Sometimes you need to replace the spring or the entire valve. Of course, after replacing a part or repairing, you should check the operation of individual components of the pumping station, and only then perform the final assembly and start-up of the device.

The check valve is necessary for the normal operation of the pumping station. If its holes are clogged, you just need to disassemble the device and rinse it

If there is water in the intake hose, you need to check all joints and pipes between the pump and the tank for leaks. Perhaps the water simply flows out through a crack or hole. A damaged pipe must be replaced, and a leaky connection must be cleaned, sealed and sealed again.

If the threaded connections of the pumping station become leaky and leak, they must be cleaned and resealed with suitable materials.

There is a third reason why water does not go to the hydraulic tank: the low debit of the water source. This happens if, for some reason, water does not enter the water intake part of the well or well.

This happens, for example, as a result of silting or sanding. Or the pump for the source is chosen incorrectly, it pumps out water too quickly, its reserves do not have time to recover.

How to choose, install and connect for a water intake development is described in the article, which we recommend that you read.

The pump will most likely need to be replaced, there are special models for low flow sources. To increase the flow rate of the well, it makes sense to pump it, i.e. wash away accumulated dirt. To flush the well, a separate pump should be used, and not the one that is equipped with a pumping station.

As an urgent measure, it is sometimes advised to take water from a greater depth, but this recommendation should be used with caution. If the source is sandy, immersing the water intake or submersible pump too deep can lead to contamination of the pumping equipment and its serious damage.

Another possible reason why the pump stopped pumping water is impeller wear. In this case, it will rotate idly. You will have to remove the pump, disassemble it, rinse it, replace the impeller, and possibly the pump housing. Sometimes it's easier to put in a new pump.

If the above “diagnoses” are not confirmed, it makes sense to simply check the voltage in the electrical network. If it is too low, the pump will turn on, but will not be able to supply water. It remains to establish a normal power supply so that the pumping equipment functions again in the desired mode.

#2: The device turns on but does not work

This happens with pumps that have not been used for a long time (for example, in winter). Since the clearance between the impeller and the housing is small, these elements, while stationary, can simply “stick” to each other.

When turned on, the pump will hum properly, but the impeller will remain stationary. In such a situation, the device should be turned off immediately.

The gap between the impellers (impeller) of the pump must be small. If the wheels are worn out, the gap will increase and the performance of the device will decrease, so it is better to replace the wheels with new ones.

To cope with this problem is not difficult, just turn the impeller a couple of times with your hands. If after turning on the pump operation resumed, then the obstacle has been removed.

Of course, before starting operation, a pump that has not been working for some time will not hurt to flush. Sometimes the impeller has nothing to do with it, the capacitor just failed. The damaged item must be replaced.

A burnt condenser is a common cause of breakdowns in a pumping station. It is not difficult to replace it with a new element with suitable characteristics.

#3: The pumping station is jerky

This behavior of technology is most often typical for situations where there are problems with pressure inside the hydraulic tank. First of all, you need to check the behavior of the pressure gauge. If the pump turns off as expected when water enters, but a sharp drop in internal pressure is soon observed, the problems should be looked for inside.

Most likely, the membrane in the accumulator has torn. It is easy to verify this: if you open the nipple located on the “air” side of the container, water will flow from it, not air.

The hydraulic tank should be dismantled, carefully disassembled, the damaged membrane removed and replaced with a new one, exactly the same. Trying to somehow repair a damaged liner is usually useless, it will quickly deteriorate again.

The sequence of work on replacing the hydraulic tank membrane is shown in the photo selection:

Image Gallery

No device, no matter how reliable, lasts forever. Alas! This also applies to pumps for water supply systems. Therefore, at the end of the topic of pumping equipment, let's figure out what are pumping station malfunctions and how to do the repair of the pumping station with your own hands. If you were looking for: water pumping station malfunctions, home pumping station malfunctions, water pumping station malfunctions, pumping station pressure switch malfunctions... then this article is for you anyway. Further I will simply list possible malfunctions and "correct" them.

The pumping station is running (the pump is spinning), but there is no water:

The steps to troubleshoot this issue are as follows:

  • First of all, you need to check the check valve, which is located in the water in the well or well. It often happens that sand or debris gets into it, and the valve does not close. In this case, the water does not rise through the pipes to the pump.
  • Secondly, check for water in the pipeline between the well and the pump. The pump must also be filled with water; if there is no water, fill it through the filler hole.
  • Very large output between impeller and pump housing. The pump just works for itself. The reason for this may be the high content of abrasive substances in the water, such as sand. In this case, you should change the housing and impeller, if they are on sale, or the entire pump (but not the entire station!).
  • The well/well ran out of water. The way out is to try to lower the suction pipe or hose deeper. But remember: the distance from the water level in the well to the pump should not exceed that indicated on the pump, usually 8-9 m.

The pump pumps jerkily (turns on / off very often):

To fix this problem, you need to do the following:

  • Pay attention to the pressure gauge, which is located on the automation unit. If the pressure gauge needle rises to the pressure that the station was set to (at the same time the pump turns off), then drops sharply until it is turned on, then there may be the following reasons:
  • no air pressure in the hydraulic tank. At the factory, nitrogen is pumped into the tank to a pressure of 1.5 atm. Sometimes, due to corrosion, cracks appear in the tank body, and the pressure does not hold for a long time. It is necessary to find a leak and repair the crack (for example, with “cold welding”). You can check the air pressure in the hydraulic tank by connecting a pressure gauge (at least a car one) to the nipple. The pressure in the tank may drop and not necessarily due to the appearance of a crack, but simply for some unknown reason, the air has left. Then you don’t need to bring yourself to a brain twist in search of non-existent cracks, but simply pump the air with a pump (in fact, you should start with this);
  • rupture of the diaphragm separating air and water in the tank. You can check this through the nipple: if water flows from the nipple, then the diaphragm is damaged;
  • the pressure switch does not work, which controls the activation of the pump.

The pump pumps, but the water comes intermittently (jerks):

The cause of this malfunction of the pumping station and the measures to eliminate it are as follows:

  • air is being sucked in somewhere. It is necessary to check the suction pipeline from the wells to the pump, the connections and the water level in the well. The suction head should not exceed 8-9 m (with a pipe diameter of 1” - 25 mm; if the pipe has a smaller diameter, for example 1/2”, then the height should be less).

The pump pumps, water flows, but the pump does not turn off:

Here, just the reason is the malfunction of the pressure switch of the pumping station, with which we proceed as follows:

  • pressure switch needs to be adjusted. For adjustment, the relay has two springs, large and small:

A large spring regulates the on / off of the pump (upper and lower limit). A small difference in pressure between the upper and lower limit is regulated. After prolonged operation of the pump, the moving parts of the pump are depleted, and over time, the pump can no longer create the pressure that it was “prescribed” at the factory. Therefore, you need to reduce it with a large spring, turning it in the direction of the arrow to "-". However, one should not get carried away with such adjustment;

  • the inlet to the pressure switch is clogged:

If the water quality is low, then hardness salts sometimes form, and the hole in the pressure switch is clogged. The relay just stops responding. The relay needs to be removed and cleaned.

The pump does not turn on:

Here are the steps to troubleshoot this pumping station problem:

  • look at the contacts of the pressure switch - use a tester to check the presence of power supply. If the contacts are burnt, clean them (with fine sandpaper or a file);
  • check the pump motor, check the power supply contacts, “ring” for the integrity of the winding, check the suitability of the starting capacitor. If the engine burned out, it should be rewound or replaced with a new one.

The pump hums but does not spin:

The reasons for this malfunction of the pumping station are as follows:

  • it happens that the pump has lain somewhere in the barn for the winter, and in the spring they got it and try to start it. But it starts to buzz ... Due to the fact that the pump remained without water and without movement for a long time, the pump impeller "glued" to the housing. It is necessary to manually twist the impeller from the back side, and then plug it into the network;
  • the capacitor has failed (located in the branded box of the engine);
  • you need to check the voltage in the mains, it may just be low.

That's all (or almost all) that can be said about malfunctions of the pumping station for home water supply systems and about the repair of the pumping station with their own hands.

pumping station malfunctions

Common problems and how to fix them

Constant pressure in the water supply system of a private house is usually created using a pumping station. It is clear that it is better if it works without problems, but breakdowns happen from time to time.

To quickly restore the water supply and save on services, you can repair the pumping station with your own hands.

Most of the breakdowns can be fixed on their own - you don’t have to do anything super complicated.

Pumping station - a set of separate devices interconnected. To understand how to repair a pumping station, you need to know what it consists of, how each of the parts works. Then troubleshooting is easier. The composition of the pumping station:

  • Submersible or surface pump. Pumps water from a well or well, maintains a stable pressure in the system. It is connected to the house with pipes.
  • A check valve must be installed on the pipeline. It does not allow water to drain from the pipes back into the well or well when the pump is turned off. It is usually installed at the end of the pipe, lowered into the water. What does the pumping station consist of
  • Hydraulic accumulator or membrane tank. Metal hermetic container, divided into two halves by an elastic membrane. In one, air (an inert gas) is under pressure, in the other, until a certain pressure is created, water is pumped. A hydraulic accumulator is necessary to reduce the number of pump starts and extend its service life. Creates and maintains the required pressure in the system and a small reserve supply of water in case of station inoperability.
  • Block of control and management of the pumping station. Usually this is a pressure gauge and pressure switch, installed between the pump and the accumulator. A manometer is a control device that allows you to evaluate the pressure in the system. The pressure switch controls the operation of the pump - it gives commands to turn it on and off. The pump is turned on when the lower pressure threshold in the system is reached (usually 1-1.6 atm), and it is turned off when the upper threshold is reached (for one-story buildings 2.6-3 atm).

Each of the parts is responsible for a certain parameter, but one type of malfunction can be caused by the failure of various devices.

Now let's look at how all these devices work. When the system is first started, the pump pumps water into the accumulator until the pressure in it (and in the system) equals the upper threshold set on the pressure switch. While there is no water flow, the pressure is stable, the pump is off.

Each part does its job

A faucet was opened somewhere, the water was drained, etc. For a while, water comes from the accumulator. When its quantity decreases so much that the pressure in the accumulator drops below the threshold, the pressure switch is activated and turns on the pump, which pumps water again. It turns off again, the pressure switch, when the upper threshold is reached - the shutdown threshold.

If there is a constant flow of water (a bath is taken, watering the garden / vegetable garden is turned on), the pump works for a long time: until the required pressure is created in the accumulator.

After the flow has stopped, the station works for some time, creating the required reserve in the gyroaccumulator, then turns off and turns on after the water flow appears again.

All pumping stations consist of the same parts and their breakdowns are mostly typical. It makes no difference whether the equipment is Grundfos, Jumbo, Alco or any other company. Diseases and their treatment are the same. The difference is how often these malfunctions occur, but their list and causes are usually identical.

Pump station installation options

Sometimes you notice that the pump has been running for a long time and will not turn off in any way. If you look at the pressure gauge, you can see that the pumping station is not gaining pressure. In this case, the repair of the pumping station is a lengthy business - you will have to sort out a large number of reasons:

  • There is no water in the well or well. If this is true, this situation is called “dry running” and threatens that the motor will burn out. The water that the pump pumps is used to cool the motor. There is no water, it overheats and burns out. To protect against such a situation, special protection is needed: water level sensors (float and electric).
  • Large suction line resistance (large length with small pipe diameter) or air leakage (leaky connection).
    • To eliminate highway influence, lower the suction pipe into the drum next to the pump. If the pressure rises normally, the route is to blame and you either need to seal it at the joints, or lay thicker pipes or straighten the existing one (fewer elbows and joints).
    • To check tightness suction line, after turning off the station, watch the pressure gauge for a while. If the pressure drops when the taps are closed, there is a leak in the system. If not, the system is sealed. Do-it-yourself pumping station repair will help save money
  • Pipe filter clogged or check valve. They are taken out, cleaned, checked for operability, lowered into place and a test run is carried out.
  • Another possible reason that the pump does not turn off is a malfunction of the pressure switch or an incorrectly set pump shutdown limit:
    • The pressure limit at which the pump should turn off is too high, the pump is simply not able to build up the required pressure. Then we spend pressure switch adjustment(reduce the trip limit).
    • Check relay contacts- clean them from scale (dark plaque) with sandpaper with a very fine grain (you can use a nail file).
    • Troubleshoot the pressure switch by cleaning it ( remove salt from adjustment springs and clean the inlet and outlet). Just be careful not to damage the inlet membrane. If this does not help, a replacement is required.

If the shutdown limit of the pressure switch is much lower than the maximum pressure that the pump can create, and for some time it worked normally, but then it stopped, the reason is different.

It is possible that the impeller has worked on the pump. Immediately after the purchase, he coped, but during the operation the impeller was worn out and "now there is not enough strength."

Repair of the pumping station in this case is the replacement of the pump impeller or the purchase of a new unit.

To unlock or replace the impeller, remove the casing

Frequent switching on of the pump and short periods of its operation lead to rapid wear of the equipment, which is very undesirable. Therefore, the repair of the pumping station should be carried out immediately after the discovery of the "symptom". This situation occurs for the following reasons:

  • Hydraulic accumulator too small. When choosing a pumping station for a house and a summer residence, they often take a small volume hydraulic accumulator - 24 liters or 32 liters. This is very small, since the supply of water in such tanks is only 30-50% of its total volume, that is, only 7-12 liters of water can be pumped into a 24-liter tank. Naturally, such a volume of water is consumed very quickly, which is why the pump turns on often. The method of treatment is the installation of an additional hydraulic accumulator (it is connected in parallel to the already installed one).
  • Incorrectly set limits for the pressure switch. To avoid this situation, you can increase the delta (the difference between the pressure to turn off and turn on the pump) and, due to this, lower the threshold for turning on the pump (optimally - 1-1.5 atm). One important point: the pressure at which the pump turns on must be 0.2 atm lower than the pressure in the accumulator. The pumping station can often turn on just because the pressure in the accumulator is lower than the set threshold for turning on the pump. That's why:
    • Checking the pressure in the accumulator. To do this, remove the plastic cover, under it is a nipple (like a bicycle one). We connect the pressure gauge, check the pressure. It is usually in the range of 1-1.5 atm. We bleed or inflate (with a bicycle or car pump screwed to the same nipple) so that it is normal.
    • Adjust the pressure switch. Having selected the parameters, you should get a normally working system. The pressure switch is regulated by two springs
  • Clogged check valve. If the valve does not shut off the water, it leaves the system, the pressure drops, the pump turns on. The frequency of switching on is about 10-20 minutes. Exit - check and clean the non-return valve, replace if necessary.
  • Also, the reason may be damage to the accumulator membrane. At the same time, in addition to the frequent switching on of the pump, water is also supplied in jerks: when the station is running with high pressure, when it is turned off, the pressure immediately drops. In this case, there are two options - the membrane itself or the fold has leaked which attaches it to the body. In both cases, you will have to disconnect the accumulator and change the faulty part.
  • Her one reason for the frequent operation of the pump and the water supply in irregularities is a broken spool at the top of the accumulator. To replace it, you will have to remove the accumulator, remove the membrane and replace the nipple.

Now you know why the pumping station often turns on and what to do about it. By the way, there is another possible reason - leakage of the pipeline or some connection, so if all of the above does not apply to your case - check if the joint is leaking somewhere.

Air in water

There is always a small amount of air in the water, but when the faucet starts to “spit”, something is not working properly. There can also be several reasons:

  • The mirror of water descended and the pump draws water in half with air. The solution in this case is simple - lower the nozzle or the pump itself below.
  • The piping has become leaky and air enters through one or more connections. Elimination - checking the connections and restoring the tightness. One of the reasons for the large amount of air in the water is the loss of tightness in the suction pipe
  • the pump is clogged with dirt;
  • the pump motor is broken;
  • the pressure switch settings are off;
  • the integrity of the rubber membrane in the hydraulic tank is broken;
  • there are cracks in the hydraulic tank housing, etc.

What is a pumping station?

Owners of their own water supply system on the territory of a private house or cottage often encounter various kinds of malfunctions. Basically, pumping stations contain the following elements:

  • water pump;
  • hydraulic accumulator;
  • relay;
  • manometer.

The main task of the water pump is to draw water from the right source. Popular among consumers are surface pumps installed either in special rooms of the house, or in caissons adapted for this. The pump must have sufficient power to lift water from the well, move to the house and raise it to the upper draw-off point of the dwelling.

An important component is a hydraulic accumulator (storage tank) with a capacity of 20 liters or more. A hydraulic accumulator is a metal container, the task of which is to keep constant pressure in the pipelines of the station. A successful battery model in the form of a metal cylinder with a rubber membrane inside. The membrane stretches and goes back to its previous position, depending on whether the pumping station is working or not.

The relay turns the pump on and off, determining the need for its operation by the water level in the tank. The pressure gauge is designed to indicate the pressure level in the water supply system. The presented set of components and equipment of the water supply station can work as a single system, and each individual element can also work on its own.

How to ensure the stable operation of the water supply system

If the pump works, at first glance, properly, and at the same time there is no water in the tap, the way to correct the situation is determined by the cause of the problem. To detect it, you will have to check some parameters and operating conditions.

  • Determine condition and performancecheck valve, which is located inside the well or well. Debris or sand that has fallen into it can prevent opening, and a closed valve does not allow fluid to rise to the pump.
  • Check whether the section of pipeline between the pumping unit and the source is filled with water. Sometimes due to equipment failure, power failure or other disturbances, this gap remains empty, which prevents the pump from pumping liquid. The discovered void can be filled through a special hole.

    Pumping station in a house with a pipeline connected to it from a water source

  • The most difficult situation the presence of a large amount of insoluble impurities in water with abrasive action. Often, there is a large output between the housing and the impeller of the unit. “Depleted” pumping stations for water supply for a private house require expensive repairs. In this case, it will be necessary to replace the equipment (housing and impeller, if you can find on sale components identical to those available, or the entire pump).
  • Lack of water in the well It can also cause no water to enter the system when the pump is running. One of the simplest solutions is to immerse the supply hose or pipeline deeper (but within the limits specified in the operating instructions).

Jerk mode is called frequent switching on and off of the pumping unit in automatic mode.

In this case, you should start checking the system by determining the pressure in the air chamber of the accumulator. You can determine the pressure using a car pressure gauge. If it is lowered, try pumping air into the chamber with a pump. Wait a while and measure again. If the pressure drops again, look for and eliminate the place of depressurization.

If the pumping station works jerkily, the reason may lie in damage to the diaphragm. To eliminate the defect, it must be replaced.

Frequent switching on and off may be the result of a malfunction of the pressure switch.

If, during proper operation of the pump, the water from the tap comes out in pulsating shocks, it means that air is leaking in the system. All communications between the well (well) and the pump should be checked for leaks. Particular attention must be paid to the water level in the source and the correspondence of the pipe diameter to the suction height. The smaller the diameter, the smaller the height should be. For example, a pipe diameter of 25 mm (or 1 inch) corresponds to a suction head of about 9 meters.

If the automatic shutdown of the pump does not work, it is impossible to operate such a water supply system. Emergency operation can lead to premature wear or destruction of equipment.

The reason for the non-stop operation of the pump is the incorrect operation of the pressure switch or its failure. In most cases, the repair of the pressure switch of the pumping station is reduced to adjusting the device and setting the parameters for switching on and off using the nuts on the springs under the cover of the device.

Pressure switch device - nut P is responsible for setting the lower pressure level in the accumulator, Δ P nut - for setting the difference between the upper and lower pressure levels

Another option for violations is blocking the relay with salt deposits when the water quality in the source is low. In this case, it is necessary to remove the relay and clean the hole that comes into contact with water.

The pump does not turn on

In most cases, the failure to turn on the pump is associated with an open circuit. A tester will be required to carefully check and detect a gap. First of all, you should check the supply lines and pressure switches. In the latter case, pay attention to the condition of the contacts - an oxide layer may form on them, which can be removed by cleaning using a needle file or fine-grained sandpaper.

A burned out engine can be restored by rewinding, but in some cases a new unit will be required.

To repair the pumping station with your own hands, with such “symptoms”, it may also be necessary to replace the failed starting capacitor.

If the rotating parts of the pump do not move when turned on, and a characteristic hum appears, then the reasons for this phenomenon may be:

  • jamming of the impeller due to its “sticking” to the body during long-term storage of the pumping unit without use (you can correct the situation by moving the impeller from its place manually and scrolling it several times),
  • capacitor failure (replace),
  • change in the parameters of the supply network (voltage is much lower than the nominal).

The power unit of the vast majority of pumping stations is a centrifugal pump. A simple and cheap design has proven itself in individual water supply. The only problem is unstable work after a long break. This is especially evident with the onset of the summer season. Resuscitation of equipment occurs as a result of successive actions to displace air from the system.

During the operation of a water station (however, like any mechanism), various kinds of malfunctions can occur.

Water station - malfunctions

It is very important to know exactly what types of faults are and how to deal with them.

The most common water station problems are:

1) The water station, in principle, works, but it does not pump water. First you need to look at whether the tightness of the pipelines that go to the station has been broken. It is necessary to carefully check all possible joints and be sure to check the check valve.

It is also advisable to check that there is water between the well and the pump.

The pump must also be completely filled with water, and if this water is not there, then it must be started using a special hole. It is also possible that the water in the well simply ran out - then just lower the hose deeper, until it reaches the level of water.

There may be such a breakdown due to the fact that the network is very low voltage- in this case, it will be necessary to check the operation of the engine and if it is faulty, then it will be necessary to replace it with a working mechanism;

2) The pump turns on very often and pumps water in jerks. First you need to look at what such a device as a pressure gauge shows, which exists on the automatic unit.

At a time when the pressure gauge rises to the level at which the water station is located, and then begins to fall, there are several possible reasons:

- the membrane in the tank burst.

You can check this using the nipple, which is located on the back of the tank. If you click on it and at the same time water appears instead of air, then you need to change the membrane;
- there is no air pressure in the hydraulic tank.

You need to measure the pressure with a pressure gauge and if it is low, then bring it to normal. Repair is to identify this leak and close it. Most often this is done using cold welding;

- the pressure switch that controls the rotation of the pump does not work. In this case, you will just need to change the relay to a working one;

3) The pump is running, but the water is intermittent.The reason for this is that air is being sucked in somewhere. In order to fix this problem, you need tocheck water level, which is located in the well, as well as a pipeline that sucks water from the well and find a specific place where air is sucked in, and then earn it;


4) The pump does not turn on at all, although it pumps water. In order to fix the problem, you need to repair the central pressure switch. Therefore, there are two springs in the relay.

At the same time, the level of regulation of the upper and lower levels is done with the help of a large spring. The difference in pressure level between the higher and lower is due to the lower. It is also possible that salts have blocked the inlet (they can form when there is bad water in the system).

In order to eliminate this, you need to clean the relay well;


5) The pump does not want to work at all. When such a problem occurred, it is possible that the relay contacts burned out. To do this, check with a special tester whether there is power in the network, and also look at the contacts of the pressure switch.

It is possible that the electric motor burned out - this is easy to understand by the specific characteristic smell. It is best to turn to a good specialist to fix it, since the breakdown is really quite serious.

6) The pump is buzzing and not spinning. Almost always the reason for this is that it has not been used for a long time and was left without any use.

In order to fix this, use the hands behind the pump motor to turn the impeller of the motor itself, and then turn it on

The following reasons may also be present:

- the capacitor is partially or completely broken

- low mains voltage

Water pumping station fault- here are all the most common breakdowns and exactly what ways these problems can be eliminated. There are several other types of faults, but they are extremely rare, so there is no point in describing them.

And if pressing the valve goes out, it is necessary to change the membrane.

Instructions are below in the photo.

If the reason is that there is no water, you need to measure the pressure with a pressure gauge, but if the pressure is low, you need to bring it to 1.5 - 1.8 atmospheres with a pump.
The role of the membrane is performed by a rubber bag in the pumping station