Modern construction receives more and more high-quality materials and technologies. Allowing them to be applied not only to stone and monolithic structures, but also to be used in the usual form of log houses. This gives options for more time for their operation, as well as high-quality decay and destruction of wood. A separate item can also be noted such a process as caulking, which allows you to ensure the tightness of the entire structure being created and an additional process of protection against the penetration of harmful insects and fungi.
In the process of caulking log houses, it is important to choose not only the material and tools, but also to understand the technology of each stage. At the same time, it is practical to combine practical nuances and rules with modern solutions for each of the structures being built.
The complex of works on caulking a log house should be carried out in two stages, combining separate criteria and sequence. These should be works that will allow for rough caulking in the process of erecting walls and partitions. And the process of final caulking of the cracks between the logs after the construction of the entire building.
When implementing the first method, the lower crown of logs is laid, after which the insulation layer is laid out, with a uniform overhang and filling the space for connecting the next crown of logs. Then a new crown is laid. This is done from the very bottom of the erected structure to the last crown of the walls. After that, the hanging ends of the insulation are driven into the gaps between the logs.
Rough caulk option
In the case of using the second method, the process begins after the completion of all installation work and the installation of the last crown. This method allows parallel work on the installation of the roof and the installation of the roofing carpet, performing the process of caulking inside and outside the house. It is important to note here that each of the crowns must be filled with insulation from both sides at the same time, excluding distortion and destruction of the integrity of the structures.
The “caulking of the log house” is carried out by driving the insulation between each of the crowns, starting from the bottom of the structure, gradually moving to the upper elements. This method is best performed using tape material, which is placed at the junction of the two crowns and pressed into the structure. At the same time, there is a need to leave the edges hanging down by 5-7 centimeters, for subsequent twisting into rollers and filling the resulting space between the logs.
After the first stage of caulking, there is a need to carry out additional filling of cracks. This is carried out 2-3 years after the construction of the house. Work should also be done from the bottom up, filling all the seams along the perimeter of the building from the inside and outside of the walls.
Used tool for caulking a log house
A properly selected tool for filling the process of filling the joints between the crowns of logs will simplify this process. Combining practicality and the ability to use modern materials and technologies. To do this, you need to choose a high-quality and practical tool, the list of which should include:
- a flat blade made of wood or metal, 5-6 mm thick and with a blade width of up to 100 mm; used for sealing seams and gaps between crowns;
- flat chisel, with a working blade width of 5-6 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm, made on the basis of metal; used to seal the insulation layer and the material to be laid;
- wooden caulk with a triangular blade having a longitudinal groove, width 1709 mm and thickness from 5 to 7 mm; allows you to form rollers for the final filling of the gaps between the logs;
- metal wedges, with a blade width of 20 to 35 mm; necessary to expand the gaps during compaction and laying of the material;
- wooden hammer, mallet; used for driving sealant into the seams between the crowns.
Caulking tools
Used materials for caulking, advantages and disadvantages of each of them
Forming the correct process of sealing the seams between the crowns of logs, it is important not only to understand “how to caulk a log house”, but also to use better quality material. It should be a formula that will combine durability and practicality in each individual case and in the selected area of \u200b\u200bhouse structures.
As an interventional insulation, a special rolled material is used, based on flax and jute. It is jute that allows the logs to fit more tightly and create the required conditions for thermal insulation of the entire wall structure. This material for caulking is placed in the groove below the underlying crown and is fixed around the entire perimeter with the help of a construction stapler. Also, due to this type of material, reliable sound insulation is provided inside the entire building, in partitions and external walls.
Materials for caulking
Using jute also has its downsides. It is subject to decay and its service life is significantly limited, in contrast to the use of flax and moss.
A more familiar and long-used material for caulking a log house is the usual moss. There are two types of moss, red and white, it is used depending on the growth in the region where it is. In this case, the resulting do-it-yourself caulking of a log house is considered more environmentally friendly and combines only natural materials and raw materials, without the use of machine processing of the material and preparing it for use for sealing.
But a significant disadvantage of using moss is the difficulty of finding building materials on the market in different regions. What gives benefit in the direction of choosing the usual flax.
Step-by-step technology and the process of ongoing work on caulking a log house
Today, there are several technologies that allow you to qualitatively seal and caulk the seams and gaps between the crowns of logs. Each of them uses separate materials and tools.
Stretching caulk
The combination of practicality and consistency of this technology allows the use of both jute and familiar moss. This technology allows you to distribute the material evenly along the entire length and perimeter of the building under construction at the stage of installation of each of the log crowns. At the same time, this option of work is considered more productive, since it does not require additional use of a tool, but only a high-quality layout of the material for caulking. Of course, each of the masters has his own method and the amount of material placed in the existing groove between the logs, but there is also a limitation - the material must hang 5-7 cm on both sides of the log. This is in the case of using moss. And in the case of using tape material, it should fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the logs and have an overlap of 5 cm with the previous spreading roll.
It is also worth noting that this incorporation is carried out in two stages, this is at the time of the installation of the walls and with the subsequent clogging of the remaining material after the construction of the walls.
Caulker in a set
When implementing this technology, it will be important to understand that if there are wider seams and gaps between the crowns, then the use of jute cords is indispensable. This method will allow you to practically and efficiently fill the existing space, evenly and gradually placing the material in the existing grooves.
For each of the crowns, gaps can be additionally embroidered, parallel from both sides into the walls, followed by filling with jute. After that, the seams can remain open or where additionally sealed with decorative wood plaster.
Seal knots and joints in corners
When carrying out the process of sealing corner elements or joining walls, it is important to fill each of the sections in parallel, using the same sealant as when sealing straight wall sections. But here it is important to frame the corners correctly and beautifully, without leaving jagged edges or excess material, since the load in these areas is much greater than on straight lines along the perimeter of the walls. It is necessary to hammer the applicable material as tightly as possible to prevent spillage and additional compaction under the weight of wood.
Cost and price range for the work performed on caulking a log house
The cost for the work performed can vary from 60 to 150 rubles. Prices for caulking are calculated per 1 running meter. At the same time, each of the masters takes into account not only the practicality of the material used, but also the technology being implemented, depending on the resulting seam between the logs or the customer's desire for the materials used.
The height of the structure is also taken into account, which will require additional time for the installation of scaffolding and scaffolding. The price increases from the height of the building to 1.2 - 1.5 meters. It is calculated taking into account the number of crowns up to a given height from the foundation of the building. At the same time, it is worth considering the number of nodes and indirect sections of the walls that are available in each individual project. It also increases the cost of the work. But each of the regions of Russia has its own gradation, taking into account the demand for this type of construction and the availability of appropriate material for caulking.
| City | Price |
| Moscow | from 70 to 100 rubles. |
| St. Petersburg | from 70 to 100 rubles. |
| Kazan | from 70 to 90 rubles. |
| Rostov-on-Don | from 90 to 120 rubles. |
| Krasnodar | from 60 to 100 rubles. |
Even if all stages of the construction of a wooden structure are completed professionally, this does not guarantee that there will be no drafts in the house. Firstly, the used blanks (beam, log), characterized by a large length, cannot be adjusted to one another with jewelry accuracy. Secondly, wood is constantly in the process of deformation (under the influence of moisture, temperature, and also due to natural shrinkage).
Even interventional insulation is not able to level the problem of emerging cracks, gaps; only caulking, as a way of additional thermal insulation of the log house. It is quite doable with your own hands, if you know how to do it and what you may need in the process of work.
Caulking is not a one-time event. For the first time, it is carried out either immediately after the completion of construction, or in parallel with the construction of the log house. Secondary - the next year or after 2 - 3, depending on local specifics (climate in the region; location of the building on the territory; its protection from winds; grade of wood used, which determines the intensity of its shrinkage and a number of other factors). The third time - after the final moisture removal from the material. As a rule, 5 years are allotted for this. But this does not exclude the need for unplanned caulking, as cracks form in certain areas.
Any material that can close the gap is not suitable for these purposes. His choice is determined by the following criteria:
- optimal combination of elasticity and density;
- low thermal conductivity;
- resistance to destruction by microorganisms;
- hygroscopicity, approximately identical to this indicator of wood. That is, the material for caulking should be characterized by the ability to equally absorb moisture and give it away;
- "ecological cleanliness";
- resistance to external negative factors. That is, the caulk should not be deformed, much less destroyed under the influence of the atmosphere (changes in humidity, temperature, their limit values).
When insulating a log house, it is necessary to adhere to a certain scheme. Caulking is carried out in levels, along the perimeter of the building. It starts from the lower crown, and only after high-quality sealing of the 1st aisle, you should start processing the 2nd. Failure to comply with this recommendation leads to the fact that under certain conditions there is a risk of warping the log house.
The specifics of caulking of timber and log buildings are somewhat different. The figure explains this well.
Caulking is always carried out before the start of any work on the finishing (plating) of the building. When insulating, the material is forced into the gaps with force, which leads to the "rise" of the entire log house. In total terms, for a one-story house - about 10 cm.
When caulking, you can not use different materials. The reason is the differences in hygroscopicity, which determines the degree of deformation when liquid is absorbed. Caulking only on one or two sides is also not recommended. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to a distortion of the structure.
If this happens, it is not critical. You can fix the skew with an additional caulk. The main thing is to correctly determine the area where the secondary installation of insulation will eliminate this defect.
There are quite a few of them. You do not need to be an expert in the field of construction to understand that natural materials are the best.
Moss
It has practically the same advantages. You can not purchase it, but assemble and prepare it yourself, although this opportunity is not available to everyone. "Ecological cleanliness" a priori no doubt. Another significant advantage - moss has antibacterial properties. Therefore, in places of sealing cracks, it provides high-quality protection of lumber from fungi and mold. Experts note only one drawback - the high cost of purchased moss.
Tow
With it, on the contrary, the cost is low, but it is difficult to work with this material, and it does not differ in durability. Firstly, the tow is fibrous in its structure, and therefore it absorbs moisture very actively. And she gradually moves to the tree. This, in turn, complicates the removal of rotten insulation from the gaps, especially if the seal was made to a great depth (which is typical for log cabins). Another disadvantage is that moths are very fond of tow, which gradually spreads throughout the house. And the quality of thermal insulation when the layer is damaged quickly decreases.
Lnovatin
Quite a new type of insulation. Represents the tape received by a method of pressing of the crushed flax. The material is good (heat-saving indicators are high, it does not absorb moisture and is not subject to decay), but it is only suitable for sealing large gaps.
Jute
The main characteristics are identical to flax wool. The advantage is in the variety of assortment. Jute is produced in ribbons or cords, so this material can be considered universal. The high price is the only drawback of the product.
Sealing compounds
They are categorized into three groups, but the common characteristic is the simplicity of warming the log house. The use of these heat insulators does not require professional skills; besides, the time savings are quite tangible.
Pasta in tubes. It is easy to match it to the tone of wood, so when sealing small gaps, it is the best option for caulking. If necessary, this place is varnished.
Briquettes. Their use requires a special gun. Convenience in a variety of nozzles, which allows you to process cracks, both large and relatively small.
Cords, plaits from polyethylene foam. They are pressed into the gap with the help of special tools. It is advisable to use for sealing cracks of great length.
Tools
Since caulking is carried out in various areas that differ in the parameters of the cracks, and hence the complexity of the operations, it is advisable to use a set (set) of devices for such work. Insulating a log house with just one will not work. The tool will not be needed only in the case of using soft (paste-like) sealants.
A properly selected tool will allow not only to optimize work in various areas, but also to expand (if necessary) the gap, to insulate the place of the log house, which has a complex geometry. Therefore, you should not be limited only to the devices shown in the figures.
Basic caulking technologies
Stretching
As a rule, this method is implemented in areas characterized by a large length. Accordingly, the material is also selected - cords, ribbons, harnesses. The meaning of the operation is to uniformly push the insulation into the slot with a gradual displacement of the working surface of the tool to the side. The peculiarity is that a small part of the material remains outside the log house. At the last stage, the excess is tucked up (that is, a kind of roller is formed) and forced into the gap with effort. This ensures its complete sealing.
To the set
This technology is suitable for large gaps, since in this case a narrow tape (cord) cannot provide high-quality insulation. Or in difficult areas, when the gap width changes many times. The material is disassembled into separate strands; they are twisted (in balls, loops) and driven into the gap. Working is more painstaking, requiring time and accuracy.
Sometimes the edges of the interventional insulation protrude somewhat from the log house. Experienced craftsmen do just that during the installation of the structure, taking into account its subsequent shrinkage. In this case, it remains only to tuck the excess and drive them into the gap.
In principle, there is nothing complicated in the caulking of a log house. It is only necessary to correctly assess the specifics of the work, the parameters of the cracks and choose the right material and the optimal method of thermal insulation.
Wooden houses have many advantages, but all wooden buildings dry out and deform over time. Shrinkage is given not only by log cabins, but also by houses made of profiled timber. As a result, cracks and gaps are formed between the wooden elements (beams or logs), through which the cold comes through. To make the house warm and cozy, to prevent the loss of precious heat, the caulking of the log house allows. This is a rather specific and complex work, which is the filling of the resulting space with special insulating materials. How the caulking of a wooden house is made, when it is necessary to do it, what types of caulking exist, we will talk about this in the article.
The first work that is done immediately after construction is caulking; and polishing of logs, and impregnation of wood with antiseptics, and painting of a log house are made only after caulking. Our ancestors knew what caulking is and why it is needed, because in Russia houses were traditionally built of wood. But even today, caulking has not lost its significance. This procedure solves the following problems:
- When the wood dries, cracks and gaps appear in the walls, through which heat escapes, and instead moisture and dampness penetrate into the house. This can cause the development of putrefactive processes in the tree. Caulking can achieve complete sealing of joints, insulate a wooden structure and prevent decay.
- Shrinkage of a wooden house does not always occur evenly. Often one wall sits more than the other, which leads to the distortion of the entire structure. The caulking of the walls allows you to align the structure and give the house the correct shape.
- Caulked log cabins made of logs and gun carriages are much more durable, since special impregnated materials are used to seal the seams, which do not allow water to pass through, which significantly extends the life of the wood.
Caulking is necessary not only for newly built houses, old wooden buildings also need to be insulated. Caulking an old log house allows you to close up the cracks that have formed in the logs over time, improve the thermal insulation qualities of the house, and renew the wooden structure.
Some mistakenly believe that caulking is only necessary in a log house, which is subject to severe shrinkage and deformation, and caulking a house from a bar is not necessary, since the material has already been pre-treated. However, this is not the case, the caulking of profiled timber is necessary, since it also shrinks, and as a result, cracks and gaps appear that accumulate moisture, which can provoke the formation of mold and fungus.
Many are concerned about the question: is it necessary to caulk a house from a bar if it is insulated? Professional masters give an unequivocal answer: of course it is necessary. When the profiled beam dries, deformation occurs, resulting in large gaps, which, even with external insulation, will let cold air in from the street. The caulking of a log house makes it invulnerable to wind and cold.
Log cabin caulking technology was developed a very long time ago, and today it has not changed much. Of course, the modern industry has made some adjustments to the tools, fixtures and materials used, but the basic rules for caulking a log house have remained the same.
There are two main methods of caulking: in stretching and in a set. In the first method, the insulation is stretched along the log and one end is inserted into the slot using a special tool. Then a roller is formed from the free end of the material, which fills the grooves of the log house. To caulk the cracks in the second way, the insulation is wound into a coil, loops are made from it, with which the holes are clogged. This method is best used when there are large gaps between the logs.
The weakest points in a log house in terms of heat loss are the corners. Through them, wind and cold air penetrate into the house. Therefore, the masters pay special attention to them. The caulking of the corners of the log house is made in different ways, depending on the method of cutting the house.
The greatest difficulty is caused by caulking the corners of the log house into the bowl. There are some nuances here. If the house was built from a bar, the corner joints are caulked with the same material that was laid in the crowns so that there are no discrepancies in thickness. A house made of rounded logs or carriages is best insulated with jute or linen rope.
How to caulk a log house from a log? This question is far from being idle, since the durability and efficiency of caulking largely depends on the chosen material, which must have certain properties. Since ancient times, moss has been used to insulate a wooden structure. It is still used today for these purposes, but much less frequently, since it is a rather expensive material. In modern construction, caulking of a log house with tow, jute or flax is most often performed. Each material has its own characteristics.
Tow is a coarse linen fiber, but it must be taken into account that birds love it very much, so after caulking the tow will have to be processed from birds. Usually it is treated with a special impregnation, for example, drying oil, which does not change the color of the wood; it can also be painted with oil paint. The painted surface is a reliable protection against insects. Another option is to fix finishing materials on top of the tow: a decorative rope or rope.
Jute is made from hemp, the material has good hygroscopicity, and even with very high humidity it will remain almost dry. Therefore, caulking of the bath is usually performed with jute.
Lnovatin is a durable material made from fibers and linen waste. It is a wide tape, twisted into rolls in a factory way. Lnovatin has excellent thermal insulation properties, absorbs and quickly evaporates moisture.
The process of shrinkage of a wooden house lasts several years, so caulking is carried out in several stages. Rough primary caulking is done immediately after felling the log house. The building is insulated on both sides (outside and inside) with interventional insulation, which for the first time does not fit very tightly. First, the outer joints are sealed, and only after that it is necessary to caulk the house from the inside. A prerequisite - caulking is done around the perimeter of the entire house. You cannot caulk one wall, and then proceed to the second, third, etc. Caulking raises the original height of the house by about 5-10 cm, so the structure may be skewed.
Re-caulking is carried out approximately a year and a half after the completion of construction. By this time, the building will almost sit down, so the secondary fine caulking is done very tightly so that there are no gaps and cracks in the seams between the logs. The last time caulking is carried out five to six years after construction, when the house will give the final shrinkage.
In addition to the usual, there is also a decorative caulk, which is performed for purely aesthetic purposes along already caulked seams. The craftsmen finish the log house with a rope or decorative rope.
What is the difficulty of self-caulking
Despite its apparent simplicity, caulking is a job that requires experience and special knowledge. There are many nuances in caulking that are known only to professional caulkers. The work is carried out exclusively by hand, so the quality of caulking depends entirely on the skill and professionalism of the performer.
Of course, you can purchase the necessary materials and caulk the house yourself, but the lack of experience will certainly affect the final result. Many people ask themselves: can a caulk fall out after warming up a log cabin or gun carriage? It depends on how well the work is done. If the technology is violated during caulking, the insulation is not sufficiently fixed, then it is quite possible that after heating it will fall out.
An ineptly executed caulk of tow, the birds will quickly smash into their nests. Professional craftsmen put the material in such a way that the birds cannot reach it and pull it out. In case of violation of the sequence of work, improper laying of interventional material, use of insulation of different thicknesses, deformation of the structure is possible. In this case, you will have to caulk the house again. As for labor costs, caulking is not an easy job, an amateur will have to make a lot of effort and spend a lot of time to caulk his house.
Professional caulking from the company "Master Srubov"
To insulate a log house and give it a unique flavor is a job that will be performed at a high quality level by the specialists of our company. Masters have many years of experience and the necessary work skills, have specialized education and numerous reviews of grateful customers who have appreciated the golden hands of professional caulkers.
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In our work, we follow the traditions of the old masters, as well as use modern tools and equipment, use proven certified materials, which together allow us to maintain a high standard of quality. We will perform caulking of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. To contact us, visit the page where you will find our details.
The caulking of any wooden bath must be carried out in two stages: after the completion of construction and after a year of shrinkage. For work, the same insulation is used, which is laid between the links during construction. Traditionally, baths are used for caulking: moss, felt, tow, hemp. Readers will learn how to properly caulk a bath with their own hands, what tools are needed and the intricacies of the work, having studied the article to the end.
In any case, you will have to caulk the bath. The main thing is to do the job carefully.
When assembling the bath box, a heater is laid between each log or beam. But wood shrinks regardless of chamber drying material or natural humidity. When shrinking, space appears between the logs, so it is necessary to caulk the bath for the first time in order to seal the seam and the second to eliminate the gaps that have formed.
It is easier to caulk a log cabin with the help of special tools: a caulk and a rubber mallet or mallet. If there is no caulk, then you can use a regular chisel.
What material is better to caulk a bath?
For caulking a log cabin, a steam room uses natural heaters: moss, hemp, tow, felt. All materials are available, but each must be prepared in its own way.
Preparing moss for caulking
Seam insulation with moss is a traditional method used by our grandfathers. Moss can be collected independently or purchased ready-made at a hardware store.
Moss for caulking is one of the most environmentally friendly materials. The price of moss is from 250 rubles, so it's cheaper to collect in the forest. The collected moss is laid out under a canopy and left to dry for 1-2 weeks. It is necessary to mix the moss every 2-3 days so that it does not rot. Using damp moss will cause mold and wood decay. But it is necessary to monitor drying, as overdried moss will be fragile and difficult to work with.
Moss Pros:
- Profitability (you can dial for free in the forest).
- Natural, which means that environmental friendliness is not violated.
The material has more disadvantages:
- It becomes brittle when dry.
- It is difficult to caulk a bath.
- Afraid of moisture and mold.
- Short-lived.
- It burns well.
Choosing moss to caulk a log house is necessary only as a savings. From the point of view of practicality and durability, it is better to pay attention to something else.
Preparation of felt for caulking
Felt is a natural material based on wool. But modern felt may be composed of smoked fibers. Moreover, the composition is: 60% wool and 40% artificial fiber, 70% artificial fiber and 30% wool. For a bath, they choose completely natural or with a high content of wool felt. The fact is that natural material does not burn, but simply smolders. Artificial felt is flammable.
Felt for bath caulking is suitable natural or with a small addition of artificial fibers. Before work, the felt must be treated with a formalin solution, it will not allow moths to get divorced in the wool. After spraying, the felt is hung out in the sun and dried thoroughly.
The main advantages of felt include:
- Naturalness.
- Caulking a log house is easy.
- Natural material is afraid of moisture and rots.
- Mice and birds love to use felt to build their nests, and pick the material out of the crevices in the log house.
- The high price of natural insulation.
Preparing tow for bath caulking
Tow does not need to be specially prepared before work. But moths and other insects like to settle in natural material, so the tow is impregnated with any protective compound, for example, formalin.
Tow for bath caulking can be bought in bales. The main advantages of using tow:
- Low price.
- Natural material.
- Ease of operation.
- Afraid of moisture.
- Over time, it may begin to rot.
- Mice settle in heaters.
Tow is an alternative to moss, since the price of the material starts from 70 rubles.
Jute and flax fiber for bath caulking
Modern insulation options: jute and flax fiber can also be used to caulk a log house. But despite the manufacturer's assurances about the naturalness of heaters, most of them contain artificial additives. They make jute and flax fiber durable, but environmental friendliness is reduced.
Yuan jute is sold in the form of a ribbon. Natural jute is made from bast wood of the linden family. Jute has high strength, durability and resistance to moisture. Water, falling on the material, does not linger on the jute fibers, but quickly disappears.
Flax fiber is made from flax waste. The material performed well on construction sites. Does not rot and does not absorb moisture. But there are pitfalls, sellers offer the buyer flax wool instead of flax fiber. The materials are similar in composition, but batting has 40% artificial fiber. You can distinguish one from the other by color, lnovatin is light, and the fibers of natural insulation are darker.
Produced in the form of tape, cord. To caulk the log cabin of the bath, tape jute or flax fiber is used.
It is necessary to caulk the log cabin of your bath with a heater that meets your requirements and capabilities.
Caulking a bath is necessary in two stages:
- immediately after the installation of the box;
- after shrinkage of the bath.
It is difficult to re-caulk a log house from a profiled beam, since the lock will not allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Therefore, it is better to take a material with a profile chamber-drying or glued. So, shrinkage will be minimal and you won’t have to caulk again. All other types: a log, a simple bar, cylindering must be re-caulked. You need to work with special tools, as shown in the video:
Tools for the job
To caulk a log house, various types of caulking are used:
- typesetting;
- curve;
- broken;
A mallet (mushkel) is also needed. The tool is used to strike the caulk during work. The mallet can be replaced with an ordinary rubber mallet. We need a road builder, the tool helps to align the seam after punching with caulks.
What subtleties you need to know when caulking a bath
You need to caulk the walls of the bath from the bottom up around the entire perimeter. Moreover, the work is first done by caulking one row from the inside and outside, then the second, etc. The fact is that when caulking, the bath rises by 5–15 cm. If you do not work consistently, then the structure will warp. By caulking the bottom groove along the entire perimeter, outside and inside, then the second, the bath structure will rise smoothly and evenly.
Caulking baths start from the bottom, around the perimeter. It is necessary to take care of the chimney before caulking the log house. The pipe is released at the junction with the ceiling and roof or removed for a while so as not to be damaged.
There are two ways to caulk a bath:
- in a set;
- stretched.
Let's consider each in more detail.
Bath caulk in a set
Caulking into the set is necessary when sealing large gaps and grooves. The selected material is twisted into a bundle of 15–20 mm and, for convenience, wound into a small ball. The tourniquet is substituted for the gap and hammered with a caulk and a mallet, as in the photo.
Caulker in a set and stretched. First from above, then from below. Align everything with the help of a road builder.
Caulking bath stretched out
The insulation does not need to be twisted into a bundle. It is simply stuffed into the gap between the links, and then pierced with a mallet. Perform work until the insulation stops interfering between the logs of the log cabin of the bath.
It is necessary to caulk the log house slowly, carefully closing up every crack. Places where it is difficult to hit with a tool are simply foamed with mounting foam.
We answered the question of how to properly caulk a bath using various methods. After the log cabin of the bath has finished caulking, it must be sanded and coated with protective compounds. We'll talk about this next time.
Wooden log cabins are characterized by plasticity, a tendency to multiple changes in configuration and volume during the period of shrinkage and operation. The state of the log house is also affected by weather conditions, features of operation, the time of construction of the building and features of wood protection. In this regard, the standards provide for primary, as well as repeated caulking.
Features and causes
Caulking is the process of sealing joints and cracks between logs in a log house or log house. The main purpose of this process is to increase the thermal efficiency of the building. It is carried out by filling the gaps with special seals.
You can caulk after all construction (including roofing) work is completed, or during the assembly of walls.
Caulker allows you to solve a number of the following tasks:
- warming the room and (as a result) reducing the cost of heating the building from the inside;
- elimination of gaps and cracks that appeared on the walls as a result of deformation and shrinkage of wood;
- prevention of condensation on the walls as a result of the difference between the temperatures outside and inside the building;
- protection of wood from decay.
The first caulk is carried out immediately after the completion of roofing work, the second - after the initial shrinkage of the building, after 6-12 months. After 3-5 years, re-caulking is carried out, since it is during this time period that the wood shrinks completely.
It is necessary to carry out work in the warm season. Winter is not suitable for this because the process will become even more laborious, besides, the tree almost does not shrink during this period.
Houses and baths must be insulated from both sides, outbuildings can only be compacted from the outside.
materials
All materials for interventional insulation are divided into 2 categories. They are natural and artificial.
natural
There are different natural materials, and all of them have certain advantages. Let's take a closer look at their features.
Tow
It is one of the cheapest materials, which, unfortunately, cannot boast of efficiency. The thing is that the tow absorbs moisture, as a result of which the heat loss of the building increases.
The basis of the material is linen fibers. Depending on their quality, the insulation can be bale or roll. The latter has short and stiff fibers, which complicates styling. Bale tow is softer and more elastic, so it is easier to work with it. The material is difficult to work with: it is not easy to lay it in the slots, to replace the damaged area. After warming, the seam needs to be decorated, because it looks unaesthetic. Various microorganisms, moths can start in the tow.
Moss
It is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material for caulking, has antibacterial properties and high thermal insulation qualities. However, such material attracts the attention of birds, which pull out insulation for their nests.
Usually red or white moss is used. When self-collecting, it is better to perform such work in late autumn, immediately sorting through the raw materials after collection (you need to remove the earth, litter, insects). Then the moss is dried, but not too much, otherwise it will become very fragile.
Felt
This material is made on the basis of sheep wool; for a long time it was considered one of the best mezhventsovy heaters. It's all about its low thermal conductivity, combined with high vapor permeability, sound insulation qualities, environmental friendliness, and the ability to keep moisture out. Long elastic fibers are easy to lay even in small gaps.
Among the shortcomings - exposure to moths, rotting. The addition of synthetic components to the felt makes it possible to level these shortcomings, but increases the cost of an already expensive material.
Lnovatin
Material based on recycled flax fibers, characterized by high performance and non-hygroscopicity. It provides a favorable microclimate in the room, because when the humidity level rises, it absorbs excess moisture, and when it drops, it gives it away. In addition, this feature allows you to protect the wood from decay.
Due to the composition of the material is absolutely safe.
Jute
The material is made on the basis of wood fibers of an exotic tree - jute. Due to the high content of resins in the material, it literally repels water, and also provides antibacterial protection not only to the interventional gaps, but also to adjacent logs. However, the high resin content is also a disadvantage. Under their influence, the material quickly becomes rigid, dries out, which leads to the appearance of cracks. This phenomenon can be avoided by mixing jute with linen.
artificial
Among the materials of artificial origin, several options also stand out:
- Heaters based on polyester fiber. They are characterized by biostability, non-hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Available in the form of ribbons. Among the most well-known manufacturers are Politerm (Finland) and Avaterm (Russia).
- PSUL(pre-compressed sealing tape). A material with low thermal conductivity, a feature of which is the ability to contract and expand following deformations and changes in the geometry of wood.
- Sealants. Sealants based on silicone, polyurethane or acrylic are also used when caulking a log house, but they are not independent seals. Their purpose is to seal cracks directly in the logs, as well as to apply over artificial seals. A distinctive feature is the ability of sealants to expand and contract in accordance with the expansion or shrinkage of wood.
Requirements
The main requirement for insulation for interventional seams is a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. In addition, the material must be moisture resistant, since there are no other waterproofing and vapor-permeable layers for caulking. Since the insulation is in contact with the environment, it must be resistant to winds, high and low temperatures and their abrupt change, as well as to UV rays.
If we are talking about warming the inside of the log house, then you should choose environmentally friendly seals. They must be non-toxic, not emit hazardous compounds under the influence of high temperatures.
The biostability of the material is also an important quality associated with its durability. It is good if the seal does not attract birds, insects, does not become a home and food for rodents and microorganisms.
Given the complexity and high cost, it can be noted that this material should be characterized by durability. The heat efficiency of the sealant should be maintained for 15-20 years.
There are several options for insulation, as already mentioned. If we talk about the methods of laying the sealant, then it can be laid in the process of erecting a log house or at the end of construction work.
With internal insulation, thermal insulation of intervent gaps can be combined with the organization of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated frame. In this case, after the first and repeated sealing of the interventional seams, a wooden crate is stuffed onto the surface of the log house, the step of which should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation.
Then, between the lags of the frame, a heater is attached, on top of it - sheets of drywall. An air gap of 30-50 mm is maintained between the insulation and the finish. Drywall sheets are plastered and decorated.
Before attaching the crate, the surface of the log house is covered with an antiseptic. Similar actions are done in relation to the surfaces of the lags.
Choice
The specific insulation technique depends on the type of structure and climatic features. It is believed that a new, properly built log house needs only interventional insulation. Additional thermal insulation from the inside will disturb the microclimate in the room and hide the aesthetic log walls. Baths do not need insulation from the inside either, since an additional layer of insulation will get wet, which will lead to freezing of the wall.
Primary caulking, sealing of small cracks are carried out “in tension”, while re-insulation or elimination of wide cracks is carried out using the “set-up” method.
Tools
To carry out the procedure for warming interventional seams, the following materials and tools will be required:
- caulking- a tool that looks like a chisel, with which you can insulate gaps of various widths (from 2 to 10 cm);
- caulk- is a thick narrow wedge for expanding excessively narrow gaps, allowing them to be filled easier and with better quality;
- flat chisel, having a blade 50-60 mm wide, up to 5 mm thick - serves for laying a sealant in the corners, rounded parts of the log house;
- mallet- is a hammer made of wood, serves to clog the seal;
- road builder- a kind of caulking for the formation of even rollers from a twisted heat insulator;
- a hammer- they hit the mallet, driving the sealant into the interventional space;
- insulation.
The power tool, the puncher loses to the described tools, since they do not allow the formation of a dense roller from the material, but only drive it into the slot.
Methods and technology
There are two technologies for the caulking process:
- "Stretch". It is usually used for primary sealing of seams and involves maximum stretching of the material along the entire length of the log house. First, the first strand of insulation is laid, and on top of it - a twisted second strand. The fibers of the insulation are perpendicular to the direction of the logs, and the ends are folded into a flat roller, which is hammered into the seam.
- "Vnabor". The method is used for re-caulking when the house has shrunk. This method involves driving a small amount of insulation, the strand of which is formed into a loop. Then, with the help of a mallet or caulk, it is hammered into the slot, and the insulation fibers take a position perpendicular to the wood.
The process ends with a final seal. For this, a special tool is used - a road builder.
If you decide to caulk a house or a bath with your own hands, you should focus on the instructions. The step by step process looks like this:
- Cleaning the interventional gap from dust and debris. It is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner for this.
- Insulation preparation: roll material should be dissolved over the entire length of the log house, with a small (about 20 cm) margin. It is necessary, because in some areas the material can lie in a wave, and it should be enough for one tier.
- One of the ends of the insulation tape is driven into the slot with a mallet.
- Then the material is hammered into the slot with a mallet and caulk. It is important to ensure that the seam is tight, there are no distortions.
- If a synthetic insulation was used, a sealant is applied over it.
When the insulation is laid during the assembly of logs, it must be placed immediately on the first row, leaving the overhanging ends of the material on both sides. Then a second crown is placed, on top of it - a heater. So the work is carried out until the very last log cabin. When all work is completed, and the roof is installed, the hanging ends of the sealant are hammered into the gaps with the help of a caulk. It is necessary to correctly collect the hanging ends to the center of the crown.
When laying insulation (primarily for moss), it is important to ensure that it evenly lays down on the surface of the logs. Their translucence through the insulation is unacceptable, otherwise the chopped house will turn out to be cold. If tape insulation is used, then it is rolled out along the crown and fixed with brackets. If the tape is over, then the next roll begins to overlap (about 5 cm) to prevent the formation of gaps.
