Table circular saw with your own hands from manual. How to make a machine from a hand circular saw. Side stop adjustable

A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks at home. In principle, it will not be difficult to make a circular yourself even if you do not have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. The necessary material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and a steel corner, a rectangular profile pipe and an engine are suitable here. The assembled circular saw can be put on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of such, you will have to build a table for a circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use the unit from the old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.

Hand held angle grinder

If there is a “grinder” on the farm, then there is no better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Do not despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of a metal corner of a small section located on both sides of the saw blade. With the help of bolts and nuts, the corners are connected on the front and back sides with a cross ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put on a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for the sliding stop, folded in half, is already fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case, the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Further, in the gearbox housing of the future circular, you will have to make a couple of holes for the bolts, for which it is disassembled, and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow high-quality cutting, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be supplied with a circular grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The design in shape can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are provided with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to eliminate the deflection of the handle during the operation of the hand-assembled circular. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. The uniformity of the gap, as usual, is regulated by washers.

At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it will connect to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, the second one. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this fixture for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how at home you can convert the grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Miniature Tabletop Circular Machine

The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing a horizontal segment into two uniform parts, which, after installation, are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame on the clamp. A table from a hand-held circular saw assembly can function as a cutting machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and for processing larger lumber, a more serious home-made circular machine will be required, which will be discussed later.

Stationary machine

Circular machine, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, therefore, before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. In principle, a desktop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or pantry, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary home-made circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and fixtures for a circular saw of this type.

As can be seen from the figure, home-made circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings similar to the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before you make a circular, as well as mount a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.

Circular table

A table for a manual circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from bars or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering the table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating, the base is threatened with abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of cut will be uneven. The cross ties that reinforce the saw table are best made from a 60 - 80 mm steel angle with the horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. A home-made table on which a circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a fixed position.

saw blade

The toothed disc should rise above the surface of the circular table by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not saw the wood properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, a similar cutter parameter should not exceed 350 mm, however, an engine with a power of 1 kW or more is also required here. For workpieces with a diameter of more than 150 mm, a mini circular made by hand is hardly suitable. On some factory circular machines, a riving knife is provided, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closing of the parts of the sawn workpiece, therefore it can be very useful in the case when a home-made circular is assembled.

Side stop adjustable

It is possible to put a high-quality emphasis from a steel corner with a section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed on a homemade circular table in a predetermined position with the help of bolts. The adjustment of this element is carried out according to the template placed between it and the cutter.

Shaft

The shaft mounted on the circular is the most critical unit, therefore, only a specialist using special equipment should be engaged in its turning and testing as an assembly with a disk. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is excluded immediately, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The best solution would be to purchase a finished shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings that have a curved inner surface, otherwise the assembly made by hand will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a home-made circular will become unusable.

Broadcast

In our case, a V-belt drive would be an ideal option, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail is suddenly caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will provoke the destruction of the disc, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually chosen based on the engine speed, always taking into account the allowable number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the greater the frequency of its rotation, and the cleaner the reworked unit will cut.

Motor

Among home-made devices, the most popular is a circular assembled from an engine from a washing machine. This choice is explained by the fact that its operation scheme is best suited for such purposes. Unlike collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the engine from the washing machine runs at lower speeds, which means that it shows longer operation, has increased efficiency and is not so prone to all sorts of clogging. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and working capacitor, so it is more economical to get by with a device from a washing machine. Here, in general, and all the wisdom.

A circular saw is a tool that no master can do without. Such a unit is especially necessary in the country or in a country house. But working with a hand tool is not always convenient, and branded machines are quite expensive. The way out of the situation may be the independent manufacture of such a device. The basis of such a home machine can be not only a hand saw, but also a grinder or even a drill.

Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands will cost much less than a ready-made store version.

It is not at all difficult to assemble a fairly simple frame for a circular saw with your own hands. To make it, you will need the simplest lumber and very little time.

Saw frame design

Before considering the design of the future machine, it is necessary to calculate the load that will fall on it. Because the main thing in such a bed is stability and reliability. For powerful industrial saws, the base is a reinforced steel welded structure. But such a unit is not needed for a home workshop. If you are only going to assemble your own woodworking machine, then you should take into account the main parameters of the tool itself. After all, saws are different, and, accordingly, the design of the table should be different.

First of all, it is necessary to take into account the power of the tool. Usually, for a home workshop, a unit is chosen whose parameters do not exceed 800 watts. But, for example, when building a house or a summer house, a fairly large amount of wood has to be sawn. At the same time, the power of the circular saw should be greater. But experts do not recommend purchasing saws whose characteristics are higher than 1200 watts. Installing such a tool in a private workshop is not justified. And working on it will only increase the cost of electricity.

Remember: the higher the productivity of your machine, the more stable the base must be for it. For professional circular saws, a base assembled from a metal profile is usually mounted. Sometimes such beds are even embedded in the floor. Because the vibration of the machine can lead to situations that are dangerous to life and health.

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Nuances to consider

The second parameter for choosing a saw is the depth of the intended cut. The thickness of the lumber processed on your machine depends on it. This parameter of professional and semi-professional models ranges from 4 to 7 cm. This is enough for sawing boards and even thick enough plywood. But it will be inconvenient to process logs on such a machine. In addition, it should be borne in mind that this characteristic of a saw that is built into the frame with its own hands is decreasing. The depth of cut becomes less by about 1 cm. But this can be changed if the table design provides for the ability to raise or lower the disk.

When choosing a tool, it is necessary to take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular saw for harvesting building material, then this parameter may be lower. When a smooth and clean cut is needed, the RPM must be high enough. This is necessary, for example, for the manufacture of furniture. But even in this situation there are nuances. Such a saw is not suitable for processing plastic materials. Due to too high speed of the tool, the disc heats up and the plastic melts. Therefore, it is worth choosing a unit whose rotational speed does not exceed 4000 rpm, in which case the table for a circular saw can be assembled from wood. The vibration of such a machine is insignificant and additional reinforcement of the frame is not required.

The last thing you need to consider when making your own woodworking machine is the location of the buttons and other controls. When assembling a circular saw with your own hands, remember that access to the controls must be safe. This rule is especially true if the tool is installed from the bottom of the countertop. In this case, it is more reasonable to install the panel with switches from the outside of the machine. Or provide a rising tabletop. This design will also help in the maintenance of the unit. After you have taken into account all the little things and nuances, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of the table.

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Preparatory stage of work

The simplest version of a table for a circular saw is a structure assembled from boards and fairly thick plywood from which the tabletop is made. In this case, the tool itself is fixed at the bottom of a stationary (not rising) tabletop. A special slot is provided for the disc in the bed cover. A drawing of such a machine is shown in fig. one.

The dimensions for the bed can be changed so that it is convenient for you to work. The average table height is taken as an example. It is 100-115 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person who will work with the tool. In addition, the length of the tabletop can also be changed as desired. If you intend to work with boards whose length exceeds 2.5 m, then the table top should be larger. Then it is necessary to make changes to the design itself and add an additional pair of supports (legs). Otherwise, the bed will vibrate too much.

For the countertop, you can take plywood, whose thickness should be at least 50 mm. But you can also use fiberglass plates, plexiglass. But experts do not recommend using chipboard, since this material is not strong enough.

The table top can be polished and covered with several layers of varnish. This will ensure sufficient sliding of the sawn materials. But it is much more reasonable to strengthen a sheet of iron on the countertop. Then the surface of the bed will be much more reliable, and the machine will last you longer.

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Necessary materials and tools

For a woodworking machine, it is imperative to provide for the presence of guides. They will help to cut the material accurately. This design is welded from a metal corner and attached to the countertop with clamps.

It is not recommended to install stationary guides, because in the future you will not be able to change their position.

To make a table, you will need the following materials:

• plywood sheet (countertop made of another material);
• sheet of iron;
• board with a section of 5 * 10 cm;
• timber with a section of 5 * 5 cm;
• clamps - 2 pcs;
• metal corner for guides;
• hand circular saw.

In addition, it is wiser to prepare in advance all the tools that will be needed to make the table:

• jigsaw or hacksaw;
• electric drill, screwdriver;
• milling machine or hand mill (you can do without this tool);
• measuring instruments (ruler, square, tape measure).

When everything you need is ready, you can proceed directly to the assembly of the table. Some craftsmen make beds from old kitchen or dining tables. But such a design is unlikely to last long enough. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the details yourself. In doing so, you can take into account your individual needs.

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Saw table assembly

The manufacture of the frame begins with the formation of the tabletop. The plywood sheet is marked so that 2 edges of the cover coincide with the edges of the sheet. The workpiece is cut with a jigsaw or hacksaw. If desired, the saw cut edge can be processed with a cutter. But this operation is not mandatory. Since in a table for a circular saw, the main parameter is its reliability, not beauty. The tabletop is treated with sandpaper “roughly”.

On the underside of the tabletop, a slot for the disk is marked. To do this, you first need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to remove the disk from the tool and simply circle the necessary part of the saw. These parameters are necessary for the formation of the footprint.

With the help of a hand cutter, wood is selected to a depth of about 0.8-1 cm. If you do not have such a tool, then the work can be done with a chisel, but it will take much more time.

After the seat is ready, be sure to try on the saw, adjusting the recess if necessary. Mark the fixing points for the fasteners and the slots for the disk. If you want the saw blade to go down and up as you wish, then you need to build a pendulum mechanism for the table. In this case, the slot should have the shape of a truncated pyramid. Moreover, the hypothetical top of this figure goes down. An example of a drawing of such a design with a belt drive is shown in fig. 2. It is more reasonable to make the frame for the lifting mechanism from metal corners that are welded together.

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

• base;
• sawing table;
• parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the artisan exerts force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

1. Circular saw or can be used.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

1. Plywood.
2. Massive pine.
3. Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
5. Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
6. Self-tapping screws.
7. Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The clamping force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

• The base of the transverse part;

1. Longitudinal part

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part;

1. clamp

• Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

• planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or, as an option, a false table can be made “in haste”), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

• The base of the transverse part;
• Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
• Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
• End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.

When buying a circular saw, the future master does not always imagine the amount of work that he will have to perform with this equipment. This is one side of the problem. On the other hand, the master understands that it is better for him to purchase a circular machine right away, but it is very difficult to find a comfortable table that would meet all the requirements.

The circular table allows you to make a more accurate and even cut.

Thus, the idea was born to make a table for a manual circular saw with your own hands. In this area, true craftsmen have no restrictions.

Read also:

For what kind of work is it necessary?

About do-it-yourself blade for a walk-behind tractor.

General requirements for a table for a circular saw

The table for the working saw must meet several basic requirements:

• support rigidity;
• stability;
• evenness.

In addition to these requirements, there are several necessary conditions that must be taken into account when creating a machine for a circular saw.

1. Safety and reliability of fastening of a saw.
2. Guard for the saw blade, which is very often left unfulfilled.
3. Free access to on/off button.

An additional set of functions of devices depends on the requirements of the master himself and his qualifications. This set includes accessories that:

• help to perform an even longitudinal cut;
• the same quality cross cut.

The standard table, which can be purchased with a circular saw, is usually made of stainless steel. The sawing device itself is mounted upside down, approximately in the middle, an incision or slot is made to place the saw blade itself into it. Its width must match the width of the saw blades used. This gap should not be allowed to be too wide. In this case, chips and other working debris will often clog the device, putting it out of action.

As for the technical parameters of the saw that will be used for machine sawing, its engine power may be greater than that of a conventional hand saw. But still do not exceed 1200 W, experts consider such a risk unjustified. After all, the more powerful the saw, the more durable and reliable the table is needed.

Industrial machines are made, as already mentioned, exclusively from metal, but their support is very often filled with cement to more securely fasten the device.

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Necessary material and table assembly for a hand-held circular saw

To make a table, you can take the following materials:

• plywood 20-50 mm thick;
• plexiglass;
• fiberglass boards.

When choosing saws in a store, the buyer often pays attention to the immersion depth of this device, which means the maximum thickness of the material being processed. It must be assumed that improper use of the hand saw will take away approximately 1 cm of sawing thickness.

The parameters of the table largely depend on the surfaces to be processed.

If it is assumed that the products will be bulky, for example, longer than 2.5 m, then the table will have to be strengthened with additional legs.

The circular table has several features in its assembly. The workpiece for the table top must be described in a separate paragraph.

So, for the tabletop, legs are made from the same plywood, but of greater thickness. To secure it, clamps are made along the table or crosswise. This will allow the table to be more rigid. The stability will be affected by the correct length of the legs, the installation location.

The table can have different sizes, the master determines these parameters independently. For example:

• cover 70x80 cm;
• height 110 cm.

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Table cover: how many useful things can be on it

For the saw itself, depending on the chosen thickness of the tabletop, a saw cut is made with a depth of about 1 cm. The saw cut is made to fasten the desktop of the device itself around the perimeter. In order to make it, using a ruler, a simple pencil and the hand saw itself, mark the place where the device will be located.

There are several options for how to attach the saw to the table. It all depends on what the goal is. If a person wants the saw to be freely dismantled if necessary, the mount must allow this to be done, but at the same time be reliable.

To do this, around the marked perimeter of the working surface of the saw, limiting bars with grooves are installed without forming a closed frame. Thus, the hand saw is fixed. But this setting is applicable for small volumes of work and low disk speeds.

A more reliable fastening looks similar, but with this fastening, the bars are smaller: there are not 4, but 6 or 8, each is fixed near a specific section of the bed, and if necessary, the master will have to unscrew the bolts near each such bar. Some fasten the circular without wooden bars, screwing it directly to the table, making holes in the bed.

Turning over the table top, you can see a slot with a saw blade sticking out of it. During installation, the disk platform locking function is used.

You can make a slot on the sawing table for a removable riving knife, which will be attached next to the saw from the underside with a clamp.

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Guides for longitudinal and transverse cuts

The table must have guides; for their manufacture, aluminum construction U-shaped rails are used. With an open edge, they cling to the table. Subsequently, auxiliary fasteners will move along them, allowing for more accurate cuts.

The first guide that runs along the saw should be built in. The rails for the parallel guide will run along the edges of the table, perpendicular to the saw itself. The guides themselves are also made of plywood.

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How to make cross cuts?

To perform cross cuts, a bar is most often used, which looks like a small table. It is upside down, has 2 parallel bases and a slot through which a saw blade can pass. If all angles have been observed, the cut will be strictly perpendicular.

The solution for the transverse sawing direction can be another interesting option. On plywood (slightly larger than the table), bars are attached from the underside. They should be located clearly on the width of the table. From the top of the board, 2 parallel plates are attached, which are higher than the saw blade and have slots for its passage. The result is the same, but this solution is easier to implement.

In addition, the table top can be equipped with rulers on both rails.

If you want to learn how to make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, then read the article.

It describes the materials that will be required in the course of work, and the main stages of the process aimed at creating a simple but functional design.

Materials and tools

A circular saw is a “serious” tool, using which you need to follow safety precautions.

A homemade table that can be used as a tool stand will allow you to carry out any manual work with greater accuracy and with less injury risk.

Before you make a table, you need to devote time to carefully planning its design.

It is best to create a detailed drawing containing pre-calculated dimensions of the future "stand".

The tabletop, on which it will later be possible to install the saw, should be made of either metal or hardwood. It is better to refuse the use of resinous wood.

The dimensions of the worktop should be chosen in such a way that they correspond to the planned sawing flow.

It is better to use wooden legs as a base. Plastic, even strong and high-quality, should not be used, as it is not the most reliable material for making a saw table.

In order for the made table to “function” in full force, it should be equipped with metal guides that can move the material under the saw, or rather, under its working blade.

The optimal size of the bed, suitable for most typical sawing work, is one hundred and twenty by one hundred and twenty centimeters.

If you want to make your table wide and long, then take care of additional stops that will support its construction.

In particular, to give the product stability, it can be equipped with not four, but six legs.

The assembly of the table for manual is carried out using additional materials, including:

• wooden bars designed to form the frame of the structure;
• fastening dowels;
• wood glue;
• metal "corners" for attaching the legs;
• nails and screws.

Tools that may be needed during the work:

• tape measure and hard construction ruler;
• electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
• apparatus having an installed milling tip;
• sandpaper (or grinder);
• hammer and planer;
• screwdriver (or screwdriver).

Stages of making a table for a circular saw

The creation of a table for a saw should begin with the assembly of its frame. To perform this procedure, you can use bars or edged boards, the size of which is fifty by one hundred and fifty millimeters.

The boards need to be hammered together into a single square or rectangular structure, which will serve as both a frame screed and the basis for attaching the legs.

The frame made should be connected to the legs, using special metal corners, dowels and self-tapping screws during the process.

These devices must also be used to connect the assembled frame to the countertop.

As an alternative, the frame elements can be connected not to each other, but to the legs of the future table. Some carpenters believe that this design is more durable.

The installation of the saw must be carried out on an inverted bed. Thanks to this, its body and motor will be on the bottom, and the disk, otherwise called the working blade, on top.

A hole that allows you to deepen the frame of the saw into the table should be cut in advance with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw.

It is important to remember the correct selection of the size of the hole, which will reliably “hold” the saw, guaranteeing the overall solidity of the structure.

Most circular saws have special metal parts that give them stability.

To fix the device on the countertop, you should make four bars with sawn grooves and drill holes in them for long bolts.

After installing the saw, you should put prepared bars on its carriage, thereby pressing the device to the bottom of the tabletop.

When attaching the support bars and saw to the tabletop, it is important not to damage the outer part of the bed, so as not to create obstacles on its surface for the normal movement of the boards intended for sawing.

When the saw is securely attached to the table, you need to turn the bed over and screw it to the tie rod.

At this stage of the work, you should make sure that all work has been carried out correctly and the device functions without problems.

Only then can the material guides be attached to the table.

Additional Information

Carpentry needs attention. If you want to make a high-quality and reliable table designed for installing a circular saw, then thoroughly prepare for the process and purchase all the necessary materials and tools.

After assembling the frame, be sure to install it on a flat surface and check that the countertop of the structure does not outweigh it in any direction.

It is better to set the table for the place where it will stand in the future, in order to eliminate possible problems associated with uneven floors.

If, due to an uneven floor, the table vibrates during the operation of the saw, then the length of the legs should be adjusted using dense felt or rubber.

The tabletop of the product can be both monolithic and folding. To create a folding table for a saw, you will have to spend more time and material, and pay special attention to improving the reliability of the bed, which is disassembled.

The dimensions of the consumable used to create the table are determined empirically. Ideally, the height of the structure should correlate well with the height of the saw owner.

The hole that will be made in the table top must match the dimensions of the particular saw that is available.

In order to extend the service life of all materials used, assembled into a single structure, they should be treated with special chemical solutions that can improve the performance of wood or metal (for example, protect their surface from corrosion, decay, mold, etc.).

It is better to process wood or metal outdoors, and not indoors, so as not to be poisoned by active fumes.

Inspired by this article, you can make not only a reliable stand for a circular saw, but also a table where you can drink and eat, gathering with the whole family.

The technology that underlies the creation of a dining table is in many ways similar to the scheme, using which you can put together a wooden table for a circular saw.

In the course of work aimed at creating a table for a circular saw, it is important to remember safety precautions.