What type of clapboard is used to cover the steam room? How to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside - step by step work! Installing a frame under the lining in a bathhouse

What kind of materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And it’s much more pleasant and familiar to the eye wood panels. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.

Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. Difference from simple edged boards consisted of the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, due to which maximum contact between adjacent panels was ensured. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Together with technical progress production has also stepped forward different types linings. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.

Pay attention! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic doesn't hold up high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on respiratory system person.

Choosing lining for cladding

Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there is ventilation ducts, which prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to , humidity wooden products allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden euro lining for lining the bathhouse.

Prices for wooden lining

wooden lining

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. Best options for the steam room - aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood is a large number knots heat up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.

All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of ​​the internal lining

For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of ​​the steam room lining.

1. Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
2. Area of ​​the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
3. Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
4. Total area rooms: 6 (ceiling) + 7.5 (first long wall) + 7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m 2.

We calculate the area of ​​the hallway paneling.

1. Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
2. Area two long walls: 3x2.5=7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
3. Area of ​​two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
4. Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of ​​the window and doorways, then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed to cover the inner surface of the bathhouse.

The most popular profile size is as follows:

• panel thickness 12.5 mm;
• panel width 96 mm;
• panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how much square meters material in one cubic meter, count the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.

Advice! You should not purchase lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a product low quality, which will quickly lose its properties and the lining of the bathhouse will have to be completely or partially changed.

Choosing the method of installing the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bathhouse is horizontal.

Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:

When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. At vertical mounting It’s easier to decorate the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, falling coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be dismantled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing, the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.

Prices for PVC lining

pvc lining

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's consider step by step process ceiling trim.

Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling

The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. Optimal distance between adjacent slats - from 40 to 60 cm.

Pay attention! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.

The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.

We fasten the second batten strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the battens should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last batten of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the slats using a stretched fishing line/cord or laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.

In some cases, when you need to do more low ceiling in the bathhouse, metal hangers are used to fasten the lathing.

In this case, first to the ceiling long screws(dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), the hangers are fixed, after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with coarse threads are used, length 3.5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.

It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.

Pay attention! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling

Do it in a clapboard through holes and there is no need to hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust stains on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

Note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the lath of the sheathing, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.

Pay attention! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then from opposite side should also be 60 cm.

The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls

We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.

The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal plots 40-50 cm each, with the resulting step, attach the horizontal bars of the sheathing using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled for them with a drill) or nails.

Pay attention! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. For horizontal arrangement of strips, the linings are first fastened horizontal slats on the wall, and vertical ones on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls

If the lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, you must leave a gap of 2 cm.

To decorate the corner beautifully, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions described above).

If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.

We drill holes for the self-tapping screws, place the board on the sheathing (always with the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, check that it is horizontal. Screw it into drilled holes self-tapping screws We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.

We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.

Video - Steam room lathing

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.

It is only necessary to sheathe the steam room and washing area in the bathhouse natural materials. Under no circumstances should you use plastic, as when heated it can emit fumes that are harmful to health. Also, do not use cladding ceramic tiles- This is a practice from Soviet times, when public baths used tiled walls. Ideal material For finishing there is linden lining, but it should be noted that it is not cheap.

Linden lining

As mentioned above, the best lining for a bathhouse it’s a fake one. Compared to pine lining, linden lining is much more expensive, but has serious advantages:

• Does not emit resin;
• Has a pleasant smell;
• Doesn't get very hot, i.e. has low thermal conductivity;
• Does not darken for a long time when exposed to moisture.

The qualities of linden lining allow it to be used in areas of high temperatures and humidity, namely in a steam room. Naturally, in the steam room it is necessary to use linden lining not only for upholstering the walls, but also for making shelves. Linden shelves heat up significantly less than pine shelves.

Aspen lining

Aspen lining has many of the advantages of linden lining. It should be especially noted that aspen is quite resistant to rotting. Not many people know that aspen was used in Rus' in the construction of wells.

Unfortunately, the process of processing aspen wood is quite labor-intensive, which is why the cost of lining is unaffordable for many.

Cedar lining

The pine smell excites the soul! Perhaps, the best tree Coniferous species used for making lining is cedar. Cedar lining has even lower thermal conductivity than linden and aspen, however, it is quite difficult to find lining made from real cedar. Very often, under the guise of cedar lining, they sell cedar pine lining. The fact is that cedar does not grow in Russia. What we call cedar is cedar pine, which releases resin when heated.

Pine lining

Pine paneling cheap option for covering a bath. However, you should not use pine clapboard to cover the steam room - pine gets very hot, which can cause burns.

Pine lining is quite suitable for a washing room where the temperature is not high. You can also upholster the dressing room with pine.

Selection of lining: classes A, B, Extra

How to decorate a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands

If you wish, you can upholster the bathhouse with clapboard yourself. Below is a video created by comrades from Finland who know a lot about baths, or rather saunas.

Material for work:

• Laths for sheathing;
• Screws for fastening the sheathing. If the walls of the bathhouse are made of lightweight concrete (expanded clay blocks or aerated concrete), we recommend using screws for lightweight concrete Sormat KBRM, which have a nano coating, which will prevent them from rusting under the influence of increased moisture in the bath;
• Insulation;
• Aluminum foil;
• Aluminum tape for gluing foil joints;
• Lining;
• Nails (preferably stainless steel);
• Polyurethane foam;
• Staples for a construction gun.

Laying insulation and aluminum foil

As already mentioned, the video is in Finnish, but even without Russian translation everything is clear.

Ceiling and wall covering. Installation of lamps

On Russian-language sites they often say that the lining should be nailed vertically so that moisture does not accumulate in the locks of the lining. In relation to the sauna, this rule can be neglected, since the humidity in the sauna is less than in a Russian bath.

Please note that the lamp is positioned so that it is under the shelf.

Using foil foam and nailing the lining at an angle

To make the bath not just warm, but super-warm, instead of foil, you can use foil foam, which will turn the bath into an airtight thermos.

From the video you can see that the foil foam has a lock. Moreover, the connection of the sheets is foamed polyurethane foam, plus it is sealed with foil tape.

Interior decoration of the bathhouse, and steam room wall cladding in particular, has great value. Without doing this, you cannot count on the durability of the structure itself. After all, heat loss, especially in a steam room, will not add to the pleasure of visiting it. Therefore, the presence of thermal insulation of walls is a necessary condition at .

All this fully applies to non-log buildings. But what to do if the bathhouse is log house, the material of which is an excellent natural heat insulator? Let's try to figure this out together.

This question is asked by many log bathhouse owners. Ideally, there is no point in insulating such a bathhouse and sheathing it with clapboard. After all, wood itself is an irreplaceable natural heat insulator. In addition, it has been proven that a steam room with log walls - steam from the stove-heater is reflected from them without a shock wave, creating a more favorable internal environment.

It is also important usable area steam rooms Whether we like it or not, covering a room will inevitably entail a reduction in its area. Yes and financial costs have a certain, and often fundamental, meaning.

If, nevertheless, you decide to insulate and sheathe the steam room with lining, then it is recommended to take into account the following thermal insulation characteristics walls made of logs depending on its diameter:

• 200 mm or more - no insulation required;
• 150 mm – insulation can be omitted, but warming up the steam room will take considerable time;
• 100 mm – insulation is required.

In any case, the decision is up to you. It all depends on individual preferences - some people like it traditional style Russian bathhouse, while others will like modern design.

Necessary tools and accessories

1. Electric drill with a set of wood drills.
2. Electric jigsaw.
3. Wood saw.
4. Set of wood rasps.
5. Hammer.
6. Hatchet.
7. Mallet.
8. Furniture stapler with a set of staples.
9. A device for sawing bars at an angle.
10. Level.
11. Roulette.
12. Measuring ruler.
13. Carpenter's square.
14. A ruler for drawing the outline of a log house.
15. Plumb.
16. Rope.
17. Metal clamps for lining.
18. Pencil.

Selecting materials for cladding

Pine or spruce beams for sheathing		Sections 45 x 120, 40 x 50
Skirting boards and corners for finishing sheathing		Hardwood
Windproof waterproofing membrane"Tyvek Housewrap"		Protection of thermal insulation from moisture penetration from the outside. On the insulation side it freely allows steam and moisture to pass through, while simultaneously preventing moisture and wind from entering the insulation.
Self-adhesive tape "Isofix"
Waterproof basalt wool “Rockwoll”, mats 100 x 600 x 1200 (thickness x width x length, mm)		Made from natural basalt rocks. Has a high environmental indicator.
Reinforced with glass mesh aluminum foil"Armofol" type B		Designed for temperatures from -60 to +200 °C. High coefficient of thermal reflection and low vapor permeability
		Temperature range: -30 to +150 °C. Has increased strength
Eurolining 14 (12.5) x 96 (thickness x width, mm)		Abashi, alder, black alder, linden, aspen. Divided into classes Extra, A, B, C depending on appearance (presence of knots, texture, etc.)

Covering the walls of the steam room with clapboard

Choosing a cladding method

There are two types - vertical and horizontal. In our example, the lining is positioned vertically. If desired, you can also orient it horizontally. In this case, there is no need to install horizontal slats (planks) on top of the vertical posts. In this case, the width of the racks must be taken in such a way that thermal insulation wool was recessed by 20-30 mm relative to their longitudinal end. This will ensure ventilation of the air space between the insulation and the inner surface of the wall sheathing.

It is important to know that when horizontal view It is necessary to sheathe from the bottom up, placing the tenon at the top. This will subsequently prevent water from getting inside the joint grooves when it flows down the walls of the steam room.

Laying the first moisture-proof layer and vertical posts

1. First, we make markings for installing vertical posts, starting from the corners of the steam room with a step of 590 mm between their inner edges. These dimensions will allow you to fit tightly basalt wool 100 mm thick.
2. The decoration of the walls of a bathhouse built from logs has its own characteristics. The fact is that fixing the sheathing slats strictly vertically is not so easy. To achieve this, you need to process vertical racks from the side of their contact with the logs. For this purpose, a special copier is made, which is a thin ruler pointed on one side and holes drilled along it for a pencil. By attaching the stand to log wall, the copier is carried along it and lines are drawn that repeat the profile of the log house. Next steps come down to processing the racks along the drawn lines. It is enough to ensure a tight fit of the rack to the logs in several places with a step of 600 mm, maintaining strict vertical level. The length of the contact surface of 20-30 mm is quite sufficient. Don't forget to treat with an antiseptic.
3. We lay the protective membrane from bottom to top. The top film is overlapped with the bottom film by 20-30 cm. We level and fasten the top edge to the protruding parts of the logs with staples using a stapler. We glue the overlap areas with self-adhesive Isofix tape.
4. We align the protective film under the posts, which we install in the corners according to the previously made markings. Using a level or plumb line, set them strictly vertically. Fastening to logs is done with galvanized nails or screws. To avoid using long screws, drill a 2-3 mm blind hole in the rack larger size screw head diameter.
5. We stretch the rope between the outer posts in two places: below and above. It will serve to base the internal racks.
6. We install all internal racks according to the example in step 4.
7. Align and carefully staple the protective film. Where necessary, additionally glue with self-adhesive Isofix tape. This operation should be performed with particular care. It is important to completely eliminate the possibility of air entering the area of ​​open logs.
8. Note: During the installation of corner posts, it is necessary to simultaneously lay heat-insulating wool in the corners.

From time immemorial, not only Slavs, but also Finnish, Ugric and even nomadic tribes made a considerable contribution to the creation, which over time began to be called “Russian bathhouse”. In those days, the technology was very simple: a massive log house was used, which did not have any insulation inside. In our technological world, this option is not very practical, since it will require a significant amount of firewood and a lot of time to fire the bathhouse. Wood was once the cheapest material - this is no longer the case. Modern bathhouse easier to sheathe. There is enough information and photos for this. How to do it inexpensively and beautifully? This will be discussed further.

A quick guide to material selection

What sauna lining should I use and is it needed at all? An important question for steam room owners. Let's first figure out what functions it performs. Main task sheathing - reduce heat energy consumption and reduce the heating time from 4 to 1-1.5 hours. Although, perhaps, this does not apply to bathhouses that were competently built using old technologies - from solid timber. In this case, no insulation is required. However, construction costs will be completely different.

So, when choosing a material, first of all, you need to think about the properties it should have. Of course, it must be non-flammable, steam-resistant and, undoubtedly, harmless to your health. Not recommended for cladding interior walls baths are unnatural materials.

Favorite material for interior decoration the premises are lining, a little less often they prefer a block house with a spectacular appearance, or magnetite, which is just developing on the market. What, after all, should you prefer? Let's look at all the options in more detail.

Cladding

Builders associate lining with beauty, practicality and reasonable cost. High quality the lining partially regulates the air humidity in the steam room, prevents the appearance of fungal mold and condensation, and allows the walls to “breathe.”

Advice. Eat little secret when choosing lining, which allows you to significantly reduce the cost of its purchase. Very often on the building materials market, lining up to 1.5 m long costs much less than 2 m and above. And covering a bathhouse with material of this length is quite simple - you just need to make a strip in the middle.

Most often, lining is preferable for finishing the interior of a bathhouse, since it has a number of undoubted advantages:

1. Saves heat. Lining significantly reduces heat loss and, accordingly, the amount of wood used (electricity, gas).
2. Gives the room an aesthetic appearance, hiding communications and uneven finishes.
3. Prevents the formation of dampness.
4. It lasts a long time.

You should also take the choice of wood for lining seriously, because the level of reliability of the material and the degree of financial costs depend on it.

• Linden - ideal option for the steam room. Highlighted by her essential oils have a disinfecting and anti-inflammatory effect. It enhances sweating without burning the skin and respiratory tract due to low thermal conductivity.
• A less costly alternative to linden will be aspen. It draws diseases out of the body and is not susceptible to rotting after prolonged contact with water. This wood is very soft and cuts easily.
• The best option for shower walls would be larch. It has a positive effect on well-being and increases resistance to infections. And floors made from this wood will be extremely durable and reliable. Even various small rodents and bugs will not be afraid of them.
• The leader in strength among wood species is undoubtedly white share. It is even stronger than oak and will only get stronger over time. Acacia is not subject to deformation and rotting. Products made from this wood will be very durable and wear-resistant, so acacia is perfect for finishing doors and floors in a steam room.

Choosing a block house

Block house for a bath - optimal combination price-quality. This material is so close in its external characteristics to the log house, that it is almost impossible to distinguish a bathhouse lined with a block house from a log one. This material undergoes special drying, so it is not susceptible to deformation or cracks. But periodic (once every few years) bactericidal treatment is still desirable.

There is a classification of block houses according to the degree of quality:

• Class "C" - low quality material, processed only superficially. Various types of deformations are allowed (cracks, remains of bark, etc.);
• Class “B” - average quality block house, allowing only a limited number of deformations (small cracks, knots up to 3 cm, etc.);
• Class “A” - perfectly processed material, without any irregularities (except for small knots - up to 3 cm);
• "Extra" class - the most high level quality material with perfect surface finish.

For the interior decoration of the bathhouse, a block house of the last two classes is recommended. Deciduous and coniferous wood is used as material for the block house, with the exception of spruce and pine (since they have high thermal conductivity and can cause burns when touched).

Advice. In a steam room, you should never use chipboard or fiberboard, as they release toxins when heated.

MAGELAN

A self-confident newcomer to the building materials market is a glass-magnesium sheet. It is made from fine wood chips, magnesium and other components reinforced with fiberglass mesh. This is acceptable, but not the best best material for interior decoration. However, certain advantages of this material cannot be denied:

1. Insensitive to temperature changes and combustion.
2. Does not rot and is impervious to moisture
3. Easy to install.

In this article we have introduced you to possible options finishing interior spaces baths starting from natural wood and ending modern materials. Now, knowing about the advantages of certain materials, it will be easier for you to make a choice depending on your wishes and financial capabilities.

What not to do when lining a bathhouse: video

How to cover a bathhouse: photo

Wooden cladding of walls and ceilings in a bathhouse is a traditional finishing option that allows you to accumulate heat in the premises and create an optimal microclimate for bathing procedures and relaxation.

Decorating the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands is possible for anyone who has minimal skills in working with tools for wood construction. But at the same time, it is important to strictly follow the work technology at all stages so that the casing does not deform over time and does not lose its functional properties.

Material selection

You can decorate the bathhouse premises with ordinary lining or eurolining, and it is recommended to use eurolining at least for covering the walls and ceiling in the steam room. The advantages of eurolining include:

• larger size of the lock connection (the lock is more reliable and easier to install);
• the presence of vertical slots on the back side (they compensate for internal stresses, preventing cracking of the planks, provide ventilation and condensate removal, protecting the wood from rotting);
• protective treatment (the wood is pre-treated with products suitable for use in steam rooms).

The lining of the bathhouse inside is carried out using only the highest (elite) or first grade lining - such wood has no defects. If, in order to save money, planks with knots are used, they are placed in areas where contact with human skin is excluded (ceiling, lower part of the wall under the shelves).

The choice of wood type depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities, but it is important to select a material from options suitable for use in a bathhouse. These include: traditional linden, aspen, alder, oak, cedar, larch (mainly for the washing department), ash, and exotic breeds wood - abashi, hemlock, etc.

Preparatory stage

The walls in the bathhouse need quality internal insulation. First of all, a roller is attached to the wall. waterproofing material- it is mounted by pressing the sheathing slats.

Between the elements of the sheathing, mats made of non-flammable fiber insulation are laid - they are fastened by surprise, for which the size of the mat should be 2-3 cm greater than the distance between the battens of the sheathing.

A layer of foil vapor barrier is laid on top of the wool. The canvases are attached with an overlap of 10-12 cm, the joints are taped with aluminum tape. For attaching heat-reflective vapor barrier film use a construction stapler.

If used as insulation mineral wool with foil coating, installation vapor barrier membrane not required. The mats are attached with the foil side facing the clapboard sheathing.

Narrow 20 mm thick slats are placed along the sheathing - a counter lathing, thanks to which there will remain between the insulation layer and the sheathing. air gap for ventilation.

At the stage of preparation for finishing the bathhouse with clapboard, it is necessary to take care of ventilation - provide appropriate openings near the stove, one at a level of 150-300 mm from flooring, the second is under the ceiling. Air ducts are mounted from corrugated aluminum pipe, valves are installed on the holes to regulate the air flow.

The principle of fastening the casing

The premises are finished from the inside with clapboards in two ways: the planks are placed vertically or horizontally. Each fastening method has its own characteristics:

• Vertical installation. It is fast and easy to install, condensate easily rolls down the slots on the back side of the planks (but also easily rises through the capillaries of the wood), the tongue-and-groove lock is protected from moisture penetration. Due to the vertical arrangement of the slats, it is easier for heated air to circulate inside the steam room.
• Horizontal laying. When fastened with the tenon facing up, the lock is also protected from moisture; air circulation between the sheathing and insulation is better due to the fact that the sheathing slats are located vertically. With a horizontal lining, if necessary, you can replace water-damaged planks located near the floor without touching the rest of the lining.

Vertical fastening of the lining is suitable for saunas with dry steam, horizontal fastening is more functional for a Russian bath with high humidity. But in general, the choice is determined by personal preferences.

Installation of sheathing

When sheathing the inside of the bathhouse, the first step is to install the sheathing under the lining. For the sheathing frame it is used wooden beam, treated with fire-bioprotective impregnation. Please note: the timber should not be pine or spruce (this wood emits pungent resin odors when heated), the composition for protective treatment a specialized one is selected that does not highlight harmful substances at high temperatures.

If the lining will be mounted vertically, the sheathing slats are mounted horizontally; for horizontally directed cladding, a vertical frame is required. The step of fastening the elements is 40-60 cm.

Before the stage of installation of the casing, it is necessary to lay the wiring to the places where the lamps are installed, to the socket for electrical sauna stove etc. The wires are mounted in moisture-proof, non-flammable corrugated casings.

Installation of lining

The interior lining of the bathhouse is carried out using hidden fasteners, because:

• It is easy to get burned on the open caps of metal fasteners;
• Poor-quality hardware rusts when exposed to moisture and stains spoil appearance wood;
• open fastening (for safety, the caps are recessed into the wood) worsens the appearance of the room.

Clips and small nails are used as hidden fasteners. If you decide to use self-tapping screws, it is recommended to close the holes into which the heads are recessed with wooden plugs, which complicates installation.

Headlining

Considering how to sheathe correctly bath room, you should pay attention to the order of work. The ceiling is finished first, since the wall planks must rest against the horizontal cladding.

The planks are installed starting from the wall with front door. There should be a gap of 40-50 mm between the ends of the finishing elements and the walls, which is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood (the ceiling heats up the most as it rises towards it). hot air) and for high-quality ventilation between the cladding and the walls.

The planks are fastened using clamps. The last board is secured using finishing nails without a head, which are driven in using a hammer so as not to damage the wooden plank.

Wall cladding

Installation of the lining begins from one of the corners of the room. The fastening of the boards is standard: the edge of the first board is fixed with hidden nails, the clamps press the edge of the groove to the sheathing, and the ridge of the next element is inserted into the groove.

The upper ends are adjusted to the ceiling point-blank. It is necessary to leave a gap of 20-30 mm between the floor and the wall cladding in the steam room to prevent rotting of the lower part of the cladding. At vertical installation moisture rises through the capillaries by 40-50 cm, with horizontal panels - by 20-25 cm.

Finishing the inside with clapboard washing department, the gap between the floor and the casing is increased to 40-50 mm.

The sheathing in the steam room should not rest against adjacent walls - a gap is required to compensate for the expansion of wood under the influence of temperature and high humidity. Also, the lamellas themselves should not be joined together as tightly as possible, point-blank.

To create the required gap between the slats, the following method is used:

1. The ridge of the plank is driven into the groove of the previous one until it stops.
2. Marks are made along the seam line with a sharp object.
3. The bar moves a few millimeters relative to the marks.
4. The verticality of the lamella is checked, after which it can be fixed with clamps.

If you join the seams of the ceiling and wall cladding, finishing the bathhouse inside with clapboard will look impressive.

Installation of additional elements

The outer and inner corners and baseboards are fastened using finishing nails without heads, which are recessed into the wood. Places for installing fasteners are polished sandpaper so that there are no rough edges left.

The slopes of the doorway can also be sheathed with clapboard, cutting it to size. To frame the openings, platbands made of the same wood as the door are used.

If the bath is installed wooden windows, to decorate the slopes, you can use lining; the gaps between the junction of the wall sheathing and the window opening in this case are closed with decorative strips or lining for the lining.

Finishing near the stove in the steam room

Lining is a flammable material and should not be adjacent to a sauna stove. The corner of the stove or part of the wall around the built-in stove is lined with stone or brick, or a screen is mounted from sheet metal, under which a non-flammable sheet heat insulator is laid.

Contact should also not be allowed wood paneling With chimney– in the place where the chimney passes through the wall or ceiling, a “coupling” made of non-flammable fiber heat insulator is mounted and a metal apron is attached.

Final work

Finishing the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard includes the stage of material processing special compounds, preventing wood from rotting and changing color under the influence of external factors.

The steam room and washing room, decorated with wood, and the dressing room are treated with compounds for water based or wax based. The environmental friendliness of protective equipment is important.

Lamps are mounted on the ceiling or walls and covered with decorative wooden grilles. Ventilation holes are equipped with valves - they are also easy to install with your own hands.

Features of shrink finishing

How to line the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands if the log house was built recently? For complete shrinkage wooden bath It takes at least 3 years, but I want to start using it as soon as possible. To solve the problem, use special technology mounting sliding internal lining.

When arranging the sheathing frame, sliding guides are used - metal elements in the form of corners with a slot allow the sheathing to move as the frame shrinks. This eliminates the risk of deformation of the inner lining.

A gap of 20-30 mm is left between the ceiling and the wall cladding for shrinkage. The gap is covered with a plinth fixed to the ceiling.

To cover a bathhouse with clapboard without extra financial expenses, it is recommended:

• apply material different varieties and species - for the dressing room, the requirements for the type of lining are much lower; the use of cheaper coniferous wood, including 2 grades, is allowed;
• buy lining of different lengths - short slats are cheaper, and where long slats are not required, you can use them;
• for finishing the washing area, use alternative inexpensive options finishing, including PVC panels.

Smart choice finishing material and adherence to the technology for installing internal cladding make it possible to finish the bathhouse yourself, saving on the involvement of specialists - the services of professionals require an increase in the construction budget.