How to make plasterboard ceilings. How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. What to do with two-level ceilings

Finishing ceiling area traditionally plunges the homeowner into the abyss of doubts and contradictions. Today, a variety of materials and technologies, design possibilities so diverse that it is quite difficult to decide on something specific.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings

Drywall is one of the materials that is highly popular among the Russian population. Undoubtedly, Plasterboard ceilings also have disadvantages, because nothing ideal exists in the world. Let's remember them without any secrets, so that your decision to hang drywall over your head is conscious:

lack of elasticity (unlike PVC ceiling film);
quite high flammability (in the event of fires, plasterboard supports the flame);
incompatibility with water (plasterboard is contraindicated in basements, in bathrooms, etc.).

However, new technologies from manufacturers delight the user with fire resistance and water resistance and some modifications designed specifically for rooms with high humidity and an increased ignition factor. Stores offer standard, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant plasterboard.

Advantages:

Tools and materials for the work ahead

Prepare your tools in advance to avoid distractions and fuss. List of names different masters is somewhat different, because in the repair and construction business, as you know, a lot is decided by dexterity, the ability to use what you have, and not depend on frills. However, there is the main thing, without which the upcoming work is unlikely to be successful:

drywall;
seam tape (“serpyanka”);
guide profiles;
powerful dowels for attaching profiles to walls;
ceiling profiles;
self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to profiles;
roulette;
construction knife;
hammer;
ceiling suspensions;
anchor bolts for attaching suspensions to the ceiling;
docking “crabs”;
safety glasses, anti-dust mask (respirator);
laser or hydraulic level for measuring the entire room;
bubble level (ideally if its length is 2 meters) for measuring areas;
screwdriver;
a hammer drill with a drill (it will be needed for dowel fastening of profiles to walls and ceilings);
metal scissors.

This is the minimum you can’t do without. The list may also include additional elements taking into account the characteristics of the “native” ceiling in the room. For example, if the composition of the floors is hard, coarsely mixed concrete, in which there are hard stones that prevent normal drilling of holes for fastening screws. Or, let's say you want to install a complex multi-level ceiling. Then you need clamps and fasteners to connect the supporting profiles to different heights. And so on.

Preparing the frame - measurements and fastening

Working with a guide frame

Step 1. Find the most low angle indoors, measuring all the corners, and ideally also the center. We use a tape measure. In the corner that turns out to be the lowest, put a mark:

7-9 cm from the ceiling if you plan to install built-in lamps;
by 4-5 cm if there are no built-in lamps.

Step 2. We arm ourselves with a hydraulic level and mark all other corners at the same height as the first mark on the lowest corner. Then, using a hydraulic level, we place several marks along the walls at the same level as the first point at each corner, connect them to each other - draw them with a pencil or chalk.

Use a ruler, a perfectly straight block or a stretched cord to keep the line straight. A simpler option is to not draw, but to point out a guide line for attaching the profile.

Step 3. Attach the guide profile to the walls. If there are supposed to be joining seams on the purlins between the corners (and this cannot be avoided in large rooms), it is necessary to ensure further “movement” of adjacent fragments under the weight of the entire ceiling structure. We use pieces of dense material - plywood, tin or plastic - and, placing them over the joining seam, attach them to the walls using high-strength dowels.

Sometimes in such situations they use a special sealing tape, but it is not always at hand, and not all stores sell such goods in all regions. We do the same (sealing and fastening with dowels to the wall) at the corners of the profile.

Video - Installation of a frame from profiles and hangers

We work with the main ceiling profile

Step 1. The most common dimensions of drywall are 1.2 x 2.5 m (we will say this is the standard). It is recommended to install ceiling profiles every 0.4 m - this way, each sheet will be secured at the edges and twice in the middle. Therefore, we mark the ceiling with a bright pencil or chalk with lines in 40-centimeter increments.

Step 2. At the transverse junction of the sheets (that is, every 2.5 m), we install jumpers from the same profile. At non-standard sizes drywall, accordingly, we calculate the distances individually for a specific size. We fix the joints with “crabs”.

Step 3. Determine the location of the hangers: a distance of 25 cm from the first wall, then every 50 cm, and so on until the end of the ceiling area. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling using anchor bolts(dowels are not suitable, because they do not have threads and, under the weight of the structure, over time they will inevitably be slowly “pulled out” due to attraction to the ground).

Step 4. Attach the ceiling profiles to the suspensions. We start the procedure from the corners of the room. Now our frame is ready.

Initially remember important nuances: plasterboard sheet is sensitive to deformation, temperature and humidity changes during storage. Store it only in a horizontal position, and also before installation work the material should “rest” for a couple of days in the room where it will be installed - this will adapt the structure of the drywall to the local temperature and humidity conditions.

Sequence of actions:

We calculate the material consumption in advance;
we cut the necessary parts for those places where less than a whole sheet is needed;
construction knife remove the chamfer on the edge so as to further ensure good penetration putty in the gap;
We start attaching the sheets to the ceiling profile from the wall and from the corner, placing the screw 10-15 cm from the edge and 20 cm from each other;

Attention! Be sure to “recess” the screw heads into the sockets and check them by touch. On adjacent sheets we place the screws not against each other, but staggered;

make sure that there is a small gap around the perimeter (1.5-2 mm);
We make sure that sheet to sheet is joined with a shift of at least one cell;
We make sure that each sheet is attached at the edges and in the center.

Final stage

Seams need attention special attention, because the quality of their sealing depends appearance future ceiling.

Important points:

When working with dust, primer, putty and paint, do not forget to use protective equipment. Wear goggles, a respirator, a mask. Taking precautions will keep you healthy and enhance your enjoyment of the plasterboard ceiling you install yourself.

The advent of drywall made a real revolution in construction. significantly reduced the time required for repairs and finishing works. It became possible to reliably hide defects in the old ceiling and hide any communications (ventilation, pipes, wiring).

Straight U-shaped suspension
Cross connector for profile or crab
Straight connector for ceiling profile

To connect profiles with hangers and connectors, galvanized self-tapping screws with a drill 12 mm long (seeds) are used. To attach the frame to walls and floor slabs, 6 x 40 mm dowels are used.

For plating metal frame use (gypsum plasterboard) plasterboards for the ceiling. They have the following dimensions:

Length 2500 mm
Width 1200 mm
Thickness 8-9.5 mm

The color of the plasterboard ceiling slabs is grey. The ceiling and walls made of plasterboard cannot be sheathed with the same materials. Plates with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used only for wall decoration.

Important to know! If your premises are located in climatic zone with high humidity, then in this case it is recommended to use moisture-resistant drywall. Its cardboard cover has a greenish color.

How to correctly calculate materials for a suspended ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard

To calculate the UD-27 guide profile, it is necessary to divide the perimeter of the room. Measure the length of each wall with a tape measure, and add up the numbers - this will be the required amount of guide profile.

Pay attention! It is necessary to measure each wall. The room may have the wrong geometric shape as a result of poor quality construction or finishing.

Or the supporting profile can be calculated as follows: the first and last at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the distance between the remaining profiles is 600 mm or less. The remaining supporting profiles are attached to the ceiling at intervals of 600 mm. The number of CD-60 profiles is equal to the number of their rows multiplied by the length of the room.

The supporting profile is mounted to the ceiling using U-shaped direct hangers. They are attached to the ceiling along the axis of the profile in increments of 1 m. To find out their number, you need to divide the total length of the CD-60 profile by 1 m.

To ensure the rigidity of the frame, jumpers from the CD-60 profile are installed between the load-bearing profiles and the UD-27 guide profiles. This is done in increments of 600 mm.

The number of cross-shaped connectors for jumpers is equal to the total length of the supporting profile divided by the fastening pitch or 0.6 m. Straight connectors are used to connect the CD-60 and UD-27 profiles along the length. Their number is calculated based on the length of the room.

Example: if the length of the room is 5 m, there are 6 rows of ceiling profiles, then there should be 6 connections accordingly.

The number of plasterboard ceiling tiles is equal to the ceiling area. However, a certain margin is required to compensate for the consumption of material when cutting to size. The drywall is secured to the frame with black self-tapping screws 25-45 mm long.

Important to know! When purchasing drywall, add 3-5% to the ceiling area obtained in calculations. This compensates for the technological costs of drywall.

What tools to use for installation

To install a suspended ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard and its subsequent finishing, the following set of tools is required:

Laser or water level
Chop dye painting thread
Rule with a level of 1.5 m
Electric impact drill or hammer drill
Concrete drill with a diameter of 6 mm.
A set of wood crowns (if recessed spotlights will be used)
Screwdriver
Construction angle 90 degrees
Grinder or hacksaw for metal
Tape measure and pencil
Hammer
Metal scissors
Container for mixing putty
Wide roller for priming the ceiling
Attachment for mixing solutions on a drill (whisk)
Spatula wide and narrow

Marking the future ceiling

The markup is intended to define horizontal plane future ceiling. It is performed using a laser or water level. Marks are placed on the walls along the perimeter and they are connected using a painting thread.

The level of the plasterboard ceiling can be lowered arbitrarily. Minimum height 3 cm (thickness of the ceiling profile), and if recessed spotlights are used, then lowered to the height of the lighting fixture + 1 cm.

The axes of the supporting profiles are applied to the ceiling. Marks are placed on them for U-shaped suspensions in increments of 1 m. The UD-27 guide profile is attached along the line marked on the walls with dowels. U-shaped hangers are attached to points on the ceiling with dowels. The perforated legs of the suspension are lowered down at an angle of 90 degrees.

Mounted to suspensions ceiling profile. Two 12 mm self-tapping screws are screwed onto each leg. Cross-shaped connectors are attached to CD-60 profiles at intervals of 600 mm. Jumpers from the ceiling profile are mounted to them.

Jumpers are also installed between the guide and supporting profile. Fastening is done with 12 mm self-tapping screws. This is done using a drill, hammer and screwdriver.

Lighting wiring installation

Lighting lines are placed in corrugated plastic pipe with a diameter of 15-25 mm and plastic clamps are attached to the shelf. Loops 25-30 cm long are left in the right places for the lamps. This length is optimal for subsequent connection of the lamps.

After assembling the frame, drywall is installed. Installation begins from any corner by installing a whole sheet on the frame. Drywall is secured using black self-tapping screws 25-45 mm long. When fastening, you can focus on the “X” marks applied to the gypsum board sheet by the manufacturer.

The technology of plasterboard ceilings requires installing gypsum plasterboard sheets with an offset similar to brickwork. The offset of the sheets must be at least one profile.

The first step is to install entire sheets. The remaining windows are sewn up with cut pieces. Use a wood bit to drill holes for spotlights and loops of lighting wires are brought out into them.

All joints are covered with reinforcing mesh. On one side it has an adhesive surface. After this, all joints are puttied with a special putty for joints.

If you use regular gypsum putty, there is a risk of cracks appearing at the joint.

When the putty has dried, apply the putty over the entire area of the ceiling. After it dries, it is grouted and sanded with an abrasive mesh and sandpaper. After this, you can apply paint or wallpaper to the ceiling. The video below: a plasterboard ceiling will help you become more familiar with the process.

In a short time, drywall has transformed from a material of little use in repairs into one of the most in demand. Columns, arches, multi-level ceilings, false fireplaces - the lightness of the material in work allows the master’s imagination to unfold in full force. Even a beginner can make a plasterboard sheet, while following all the recommendations and rules.

Peculiarities

A suspended ceiling is a single-level or multi-level metal frame, fixed to the ceilings and walls of the room, lined with gypsum board slabs. A prerequisite is also the presence of lighting sources built into it.

First of all, you need to decide what a sheet of drywall is. Without going into details, we can explain it this way: this is a sheet of dry plaster, covered with cardboard on top.

Despite its apparent simplicity, the material has a lot of impressive advantages:

With the help of gypsum plasterboard you can level out very significant bumps and depressions on the ceiling without spending significant effort. To do this, you need to take a liquid solution - and the advantage becomes even more obvious.
Inside the frame, on which the sheets of drywall are attached, you can hide any wires and connect all the desired communications, while leaving them invisible to the eye. And this is a big plus, from an aesthetic point of view.

Any desired lighting can be mounted in a ceiling made of this material, which allows you to achieve completely unique lighting effects.
Drywall sheets make possible creation multi-level ceiling, bringing the owner's fantasy to life.

Due to free space Additional noise and heat insulation can be installed in the frame. It is enough just to lay an additional layer of mineral wool between the ceiling and the false ceiling.
GKL is installed without the use of liquid, dry, which guarantees a minimum amount of dust and dirt.

It is quite possible to carry out all activities related to drywall with your own hands. This means you can do it at minimal cost original design in accordance with your ideas.

Of course, it cannot be said that drywall is a material without drawbacks. Of course, they exist, but they relate more to the editing of the material than to the material itself.

For example:

Due to the fact that when installing a gypsum board ceiling, a frame is used, the ceiling height is reduced. And, if the ceilings are already low, this can become a problem.

If you don’t have the skills to work with this material, then you can tinker with the frame for quite a long time: it will be difficult to do the installation alone, it is better to enlist the help of a partner.
The technology of the finishing process must not be violated, otherwise high probability Cracks will appear in the seams and between them.

Device

GKL slabs offer the widest range of possibilities for creating a ceiling.

The main components of a plasterboard ceiling are the following materials:

GKL sheets. They are selected depending on the room in which the ceiling is installed, as well as the functionality of the sheet. Therefore, it is advisable to install moisture-resistant gypsum boards in the bathroom, and fire-resistant ones are perfect for the kitchen.
Profile for the frame, that is, the base on which plasterboard sheets are attached. It ensures the stability of the entire structure. Profiles are divided into two types: starting and supporting. The starting profile runs along the perimeter of the ceiling, and gypsum plasterboard slabs are attached to the supporting structures.

Metal hangers on which profiles are attached. It is possible to use conventional hangers or hangers with a bracket.
Dowels and screws for drywall.
Finishing materials: reinforcing tape, putty, primer, fine-grained sandpaper, which is used to level the ceiling after putty.

Species

A suspended ceiling can be installed in many different configurations. Nevertheless, there are three main types, the rest are the basis for more complex options.

Ceilings can be:

single-level;
simple two- or three-level;
complex.

Most budget option is, of course, an easy-to-install and inexpensive single-level ceiling. One way or another, its installation levels the surface of the ceiling, making it easy to decorate.

Based on the first level, the next ones are built - this way differences in ceiling height are created.

Multi-level surfaces can also be classified into the following categories:

frame;
diagonal;
zonal;
complex ceilings of other shapes.

The frame structure is represented by a gypsum plasterboard box located in the form of a frame along the perimeter of the ceiling surface. A chandelier hanging in the center of the ceiling will fit harmoniously into the composition.

IN diagonal design each subsequent level divides the ceiling along a conditionally drawn diagonal, and not necessarily in a straight line: it can be a wave or an arc. Either way, it makes half the room stand out. Since gypsum board is flexible material, then forming a curly line will not be difficult.

Zonal design highlights a specific area, highlighting work area or a relaxation area.

Complex structures can be given different shapes: arched, patterned, figured. The shape can also be like a flower, geometric figure or spirals. It all depends on the imagination of the owner and the style in which it is decided to arrange the room.

Design

The design of a gypsum board ceiling can have an endless number of options.

There are a number of nuances:

If the room is spacious and has sufficient height, then it is possible to arrange a multi-level ceiling and decorate it, for example, by laying out molded baguettes, friezes, medallions, and ovals. It is beautiful if the pattern on the parquet duplicates the pattern of the ceiling surface.
If the room has a large area, then it can be zoned, highlighting, for example, a relaxation area with a home theater or a dining area. In these cases, it is also good to provide appropriate lighting for each area with the ability to turn it on and off separately - the room will look even more impressive.

If the room is small and low, then it is better not to pile up multi-level structures in it - one level will be enough. There is no need for large lampshades or a chandelier with pendants. Spotlights mounted into the ceiling surface will look most harmonious.
A cornice will add “air” to the space of the room if you make it small and run it around the perimeter of the ceiling.
This technique will help to visually enlarge the room: paint the surfaces of the ceiling and walls in one color, preferably in a light color scheme.
After consulting with an interior designer, you can consider installing a mirror on the ceiling.

There is another way to visually “raise” the ceiling: by combining them in the interior of one room. stretch ceiling with a shiny, glossy surface and a suspended structure made of gypsum plasterboard.
The ceiling should not differ in style from the rest of the interior of the room. For example, in a room made in Provence style, a ceiling with a mirror surface will look strange.
The most original type of ceiling made from gypsum plasterboards is arched. The easiest arched ceiling to perform is semi-cylindrical. The main condition is to correctly install the base for the ceiling.

There are four main ceiling design options:

single-level;
two-level;
three-level;
figured (this includes arches).

Single-level ceilings simple and reliable. For small rooms this is the best option.

You can decorate it in the following ways:

paint in different colors;
cover with putty;
paint by hand;
cover with wallpaper.

If the walls in the room are below 3 meters, then it is better to use light shades. Dark or bright colors can visually reduce an already small space.

Despite the fact that the ceiling is called single-level, it should not have a perfect flat surface. You can make the level convex or concave, which will give a completely unusual effect. It should be noted that this type of suspended ceiling is the easiest to do with your own hands.

The most popular option is a two-level one; as for the three-level one, it is quite difficult to implement.

The two-level ceiling provides many of the most variety of options, with their help you can give different shapes ceiling surface, and lighting can add even more originality to the design. It is not difficult to build such a ceiling, but it still requires some effort.

If the height of the ceiling allows, you can make something like a “reflection”: place a ledge on the ceiling above a similar podium structure on the floor.

Constructions made from gypsum boards, accompanied by thoughtful lighting, can look incredibly impressive. A flight of design thought can create original compositions: waves, a combination of matte and glossy surfaces, zigzags and ovals, hand-painted, 3D wallpaper (“wooden”, “sky”, “sea and palm trees”). Of course, the design is not limited to one game of levels and colors, without backlighting desired effect no way to achieve it. And here LEDs and halogen, chandeliers and shades, mirrors and spotlights come into play.

Multi-tiered structures have an extremely attractive appearance. It is best to build them in a room with high and very high ceilings, for example, in a private house, since they “eat up” a significant part of the height of the room. Making them is more difficult than, for example, a two-tier structure, and since drywall is an extremely easy-to-work material, it may take a little more time, but the result will be a stunning effect.

Stepped elements from gypsum plasterboard can be made according to individual order, hiding in them, for example, ceiling beams or ventilation hood. It’s not even worth mentioning the built-in lighting sources - they are prerequisite multi-tiered fantasy ceiling structure.

A figured suspended ceiling requires considerable skill in its design and installation, however, non-standard elements (flower, solar system, clouds, starry sky) will appeal to everyone. Drywall has properties that allow you to create the desired figure or figures from it: you can build a structure from intertwined abstract shapes, this looks especially good in rooms with a large area. Expensive, but effective solution– patterns with small cells. The “roll call” with small inclusions of similar patterns on the walls will give such a ceiling a special chic.

An interesting option is the so-called floating ceiling. To create it, you need to select the shape (silhouette) that will be located under the ceiling. It is made separately from gypsum boards and attached to an already finished structure. This creates the appearance that the ceiling element is floating in the air. As a rule, this method is combined with illumination of the “floating” element around the perimeter, which gives an additional effect to the design.

Installation

Once the preparation of the ceiling surface is completed, it is time to begin installation. It is important to strictly follow the sequence of actions and technologies necessary to carry out each step.

Ceilings made from gypsum plasterboards can be:

hemmed;
suspension.

In a hemmed structure, plasterboard sheets are attached to the ceiling surface using a wooden beam or bent profile, which is called filing. This great option for rooms with low ceiling height. It is also well suited for installation in a home where wooden floors. The disadvantage of this type is the impossibility of hemming sheets of drywall so well as to obtain a perfectly flat surface.

For a suspended ceiling, gypsum plasterboard slabs are mounted on a frame made of profiles mounted on hangers. This design is ideal for hiding ventilation, wires, and lighting.

It is most convenient to cut sheets of drywall if they are positioned vertically and leaned against the wall.

Work on installing a suspended ceiling begins with the installation of the frame.

The secrets of this stage are described in step-by-step instructions:

After the markings on the ceiling are made, the guide profile (already drilled) is attached to the walls. Its edge is attached to the marking line. Below this mark the frame elements will be located. This important step, if you decide to do the ceiling yourself.
Having covered the guide profiles with sealing tape, they are secured to the dowels. Dowels should be screwed in advance.

Attaching hangers every 0.5 m. The initial step from the wall is 0.25 m. You need to attach the hangers to anchors. It is important to take into account that drilling generates dust, so it is better to carry out all this work while wearing safety glasses and a respirator. When the hangers are fixed, their edges need to be folded.
The next step is to install the ceiling profile. After installation, it must be fixed to the guide. Self-tapping screws without a drill will help with this.
After this, you need to make jumpers - they strengthen the structure. It is imperative to check the position of the profiles using a level. The jumpers are fixed using “crabs”.

If insulation is necessary, then mineral wool is placed in the jumpers. It has both thermal insulation properties and absorbs noise. Working with mineral wool also requires the use of a respirator; in addition, gloves are required.
The installation of the sheathing is completed, the next thing to do is wiring the electrical cable. The wires must be in a corrugated sleeve - under no circumstances should communication parts be allowed to press or hang down on the frame.

After this, you can begin covering the frame with gypsum board slabs. All sheets must be pre-prepared: in a lying position, they must be stored for some time in the very room where they will be mounted. In addition, holes must be made in them for lamps.
Sheathing with plasterboard begins from the corner, fastening occurs with self-tapping screws every 15 cm.
The sheets are not installed end-to-end: it is imperative to leave 4-5 mm between them.

The installation of the ceiling is completed, you can proceed to finishing, but only after the seams have been sealed. This is very important, because if the seams are sealed poorly, this can lead to cracks throughout the entire ceiling covering. You can do this using a sickle mesh or putty.

If the method of puttying seams is chosen, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

impregnation of joints with a primer containing acrylates;
when dry, dilute a putty mixture, for example, gypsum;
fill the seams with the mixture and smooth with a spatula (a wide one will do);
additionally do the same in the gaps between the sheets and the heads of the screws;

when dry, glue the serpyanka and putty;
apply finishing putty in a layer maximum 1.5 cm thick;
smooth out roughness with fine-grain sanding;
remove dust using a dry sponge or vacuum cleaner;
Apply primer with acrylic.

After this, surface repairs will not be needed for very long, and finishing work can begin.

Project. The properties of plasterboard are such that they allow you to create structures of any complexity. But the more complex the future design, the more accurate the calculations and plans should be. As with any other work, a project is needed to install a suspended ceiling. This includes graphic image, perhaps an estimate or list necessary materials, as well as the sequence of actions. In addition to the list of materials, you also need to calculate their required quantity.

A ceiling design made from gypsum plasterboards should ideally include:

A sketch (drawing) that contains an image future design. The sketch must be large-scale and in color.
The drawing is a reflection of all elements of the supporting structure. If there are two or more ceiling levels, the drawing may contain more than one sheet.
Calculation of materials. The more carefully it is compiled, the less likely it is that compliance with the installation technology will be violated.

If you plan to do the installation yourself, it is better to consult with professionals, taking the project with you. This will make it easier for them to find the error and point it out, which will help avoid losses in the quality of the future design.

When creating a sketch, you need to take into account the following constant positions:

room area;
ceiling height and shape;
colors of the floor and wallpaper, patterns on them;
the style in which the room is decorated;
design and dimensions of furniture in the room.

Having drawn a sketch, it is advisable to transfer it to tracing paper. Subsequently, the tracing paper will be superimposed on the frame drawing to refine the final design.

If you put everything listed on one sheet, the drawing will contain too much information and look overloaded.

In the case of planning a ceiling with one level, the cell of the sheathing is 0.5x0.6 m. If several tiers are planned or something massive will be placed on the ceiling, for example, a chandelier or a mirror, the cell size is reduced to 0.5x0.4 m. Similarly the distance between the hangers will decrease from 1 m to 0.5-0.6 m.

The drawing of the sheathing of the first tier should contain all the information about the attachment points and the passage of profiles, the bookmark for lamps, and the installation points of suspensions. This should also be contained in the drawings of all subsequent tiers.

After completing the drawings and adjusting the sketch by superimposing them on top of each other, you need to move on to calculations. They should take into account everything: from the number of sheets of drywall to cans of putty. In addition, if you plan to do the installation yourself, then a separate list must be drawn up, which should reflect the availability of the necessary tools.

Upon completion of the calculations, you need to transfer the graphic part of the project to the ceiling surface. The more accurately this is done, the more correct, smoother and stronger the future suspended ceiling will be. After marking the ceiling, you can get a rough idea of what the future object will look like. If it's not what you wanted, adjustments need to be made.

Preparation

Before starting work, you need to make a series preparatory activities on the ceiling surface, namely:

Clean off the old finishing layer. This can be done using, for example, a spatula.
Remove stains of mold, grease, rust, and fungus using special antiseptics.
Fill cracked areas with putty. For this purpose, it is better to use cement-based putty.
Prime the coating with a composition that contains an antiseptic (it would be correct to use “Kolorit” or “Lakru”). This condition is mandatory, otherwise stains on the ceiling will inevitably appear. In addition, this is one of the activities that helps level the surface.

After all these steps, the surface is ready. After waiting for the primer to dry, you need to turn off the power to the room in which you plan to install the ceiling, and you can begin installation.

Tools. Preparation of tools and devices is an important preparatory stage of work. Unfortunately, due attention is not always given to it, as a result of which work constantly has to be interrupted, since either there is not enough fittings or a tape measure at hand. Therefore, it is better to prepare everything you might need in advance and not be distracted while working.

To install a suspended ceiling, you need the following:

guide and ceiling profile;
U-shaped suspensions;
profile connectors or “crabs”;
dowels and screws, and best of all, anchors;
plasterboard sheets;

self-tapping screws (both for metal and for gypsum plasterboard);
sealing tape;
finishing material;
hydro- and heat-insulating material.

There are several rules that must be followed when carrying out repair or finishing work:

You should not try to save on materials, for example, on metal profiles. The cheaper it is, the thinner it is; accordingly, it will bend and hold the structure poorly. Having made the right choice, the master ensures the reliability and durability of the structure.
It’s good if the master has levels of two sizes: one up to 1 m high, the second 2-2.5 m. If available laser level and the skills to use it, then two levels will not be needed.
The thickness of the plasterboard sheets should not exceed 9 mm, otherwise a different frame (more rigid) and a different sequence of installation actions will be needed.
It is important to consider the purpose of the room in which the ceiling is installed and select the material taking it into account. For example, for installation in a bathroom, plasterboard sheets must be moisture-resistant, that is, ordinary gypsum boards will not be suitable.

Lighting

The choice of lighting for a suspended ceiling is very important point, because lamps can make a composition the “highlight” of the interior or completely kill it with their tasteless combination.

Typically they use recessed spotlights, then the lighting can be made multi-position. Most often they use halogen lamps, and the housing is metal, glass, brass or thermoplastic. In addition, the lamps can be painted in various sophisticated shades, such as polished and matte brass, bronze, matte or black chrome - this will make them even more attractive.

For illumination in background Multi-level ceiling surfaces use fluorescent lamps, sometimes neon and duralight.

As spotlights, lighting sources with halogen lamps are preferable, since when they are installed, the ceiling height does not decrease as much as when installing lamps with standard lamps - this is convenient when the ceilings in the room are already low.

Halogen lamps are classified as warm-toned lighting sources close to the white spectrum, and therefore do not distort the shades in the room. It is better not to touch the glass surface of the lamp with your hands - there is a high probability that they will remain greasy spots. This, in turn, will lead to the glass of the flask melting at the point of contact. It is better to use a clean cloth glove or just a clean cloth napkin for this.

When installing lamps, one should not forget about fire safety standards and regulations, for example, ensuring sufficient distance between the ceiling and the ceiling. When using a dimmer as a switch (in order to smoothly regulate the brightness of the lighting), there is no need to install protection on the lamps.

The selection of spotlights is carried out in accordance with the purpose of the room and the number of windows in it. LED or energy-saving lamps are best suited for this. Thanks to spotlights, the room can be divided into zones, for example, in a studio apartment.

Transformers are usually located behind gypsum plasterboards on a suspended ceiling; they can be accessed through lamp holes. It is better if there are several transformers in one room - one for a group of lamps. So, if one fails, the others will continue to work. The likelihood that all transformers will burn out at the same time is extremely small. In addition, one large and heavy transformer can cause too much pinpoint impact on the drywall sheets.

Transformers are divided into the following types:

induction;
electronic.

Induction ones are heavier, but more reliable and cheaper. Electronic ones are lighter, but more expensive and break more often.

The question “how many lamps will be needed to illuminate one room” is individual for each owner. This problem is easily resolved by sketching the future ceiling and marking it. To illuminate the living room in an average city apartment, an average of 12 lamps with a power of 50 W will be required. And it’s better if the switch has two or three buttons, thereby making it possible to adjust the intensity of lighting or highlight the area of the room where it is necessary.

Also interesting solution There will be a dimmer installed to regulate the overall brightness of the lighting in the room. It's functional as well as beautiful. In addition, the dimmer will reduce energy consumption by more than half and increase the life of halogen lamps. This is because the lamp operates under milder temperature conditions, as it heats up smoothly and gradually decreases brightness.

Of course, installing spotlights together with halogen lamps will be more expensive, but later this will create significant energy savings.

To mount a suspended ceiling with lighting sources, you need to mark sheets of drywall for the holes for them, and then start drilling using an electric drill with a crown attachment. It is necessary to drill holes only after the purchase of lamps has taken place, since standard size there are no holes. Puttying is only possible after all holes have been drilled.

LED lighting is divided into the following types:

dome;
linear;
directional light LEDs;
LED panels.

For background illumination of multi-level ceiling surfaces, white fluorescent lamps are mostly used. Such lamps are placed next to each other so as not to interrupt the light surface on the ceiling. Taking this into account, you can calculate how many lamps you will need. As a result, the lighting should be soft, diffused, and comfortable for the eyes.

If the perimeter of the ceiling surface is too large and you need a lot of lamps, you can use alternative options. For example, duralight, which is a bendable plastic light cord-tube. Miniature incandescent lamps assembled into a garland are pressed into it. For an apartment, you can use the “fixing” modification - it glows continuously.

Duralight is cheap, easy to install, durable, available large selection colors, does not require a large “canopy” in the ceiling for installation, and consumes a small amount of electricity. The downside may be poor lighting, but this can easily be corrected by wrapping it two or three times instead of once.

Speaking about electroluminescent wire (cold neon), it should be noted that it is essentially a flexible cord made of polyvinyl chloride, into which a current-carrying wire is hermetically installed. This cord is easy to cut and solder - this is its difference from duralight. It is durable and can be laid out in configurations different forms, at night its light is dazzlingly beautiful, in the daytime it is invisible. The scope of its application is very wide.

Electrical wiring must be installed in compliance with a number of necessary conditions:

This must be done before finishing work begins, before installing sheets of drywall on the sheathing.
Like any other electrical installation work, you should start by developing a plan that will indicate what type of wiring will be installed, draw a diagram with the required number of switches, as well as distribution boxes, sockets and other devices. Also, the diagram should indicate places for their installation in such a way that they are convenient to use.

The connection of wires in places where they are broken must be connected only through an adapter block - twisting is unacceptable, especially for wires made of copper or aluminum.
The wires must be marked.
Wires should not come into contact with metal. They can only be laid near pipelines, for example, with gas, at a distance of at least 40 cm.
Laying wires in bundles is prohibited. In addition, it is prohibited to lay wires if the gaps are less than 3 mm between each.
Wires in rooms can only be connected and branched using junction and branch boxes.

IN modern trends decor does not imply the use of chandeliers with pendants to illuminate the room. Nevertheless there is successful examples classical style solution when a chandelier is very appropriate. But, having decided to hang it, you need to take care of strengthening the ceiling structure in the place where this will happen, since gypsum board slabs are not designed to withstand such weight.

Subtleties of operation and care

It is not difficult to care for a gypsum board ceiling. To ensure that it does not lose its attractiveness for a long time, you need to periodically wipe it with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. If there is a lot of dust, then you can vacuum the ceiling, first making sure that the brush is clean. If in doubt, it is advisable to wash the brush with soap and dry thoroughly. If you neglect this, the brush may leave dark lines on the ceiling.

Lighting sources (whether chandeliers or lamps) also require care. They need to be wiped with a dry, clean cloth, remembering that they are live. If a yellowish coating has formed around the lamps, it can be removed with a special felt-tip pen.

Stains of dust and dirt are removed with a slightly damp cloth or viscose napkin. If the contamination is severe, you can try using dishwashing detergent, and if there are large stains, it is better to refresh the paint layer on the ceiling surface.

To avoid mistakes common to beginners, it is important to consider some features of drywall:

In order for the plaster to release unnecessary moisture, it must rest. That is why some time must pass between the delivery of gypsum plaster boards to the room where installation will take place and the installation itself. Otherwise, the sheets may become deformed.
Work with drywall should be carried out in a room whose temperature is constant and not lower than +10 C. In addition, gypsum board slabs must be kept in these temperature conditions for at least 4 days - two days before installation and two days after; only after 2 days can they be sealed seams.
The main rule is that before cutting, drilling or screwing anything, you need to check and calculate everything. It is not in vain that the installation of a suspended ceiling includes such important stage like design. Only after completing all the calculations, combining the sketch and drawings, and marking the ceiling itself, you need to proceed to action.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Two-level geometric plasterboard ceiling with spot lighting and LED panels.

Original ceiling in the shape of a flower. The lighting goes along the entire perimeter.

A two-level ceiling, the lighting of which combines a chandelier and lamps.

A structure such as a plasterboard ceiling is ideal solution for arrangement of premises of any type. This material is extremely popular in construction and repair work. A gypsum board ceiling has many advantages over other types of finishing. First of all, it is an opportunity to hide the curvature and other defects of the floor slab.

Ceiling plasterboard is environmentally friendly pure material, which is completely harmless to humans. The finished surface is perfectly flat, without the slightest hint of sagging or differences in height. The opening between the drywall and the supporting board can accommodate electrical wires, telecommunications cables and a ventilation system.

At correct processing plasterboard ceilings can not only be painted and wallpapered, but also finished ceramic tiles And mirror panels. Let's look at how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, without hiring hired labor?

During construction and repairs, any type of gypsum plasterboard can be used for the ceiling. However, it is advisable to stop at ceiling version. Plasterboard for the ceiling has a smaller thickness (9 mm), which makes the sheets lighter and easier to work with. The decision about which plasterboard is best for the ceiling should be made only after assessing the conditions in which the suspended structure will be used.

Types and use of gypsum boards for ceilings

When finishing various rooms, you can sheathe the ceiling with the following types of plasterboard:

ordinary. This material is used for cladding office, residential and office premises, where constant temperature and humidity are maintained. External covering Such products are gray in color and have blue markings. This sheet is lightweight, which allows you to save on frame material and reduce the load on the floor slab. Standard ceiling plasterboard is produced in the form of slabs 120 cm wide, 250 and 300 cm high. Ordinary gypsum board bends well when wetted and retains its given shape after drying. A figured box and steps made from it look very impressive;
moisture resistant. Silicone and antifungal drugs are used in the manufacture of filler for this material. To resist dampness, the mixture is placed in special impregnated cardboard. It must be taken into account that waterproof boards do not absorb moisture at all. Therefore, it will not be possible to give them a curved shape. Install waterproof slabs in rooms with high levels of humidity or in apartments where there is a high risk of flooding from the upper floors. The outer surface of this finishing material has a green color;
fire resistant. Fire resistance is achieved by adding special reinforcing additives to the material and impregnating it with antipyrine. A suspended ceiling is made from fire-resistant material in rooms where there should be increased level fire safety. These can be cash registers, archives, panel and bank vaults. Manufacturers paint fireproof sheets in pink or gray with red markings.

Having considered the plasterboard models that can be used in work, it is worth dwelling on how a plasterboard ceiling is made. It's pretty simple work, which even a beginner can do, it is important to review the manual for working with the material.

Tools and materials

The manufacture of a suspended structure from plasterboard sheets is an activity that does not require the use of professional equipment.

To install gypsum board on the ceiling you will need the following tools:

perforator;
screwdriver;
metal scissors;
building level;
hammer;
roulette;
plane;
square;
marker;
wide and narrow steel spatula;
mixer for mixing the solution;
set of drills and crowns.

In order to protect your respiratory organs and eyes from dust, you need to purchase a respirator and safety glasses. Since the work will be carried out at height, you will need stable trestles or a stepladder.

To find out required quantity material, we advise you to use our

Calculation building materials carried out on the basis of a prepared project. It indicates the type of structure (single-level, multi-level), frame diagrams, electrical wiring, location of plasterboard sheets and insulation, location and type of lamps, sensors and other devices.

To make plasterboard ceilings with your own hands, you will need the following materials and equipment:

starting and finishing putty;
mounting plastic tape;
metal screws;
breaker cord;
sandpaper;
abrasive mesh;
liquid primer;
plasterboard sheets.

Before making a ceiling from plasterboard slabs, they must be allowed to lie indoors for several days. This is necessary so that the material acquires humidity and temperature appropriate for working conditions.

Preparatory activities

Despite the fact that gypsum boards completely cover the floor slab, it is necessary to take measures to preventive maintenance and conservation. If this is not done, then leaks and the development of fungus and mold are quite possible. Underestimating the preparation of the load-bearing slab for installation can lead to the most unpleasant consequences, such as the colonization of the space between the ceilings by rodents and insects.

Before you start making plasterboard ceilings, you must complete the following steps:

If you are renovating your house, check the condition of the roof and rafters. If necessary, restore the roof;
remove from the room all interior items that may be damaged during the renovation process. Cover the remaining items with plastic protective film;
remove all communications, sensors and lighting fixtures from the base plate. Assess the condition of the electrical wiring. If necessary, replace it;
remove dilapidated finishing and fragments of the floor slab that are not firmly attached to it. Clean out cracks and holes;
repair all existing defects in the load-bearing slab cement mortar or synthetic sealant. Treat its surface with an antiseptic and deep penetration primer.

Immediately after the primer has dried, further work can begin. During their implementation, it is necessary to strictly perform all stages of activity in a certain sequence. Step by step instructions for each phase of work will help to make repairs efficiently and quickly.

Construction of a frame for drywall

The most practical and reliable option for creating a frame is to use steel profile. The profile is equipped with extensions and connectors various configurations and appointments. This allows you to assemble both smooth and complex suspended structures on the ceiling.

We make the frame from galvanized steel profile in the following sequence:

The height of the walls is measured in all corners of the room. In the lowest corner a mark is made 10 cm from the floor slab. From this mark a horizontal line is drawn along all walls. On the supporting slab, lines are drawn parallel to the wall at intervals of 60 cm;
Holes are drilled along the drawn line in increments of 30-40 cm. After the plastic dowels are inserted into them, the UD profile guides are screwed to the wall;
consolidation is carried out on ceiling slab vertical hangers. The fastening pitch should be within 60-80 cm;
blanks of the CD-bearing profile are sawed. Their length should be 35-40 mm shorter than the distance between the edges of the supporting profile;
the supporting profile is inserted into the openings of the guide profile. One end of it is rigidly fixed with a self-tapping screw. The supporting profile is secured in the hangers. After fixing with self-tapping screws, the edges of the suspension bend upward or break off. The self-tapping screw is screwed on the other end of the supporting profile;
The transverse parts are sawed and secured. A cross connector (crab) is used to secure them. The result of the work is a steel grid with cells 50x60 cm.

After checking the frame for strength, electrical wiring and communication lines are laid. Electrical wires must be laid in plastic PVC tube rigidly fixed to the floor slab.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

To secure a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you will need an assistant, since the sheets are quite large in size and weight. The work begins with installing a whole slab in one of the corners. Installation of gypsum boards is carried out in rows. Each subsequent row is fastened with an offset of 100 cm or 120 cm, depending on the choice of fastening direction. The last row is trimmed so that the cut edge faces the wall.

When covering a frame with plasterboard, you must adhere to the following rules:

joints of plasterboard sheets should be located only on the frame, otherwise sagging and cracks are inevitable;
Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the frame through the sheets over its entire area. The fixation interval should be 15 cm. The caps of hardware should be recessed into the surface of the gypsum board by 1 mm. In this case, it is necessary to control the screwing process so that the screws do not break through the cardboard shell of the plate;
It is necessary to leave a 2 mm gap between the masonry fragments. It is necessary for thermal expansion of the material;
It is best to cut drywall with a sharp utility knife. The cut is made along the front side of the slab. After this, it is moved to the edge of the table, where the excess is broken and cut off. Torn edges are smoothed with a plane.

After the installation of the plasterboard on the frame is completed, the quality of the work performed is checked. The protruding screws are tightened, and new hardware is screwed in next to the self-tapping screws that broke through the cardboard.

Plasterboard ceiling putty

Drywall itself cannot be the basis for finishing. Its surface and structure are too fragile for such a purpose. After attaching the slabs, there are many seams and indentations left by the screw heads.

Technology for applying putty between gypsum board sheets

We putty the drywall in the following sequence:

The surface of the plasterboard is cleaned of dust and small parts of gypsum. Identified defects are eliminated. The seams are treated with a primer;
The plaster solution is mixed. It is pressed forcefully into the joints and screw holes. Serpyanka tape is applied over the joints and embedded in the solution. It will prevent cracks from appearing;
The leveled surface is treated twice with a deep penetration primer. This is necessary in order to strengthen not only the outer shell of the gypsum board, but also its filler;
The drywall is coated with a starting putty solution. The solution is taken from the container with a narrow spatula and applied to a wide tool, with which the putty is applied to the surface with wide sweeping movements. All protrusions are immediately smoothed out;
The hardened starting putty is primed. After the soil has dried, the solution is applied finishing putty, which removes all irregularities;
the surface is treated with an abrasive mesh and sandpaper. The quality of grinding and polishing is determined by the type of finish. Before painting, the surface must be leveled with pinpoint precision;
the ceiling is cleaned of dust and coated with primer. After this, it is ready for applying the finishing cladding, which can be used as paint, wallpaper or tiles;
connection and fastening is carried out lighting fixtures, fans and various sensors. The joints between the drywall and the wall are covered with skirting boards. If a wide plinth is glued to the wall 5 cm from the suspended ceiling, it will serve as a good basis for attaching lighting in the form of an LED strip.

How to do plasterboard ceiling on our own, it is known that it is important to consistently complete all stages of the work.

Photo gallery of finished gypsum board ceilings

Plasterboard ceilings - simple and economical way transform the apartment. The reliability of the design has been proven by many years of experience. As experience shows, these ceilings have a lot of advantages. It is also of great importance that making plasterboard ceilings is simple; even a non-professional can cope with the task. The aesthetic possibilities here are simply endless. You can create unique design, feel free to use different options lighting, and curved shapes.

Preparations should begin by creating a project. Check how many levels the ceiling will have. Depends on it. It is necessary to think in advance about the layout of lighting fixtures and additional lighting. It may be necessary to rout the ceiling and walls to install the wiring. Only after this can you draw up a project, make calculations and go to the store for materials.

Tools

It won't work without reliable tools. The time it takes to complete the work depends on them. Before purchasing materials, check that you have all the tools. It’s better to make a list right away and buy everything in advance.

Small things you will need: marker, construction pencil, indicator screwdriver, drill bits different diameters, jigsaw files, bits, masking tape, electrical tape and paint rollers.

Materials

Drywall can have a thickness from 6.5 to 12.5 mm. For the ceiling, it is better to buy sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm. But if the project has, 6.5 mm drywall will be the best for them. If you purchase thicker sheets, you need to strengthen the frame. Your ceiling will be heavy, which means it will need more profiles and fastenings.

Important.
For residential premises drywall will do with plasterboard marking.
Essential for kitchen or bathroom moisture resistant material.

Two types of profiles are needed:

Guide (PN) dimensions 27 x 27 mm. This profile is attached around the perimeter of the room.
Ceiling (PP) dimensions 56 x 27 or 60 x 27 mm. Drywall sheets are directly attached to this profile.

Profiles used for the ceiling:
ceiling CD and UD guide

For fastening ceiling profiles to rough ceiling U-shaped hangers are used. You can use other suspensions, but U-shaped ones are the most reliable. For the ceiling it is better to take plastic dowels and screws. If the ceiling is concrete, dowels are needed for heavy metal structures. Self-tapping screws are used to attach drywall. A connector (crab) is used at the joints of the profiles.

At the final stages, joint putty and paint are needed.

Stages of ceiling installation

Working with drywall involves large number dust. If you do not intend to change the wallpaper, you need to cover it with film. It is better to take the furniture out, or, as a last resort, wrap it tightly with film. The rough ceiling must be plastered and coated with primer. Pieces of plaster falling onto a suspended ceiling can damage it. All wiring has already been carried out to the lighting installation areas.

1. Measurements and marking

The height of the ceiling depends on the type of lighting fixtures. If a chandelier is intended, 5 cm is enough. About 10 cm of free space is required. If you plan to hide communications behind the ceiling, the distance can reach 40 cm.

A perfectly straight horizontal line must be applied to the walls under the ceiling. Along this line you will attach the guide profile. To determine this line you need a laser level. You can use a spirit level or a rule. The line must close exactly at the point from which it began. The slightest displacements are unacceptable. In the corners, a level must be placed both on the surface of the walls and spacers in the corners. All lines are drawn with a construction pencil.

Horizontal markings around the perimeter - controlled using a level, then mark the mounting points for the guides

After completing the horizontal markings, we proceed to the ceiling. The mounting points of the suspensions are marked and the lines along which the ceiling profile will be mounted are drawn. As a result, you should get a grid with squares whose sides are 60 cm. You need to start from the center of the room. Near the walls, most likely, squares will not work. Your task is to make the cell sizes symmetrical near each wall.

2. Frame installation

The standard length of the guide profile is 3 m. To fasten one element, you need to use at least 4 dowel nails. It is advisable to seal the profile with sealing tape at the point of contact with the wall. The profile must follow the drawn markings clearly, the elements fit tightly to each other. Installation is best done in the classic way, in which the dowel is first screwed in and then a screw is installed into it.

The next stage is attaching U-shaped hangers to the rough ceiling using dowels and nails. The interval between them along one line should be 40-70 cm. At the joints of profiles, hangers are installed on both sides. The ends of the suspension must be bent as much as possible. During the fastening process, they should not sag, otherwise it is impossible to fix the profile evenly.

The ceiling profile should be 1 cm shorter than the width of the ceiling. If your room is less than 3 m wide ( standard length profile), cut off the excess with metal scissors. If the room is large, you will have to connect two profiles. To do this you need to buy special fasteners.

Important! If you are extending a ceiling profile, the joints on two adjacent ones should not be on the same line. Additionally, the joints are secured with hangers.

Sequence of installation of ceiling profiles:

You need to start from the corners of the room. A partner takes the rule and places it diagonally in the corner. The other end of the rule will support the profile so that it does not sag. This way your partner will maintain the profile exactly along the line of the guides. In the meantime, you insert the profile into the guides, screw it to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws and to the guides.
The center is also attached to hangers. If it is impossible to use the rule as in the corner, apply it straight away from starting profile, be sure to check the line with a level. Extra length hangers are bent upwards.
The second profile is attached in the same way. After this, you should repeat everything near the opposite wall.
The central profiles are attached in the same way, aligned with those already installed.

Next, jumpers are installed perpendicular to the main profiles. The distance between them should be 60 cm, this is why you divided the ceiling into squares. The profile is cut into pieces of the required length. Crabs are installed at the joints, secured with 4 self-tapping screws, and the antennae are bent. The jumpers are attached to the crab's antennae using self-tapping screws. There is no need to attach the jumpers to the profile from the bottom; they will be fixed during the installation of the drywall.

Photo: insulation of a suspended ceiling with mineral wool

Free space between draft and suspended ceiling can be filled with heat and sound insulation. Most often used mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles larger than the cells in the frame, and the space is filled, additionally secured with hangers.

3. Installation of drywall

Sheets of drywall should lie in the room for several days, always in a horizontal position. Sheets are cut to fit required sizes construction knife. Before installation, the chamfer must be cut at the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty completely fills the gap. Burrs that form during cutting are removed with a plane. Holes for lamps are made using crowns after careful measurements.

Sheets need to start fastening from the corner. Self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets should be screwed in at different levels. The pitch between the screws is 20 cm. The cap must be completely recessed; it is advisable to check each screw by touch.
The sheet is attached to both the guide and the ceiling profiles.
Drywall cannot be joined closely around the perimeter. A gap of 2 mm must be left.
The sheets must be placed apart from each other, moving them by at least one cell.