Multi-level ceiling from plasterboard - this is modern solution, which will give the room style and make it interesting. This ceiling has its undeniable advantages. It hides all slab differences and irregularities, making the ceiling perfectly smooth. All communications can be hidden under the slabs, so there is no need to make grooves in the walls for electrical wiring and air-discharging elements of air conditioners. And if you place modern, light ones under the ceiling insulating materials, this will additionally insulate the room and improve sound insulation. This ceiling can be given the most sophisticated and graceful shapes. You can easily install a variety of lamps - spotlights and pendants.
Materials for work
Drywall is an environmentally friendly and non-flammable material. Consists of gypsum board covered with a layer of cardboard. Ceiling plasterboard 8 mm thick, quite flexible and light, easy to cut with a construction knife. Install two-level ceiling Even beginners can do it with their own hands.
To work, you will need metal profiles onto which plasterboard slabs are attached. They come in two types - guide profiles and with stiffeners. You should also purchase special screws.
Choosing a form
The plasterboard construction will “eat” the height of the ceilings. The first level lowers the surface by 3-5 cm, and the second by 10 cm.
If the ceilings are relatively flat, then they can serve as the first level to which shaped plasterboard projections can be attached.
Smooth and rounded elements look very good on the ceiling, but strict ones will also fit in quite harmoniously. geometric lines, for example, a protruding threshold along the entire perimeter of the ceiling, which even a beginner can handle making. Drywall is quite easy to work with, so even a simple protrusion can be rounded in the corners, thereby making it more attractive. You can hide a cornice behind such a threshold, and then the illusion of curtains falling from the ceiling will be created. It is possible to hide electrical wiring and install a series of spotlights over certain areas or along the entire perimeter.
The desired shape of the ceiling is first born on paper, in the form of a sketch. On which, in addition to the geometric figure, you need to note the location of the vertical posts, at a distance of 30-40 cm. In rounded corners, the posts should be located more tightly. Afterwards the drawing is transferred to the ceiling.
Installation of the frame begins from a lower level. The contours of the future ceiling are made from guide profiles. Rounded and smooth lines are obtained by cutting the profile at the bending points with metal scissors and bending it around the circumference. The guide profiles that define the shape are connected by uprights with stiffening ribs of such length that the second level of the ceiling should be lowered. It is better to immediately prepare all the rounded corners so that they are the same.
The frame is attached to the surface along a given contour using special “crab” plasterboard hangers, with which you can adjust the height. The hangers are placed at a distance of 40 cm. In the corners the structure is fixed rigidly; additional supports can be added. The frame must be measured with a level during installation. After attaching the main structure, which defines the contour of our future ceiling, rack profiles are installed at a distance of 60 cm, which are fastened with transverse jumpers, also observing a step of 60 cm.
Sometimes crossbars they are not fixed so that they can be moved, adjusted to fit the fastening of drywall joints.
The suspensions are attached to the ceiling using two dowels with an 8*80 screw. The profiles are connected to each other with metal screws 3.5*11.
Installation of sheets
Once the frame is assembled and leveled, the cavities can be filled with insulating material, fiberglass, or foam sheets and electrical wiring installed. Then the ceiling is installed. The sheets should be pre-cut on the floor. It is convenient to immediately cut holes for spotlights. It is advisable to leave allowances of a few centimeters along the rounding line.
It’s better to cut and remove excess on the spot than to end up with an unwanted gap between the slabs. To make it easier to bend the drywall covering the smooth and rounded elements during installation, the part can be cut on the reverse side with transverse slits and the material can be broken along them. Some people recommend simply moistening the sheets a little beforehand for this purpose.
Let's start installing the slabs using self-tapping screws with fine threads, you can take sizes 3.5*25 and 3.5*32. The operation is best performed with a screwdriver. The self-tapping screw is screwed in, slightly recessing the head into the surface.
It is unacceptable for it to go through the sheet completely; if this happens, you need to step back a few centimeters and redo the fastening.
The fastening pitch is 15 cm. The sheet can be released by securing it with at least two self-tapping screws along each side. It is advisable to use whole sheets to get neat joints and cut less material. If two cut slabs fall on the joint, their edge from the front part needs to be cleaned off a little diagonally with a knife in order to perfectly align the seam with plaster in the future. After the main mass of the ceiling is fixed, they begin covering the threshold. First, the elements of the side part are attached and only then the lower plates.
When all the slabs are installed, the ceiling is primed with a universal primer. After complete drying, all seams are glued with serpyanka mounting tape, and all outer corners are secured and leveled with special corners. For straight lines use metal corners, and for smooth and rounded ones - a special flexible plastic corner. The technique for attaching it is simple: a layer of plaster is smeared on the corner of the structure, the corner is sunk into it, and the excess mortar protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. After the second layer of plaster has dried, the corner is finally removed. You should also putty all the screw heads. Check first to see if there are any protrusions and tighten them manually.
Plaster all seams flush with the slab. After all the leveling elements of the plaster have dried, the entire surface of the ceiling is puttied, you can immediately use the finishing solution. The surfaces are allowed to dry and cleaned of unevenness and sagging plaster using a fine-grained construction sanding float. If the holes for spotlights were not previously made in the slabs, they can be cut with a special glass drill of the required diameter, and electrical wiring wires are pulled into the holes.
At this stage, the ceiling molding is glued to a special glue or plaster. After which the entire surface is primed, preparing for painting. Painting different ceiling levels in different colors, it is advisable to glue the joints with special paper adhesive tape, which will prevent paint smudges. First the ceiling is painted, and then the baguettes. After finishing the work, spotlights are installed, and pendant lights are installed using special dowels or plasterboard fasteners.
Video
This video will demonstrate the installation of a complex two-level ceiling.
The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought perfectly smooth walls and didn’t think about it. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster it along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions also done using drywall. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.
How to cover walls with plasterboard
First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:
The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan in advance to attach something to the wall, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also serve as an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.
For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.
Attachment to frame
Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we will talk about a frame and mostly a metal one. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.
GKL dimensions and purpose
A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. Standard sizes such: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:
- 12.5 mm — universal material for walls and ceilings;
- 6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.
It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers position thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.
Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.
How to dock
If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).
If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).
How to attach and in what steps
When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select those that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.
During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.
To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.
When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.
Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.
Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).
These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).
Plasterboard partition
Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.
Marking
First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.
If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular construction level ( good quality) and plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.
Marking a partition using a level and plumb line
It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.
Frame assembly
We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.
PN profile has standard depth(wall height) - 40 mm, but maybe different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and/or soundproofing material you can put it there.
Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.
The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - special tool, which breaks through and bends the metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders independent work with drywall, attached to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.
One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided for and there are no unpleasant sounds.
The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.
If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.
It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block. suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.
After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.
The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - place it every 60 cm; if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the same height door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing a wooden block inside.
Laying communications
After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electrical wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you place the partition in wooden house or on wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (marked “NG”).
Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation
After laying communications, the installation of plasterboard sheets begins. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.
The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:
In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.
How to cut drywall
When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. To do this, you will only need a sharp stationery knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's it. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut the drywall;
- apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
- We place a block under the cut line;
- on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
- we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
- bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.
It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).
Video lessons
Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.
How to make a false wall from plasterboard
How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This method of assembling the frame is non-standard, but this does not mean that it is wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.
Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? On the market there is different models profiles, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.
Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible, you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.
Technology is always important in any construction work; it is this that guarantees the quality of construction and the durability of the repair result. But, often, builders make technological mistakes, some from ignorance, and some from inertia. Many builders deliberately violate technology, seemingly with good intentions, trying to speed up the installation process and reduce material costs. Let's look at the main mistakes using the example of working with a metal profile.
1. Violations of frame installation technology
Failure to follow the technology with metal profiles or the profiles not matching their purpose are perhaps the most popular mistakes of builders and everyone who makes repairs with their own hands. This is especially true for profiles for curved ceiling surfaces.
By to this photo it is clear that the master, unfortunately, in principle does not understand how to fix the ceiling profiles (PP 60X27). To fix them, you should always use hangers; the profile should look down with its smooth side, because it is on this base that the sheets of drywall are screwed. The design does not have an additional metal strip along the entire length of the profile (cut along the same curved line from a galvanized sheet), which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure. As a result, this structure will be flimsy, and the fastening of the drywall will be unreliable, which will lead to the appearance of a crack after repair.
2. Errors when cutting profiles
To uniformly cut the profile for the purpose of installing curved structures, you should never use an angle grinder (grinder). At high speed, the metal overheats, and in addition, the galvanization burns out at the cut site, as a result of which in the future this place will be susceptible to corrosion. The work of cutting metal profiles should be performed only with special metal scissors (manual or electric). The smooth profile is cut carefully, strictly observing the integrity of the opposite shelf on which the side sheet of drywall will be attached.
3. Wrong selection of profile
A common mistake among builders of various qualifications is when the structure of the box for partitions is made from ceiling profile, instead of rack-mount (PS 50/50) and guide (PN 50/40).
The stability, reliability and sound insulation of such a structure immediately comes into question.
Using a ceiling profile to frame partitions is a complete divergence from technology. For the construction of partitions or walls, a guide profile 50/40, 75/40 and 100/40 is used (which is fixed to the floor, ceiling and wall), and a rack profile 50/50, 75/50, 100/50.
4. Refusal of suspensions and violation of the frame
During construction suspended ceiling builders are faced with the problem of the foundation - what should the frame be secured to? In the best case, it is concrete, but if it is wood or a complex surface obtained experimentally, then problems arise, as in the photo. IN in this case builders in selected places decided to completely abandon the use of hangers for the frame of a two-level ceiling type P-112.
As a result, the main profile 60/27 is rigidly screwed to the supporting profile without a two-level connector. The supporting profile itself is pressed to the boards, also without hangers. This technology will lead to the fact that, over time, cracks will inevitably form along the surface of the entire plasterboard ceiling. The scheme is also broken frame, - step profiles are chaotic, with a wide indentation of the supporting profile from the wall. If the technology is followed, the supporting profile is fixed from the wall in increments of 10 cm. The suspended ceiling system can only be mounted on special perforated or spring hangers. The profile pitch should be uniform every 50 cm (and in the case of heavy chandeliers - 40 cm).
5. Bending the profile walls
A striking example malfunction with the profile shown in the photo below. The partition is again built from a ceiling profile, in violation of technology. And besides, for the jumpers the profile was simply bent.
And here, the supporting crossbar of the partition opening is made of a rack profile, which is also turned horizontally, and its stiffening ribs are unbent.
This is extremely wrong. By unbending the walls of the profile, the rigidity and integrity of the entire structure is compromised, as the reinforcement is also reduced. Here it was necessary to use a special guide profile for partitions of the appropriate size 50/40, 75/40 or 100/40.
6. Fixing the gypsum board sheet with the wrong side
Some builders consider it unimportant to know which side to fasten the drywall - front or back? The photograph shows how, when covering a wall with gypsum board sheets, some of them are sewn with the back side facing out. The peculiarity of this plasterboard is that it is moisture resistant and these properties are contained both in the core of the sheet and in its cardboard on the front side, preventing excessive wetting of the sheet during wet areas, as well as the formation of fungus.
7. Error in attaching drywall sheets
Another popular mistake that leads to the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall is its improper fixation. It is the installation of drywall sheets in staggered order that will protect against the appearance of cracks. Below you can see how the sheets are screwed to the profile in one row, and in addition from small cuts. This is the sheathing low quality. Sheets should be taken as large as possible, and small pieces should not be joined in an area of 1 sq/m.
Even experienced craftsmen It’s worth improving your knowledge, for example, at the KNAUF Training Center. Remember - the reliability and quality of the designs of systems made of gypsum plasterboard and profiles is associated with adherence to technology!
Complex shapes made of plasterboard are necessary not only on the ceiling; sometimes, for the uniqueness of the design or for spectacular changes in the layout, you have to think about how to make a round wall. More precisely, arcuate, since it would be impractical to completely loop the structure. But is drywall able to withstand such tests, and how can you get the desired result from straight metal profiles? Let's figure it out.
Before making a round wall, let's find out what it will give
First of all, perhaps, we should summarize the information about such convenient, but not particularly durable drywall. This composite material also known as dry plaster, and is actively used for wall decoration, even in rooms with high levels of humidity or fire hazard, using especially resistant sheets. However, unlike decorative coatings, which are applied several millimeters thick and immediately represent final version, sheets of two layers of cardboard, between which a hardened layer of gypsum is enclosed, require finishing.
But if you do not pay attention to the decorative component, drywall is a very valuable development, because you can make a round wall from it quite quickly, just by slightly moistening it. Today, sheets with a thickness of 6, 8, and 9.5 millimeters are produced (the most popular dimensions, but there are also thicker ones), which bend relatively easily, especially the first type, called arched. More massive modifications are necessary in cases where a solid base is needed, for example, so that plasterboard niches have more than just decorative value.
From this we conclude that practically no other material can be used, say, for curved walls or for suspended ceilings in the form of complex figures (especially in the latter case) Neither plywood nor plastic have the necessary margin of flexibility and durability. Brick is especially not suitable for light structures. What about roundness? plasterboard walls, it is needed, first of all, in cases where it is necessary to slightly increase the area of one room by removing a protrusion in it, by reducing the area in the adjacent room, where there will be no corner. In addition, protruding parts of the layout are damaged more often than rounded ones.
We make rounded partitions
We already know that rounded partitions can be made easily, albeit with a certain degree of caution, since the material is quite brittle. But what should we do with the frame on which the sheets need to be attached? Wooden beam disappears immediately. But with profiles, it turns out that the desired result is quite achievable. We will also need mineral wool, a sufficient number of screws and some tools. In particular: construction compass and a knife, hacksaw and grinder saw, screwdriver, metal scissors, square, needle roller, pencil.
How to make a round wall from plasterboard - step by step diagram
Step 1: Marking the bases
We apply a semicircle to the inner sides of the connected partition frames, converging at an angle, so that the flat side of the template is perpendicular to one of the structures, and draw an arc on the floor.
Exactly the same markings should be on the ceiling, but if you can’t draw on it, simply screw the template itself with several screws in the same position in which it lay below.
You can also attach a part cut from the workpiece on top with the same arc, the shape of which our template took.
Step 2: Preparing the Guides
It is very important to correctly bend the profile, which, despite being made of metal, can easily take on an arched shape. To do this, measure 5 centimeter sections along the back plane of the guide, making notes.
Then we draw transverse lines along them, along which we make cuts with a grinder.
Using scissors, we cut away the cuts from one of the sides of the profile.
Bend the remaining intact side into the arc we need, checking the line drawn on the floor.
We are preparing exactly the same profile for the ceiling.
Step 3: Making a Template
At the first stage of work, we measure the required bending radius of the wall (the minimum for a nine-millimeter sheet is 50 centimeters), after which we begin drawing the template. As a blank, you can use a sheet of plywood or even a piece of drywall, if such waste is possible.
As a result, a semicircle with the required radius should be drawn on the sheet, which we cut out with a hacksaw, using construction knife, if it's drywall.
Step 4: Attaching the Frame
Make sure that the profiles are strictly vertical. In order not to miss the profiles during the process of covering the structure, we draw marks on the floor and ceiling at their bases.
Step 5: Installing the External Arc Cover
In order for the sheets of drywall to bend without cracks and other flaws, you need to wet them and leave them for 20 minutes to soften a little.
Then we carefully lift the finishing material, which can now tear like ordinary wet cardboard, and apply it to the outermost vertical post of the frame. We screw it to the first profile, bend it slightly until it touches the second post, screw it again and repeat the process until the drywall is fixed on all vertical elements frame.
It is better to cut the sheets into strips or use waste, so there is less chance of them cracking during the bending process.
Step 6: Installing soundproofing
Since our round plasterboard walls are still an unfinished structure with only one-sided cladding, we begin to lay soundproofing mineral wool slabs between the profiles.
To do this, we cut them into narrow strips, which should fit tightly between the vertical posts of the frame, partially going inside the profiles.
Step 7: Installation of the inner arc cover
Laying plasterboard sheets with inside The curved structure is performed in exactly the same way as with the external one, with only one difference - now you can form the bend of the skin on the outer covering. We wet the strips of drywall, but now we roll a needle roller over them on the side that will be outside. When the desired degree of curvature is obtained on the outer part of the arc, we transfer the sheet inside the frame and fix it with screws.
We cut off the excess with a construction knife or saw in the middle of the outer profile for the joint with the next sheathing elements.
We attach whole wetted sheets with a second layer, also cutting them off in the middle of the vertical post.
With sheets of plasterboard you can:
- cover any surface;
- hide those places that spoil your interior, especially for toilets and baths;
- make shelves from plasterboard and place various objects on them;
- install partitions, thereby creating a full-fledged room;
- mount niches for a TV or other structural elements.
For craftsmen who like to make things with their own hands and create comfort in their homes on their own, drywall in combination with a metal profile has become simply an irreplaceable material, as it has amazing qualities:
- Environmentally friendly.
- Makes it possible to change the space without using “wet” processes and quite quickly.
- Durable.
- Mounted on a frame made of wood or metal.
- Frameless installation is possible.
- Suitable for any facing material.
- Easily cuts.
- The design of plasterboard walls provides the opportunity to use various configurations in the interior.
- The cost of the material is low.
So, if you have a passionate desire to create a cozy atmosphere in your home, then you will certainly find it useful step by step instructions for the installation of certain structural elements.
Construction of a box made of plasterboard and metal profile
Many of us want to close the pipes in the bathroom, hide the sewer in the toilet, or get rid of risers, which spoil the interior of the room with their appearance. A plasterboard structure called a box will cope well with this task.
This element makes it possible to get rid of the unattractive appearance of communication systems. No one sees a boner with a hot or cold water, and he continues to perform his direct functions.
Depending on the wishes, potential and location of the highways, the riser can be closed:
- The entire wall.
- Only pipes.
In the first case, by sewing up the entire plane, we reduce usable area, although you can install shelves or niches to store various items and things. In the second, we close only those areas where the pipes pass. This option is the most acceptable, since installation is quite quick and makes it possible to save money on the purchase of material.
When thinking about how to visually remove the communications maintenance system, you must remember that if it breaks, you will have to break, if not the entire structure, then at least a part. And this will ruin the decoration of the room and you will have to do the repairs again.
You can build a collapsible box in the toilet, this option is not used very often, or install small doors (hatches) for access to communication elements (valves, meters, fittings).
Remember that most often problems occur at the joints - the smaller their number, the easier it is to operate the pipeline. Before starting work, conduct a thorough inspection of the line. If there are defects, eliminate them, get rid of rust (if any).
You can not be afraid of leaks and can safely close sealed or welded joints. A threaded connections should be left open.
Materials and tools
If you need to close unattractive places yourself, you need to know how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom and choose the right material. Since there is always high humidity in the bathroom, not all materials are suitable for the job. They must meet the established requirements:
- be resistant to moisture;
- have little weight;
- made from environmentally friendly components.
Let's say paper wallpaper in the bathroom you will have to change it in a couple of months, which means that tiles are best suited for tiling. Where to attach it if there is no foundation. Best to use metal profile, not wooden blocks. The latter will begin to deteriorate over time, especially if they are in a humid environment. In this option, you need to choose a species that is resistant to rotting and treat the surface with an antiseptic.
But nothing will happen to the metal. It will last a long time. More details from technical characteristics profiles can be found in the article "". Select fasteners according to the article “”, they are produced according to GOST 11652-80, 10619-80.
To work you will need the products shown in the figure.
Prepare from tools and equipment.
Determining the dimensions of the structure
It is necessary to determine in the room where the pipe box will be installed. All measurements are made using a tape measure. First, we will make a drawing on paper, which will depict the future structure with all the elements and technological hatches. You need to know that in the places where they adjoin, you need to make reinforcements from profiles. The future structure must be reliable and strong.
Box drawing
If you have to close pipes that are located in the corner part of the room, then the box will have two sides, and if the riser is sewn up in the middle of the wall, it will have three.
On the drawing, mark all types of connections, indicate the installation diagram of the profiles. Now you can definitely buy necessary elements and correctly calculate the material for the job.
The distance between the pipe and the box should not be less than 30 mm.
Marking
Before making a box from plasterboard, you need to find the most protruding places of the riser, which will set the boundary future design, and mark them. From the base point on the ceiling, using a square, we draw perpendiculars to the walls. The resulting rectangle should cover all the protrusions of the riser. Next, we lower the plumb line from the point and the contact mark shows the base mark on the floor. From it we will draw perpendiculars to the walls.
Now let's connect the lines along the wall and get a straight line on which we will install the rack profile.
Frame installation
Profiles must be mounted to the wall taking into account the finishing materials so that they do not adhere closely to the pipes.
Using a drill, we drill holes into which we then hammer in plastic dowels. We attach the rack profile (27x28) to the wall with screws, and the guide (27x60) to the ceiling and floor. Install the front edge of the box. It is obtained at the intersection of guide profiles along the ceiling and floor. This is done using a cutter or self-tapping screws.
If the width of the box is more than 250 mm or its height is more than 1500 mm, it is necessary to install transverse jumpers between the vertical posts. They are installed at a distance of no more than 1000 mm and serve as stiffening ribs for the structure. In addition, sheets of drywall are then mounted on them.
All fastening points should be placed on the same straight line to form a solid continuous plane for the edges of the structure, otherwise distortions are likely to occur.
The plasterboard box in the bathroom and toilet is assembled according to the same principle. Its installation is quick, the structure is compact, the distance from the profile to the pipe is no less than 50-60 mm.
Drywall installation
Before covering the pipes with plasterboard, it is necessary to cut the sheet so that the box is covered with strips and not pieces. First we cut off the side edges; their width is equal to the width of the frame. The sheet cannot protrude beyond the border of the rack. To do this, you can use a roughing plane.
Now we measure the exact size of the remaining edge and cut a strip of drywall so that it fits onto the edges of the side strips. We fasten the plasterboard to the profile with self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) every 150-250 mm to the main posts. Just don't forget about inspection hatches. You can buy them in stores, manufacturers offer large selection various sizes. You will learn how to cut holes in drywall in another section of this article. This completes the installation of the box.
After you have made a box of plasterboard with your own hands, you can begin to putty it. And what finishing materials you use to create a pleasant interior - tiles, paint or plaster – the choice is yours.
Making shelves from plasterboard
When working with plasterboard, it is not always possible to avoid waste: you made a mistake in calculating volumes or changed the design during the renovation. Various reasons maybe. Some stores are ready to accept large pieces, but not everyone is so lucky; this is rather an exception to the rule.
If you are a craftsman, do not rush to take the leftovers to the garage, but decorate the interior of your home. Make the environment more comfortable and get rid of old furniture. Believe me, a plasterboard shelf will definitely find its application in the living room, bedroom or hallway and can:
- be an element of decor in the room;
- a place to store things, books, interior accessories;
- pedestal for collectibles;
A plasterboard TV shelf is not a dream, but a reality. You just need to choose the right profile and use a sheet in two layers. However, modern televisions not so heavy, and beautiful shelf may become ideal place for plasma panel.
We will tell you how to make plasterboard shelves with your own hands in this section. The whole process consists of certain stages.
We need tools.
Materials you will need:
- Drywall, preferably 12.5 mm thick. If you are planning to install a shelf in a room with high humidity, then you should take a moisture-resistant one - GKLV (moisture-resistant plasterboard).
- Metal profiles – guides and racks.
- Fasteners – screws, self-tapping screws, dowels, wedge anchors, special fasteners.
Drawing
Before starting work, you need to know exactly what functions the shelf will perform, whether it should be reinforced with additional jumpers or not. If heavy objects will stand on it, then the frame must be strong enough. Next, imagine what it will look like and transfer your wishes to paper. Don't forget about the exact dimensions.
The calculation of the volume of material used depends on this.
You need to start with simpler designs - by making straight shelves. And in the future, experiment with more complex configurations and projects.
Marking
Having determined the place where the plasterboard shelf should be, we begin marking. In your work, use a tape measure and a square. Do not forget about the thickness of the cladding of the finished product.
Unfortunately, modern apartments can't boast smooth surfaces walls, horizontal floors and ceilings, perfect angles. Therefore, the building level should be with you at all times.
We set aside the dimensions strictly according to the drawing. The quality of the future structure, its appearance and strength.
Shelf installation
You can now install profiles using the intended marking grid. The process itself depends on the design configuration. First, install horizontal or vertical parts. According to the plan, which is shown in the “Drawing” subsection, we begin to work with the vertical stand.
To do this, we drill a hole for the dowels, with their help we will attach the rack profile (27x28) to the wall. There should be three or more of them per part. We check the position with a level and hammer in the part using a 6x40 wedge anchor. We combine them with each other using self-tapping screws or a cutter with a guide profile (27x60). On the right side we screw a strip of drywall in increments of 150-250 mm. The second sidewall, like all subsequent ones, is assembled in exactly the same way.
Next, we mount the frame between the vertical posts; to do this, we fasten the rack profile along the marked lines, and fix the guide, which is adjacent to the plasterboard sheet, with self-tapping screws along the edges, turning the plaster and the back profile through to the profile. In this case, in the frame of the part on which the sheet is attached (namely, to which these screws are twisted), the profile must be laid in a horizontal position - just like on the partition, but in this case it is used as the main part of the load-bearing structure of the shelf. This way the shelves will hold securely and firmly, this will be facilitated by plasterboard blanks screwed to the frame on the other side.
Ultimately, the process of installing a plasterboard shelf will end with a design that you can see in the photo, or another one that you come up with yourself.
Next, you can putty the seams, seal the holes from the heads of the screws, prime the surface and veneer the shelf. If desired, it is ennobled with mirror panels, other materials are used, or simply covered with paint to match color range premises.
You need to screw profiles to brick, concrete and plastered surfaces using dowel nails or anchor wedges if it is a hard surface. If the wall is made of aerated concrete, then you need to use special fasteners, and if the surface is made of plasterboard, use other hardware, which you can read about in the article “”. When you have a wooden base, then for work you need to take wood screws.
You can install plasterboard shelves in a room where renovations have already been done. True, in this case you have to work more carefully, especially with markings, because corrections may result in the marks being visible on the cladding. The work is performed in the same order, only it is better to cut drywall and profiles not in a renovated room. Much easier the process will begin installation if work will be performed during repairs. In this option, you can follow all the design rules, and the new element will fit harmoniously and effectively into the interior.
How and with what to cut drywall
1. Gypsum core
2. Cardboard shell
As you can see in the picture, this is a sandwich consisting of a gypsum core and two layers of cardboard. Gypsum itself is a fragile material. But thanks to special additives and reinforcement on both sides with cardboard, which is impregnated special composition, the sheet is able to withstand sufficient loads. It is produced according to GOST 6266-97, its characteristics and technical indicators can be found in the article “”.
Working with this material is easy and interesting. Can:
- make your own shelf or niche for a TV from plasterboard;
- install a figured partition;
- hide what you don’t really want to see;
- Put things you are proud of on display for everyone to see.
To create masterpieces that will decorate any home, you just need to have imagination, manufacturing information and know how to handle drywall. As for the latter, the skill lies in knowing how and with what to cut it. After all, during the repair process you need to cut out broken lines, cut the sheet in a straight line or make holes.
To cut drywall, you need:
- pencil,
- roulette,
- corner ruler,
- preferably a racer,
- if there is a large amount of work to be done, use a roughing plane.
When working with this material, it is better to use not a marker or a pen, but a pencil; traces of it are not visible after putty, which cannot be said about the listed items. A plane is needed to straighten the curved edges of gypsum boards. The surface for working with plasterboard sheets must be flat - most often it is a stack of sheets, the floor, and ideally a large table.
Now about the tools. The blades must be sharp, they must be held perpendicular to the sheet, only in this case you will get an even and smooth cut.
In a straight line
For this purpose, a special knife for drywall or a regular construction knife (clerical knife) is useful. The good thing about these tools is that the length of the blade is adjustable. And this is required in order not to cut through the second layer of cardboard.
Before cutting the sheet, we carefully take measurements using a tape measure or ruler. We put marks on the sheet with a pencil and connect them common line. Immediately, without removing the ruler, draw a knife along the intended line. The depth of the cut should be such that the knife blade does not reach the second layer of cardboard.
It is enough to cut only the cardboard, and the plaster will break effortlessly along the cut line.
Now we move the sheet to the edge of the table and lightly tap the cut line with our fist. We carefully bend it, it breaks along the cut line, and the halves of the sheet are held in place by a whole layer of cardboard. We cut the sheet from the back side with a knife, and clean the cut with a roughing plane.
Curvilinear shapes
The most practical tool for this work can be called a jigsaw. True, you can use a hacksaw or knife, but the cuts will be rough and you will have to spend a lot of time getting them in order. The jigsaw can handle any curved shapes.
First, we lay the sheet in such a way that the cut-out area is located suspended or between two objects at a slight distance from each other.
When working, nothing should interfere with the tool blade.
We draw the outline of the figure with a pencil and, after putting on the products personal protection, since there will be a lot of dust in the process, we begin cutting the sheet. The cut lines are high quality, even and smooth.
Round shapes
Often you have to cut a circle in drywall. Of course, they can be cut using a jigsaw or a construction knife. But the end result is unlikely to please you, and a lot of time and nerves will be spent on the work. It is more convenient to make holes for sockets or light bulbs using a crown that is attached to the chuck of an electric drill. Such sets are sold in any hardware store and have different diameters.
First, we make the necessary markings on the sheet - the location of the future hole - and outline the center. We select a bit according to size and secure it in the drill chuck. Place the drill in the center of the hole and begin drilling.
To get quality work, you should cut at medium speed, slowly, gently pressing the drill. If you apply too much pressure, the attachment will get stuck in the plaster.
Rectangular shapes
Often, when working with drywall, you have to cut rectangular holes in the sheet (for sockets, technical hatches). This is especially often necessary when making boxes that cover risers and pipes. A hacksaw is useful for this.
Please note that to work with sheets of drywall you need to use a metal blade. It has smaller teeth, so the work will be done faster and better.
Place the sheet on a support and make necessary measurements and along the marked line where it is necessary to cut the drywall, we make cuts with a hacksaw. We start work from any angle and then cut out the desired shape.
No matter how hard we try, it is not always possible to make the edges of drywall smooth. This defect affects not only the aesthetic appearance, but also the quality of the work performed. The parts do not fit tightly together, compromising the integrity of the structure.
For working with drywall, a roughing plane is useful. This professional tool Worth purchasing for anyone who works with this material. It is inexpensive and needed for high-quality processing cut edges. It is carried out according to GOST 21445-84.
They are quite simple to work with. It is necessary to place the sheet so that it is convenient to process its edge - with the end up, or you can lay it on its side. Place the plane on the cut of the sheet and run it along the entire length. You shouldn’t press the handle too hard, since with strong pressure the tool will go deeper into the drywall and you will have to remove a large cut or end up with an uneven end.
Movements should be as light as possible, in two or three passes. The surface of the plane must be frequently cleaned of plaster - turn the tool over and lightly tap the body with your palm.
Making a niche in the wall from plasterboard
Well-designed and high-quality installed niches in a plasterboard wall can replace furniture set. They are performed:
- in horizontal or vertical design;
- V floor version, where it is possible to place decorative fireplace, vase with flowers, decorative details more than 1 m high;
- on the entire wall or just a small area;
- with and without backlight;
- closed or open.
This structural element can be different, its configuration depends on your imagination and wishes, and the design can be complemented by plastic or mirror material with decorative lamps.
In addition, a plasterboard niche is not only a decorative element, but also makes it possible to hide electrical wiring, engineering communications or remove from prying eyes objects that others do not need to know about. Sometimes owners use this privilege so skillfully that they can easily go on vacation without worrying about their jewelry. Or they skillfully disguise technical systems life support at home.
Tools
In order to build a niche, you need to have the following tools for work.
Drawing
It is clear that not everyone has graduated from a construction university or has experience working with drawings. But any plasterboard structures that you plan to make with your own hands mean that they will be made strictly to size. This means you definitely need a drawing to scale. No need to master computer programs or call a draftsman from an architectural bureau. It is enough to sketch out the diagram by hand, indicate all the dimensions and design features. It is impossible to make a niche without a diagram. Let it be a simple drawing, but the size of the wall, the location of heating radiators, furniture, electrical outlets, if necessary for the intended project. With a correctly drawn up drawing, all cases of alteration of the structure are excluded.
Sketching thoughts on paper or “drawing”
Without effective lighting, the niche will give the impression of a dark hole. This means you need to create a special background around it (mirrors, glossy ceramics) or install lighting that will visually expand the space of the niche.
Consider the placement of lighting fixtures. All this must be taken into account in the drawing and when calculating the volume of materials. Check the dimensions and depth of the niche. Be sure to consider the location of the furniture so that it does not block the opening.
When drawing up a drawing, be sure to take into account the thickness of the profile. After all, its dimensions are an integral part of the dimensions of the future structure in height and width.
Are you planning to install it in a niche? household appliances– pay attention to the dimensions of the structure. Design the space of such a niche a little more sizes devices - for cooling equipment with air and access to communications.
Marking
It is carried out strictly according to size and using building level. We mark the middle on the wall with a pencil and from there we draw symmetrically the entire drawing with the length and width of the structure.
If you want to place a niche in the center of the wall, then strictly ensure that there is space at the edges. equal distance. If the symmetry is broken, the niche will not fit into the interior of the room.
Having outlined the contours of the structure being built on the wall, you already know along which lines you need to mount the profile guides.
The most detailed markings should be provided. On the wall, indicate all the marks for attaching the metal profile frame.
At this stage, consider wiring electrical cables and installing sockets. If you are planning illuminated shelves, consider additional equipment.
Frame installation
Having cut the profiles to size, we begin to assemble the frame.
We check each installed profile with a level, because the slightest discrepancy will ruin the entire structure.
We fasten the guide profile with dowels along the perimeter of the drawing transferred to the wall, along the depth of our niche, on the floor and ceiling - 300-400 mm, strictly perpendicular to the wall. The pitch is 400-600 mm.
with self-tapping screws or a cutter. In the places of future shelves we install jumpers from the rack profile. Our DIY plasterboard niche should have wide shelves that can easily accommodate the additional and main equipment that we plan to place there. The frame is quite strong and the profile is reliable.
Drywall installation
Now you need to attach the sheets to the profile. We do this using self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) with a pitch of 250 mm. We recess the head of the fastener into the sheet by 1 mm. Less is not possible, because it will interfere with puttying, and more is also not recommended - the sheet may crack. edge plasterboard sheet should be flush with the profile, excess is removed.
The result was a niche made of plasterboard with lighting. Spending on beauty and comfort is always worth it, because they are a long-term investment cash. Therefore, we spare no expense. After covering the frame with plasterboard, puttying and priming, the surface is ready for further finishing work.
