How to make a USB floor. How to make a floor from OSB: features, installation technology, recommendations and reviews. Types of OSB boards

OSB (oriented strand board) is a material successfully used in construction and furniture manufacturing. Outwardly resembles particle board, but there is a significant difference in the new material. In the production of OSB, large shavings and chips are used, laid in layers.

If odd layers are laid along the length of the slab, then even layers are laid across. The minimum number of layers is three. This crossing of chips and chips provides the material with high fracture strength. Those who are today concerned about building a house or renovating it are wondering: is it possible to lay an OSB board on the floor?

OSB classification

OSB differs in thickness and grade of material, depending on the size of the raw material, density and quality of the resins used, which affect moisture resistance.

According to moisture resistance criteria, OSB is divided into 4 classes in Europe:

• OSB-1 is the cheapest and most hygroscopic material. Used in interior decoration residential and office premises with low humidity.
• OSB-2 – increased strength and moisture resistance. The material is used to make furniture.
• OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board, used for interior and exterior work. This material, with appropriate thickness, can be laid on the floor.
• OSB-4 is the material itself high class and has increased moisture resistance and strength. It is used for the manufacture of external wall panels in the construction of houses.

A quick note regarding abbreviations. OSB in Russian stands for oriented strand board. OSB in English sounds like oriented strand board. The word board is translated in two ways: both slab and board. Therefore, writing OSB and especially OSB is not entirely correct. Although similar abbreviations for oriented strand material are found even in construction markets.

Why choose OSB-3

Increased moisture resistance is mainly achieved by using phenol-formaldehyde as a binder and adhesive material. But these materials are not recommended for indoor use. Moreover, in European countries the production of materials using formaldehyde is prohibited. Manufacturers have developed binders for gluing and pressing chips based on polyurethane resins. OSB-3 Bolderaja ECO is produced in Europe, which uses these safe resins. The material complies with the European product standard EN 300. However, This material is more expensive than usual, but is it necessary to save on health?

For flooring, manufacturers produce slabs with a tongue-and-groove edge, which ensure a tighter fit of the slabs to each other. And to the question whether it is possible to lay OSB on the floor, the manufacturer gives an affirmative answer, offering consumers materials of varying thickness and moisture resistance.

On video: characteristics and features of the use of the material

Which floor to lay OSB on?

Before choosing a flooring material, you need to decide what technology you want to use to lay the floor. OSB flooring can be rough or finished. The subfloor is laid under linoleum, laminate, parquet, or carpet. The front floor is covered with several layers of varnish or paint in order to improve the decorative coating and higher resistance to moisture. OSB spreads on cement- concrete screed, on an old wooden floor, or laid on logs.

On a cement-concrete screed

For the floor you need to take OSB-3 made in Europe, since the quality of this material meets the stated requirements. Appeared on the market Chinese products. It is only suitable for packaging boxes or thermal insulation of walls. This slab is not suitable for flooring.

The thickness of the material laid directly on the screed must be at least 18 mm, provided that the top is covered with linoleum or laminate. If OSB is the main floor, then the slab should be at least 22 mm thick.

Regarding the question - is it possible to lay OSB directly on the screed, there are the most different opinions. Masters, relying on personal experience, defend their own point of view, and often they are contradictory among different specialists.

OSB – relatively new material, and how he will behave in 10-15 years is difficult to predict. Therefore, future homeowners choosing OSB as a floor covering also ask numerous questions about this material.

lay OSB on cement screed It is possible, but for this the cement base must be perfectly flat. To prevent the floor from moving, the cement screed must be coated with a special adhesive solution. The air humidity in the region where the house is being built should not be high. And if you live near a body of water and the air humidity is too high, then it’s better to play it safe and put the slab on joists.

Warm floors should not be laid under OSB. There are several reasons:

• When OSB heats up, it will intensively evaporate resins and chemicals, which will lead to a weakening of the strength characteristics.
• Vapors of adhesive substances will poison the residents of this room.
• OSB has low heat transfer properties and will therefore prevent heat from escaping. You will constantly experience excessive energy consumption, and the room will not heat up.

In general, warm floors are good under ceramic tiles, under laminate or linoleum laid on a cement screed. Wood under a heated floor system is not suitable.

On the logs

Most experts believe that It is more expedient to lay OSB on logs– beams 3-5 cm thick. This is necessary so that there is air circulation between the screed and the slab and moisture does not accumulate.

The beams must be impregnated with fire retardant and anti-bug agent. It is advisable that the moisture content of the timber does not exceed 20%; all beams should be the same in height (or thickness). If the floor is laid on the ground floor, then it is recommended to lay between the joists bulk insulation, or mineral wool.

The logs are placed at intervals not exceeding 50 cm from each other. The height of the beams is leveled with a level and a level. In places where the slabs are joined to each other, additional cross beams are placed, because self-tapping screws are screwed into the joists to hold the slabs on them.

Usually they choose for lags conifers two- or three-grade wood, but if the floor is intended for a room with high humidity, then it is better to choose larch or aspen timber.

On an old wooden floor

Many houses built during Soviet times have wooden floors. Cracks appeared here and there and the boards were slightly warped. Due to numerous stains, old floors look unpresentable, although they are still quite strong. Such a floor can serve as a base or subfloor for OSB.

OSB acts as one of the relatively new materials used in construction and finishing works, moreover, OSB gains in lately increasingly popular among builders and private developers. OSB is laid on wooden floors, as well as on concrete bases. The material is characterized by lightness and increased strength, compared to analogues, their structure is able to withstand moisture well. OSB is easy to install, and the cost of these products is very low.

OSB is a moisture-resistant material, which indicates its increased strength.

Installation features

When arranging floors, it is preferable to use OSB-3 boards, as they are characterized high density and moisture resistance.

Figure 1. Floor construction using OSB boards.

If leveling the floor using OSB is carried out on the surface of a concrete screed, then a material whose thickness does not exceed 10 mm should be used, but if the slabs are mounted on the base of wooden logs, then more massive products should be used, the thickness of which will be determined by the pitch between the reinforced logs. The material for laying on the logs should have a thickness of 15-18 mm, if the distance between them does not exceed 0.5 meters. But if the step between the logs is higher than 60 cm, then the slabs should have a thickness in the range of 22-25 mm. In Fig. 1 you can see how a floor should be constructed using OSB boards.

The standard dimensions of products called OSB are 2440x1220 mm. The slabs are easy to cut; for this you should use a circular saw, but it is better to avoid using a jigsaw during the work process, since it does not allow you to get an even cut line, which is especially important for further laying linoleum.

Tools and materials

• glassine;
• circular saw;
• glue;
• dowels;
• self-tapping screws;
• level;
• pencil;
• nails.

Leveling a concrete floor using OSB

Leveling the OSB floor allows you to get an excellent base for laying different finishing coatings, among them: linoleum, ceramics, laminate, parquet. In addition to leveling, these products are able to provide sound insulation, which is made possible due to the multi-layer dense structure of the material. OSB boards insulate and waterproof the floor well. If there is a concrete screed as a subfloor, they are laid on the latter wooden blocks, acting as sexual lags, in addition, wooden joists help smooth out errors in the concrete base.

In order to obtain the proper rigidity of the floor and its resistance to deformation, it is preferable to cover OSB surface slabs laid in 2 layers.

Moreover, each slab should have a slight thickness - within 8-10 mm. In the second row, the OSB board should be laid on the floor with some offset so that the seams between the rows do not coincide. The layers of material should be secured using a special glue, which can be replaced with fasteners in the form of spiral or ring nails.

Cover concrete surface You can use OSB boards without preliminary preparation in the form of laying wooden logs. In order for such a technology to have the right to life, the concrete screed must first be checked for horizontalness, using a long rule. If it has no errors, then you can start using the OSB board immediately. In this case, you can level the floor using one layer of material, strengthening the products with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Leveling the surface using OSB boards should be done taking into account the arrangement of expansion joints; this is necessary because the products can deform during operation, absorbing moisture into the thickness of the wood elements, and then releasing it. Such gaps should be made between the plates, and their width should be approximately 3 mm.

If the floor is leveled using floating technology, then during installation it will be necessary to ensure a distance from the walls to the flooring, which is 10-15 mm. Floating floors when installing the material do not require rigid screeding of slabs and walls, as well as the base.

Leveling a wooden floor with OSB

In the premises of houses that were built on flood or columnar base, floors are usually laid on wooden logs made of multi-layer boards or timber. In this case, the floor can be leveled with OSB slabs, which are used not only as a subfloor, but also as a finished floor.

A wooden floor based on logs must be tested for strength before attaching products to it. The subfloor made of OSB on joists is arranged according to bottom side lag, while the surface that faces the soil must be treated with a protective coating, which can be, for example, bitumen mastic. A heat insulator is installed in the space that was formed by the logs and the rough base, the latter being protected from above with a protective material, for example, glassine. Then you can begin to install the base for the finished floor.

Figure 2. Alignment wooden floor using OSB.

OSB panels, which make up the base for the finished floor, are mounted in one or two layers, the latter option involves laying the material perpendicular to each other. The first layer should be mounted with a joint on the joists on the smaller side. The layers can be strengthened together using spiral nails, and to ensure greater strength of the OSB floor surface, the OSB boards are additionally secured with glue. You can connect the slabs and logs with self-tapping screws, strengthening them at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. In Fig. 2 you can see how the floor is leveled with OSB boards; these recommendations will help when carrying out the work yourself.

The slabs should also be installed on a wooden floor, providing so-called expansion gaps, which is also done in the case of concrete bases.

Once the floor leveling with OSB boards is completed, you should decide whether to use such a base as a laying surface finishing coating or leave OSB as the front finish of the floor, which is also often practiced. The strength and evenness of such a base allows you to immediately begin further finishing work on the floor, however, such a floor can be left unchanged. The plate just needs to be protected from mechanical wear, for which it is recommended to use varnish, which should be applied in several layers to the surface. Before painting, such a wooden floor must be cleaned of debris and dust by wet cleaning and then dried.

If it is planned to lay linoleum or carpet on the floor after leveling with slabs, then it will be necessary to ensure as smooth a transition as possible in the place where the joints will form, this applies to everyone roll materials. For this, it is preferable to use slabs that have the minimum permissible thickness. After the OSB floor has been leveled, the gaps formed will need to be treated using an elastic sealant.

If, after leveling the floor with OSB boards, it is planned to lay ceramic tiles, then it will be necessary to ensure complete immobility and perfect reliability of the base. To do this, it is permissible to use a more frequent arrangement of logs, on which the slabs should be strengthened as carefully as possible and with the largest number fasteners The best solution will be used when installing slabs that are equipped with a tongue-and-groove type fastening. When laying tiles, you should use a special adhesive that is designed for collaboration with wood and ceramic products.

Before leveling the floor using OSB boards, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology, otherwise the work will have to be redone, for example, due to previously unnoticed unevenness of the base. Thus, the surface of the joists can be leveled by planing, and the concrete floor can be leveled by laying wooden blocks. This is true for minor unevenness, since correction with concrete may not give the expected results.

The use of OSB boards guarantees quick and high-quality alignment surfaces in any room. To carry out the work you will not need any special skills or tools. If the slabs are laid on logs, then the step between the latter should be 56 cm, this is perfect for installing all modern species heat insulator. If you want to save money, then using OSB boards for leveling will be great solution, because not only do they themselves have an affordable price, but they can also be used without additional finishing.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

What to do if the room has an old wooden floor that is impractical to paint or varnish? If the boards are wobbly and? You can resort to a labor-intensive and expensive method - tearing off the old coating, making a new one, or laying fresh ones. But there is something else, more practical, faster and cheap solution– installation of OSB on a wooden floor.

This method has its own nuances that are taken into account during OSB laying. Looking ahead, it is worth saying that the basis of the technology is proper preparation grounds. Below is detailed guide, following which will allow you to achieve excellent results in terms of leveling the surface of the old wooden floor and subsequent installation decorative coatings: laminate, linoleum, etc.

Tools and materials for work

The list of necessary devices is minimal:

• nail crowbar;
• hammer;
• hammer drill, drill, drill bits;
• screwdriver;
• a large bubble or laser level (with a second tool it will be more convenient to identify irregularities).

Required materials:

• OSB board;
• fasteners – hardened self-tapping screws with a length of at least 45 mm;
• washers for screws (their presence is desirable, but not required).

Choosing this method of “reanimating” old wooden floors, you need to have an idea about the material used for these purposes in order to choose it correctly. The result of the alignment directly depends on this.

Characteristics of OSB boards

OSB is a construction analogue of chipboard. These slabs are more durable and are perfectly adapted for finishing. The material appeared on the market relatively recently. OSB is made from wood chips, which is laid in 3 layers. They stick together special compounds based on resins. In this case, the layer in the middle is laid perpendicular to the other 2. Due to this, the resistance of the material to loads is formed.

When marked, this parameter is indicated by a number. The lower the value, the lower the resistance to loads and destructive factors such as humidity. For example, index 2 means that the OSB board is not moisture-resistant and cannot withstand intense long-term loads. And the number 4 indicates that the product can be used as a ceiling that will not collapse even when exposed to moisture.

The material for laying on the floor is selected based on the mentioned designations in order to form a smooth rough surface. You should not skimp on the quality of the OSB board. This may result in the need to lay an additional layer, which is expensive and inconvenient. The best option– OSB 3 board.

The question often arises: “Do I need a substrate for OSB?” WITH practical point vision - no. The wood itself is great thermal insulation material, and if we take into account that it fits on wooden boards, then no substrate is needed. But sometimes it is still used to achieve the maximum possible soundproofing effect.

Preparing the base

A correctly completed preparatory stage is more than half the success of floor leveling work. First, a thorough examination of the wooden surface is carried out. This is done using a bubble or laser level. All protruding and loose parts are marked, this will make it easier to strengthen them.

The next step is reliable fixation boards Some experts recommend doing this using dowels, but a more reliable option would be to pull loose elements with self-tapping screws to the joists. The old coating must be secured as securely as possible. To do this, you can use several fasteners in one area. The ideal result is when the “walking” floor fragments are recessed or are level with the rest.

Some recommend cleaning old layer paint with a sander. You need to know that this is only necessary in areas where there are obvious swellings paint coating. Actually availability old paint not critical, you can lay slabs on it too. In this case, it is necessary to remove all large contaminants.

Attention! Main part preparatory process - fixing the old wooden covering. It is this stage that should be given special attention.

Preparing OSB for installation

Before fixing the slabs, they must first be laid on the floor in the room. In this case, 3 requirements must be met:

• There should be no straight cross-shaped seams, for which the slabs are laid staggered with an offset of 50%;

• The gap between the wall and the slabs must be at least 10 mm;
• The plates should not be adjacent to each other. The minimum gap between them is 3 mm.

Attention! The slots are needed to avoid the slabs “creeping” on top of each other and deformation of the decorative floor covering. This occurs due to the expansion of the material due to changes in humidity.

Laying process

After completing all preparatory work all that remains is to tighten the plates to the old one with self-tapping screws wooden covering and fill out construction foam gap between OSB and wall. After the foam has dried, it is trimmed flush with the flooring.

The slabs are fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter every 20–30 cm, but this distance can be reduced. Some experts recommend preparing the holes first, but using a screwdriver can quickly and efficiently tighten screws without pre-drilling.

Not so long ago, sheets of plywood were used to construct a dry screed. But they are not moisture-resistant material. Therefore, additional waterproofing had to be done. Today, consumers are presented with a moisture-resistant sheet material made from wood chips, which is an alternative to plywood sheets. It's called OSB.

In the manufacture of slabs, in addition to wood chips, waterproof resins are used. The material consists of three layers of wood chips. The second layer of chips is laid perpendicular to the first, and the third - perpendicular to the second. Thanks to this arrangement of layers, fasteners are securely held in the material. The resulting material is quite durable.

There are 3 types of material on the market: OSB-2, OSB-3 and OSB-4. The first material is not moisture resistant. It is used exclusively for interior work. At the same time, OSB-2 cannot be laid in rooms with high humidity.

A universal building material is class 3 board. It is used for both interior and exterior work. It is resistant to moisture and has a fairly large margin of safety.

If you need to level the floor in rooms with high humidity, then it is better to opt for class 4 material. They can even be used to build load-bearing structures.

If the room has a normal level of humidity, then it is better to opt for the universal material OSB-3. It does not deform under heavy furniture or equipment. If the subfloor does not have significant defects, then it is enough to use slabs whose thickness is 1 cm.

If there are potholes and bumps on the rough base, then it is better to lay a material 1.5 cm thick. When arranging the floor on joists, it is necessary to use material whose thickness is 2-2.5 cm. After laying the OSB, there is no need to level the rough base. Decorative flooring can be laid immediately.

Since wood chips are used to create oriented strand boards, the resulting material has low thermal conductivity. Accordingly, after laying the material there is no need for additional thermal insulation of the floor. It is also worth noting the fact that this building material absorbs noise.

Selection and installation of material for a concrete base

If necessary level concrete floor, then it is advisable to opt for a material whose thickness is 1-1.5 cm. Before you begin laying the slabs, you need to prepare concrete base. It is cleaned of all kinds of debris and dust. Then, the surface is treated with a primer. To increase adhesion, concrete contact is added to the primer. Subsequent work begins after the soil has dried.

The next step is pruning sheet material. Easiest way to trim circular saw or a jigsaw. If such a tool is not at hand, then alternative option is a sharp hacksaw. Then, the slabs need to be laid on the floor, using a rubber-based adhesive for fixation.

To distribute the glue evenly over the entire surface of the sheet material, use a notched trowel. Then, the sheet is applied to the floor and pressed for a few seconds.

Additionally, the slabs are fixed with dowels. In order for the fixation to be reliable, the dowels must be located from each other at a distance not exceeding 30 cm. If a high-quality adhesive was used when laying the slabs, then the dowels are driven only at the corners of the slabs.

Since during production it was used wood material, the slabs should not come close to the walls. During operation, they can expand and contract. It will be enough to place the plates at a distance of 1 cm from the walls. You should also make expansion joints between the plates themselves.

All that remains is to clean the surface from construction dirt and fill the seams polyurethane foam. After 4 hours, you need to remove excess foam and you can begin laying the decorative flooring.

Selection and installation of a slab for a plank base

Most important stage– preparation of the rough foundation. It is necessary to assess the condition of the boards and joists. If there are rotten or deformed elements, they must be replaced. Preferably everything wooden elements treat structures with special compounds that protect against moisture and fungus.

Then, armed building level, you need to examine the surface for the presence of bumps and depressions. If there are any, you will have to remove the boards and level them according to the level of the logs. Next, using a sander, you need to clean the boards from any remaining paint and varnish, and finally level the surface. After this, you can begin laying the sheet material.

Because laying OSB will be produced not on lags, but on the boards, you can stop your choice on slabs 1 cm thick. The material is laid in such a way that the seams are offset. When laying on boardwalk the presence of cross-shaped joints is unacceptable.

The material is fixed using dowels. To increase the strength of the floor, you can lay another layer of oriented strand boards. But do not forget about the expansion gaps between the slabs and the walls.

Selection and installation of slabs along logs

The presence of logs not only allows you to get perfect flat surface without the use of wet solutions, but also makes it possible to isolate the room. Insulation materials placed in the gaps between the joists. The logs are secured to the rough foundation using anchors.

On top of the log covered with oriented strand boards thickness 1.5 – 2.2 cm. When laying sheet material, you must ensure that the seams are located in the center of the joists. Otherwise, the slabs will deform over time and depressions will form on the floor.

Oriented strand boards are fixed to the logs using screws 4.5 cm long or more in increments of 1.5-3 cm. To prevent the boards from cracking, you need to start drilling holes for the screws at a distance of 1 cm from the edge.

Processing of oriented strand boards

If laminate or ceramic tiles are chosen as a decorative floor covering, then oriented strand boards do not need to be treated with anything. If there are small irregularities, they are leveled out due to adhesive composition or substrate. Before laying linoleum, it is advisable to walk over the surface with a sander. Then, all seams must be sealed with sealant.

If oriented strand boards are coated with varnish or paint, then there is no need to lay decorative flooring at all. Paintwork products are applied in several layers.

Using oriented strand boards, you can level the base yourself without spending a lot of time and money. In this case, it is not at all necessary to lay decorative flooring.

Very convenient and multifunctional material for different construction work– oriented strand boards. Since the production technology of these slabs is not complicated, for interior finishing work the master can choose a specific option from four types OSB boards or consider special types of these boards.

What are the sheets of these products made of? Everything is simple - wood chips are used (flat fragments are used), shavings: these materials are glued together and the result is actually an excellent finishing material. Three or four layers of chips or shavings – these are the indicators that can be called optimal. Installing OSB on walls is more preferable than using the same chipboard.

However, oriented strand boards are a kind of modification of wood-fiber material, some of its modern analogue. If finances allow, it is better to choose for facing works after all, OSB (plywood or chipboard are increasingly being abandoned today).

Scope of OSB, classification of boards

Before considering the classification of slabs and deciding which is the best OSB for finishing walls, it is important to pay attention to the characteristics of such a material.

Types of OSB boards

Here everything is as follows:

• OSB boards of the first class - they are usually chosen for rooms where there is a low level of humidity;
• Type two - the material can be safely chosen for dry rooms, it is even used as a structural element during construction work;
• Type 3 OSB – these boards are used in rooms where there is a high level of humidity;
• The fourth type of such products is used for cladding structures that can cope even with significant mechanical loads. Moreover, we are talking about conditions where there is a high level of humidity.

Scope of application

One thing can be said about the scope of application - OSB installation the task is truly urgent, since such slabs are used in many construction aspects.

It’s just that this material has such a manufacturing technology, due to which all internal defects are simply eliminated (at the same time, Chipboard sheets they appear very often - voids, uneven fillings). Due to all this, OSB is a more preferable option - it does not deform and does not shrink.

And now in detail - where exactly can this material be used??

1. Often for walls OSB sheathing is very profitable solution. Due to this approach, the house receives reliable protection from dampness, and also acquires additional insulation. What's best about this: there is no need for additional finishing work after OSB installation;
2. In the construction of frame-panel houses, OSB boards are usually used, which have high level moisture resistance;
3. Since the material has such valuable quality, it makes a decent reusable formwork;
4. It is used as a base when making external cladding walls, as well as internal works– if wooden finishing is carried out country houses, cottages (made of timber, rounded logs);
5. OSB boards are your faithful assistant if you are making sheathing or rafters for the roof. This material can work even under serious load - it will definitely withstand the weight of not only the roof itself, but also all associated loads (wind, snow) - even if natural tiles(material that weighs little);
6. If you need to level the floors in your house or lay them from scratch, here again you can pay attention to the installation of OSB. Just such a slab - ideal option to create a very strong, even base. It’s better not to find it under plank floorboards, carpets or other coverings;
7. Pay special attention to the process when you need to adjust the joints of the slabs to a plane. If necessary, they must be equalized - without this there is no way.

An interesting point - not every manufacturer can use OSB boards as underlying layers - in case of organization floor coverings. And the panels are laid so that the smooth side is facing up.

What else does a master need to know?? Following:

• Apply additional protective coating it is not necessary in the form of paint or varnish - the material initially has excellent protection in the form of a special impregnation;
• Processing slabs is not that difficult - about the same as ordinary wood. Screws and nails adhere perfectly to the surface. OSB boards are not afraid of rotting, fungal influences, decorative qualities such material is at its best;
• OSB panels today are often used in furniture production– after all, this is an excellent alternative to natural solid wood (but in terms of cost, it is significantly more profitable);
• The material does not weigh that much - therefore it is perfect for finishing, construction, painting work and more.

How to finish a house faster

It is quite logical that any owner wants to move into his home faster - especially if the construction is carried out independently. Private cottages are located separately from neighboring buildings - so in this design you don’t have to worry about neighbors.

Here a completely reasonable question may arise: maybe not to do rough sheathing - but to immediately attach the OSB finishing materials directly to the frame racks?

Is this approach to the matter allowed, or is it excluded?

If you pay attention to the instructions compiled by professionals, it will immediately become clear: you cannot do this. There will also be reasons for this conclusion. Simply, it is important to insulate the house - only in this situation will it be comfortable (especially since winters in the Russian Federation are cold - almost throughout the entire territory).

Why are frame bevels required at all - lower and upper? Everything is simple here: they form spatial rigidity - together with the cladding. They can also be called mandatory elements if we consider the design of any frame structure.

A frame that does not have slopes will retain its mobility even with cladding - as in the case when there are any. However, if there is no cladding, you can imagine what the consequences may be.

External rough wall cladding

A lot is used today for rough cladding. different materials. There is definitely a choice here - everyone will agree with this. Pay attention to at least these options:

• Board;
• OSB boards.

Any of these surfaces needs finishing: this could be facing with plaster - with a mesh or a layer of polystyrene foam. There is an opinion that even the boarding can be left as a finishing touch - but in this case the wood will need to be processed additionally. Hydro-wind protection of the walls is also installed under the boards.

You must take into account the following: it is not recommended to finish the frame with boards - without rough, preliminary covering with OSB boards. Otherwise, there is a risk that the boards will come loose in the fall or spring. In addition, this is important for the spatial rigidity of the frame.

You will get fewer joints thanks to the area OSB sheets– which cannot be said about working with other materials. OSB finishing is usually made with a material whose thickness is 11-13 mm.

Let's take a closer look:

• The OSB boards are fastened to the racks so that there is a joint in the middle. And there should be a small gap between the plates - three to five millimeters is enough;
• The sheet completely covers the lower trim;
• Closely related to the number of storeys of the building top harness. It will be completely hidden - and the edge of the OSB slab will be aligned with the edge of the trim if the structure has only one floor;
• When a building consists of two floors, the sheet is positioned as follows: it must fit onto the racks of both floors at once. But somewhere in the middle of the sheet the top trim overlaps. This condition cannot be called mandatory, but if it is met, the rigidity of the structure increases noticeably, which benefits the structure;
• Sheathing with OSB boards when fastening to a window opening is carried out in two-story houses, should be produced in a single sheet - this is exactly what the professionals advise. Then all the joints can be moved to adjacent racks outside the racks of the opening. They simply cut through the slab window opening– there is nothing complicated in such work. Here https://krepezhmaster.ru you can purchase fasteners for absolutely any purpose;
• When horizontal or vertical jumpers are made in the frame, a very convenient joining of the slabs is obtained. In the event that these jumpers have the same cross-section as the racks - and this often happens;
• Spiral nails are selected for fastening. Self-tapping screws are also suitable - 0.5 or 0.45 cm long. You should also not refuse combined fasteners (both nails and self-tapping screws) - such a solution is considered to be of very high quality.

Remember that basic rules When performing fastening work, it is imperative to comply.

Namely:

1. It is customary to fix the finishing of OSB slabs in intermediate areas every 300 mm;
2. After 150 mm, fix the places where the slabs are joined;
3. After 100 mm it is necessary to sew the outer edge.

To prevent cracks in the material due to too zealous fastening, a distance of 1 cm is maintained from the edge of the slab to the place of fixation (a little less is possible).

• A gap of 4-5 millimeters is left between the plates so that they do not warp. The fasteners are driven 4-5 cm into the rack;
• The part of the OSB board that is vulnerable (one might say this is the "Achilles' heel" finishing material) – ends. To ensure the protection of these areas, gaps are provided, which are called expansion gaps (between the crown beam and the upper edge, also between the foundation wall and the lower edge). Here the gap will be 10 mm. And between those slabs where there is no tongue-groove, 3 mm is quite enough;
• To seal these expansion gaps, apply a sealant to acrylic base. It is important that it carefully fills all the cavities - and that this work is done evenly;
• Wind protection, waterproofing - all these tasks will be performed by a superdiffusion membrane, which also has the property of vapor permeability (this indicator is 750 g/m² or more).

Craftsmen do not recommend using polyethylene, various films, glassine. It’s just that these materials have a low level of vapor permeability; all excess moisture must be reliably ventilated.

Also, you should know:

1. The superdiffusion membrane is installed depending on the rough lining with materials, what it is fine finishing. For example, the membrane is often attached closely to the insulation - to the frame studs;
2. They make a sheathing (here they use wooden slats, the cross-section of which is 2 by 5 or 3 by 5 cm. Thanks to this design, it will be achieved required clearance. Then you can finish the surface with OSB boards, SML, DSP or sheathe it with boards;
3. From the inside of the room, you can use film to create a vapor barrier for the walls. The material is installed in such a way that it fits tightly enough to the insulation. A construction stapler is used for fastening. The joints are overlapped - 150-200 mm; the joints must be taped.

For such work, you can choose the simplest adhesive tape - there is no need to use building material. Vapor barrier adhesive tape will also work.

• To perform a vapor barrier, you can use foil polyethylene, which will not thicken wall thermal insulation(main). Foam material is also often used for this task - this practice is common in our time.

Finishing the structure inside

Which is better: OSB sheathing or plasterboard cladding? Many are clearly inclined to favor option number one - when it comes to interior finishing work in the house. It is quite difficult to keep the frame posts in a completely level state - when work is being done, the same applies to drywall.

It’s just that the sheets of this material are softer when compared with OSB boards. They will easily repeat all the unevenness - so then you will have to work hard to get a completely flat surface - more layers will need to be applied to level it.

OSB board is an order of magnitude stiffer in structure than plasterboard sheets, so all flaws can be smoothed out to a certain extent. Afterwards they begin to carry out work related to finishing.

Watch a video about how OSB boards are used for interior decoration. This material will definitely be useful if you do not have much construction experience.

OSB-3 boards and roofing work

Roofing work is a very popular way to use materials such as OSB boards. By the way, to cover the roof with OSB-3 slabs, a material thickness of 0.18 cm is sufficient.

In order:

• Products can have both a locking edge and a straight edge. The first option is more preferable;
• Between load-bearing beams the distance should not be more than 609 mm - this applies to both the organization of sloping and flat roofs;
• Are slabs capable of expanding? great value. For each linear meter It is customary to leave a gap: 2 mm is quite enough (believe me, this is enough);
• When slabs with smooth edges are laid, the gap is made a little larger - 3 mm. Leave it around the perimeter of each slab - this is the only way to achieve optimal results;
• Nails are used to attach OSB to the roof. Attached to supporting supports. There should be a distance between them: 10 cm or even more;
• The finishing of OSB boards is attached with nails - they should have a length that exceeds the thickness of the board by two to two and a half times (or even more) - this is quite normal.

If the interior decoration is done using OSB panels, the following can be noted: a slab made of polished panels will look better if it is very important in your space appearance. It is better not to use such slabs for finishing. ceramic tiles or wallpaper fabrics- this is what the manufacturers themselves recommend. And it’s best to listen to their opinion!